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mashed_penguin posted:Ryobi impact gun did the trick and got that pinion nut off. Finally finished the seal change and diff fluid change. I have two ryobi impact wrenches and they're fantastic. A must have for junkyarding.
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Sep 4, 2016 14:48
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| # ? May 14, 2024 17:18 |
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Got a new bumper for the MJ from JCR Offroad (jesus christ RRRRRROCKS!!!) old and frumpy  slim and sassy   Somehow only snapped one bolt getting the old one off too. Question: I had to snip a couple wires going to the trailer hitch to get it off, what's the correct way to cap these wires off? I'd just remove them from where they splice into the factory harness but I don't wanna gently caress anything up  vvvvv cheers thanks! TACTICAL SANDALS fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Sep 4, 2016 |
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Sep 4, 2016 15:02
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Glue lined heatshrink tubing of the appropriate size, and a heat gun. Pinch the ends shut when the glue is still hot.
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Sep 4, 2016 16:16
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Sandbagger SA posted:I have two ryobi impact wrenches and they're fantastic. A must have for junkyarding. Seems hard to beat value wise for $150 cdn as a bare tool. This job gave me the excuse to buy one and jobs that give excuses to buy tools are the best jobs 
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Sep 4, 2016 18:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I don't know what crack the people who get it done without pulling the parking brake apart are smoking, because it's not happening. Also, thanks to the small scale of a drum in hat brake, gently caress those goddamn motherfucker springs.
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Sep 5, 2016 09:35
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I mentioned here in passing that I was thinking about selling my MJ/project, and a couple people pm'ed me about it. Just wanted to say I've got a for sale post in the marketplace thread, and dropped the price.
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Sep 6, 2016 14:31
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What's the closest tire size to 33x10.50x15 that is available, cheap(er), and more streetable than offroad capable? This is for my XJ running 4.10s, a ~4.5" lift, and 33x10.50x15 BFG KM2s for offroad, and I've recently got a second set of wheels, so I'm looking for tires to put on my existing wheels to use as street tires - hopefully, be more streetable than KM2s, and save wear on them as well. I'd be ok with a little smaller diameter, don't really want to go bigger. Wider is fine - part of the motivation to get new wheels was finding a set of 7" rims, and the existing ones are, 8-9" wide. (I'll measure before I buy anything, obviously, but they currently have tires on them.) Looks like a literal translation from 33x10.50x15 is 267/86-15, which is obviously not a thing. I tried guessing around and didn't find much near that, but I may have just missed something obvious. (270/85-15, nothing, 275/85-15, nothing, etc.) The two options I've found are:
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Sep 8, 2016 04:35
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265/85-15 is the closest realistic size but I don't think there's anything actually made like that. 255/75-17 is OE size for JKs. That's about a 32". There are LT and P versions. Godholio fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 06:57
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I run 285/75R16s, but you would need 16" wheels for that obviously. 15s are really kinda a dying breed outside of offroad tires, and most fullsize pickups/vans running rubber that big from the factory run 16s, 16.5s, or 17s simply due to brake size.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:36
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Tire Rack has a page that lists out truck tire diameters and all of the actual sizes that correspond to them. And yeah, you would probably want to get some 16" or 17" wheels if you really want something street oriented at that height. 275/60R15 is what I run on the back of my C10  http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=53
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Sep 8, 2016 14:55
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kastein posted:I run 285/75R16s, but you would need 16" wheels for that obviously. They're a very dying breed. I've got 15s on my other car and it was a pain in the dick to find tires in 2009 without going through Diamondback or another $$$$ company. I'm gonna be hosed when my Continentals wear down/age out, because they're no longer available. Edit: Took the JK to a shop about 4-5 miles from home to get the AC discharged so I can start digging in. Fucker overheated on the way back, I pulled over and sat for about 10 minutes 1.9 miles from home. The radiator leak is DEFINITELY worse than it was a few days ago. Godholio fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 15:46
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I'm not sure if this is the right spot for it, but I've been having some engine issues and before I bought a bunch of stuff to fix what I thought was the problem I figured i'd ask you guys first. I have a Y1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ 5-speed manual with god knows how many miles on it. The previous owner was in the military and drove a lot of miles on it with a broken odometer that I fixed when I bought it so it currently erroneously reads at 28,000 but I would wager is in the 200,000 range. Lately though I've been having some issues with acceleration and my top speed. Most of the time I drive to work I never have to get above 45, however the other day I got onto the highway and couldn't get above 50mph. Downshifting or further pressing on the accelator gave me no increase in speed. It didn't even sound like the engine was trying to speed up when I pushed further down, it was like there was some sort of limiter on it. My initial thought was the intake because he had an aftermarket K&N Filter installed on, but I don't think it would have that much of an impact on my top speed. I was reading that it could be my Cat, but before I go out and buy another one I wanted to touch base with some people and get their opinion on what it could be and what additional trouble shooting I could try. Thanks in advance!
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Sep 9, 2016 02:59
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If it's the 4-cylinder and there was a strong headwind, that could actually be normal.
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Sep 9, 2016 03:07
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Krakkles posted:What's the closest tire size to 33x10.50x15 that is available, cheap(er), and more streetable than offroad capable? Wangler duratracs and BFG AT TAKO2s are both pretty drat streetable, but will be more expensive than strictly LT tires.
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Sep 9, 2016 03:15
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Godholio posted:If it's the 4-cylinder and there was a strong headwind, that could actually be normal. I mean don't get me wrong it's not gonna win any speed competitions anytime soon and it's acceleration has never been good. But i've been driving this guy for the past 4 years and this is a notable change.
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Sep 9, 2016 03:34
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Check the crankshaft position sensor. The dude who bought my 4cyl yj had that go out on him, and the symptoms sound similar.
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Sep 9, 2016 04:00
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A clogged cat should sound a bit off, and it might run hot as well.
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Sep 9, 2016 05:13
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Fog light question - My XJ has factory fog lights, but the switch went tits up. I should be able to get a cheap toggle switch and connect wires 2 and 3 (depicted below) to it, and the ground if the switch supports it, right?  That, or bypass a switch altogether and have the fogs come on with the headlights.
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Sep 9, 2016 13:50
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That diagram makes my head hurt because it shows a second 87 where 87a should be  But yes. Assuming that both fog lights are already wired to terminal 87, you just need to complete the circuit between pins 2 and 3. The ground at the switch is only needed to light the factory switch.
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Sep 9, 2016 14:45
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Everything's wired and worked, just the switch is shot. I'll probably just bypass the switch and get a USB adapter thing in the vacant hole. Something like this: 
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Sep 9, 2016 15:35
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Wait, where's that thing from?
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Sep 9, 2016 18:37
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Whoa. Looks like it fits standard Carling toggle switch openings, I want one. I want ten. SirDrinksAlot - sounds like a plugged or damaged cat (try tapping it with the handle of your hammer and see if it rattles) but I wouldn't just replace it without further diagnosis. I don't think it's the CPS, normally those either fail completely (disabling the engine), fail just enough to cause noticeable misfiring, or fail when hot, disabling the engine.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:29
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Godholio posted:Wait, where's that thing from? Pick your poison: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+rocker
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Sep 9, 2016 20:26
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Something's jacked up with the power going to the switch for the fog lamps. The hot wire is only pushing 0.4v when the headlights are on - and nothing when they're off. Probably going to just rewire the drat things and just bypass the factory wiring and call it good.
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Sep 9, 2016 22:39
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I'm also trying to troubleshoot the serpentine belt squealing like crazy. It only seems to do it when the A/C compressor kicks in, and even then it'll be intermittent and only reliably happen when I give it gas.. It sounds like it's slipping on the tensioner pulley on the driver's side of the engine. I put a different a/c compressor in cause the clutch bearing in the original one was shot. It is a junkyard compressor (yes I know it's not the best idea, it's just what I can afford right now) and the a/c system seems to work fine. The belt is about a month old. Would it make sense to replace the tensioner pulley at this point since that sounds like the culprit? Everything else seems to be okay and the sound is definitely coming from that general area of the engine. Edit: Also I did get the cheapest belt they had at the parts store. I kept the old one - would it be worth my while to put the old one back on and see what happens? What inspired the change was a constant chirp from the old belt. DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 22:40
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I would check all the pulleys to make sure nothing is in them or one of the ribs isn't bent or miss shaped. And is your yensioner slack or over right? Because when you give it gas which puts the engine under load makes me think the tensioner is failing and helping the belt stretch or over tighten and make the noise. Also if any pulleys are smooth I would recommend sanding off any shmutz that may be on them.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:29
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It's a bolt based belt tensioner on an XJ right? Check the tension with a Krikit II tension checker (the first one is for V-belts, second is for multiV/serpentine) and make sure it's within spec. Spec is 140-160 pounds if it's been run for at least 15 minutes, 180-200 pounds if it's brand new and hasn't ever been run (<15 minutes.) Those tensioners are one of my least favorite things. If you don't want to buy the tension gauge, just tighten the belt a smidge repeatedly until it doesn't squeal anymore. You may run it a bit tight this way and burn up support bearings in your various accessories and idlers faster this way, so I only do it this way if I don't have a tension gauge handy. Typically the belt will squeal when the ECU decides to charge the battery or when the AC kicks in, I've found.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:47
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SouthsideSaint posted:I would check all the pulleys to make sure nothing is in them or one of the ribs isn't bent or miss shaped. And is your yensioner slack or over right? Because when you give it gas which puts the engine under load makes me think the tensioner is failing and helping the belt stretch or over tighten and make the noise. Also if any pulleys are smooth I would recommend sanding off any shmutz that may be on them. I know the a/c pulley is good - I got a good look at that when I pulled it from the junkyard. The new lovely belt looks like it got glazed over pretty good but the old one (a Gates) looks okay. Would it make sense to clean/sand the idler pulley to get whatever garbage is on there off, put the old belt on, and see how it goes? I'm pretty sure it's the original tensioner pulley so it needs to be replaced at some point. Figure I'd clean it up to get by. When I get a little extra money I'll get a good belt and actually replace that pulley and maybe the harmonic balancer while I'm at it.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:48
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kastein posted:It's a bolt based belt tensioner on an XJ right? Check the tension with a Krikit II tension checker (the first one is for V-belts, second is for multiV/serpentine) and make sure it's within spec. Spec is 140-160 pounds if it's been run for at least 15 minutes, 180-200 pounds if it's brand new and hasn't ever been run (<15 minutes.) Those tensioners are one of my least favorite things. Yep. I'll get a krikit too. Pretty sure overtightening is how I hosed up the a/c bearing. edit: This?: https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000CRDLZM DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 23:50
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Well i think I got the squeal to go away. Took a sanding block and a fine wire wheel on the dremel and cleaned off whatever was on both the tension pulley and the water pump pulley and put the old Gates belt back on. It squealed a little for a few seconds when I gave it gas once and that was it. It's no where near as tight as I had the Advance Auto special belt either, so I should be good for a while at least. Also I messed around with the fogs again and got them working. The wiring diagram i posted earlier was apparently wrong or I read it wrong. It didnt help that I blew a fuse and didn't realize it until after dark when the instrument panel didn't work. Let there be light! 
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Sep 10, 2016 03:44
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AAAAAAAAAND the squeal is still there, and I just figured out I was misdiagnosing the cause. The squeal has nothing to do with the a/c, but when the alternator starts drawing more power. If I turned the fan speed from high to low, it stopped squealing. If I then turned on the headlights, squeal returns. Guess I'm ordering a tension gauge. I can't find one locally.
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Sep 10, 2016 15:04
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DAT RAM posted:AAAAAAAAAND the squeal is still there, and I just figured out I was misdiagnosing the cause. Some...more like very few auto parts stores will rent you one. It is sad they aren't a more common tool anymore. My last one I bought for 5$ at a garage sale. It was awesome then I let an apprentice borrow it and it left with the car......never to be seen again. In jeep news my WJ is such an electrical nightmare. I put in four proper butt connected wires in my door harness..just to find four more twist caps....
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Sep 10, 2016 15:34
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Has anyone ever found a version of this brake/clutch pad that lasts longer than a year? I keep rubbing through this poo poo.
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Sep 12, 2016 18:24
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I finally did my first overnight trip with the TJ. I went up Molybdendite Ridge which is near Lillooet in BC. Its an old prospecting road that you can drive up to 2500m. Difficulty wise there aren't that many obstacles other than exposure. If you are terrible enough to drive off the edge you won't stop rolling for a long long time. Turnoff from the main road  Alpine meadow on the way up. Goon with jeep.jpg  At the top  Panorama  On the way home  I played around a bit with hyperlapse for some of the gopro footage I took near the top. I'd never played with it before and its a cool app. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VBiACkVOYI I want to go back with better weather. It was windy and cold as gently caress at the top and we didn't stick around up there to explore that much. We camped down in the valley as it was starting to snow. Would not have wanted to drive down that road at the top with fresh snow covering it.
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Sep 12, 2016 19:10
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THANKS A LOT I-10  
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Sep 12, 2016 22:41
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out-of-control arm
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Sep 12, 2016 22:46
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Oooh, did it make a noise?
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Sep 13, 2016 00:13
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That is amazing. What was the immediate effect?
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Sep 13, 2016 00:33
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Super cheap 3-link, no prob Bob
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Sep 13, 2016 00:56
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| # ? May 14, 2024 17:18 |
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brains posted:THANKS A LOT I-10 Rear trackbar isn't that important lol. Is that an aftermarket mount or the stock mount?
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Sep 13, 2016 01:01
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