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MythosDragon posted:So I know this is probably embarrassingly stupid, but I'm pretty new to forums in general, much less using them to write giant updates about playing a game while linking like a hundred images. I understand how BBcode and smilies work, but are there any quality of life tricks I should know, like a way to write :Character Name: to have a sprite for transcribing text? First off, use Notepad++ or something else to write updates and then copy/paste them into the post field so you don't lose everything when something bad happens (even though the forums will auto-save partial posts now, it's kinda risky). As for processes, here's an updated version of something I'd paste a lot when this question came up. Needs a bit cleaning up, but overall it should be a good starting process. quote:My Full Process:
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Nov 22, 2016 22:11
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I have a similar workflow I developed by hand that uses a bunch of Perl scripts and works on OSX, with the caveat that you need to have a webserver running on your local computer because I couldn't be bothered to figure out how to do file uploads except via URL. Generate screenshots -> name screenshots 001, 002, etc. -> upload screenshots -> download screenshot URLs from lpix -> insert URLs into update text. It's pretty hokey because I never really intended it to be used by anyone else, but if anyone's interested in trying to hack on it, let me know and I'll see if I can put something together.
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Nov 22, 2016 22:22
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Wow, thats alot more work than I thought it was. I honestly thought there was some kind of dedicated LP program I wasnt aware of where you had slots for portraits and could add images easily and then just copy paste it here. Really makes you more thankful for all the work you guys have put in. Thanks for the advice Mega64, I'm gonna give it a try.
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Nov 22, 2016 23:20
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The first person to put together a comprehensive SSLP program that handles all that will be a hero, and will get basically no business because all of us have established workflows and we don't want to change or break anything. 
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Nov 22, 2016 23:39
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MythosDragon posted:Wow, thats alot more work than I thought it was. I honestly thought there was some kind of dedicated LP program I wasnt aware of where you had slots for portraits and could add images easily and then just copy paste it here. Really makes you more thankful for all the work you guys have put in. Thanks for the advice Mega64, I'm gonna give it a try. I did make a tool to quickly copy portraits at some point: https://github.com/AdmiralCurtiss/FaceCopy
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Nov 23, 2016 00:21
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RightloadUrlAutoReplace made my SSLPs infinitely less painful to produce, and FaceCopy looks like it'd be pretty helpful too. Thanks for your contributions to LP, Curtiss. 
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Nov 23, 2016 00:50
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Artix posted:The first person to put together a comprehensive SSLP program that handles all that will be a hero, and will get basically no business because all of us have established workflows and we don't want to change or break anything. Ｉｔ’ｌｌ ｊｕｓｔ ｂｅ ａｎ ａｖｉｓｙｎｔｈ ｓｃｒｉｐｔ．
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Nov 23, 2016 01:38
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It may have taken me nearly all day, and basically hiring my friend to do all the heavy lifting for me, but I got all of these programs working and ready. Thanks Mega64 for the guidelines and thanks Admiral H. Curtiss for the wonderful programs that will probably take 50% of the tediousness out of this.
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Nov 23, 2016 03:18
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Listen to Mega64 and Admiral H. Curtiss. I've all of my SSLPs by manually taking the screenshots and manually copy/pasting portraits in threads. I have wasted so much of my time.
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Nov 24, 2016 05:06
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Blind Sally posted:Listen to Mega64 and Admiral H. Curtiss. I've all of my SSLPs by manually taking the screenshots and manually copy/pasting portraits in threads.  Do you write your updates directly into the new-post page, so that if you accidentally close the browser window, you lose all your work?
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Nov 24, 2016 05:40
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Yes. And it happened. I occasionally copy/pasted what I had into a Notepad file and saved it, but really I should've been asking how other people were doing it because I made way too much work for myself.
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Nov 24, 2016 05:51
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I havnt had much of a chance to use the programs yet due to not needing many images in the OP. But yeah I can see how these can be useful, and I've already developed a tendency to spam the test poster to make sure everything is working right so I'm basically going between that notepad++ to write. Though right now I feel that if I take too many images and only need a quarter of them for the final update, it seems easier to do it manually. Unfortunately my source for the portraits in the game had a 2nd tier Character's corrupted(Major NPC you see alot) and well theres over 300 portraits total between the 40 characters, so I've chosen to uh just use the default one usually, but Facecopy still seems indispensable.
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Nov 24, 2016 10:48
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FaceCopy's great if you're going to use multiple portraits for one character or have a bunch of nameless NPCs or whatever, but if you're doing one portrait per character I find it easier to keep all the portrait URLs in the same text files you'll put your image links and use tags like [character1] and [character2] so RightloadURLAutoReplace can take care of it all for me. But then what's easier for me is not easier for everyone, so if FaceCopy works better for you definitely use it.
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Nov 24, 2016 12:55
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Now that you mention it yeah, that probably does work better. One of the characters in the game has 27 portraits alone, and the only difference between most of them is the level of eye scrunching and blush.
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Nov 24, 2016 13:09
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Anybody using a Yeti Blue would mind posting their settings? I'm playing with the Gain and Windows Input Levels but it still picks up way too much noise and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.
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Nov 26, 2016 08:04
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Furism posted:Anybody using a Yeti Blue would mind posting their settings? I'm playing with the Gain and Windows Input Levels but it still picks up way too much noise and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. The Yeti is just super sensitive, there's not much you can do about it. I have the gain all the way down and on cardioid and I still can't record while I have the washing machine or dishwasher or oven range fan on. The best you can really do is a wind screen, pop filter, and a mic stand so it doesn't pick up bumps as easily. After that, audacity/audition noise removal is your friend.
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Nov 26, 2016 08:15
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Furism posted:Anybody using a Yeti Blue would mind posting their settings? I'm playing with the Gain and Windows Input Levels but it still picks up way too much noise and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. Environmental noise or electric noise? The only counter to environmental noise is to remove the noise sources, or close the distance between your mouth and the mic. Electrical noise can be caused by interference, or it can be the natural level present in the equipment due to the components used and their quality. Sometimes interference-caused noise can be countered by using a better cable, connecting audio device to a different USB port, checking that mains-powered devices are properly grounded, avoiding or using different USB hubs. Noise in audio signals input or output from USB devices can be caused by poor quality power over the USB, causing the device to perform poorly. If you're down to the natural base noise (slight hissing, usually) being significant in your recordings, it means your signal is too weak, and you need to close the distance between mic and mouth, or even just speak louder. Apart from that, set input level in software as high as possible that isn't amplifying the base signal. Real audio software will have a level setting that goes from negative infinite dB up to typically +10 or +20 dB, set that at zero. Then adjust gain on the hardware to get an acceptable level. If this gives electrical noise, up the gain on hardware and lower in software, until the noise is sufficiently low.
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Nov 26, 2016 08:22
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Furism posted:Anybody using a Yeti Blue would mind posting their settings? I'm playing with the Gain and Windows Input Levels but it still picks up way too much noise and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. I have it set to cardoid and gain is about 40%. Got myself a shock mount, mic stand and pop filter, though. The Yeti was practically useless without them, because any little vibration would get turned into hecka noise. As other people mention, though. If you're picking up environmental noise then there's not much you can do other than try to get rid of it.
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Nov 26, 2016 10:01
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The short and technical version is that you can never really remove all noise, what you can do is improve the signal/noise ratio, by making sure the signal you want is louder than the noise you don't want. Then you will hear proportionately less of the noise.
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Nov 26, 2016 10:40
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If all you're dealing with is electrical or minor background static or even fan noise then running it through a de-noising pass in your audio editor of choice should be able to help with even the most egregious examples of consistent noise, ideally you'd want a dedicated commentary track for that though, I'm not sure how a gameplay session's audio would be affected by a generic de-noise pass or even one that takes a sample to work from.
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Nov 26, 2016 11:16
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So I'm trying to encode a video with ffmpeg, the problem is that my source video is 4:3, which means its resolution is 1400x1050. Naturally this means Youtube won't enable 1080p for it, so naturally I want to upscale it a few pixels so that it will. This is the script I'm using:code: what am I doing wrong exactly?
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Nov 28, 2016 02:08
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Why don't you just add a Spline36Resize() into the avs script? Pixel Ratios will be ignored by youtube anyway, it treats whatever you upload as 1:1
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Nov 28, 2016 03:36
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Wouldn't letterboxing be preferable to stretching the image, anyway?
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Nov 28, 2016 03:57
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Especially considering how close it is to 1080: yes, it would.
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Nov 28, 2016 04:28
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Up-scaling isn't the same thing as stretching, for one. For two no tiny rear end letterboxes aren't preferable since they're incredibly distracting and not at all necessary.Mico posted:Why don't you just add a Spline36Resize() into the avs script? Pixel Ratios will be ignored by youtube anyway, it treats whatever you upload as 1:1 e: turns out I am a complete moron and the letterboxing was an issue originating in my editing program due to slightly incorrect cropping so I made myself crazy trying to fix this issue for zero reason. I'm so loving cool. Lady Naga fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 06:57
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Furism posted:Anybody using a Yeti Blue would mind posting their settings? I'm playing with the Gain and Windows Input Levels but it still picks up way too much noise and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. What you're doing wrong is assuming that because you're using a very good microphone you won't have to clean it up in Audacity or somesuch anyway. Blue Yetis aren't magic, they just give you superb raw material to work with.
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Nov 28, 2016 15:15
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Lady Naga posted:Up-scaling isn't the same thing as stretching, for one. For two no tiny rear end letterboxes aren't preferable since they're incredibly distracting and not at all necessary. What exactly do you think up-scaling is if it isn't stretching? If your video is 1400x1050 that means it's just 40x30 pixels off the 1440x1080 4:3 that YouTube does support. Which means you'd need a letterbox of 20 pixels on the left and right and 15 on the top and bottom. (That 15 is actually a problem, since it's odd: better would be to split it 14/16 or something along those lines.) If you instead opt to stretch the video to be 1440x1080 you're going to add a subtle blur. "Up-scaling" algorithms are all stretch algorithms that are designed to reduce that blur in some way, but they'll never be as sharp as simply not stretching the image. In any case the default ffmpeg scaling algorithm is probably a bilinear scale (the documents don't bother saying what it is, but it's the first algorithm listed) which is one of the most basic scaling algorithms and essentially does nothing to try and preserve sharpness.
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Nov 28, 2016 16:13
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Spy_Guy posted:I have it set to cardoid and gain is about 40%. Got myself a shock mount, mic stand and pop filter, though. The Yeti was practically useless without them, because any little vibration would get turned into hecka noise. What shock mount and stand did you end up getting? I've got mine on a stage stage that goes over my desk and monitors and pointed at me but off to the side. It's a little unwieldy at the moment.
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Nov 28, 2016 17:21
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Xenoveritas posted:What exactly do you think up-scaling is if it isn't stretching? ffmpeg has multiple scaling algorithms, including bicubic, lanczos, spline, bilinear... https://ffmpeg.org/ffmpeg-scaler.html#sws_005fflags Lady Naga fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 18:36
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YamiNoSenshi posted:What shock mount and stand did you end up getting? I've got mine on a stage stage that goes over my desk and monitors and pointed at me but off to the side. It's a little unwieldy at the moment. I got this arm RODE PSA1 and a Blue Radius II shock mount. Very happy with the arm but I'm iffy on the shock mount. I'm sure there's better varieties out there (but they didn't seem to ship to  when I looked). It makes a WORLD of difference compared to being on a stand, though. At low gain settings I get barely any unwanted noise.
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Nov 28, 2016 18:45
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Lady Naga posted:ffmpeg has multiple scaling algorithms, including bicubic, lanczos, spline, bilinear... Yes, I know - the issue is that they don't say which one gets picked if you don't say which one you want it to use. What's the default algorithm used? Who knows, they don't say. I expect it's "fast_bilinear" because that's a reasonable default and what you probably want when scaling down, which appears to be the intended use of the video scaler. (And it makes sense if you're doing something like YouTube does where you have multiple resolutions for multiple devices.) The problem is bilinear is terrible when scaling up, and for small scales like the one in question (increasing the resolution by about 3% in both directions) you're basically guaranteed to just make the image quality look worse, and there's no good reason to not just letterbox it. No one is going to notice a border that small in any case, and it will preserve (as best as possible) image quality. Besides, it's smaller than the "unsafe area" outside the "action safe area" anyway.
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Nov 28, 2016 19:06
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What's everybody's trick to not record the mouse clicks? Short of playing with a heavy sheet/blanket over your mouse. My Yeti just picks every little noise up, which is expected, but I'd like to make clicks a little more discreet.
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Nov 29, 2016 23:50
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Furism posted:What's everybody's trick to not record the mouse clicks? Short of playing with a heavy sheet/blanket over your mouse. My Yeti just picks every little noise up, which is expected, but I'd like to make clicks a little more discreet. Best answer: Post-commentary. Next best: Don't talk when you're clicking, edit the clicks out in post. Failing that, I use a commercial click repair program that can help eliminate the click noises without hurting the rest of the audio too much.
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Nov 30, 2016 00:26
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Furism posted:What's everybody's trick to not record the mouse clicks? Short of playing with a heavy sheet/blanket over your mouse. My Yeti just picks every little noise up, which is expected, but I'd like to make clicks a little more discreet. You can use a noisegate on your recorder of choice to a certain extent, but it will stick pick up the sound if you are talking and clicking. It's probably easier in most cases to go with Nidoking's advice
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Nov 30, 2016 01:01
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Furism posted:What's everybody's trick to not record the mouse clicks? Short of playing with a heavy sheet/blanket over your mouse. My Yeti just picks every little noise up, which is expected, but I'd like to make clicks a little more discreet. Get a quieter mouse, move the microphone, or use something like audacity to try to remove the unwanted clicks: http://manual.audacityteam.org/man/click_removal.html
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Nov 30, 2016 08:30
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Thanks guys, that's what I thought. I'm not very good at post-recording commentary so I'll try to edit out the clicks.Nidoking posted:Failing that, I use a commercial click repair program that can help eliminate the click noises without hurting the rest of the audio too much. What program do you use? I already bought Reaper so if you know of a good VST plugin to do that that'd be great.
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Nov 30, 2016 12:24
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Furism posted:Thanks guys, that's what I thought. I'm not very good at post-recording commentary so I'll try to edit out the clicks. I was concerned about this at first, but eventually I found that it doesn't really matter all that much if you have the mic closer to your face than the mouse and get a good signal-to-noise ratio. Also, the game audio tends to drown any minor clicks and the like out, I find.
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Nov 30, 2016 17:55
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Besides, sometimes it can actually be helpful to the viewer to hear the mouse clicks, it can make it more obvious what's going on.
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Nov 30, 2016 18:00
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I've poked around and didn't see any answers to this... Is there a way to bulk move images uploaded to LPix from one LPix directory to another (on the same account, of course)? Or do I get to move them one by one?
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Nov 30, 2016 19:39
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POOL IS CLOSED posted:I've poked around and didn't see any answers to this... Is there a way to bulk move images uploaded to LPix from one LPix directory to another (on the same account, of course)? Or do I get to move them one by one? There's a massmove PHP script (I think it's lpix.org/massmove.php, but I don't have my scripts handy), where you give it the directory ID to move to and a list of image IDs to move. I don't know if there's a user-friendly way to access that script (instead of hand-inserting image IDs into the URL).
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Nov 30, 2016 19:55
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