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Bad Munki posted:The wired-in ones also have a battery backup. well that makes sense i'm sure it has nothing to do with the inspector's buddy doing a roaring business in hardwired monitored smoke alarms
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May 19, 2017 03:25
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In any event, aren't you free to address or not address whatever the heck you want as a result of your inspection? Like if the inspector says "No outlets in the house are grounded," you can either use that to adjust the offer, or walk away, or say "I don't care" The wired alarms also have the effect that if one goes off, they can trigger all the others, so when your basement catches fire at 4AM, your bedroom can let you know in case you're a really stubborn sleeper like my roommate in college who could sleep right through an air ride alarm right next to his head as I stand there yelling "DUDE SHUT OFF YOUR loving ALARM GO AWAY HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE ARE YOU ACTUALLY DEAD" Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 03:33
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kid sinister posted:edit: I'd run at least 10/3 cable for now with a tandem breaker at your main panel. That way you can use your cable as 2 separate circuits with a shared neutral, yet have the option of running a welder out there in the future.
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May 19, 2017 04:37
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A welder is just an easy example. There are a hundred reasons to over-spec a wire when you're going to the trouble of burying it while running service to an outbuilding, most of them coming down to "do it once."
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May 19, 2017 04:40
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Bad Munki posted:In any event, aren't you free to address or not address whatever the heck you want as a result of your inspection? Like if the inspector says "No outlets in the house are grounded," you can either use that to adjust the offer, or walk away, or say "I don't care" Some areas use a house sale as time to come in and do code compliance inspections before they will allow the sale to proceed. It is the worst goddamn thing. Fortunately on my house, all I had to do was replace an outlet in my garage with a GFCI before I could sell.
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May 19, 2017 05:22
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Slugworth posted:Some areas use a house sale as time to come in and do code compliance inspections before they will allow the sale to proceed. It is the worst goddamn thing. Fortunately on my house, all I had to do was replace an outlet in my garage with a GFCI before I could sell. thank gently caress because my electrical was redone in 2006 (quite well, according to both the inspector and looking at things, other than missing one GFCI) but there is a 0% chance there was a permit and a couple things are safe but not to code
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May 19, 2017 08:55
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SoundMonkey posted:thank gently caress because my electrical was redone in 2006 (quite well, according to both the inspector and looking at things, other than missing one GFCI) but there is a 0% chance there was a permit and a couple things are safe but not to code My mortgage company required some things to be fixed as part of the appraisal, which seemed kind of BS to me but whatever.
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May 19, 2017 15:15
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We have a gas range (both the stove and oven are gas) and out of the blue it tripped the breaker on the circuit it is on and continues to do so any time we plug it back in. I plugged it into an outlet on a different circuit and it tripped that breaker too, so it is definitely an issue with the range and not its outlet. IANAE so I have no clue what could be causing this. I checked the wire and plug and they do not appear damaged. Is there anything else a moron can be guided to check? To have a guy come look at it will be $125 for coming through the door and $50 for every 30 minutes, lol. A new oven is ~$700 and memorial day sales are coming up so I am leaning towards skipping the guy and just buying a new one.... Funny story to give you an idea of how dumb we are. When this happened, my wife ran out to the store to buy a cheap hotplate so we'd at least be able to use all the ingredients in our fridge before they go bad. I thought this was a very good idea. It wasn't until the next day that it dawned on me that we could still use the stove top by lighting the burners with a match. ha. Also also, if I do buy a new range, I've heard that having the oven part be electric is preferable to it being gas. But I seem to recall electric ovens having larger plugs (we're in the US). Am I correct about that? Right now there is just a standard outlet behind the oven, so to switch to an electric oven would require a proper outlet be installed?
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May 19, 2017 15:51
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Associate Christ
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Also, I never appreciated how much I rely on the oven's clock. Holy gently caress.
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May 19, 2017 15:53
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other people posted:We have a gas range (both the stove and oven are gas) and out of the blue it tripped the breaker on the circuit it is on and continues to do so any time we plug it back in. I plugged it into an outlet on a different circuit and it tripped that breaker too, so it is definitely an issue with the range and not its outlet. Dual energy ranges are all the rage. You will need to at a minimum have the outlet swapped out, probably the wires too depending on what size was installed, and a new breaker put in your panel to provide the 240v outlet required. As for what is wrong: is the breaker tripper or gfci protection? You can probably remove the cover to get at the electronics and see if anything is obviously fried out, loose, or otherwise not right. I assume $125 gets you at least the first unit of troubleshooting? If not consider calling a second person. If you have the cover off when he arrives it should save some time.
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May 19, 2017 15:57
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H110Hawk posted:Dual energy ranges are all the rage. You will need to at a minimum have the outlet swapped out, probably the wires too depending on what size was installed, and a new breaker put in your panel to provide the 240v outlet required. Hmm. I don't know if we want an electric oven that badly.... The actual breaker is tripping; if there is a GFCI outlet involved here I am not aware of it. Once the oven is unplugged and the breaker flipped back into the ON position, a lamp plugged into the same outlet works fine. I like the idea of having it all open and ready for them to get to when they arrive; thank you for that. The panel and breaker box were replaced when we moved in about two years ago; the old panel used the glass screw-in fuses lol. However, we opted not to have the entire house rewired at the same time so it is all a bit of a mess. The oven outlet is on the same circuit as a room on the other side of the house and an unrelated hallway. The rest of the kitchen is apparently on a completely different circuit. Most of the rooms only have one outlet and only the bathrooms, kitchen (partially), and my office (with 1) have grounded outlets tee hee. It is all very charming I assure you.
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May 19, 2017 16:12
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other people posted:Hmm. I don't know if we want an electric oven that badly.... I would stick to gas, it's way cheaper to purchase, install, and operate. (Unless you have net metered solar.) Lookup the repair manual online before you start undoing screws willy nilly, there is likely a panel that comes off to expose most of what the maintenance person needs. Put the screws in a bowl or free-with-purchase harbor freight magnetic dish.
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May 19, 2017 16:47
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H110Hawk posted:I would stick to gas, it's way cheaper to purchase, install, and operate. (Unless you have net metered solar.) Anyhow, whether a gas/electric oven is a good idea for you depends on how hard the installation will be, which varies by every individual case. I'd say to get a quote from the electrician you have coming, but I'd hate them to charge you another $50 for a quote, JFC.
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May 19, 2017 18:37
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other people posted:We have a gas range (both the stove and oven are gas) and out of the blue it tripped the breaker on the circuit it is on and continues to do so any time we plug it back in. I plugged it into an outlet on a different circuit and it tripped that breaker too, so it is definitely an issue with the range and not its outlet. Just to be clear, it trips even when not trying to ignite, right? We can probably rule out the ignitors or overcurrent if so. The circuit board could be fried, but I doubt that would trip the circuit. Checking the receptacle and cord was a good first step; the only other easy thing I'd recommend is checking the wiring box on the range that the cord goes in to. Check for signs of arcing; I've found (fried) mice in them before. You can test for continuity between hot and ground either on the cord or where the cord terminates, but it'll probably just tell you what we can already guess: a hard short from hot to ground somewhere. On a side note, I'm a big fan of gas ranges as a home cook and could never go back to electric.
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May 19, 2017 18:45
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angryrobots posted:I mean that really hangs on a lot of factors, like whether we're talking natural gas or propane, and their KWh rate. And the solar comment....yeah that's a can of worms that doesn't belong here but I generally disagree. You are correct, I vastly over simplified my statement. It will at a minimum be more expensive to install the dual power range due to the need to get more volts to the wall, and dual energy ranges are I believe more expensive across the board to purchase.
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May 19, 2017 19:32
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edit: never mind there is absolutely no chance stove manufacturers would be allowed to do something that weird
SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 20:41 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 20:36
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H110Hawk posted:and dual energy ranges are I believe more expensive across the board to purchase. Is it worth it? Some people like electric ovens as there's better humidity control (water vapor is a byproduct of combustion) but most people probably wouldn't care. I bought a dual-fuel range because it was the same price as gas-only and, since I was replacing an electric range I already had a 240 V range receptacle behind it. It turns out though that there was also a 120 V receptacle behind it too, and the range receptacle had to be relocated a few inches requiring a new cable run because the old one didn't have any slack.
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May 19, 2017 21:03
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Oven guy get a cheap multimeter and see if any of the pins in the plug have continuity to each other. Tripping the breaker instantly when you plug it in sounds like there's a direct short circuit somewhere.
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May 19, 2017 21:53
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shame on an IGA posted:Oven guy get a cheap multimeter and see if any of the pins in the plug have continuity to each other. Tripping the breaker instantly when you plug it in sounds like there's a direct short circuit somewhere. http://imgur.com/a/kVy5u Am I doing this right???
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May 19, 2017 22:26
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other people posted:http://imgur.com/a/kVy5u Yep. 300ohms isn't crazy low, but it's larger than I'd expect for an unplugged modern gas oven. Take the back panel off and see what's up.
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May 19, 2017 22:58
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other people posted:http://imgur.com/a/kVy5u Check the smaller, left (as pictured) prong to the round ground. You'd probably have hot to neutral continuity through the oven light bulb.
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May 19, 2017 23:00
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Doing the same test between the ground and either other prong just reads zero. I'll take the back off tomorrow... Thank you guys.
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May 19, 2017 23:10
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I'm stumped (though not much of an appliance person). I really expected a short between hot and ground. It's possible that it burned completely through wherever it was arcing though. Hard to make the judgement call, but if there's no obvious arcing evidence underneath the back panel I wouldn't want to sink 200 in labor and more in parts on it. I don't mean to insult, but as a longshot, your meter does say "0" and not "Ol" for "overload" when checking to ground, right? You own a meter and thought to check the cord and receptacle, so I doubt this is an issue.
Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 23:44 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 23:41
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0 Ohms to ground would be a direct short. OL is out of limit on an auto ranging meter, which means its an open circuit. 300 Ohms between neutral and hot seems pretty reasonable.
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May 19, 2017 23:44
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Yeah, I'm braindead, it's a phase to ground short. And 300 phase to neutral would be close to what a 60w bulb would be. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 23:53 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 23:46
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I "own" that thing because it was left at our house when we moved in. I googled how to use it. In other words, I have no idea what any of you are saying. It does indeed read 0 L when I touch ground and either of the other prongs, but that seems to be the display's default state in that setting so? But this is the explanation for why the breaker trips when it is plugged in? I can't wait to see what the inside looks like when I open it tomorrow!
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May 20, 2017 00:14
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other people posted:I "own" that thing because it was left at our house when we moved in. I googled how to use it. I wish my house came with a $200 Fluke meter. I can't even keep track of my $35 Tenma. 
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May 20, 2017 00:19
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other people posted:http://imgur.com/a/kVy5u He said cheap multimeter. 
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May 20, 2017 00:27
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other people posted:I "own" that thing because it was left at our house when we moved in. I googled how to use it. Drape Culture has it right. OL means no measurable continuity, so it's not a short, which makes it confusing as to why it's tripping. The short has possibly burned through to the point hot and ground are no longer in contact, but that should mean that plugging it in no longer trips the circuit. So have fun checking out the back for black or melted spots and possibly shopping for a new range.
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May 20, 2017 00:33
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other people posted:I "own" that thing because it was left at our house when we moved in. I googled how to use it. Fluke is the gold standard, congrats on winning the PO left behind lottery.
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May 20, 2017 00:57
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I am usually pretty handy, but I'm having a problem that I can't figure out. My brother-in-law was visiting in an RV, and he had a daisy chain of plugs and adapters that he was sure would allow the RV to use our house power instead of running the generator. Well, it didn't work and now the two receptacles in my garage do not work. We checked everything: GFCIs, the breaker, and even replaced the receptacles because I had some spares. We opened the breaker box and checked it with a multimeter and that breaker looks to be powered,but the receptacles are not. Is there anything we may have overlooked or should re-check?
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May 20, 2017 21:21
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How much does your brother-in-law look like Randy Quaid? For science, of course.
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May 20, 2017 21:37
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WashinMyGoat posted:I am usually pretty handy, but I'm having a problem that I can't figure out. My brother-in-law was visiting in an RV, and he had a daisy chain of plugs and adapters that he was sure would allow the RV to use our house power instead of running the generator. Well, it didn't work and now the two receptacles in my garage do not work. What else is on that circuit? Do those things still work? Could be damage to the electrical wiring inside the walls somewhere, I suppose. In any case, I'd leave the breaker off, to reduce the risk of fire.
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May 20, 2017 22:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What else is on that circuit? Do those things still work? The two outlets appear to be the only things on the circuit, which is fortunate because I really only use them to charge my drill battery and occasionally run a trickle charger on a car.
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May 20, 2017 22:59
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If the RV load damaged the house wiring before the breaker popped, there was something wrong before the RV was even plugged in. Safe the circuit, check with a tester, and pull the affected receptacles out. Is there any scorching or discoloration? Melted plastic? Is the RV plug still there? If it is, look and see if that has any damage as well. Are you sure there's no daughter panel or another breaker for those receptacles?
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May 20, 2017 23:13
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Garage receptacles are supposed to be gfci protected, so I bet you have a load wired gfci somewhere that is tripped (but doesn't look like it), or is bad. Figure out which gfci is on the breaker that you believe powers the garage, and see if it's the problem.
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May 21, 2017 01:05
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WashinMyGoat posted:I am usually pretty handy, but I'm having a problem that I can't figure out. My brother-in-law was visiting in an RV, and he had a daisy chain of plugs and adapters that he was sure would allow the RV to use our house power instead of running the generator. Well, it didn't work and now the two receptacles in my garage do not work. Pull the outlets, turn on the breaker and test the wires directly. Do you have power at the first box? Check both hot to ground and hot to neutral. Also, how did you test the breaker? Make sure the wire screw is tight.
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May 21, 2017 01:42
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angryrobots posted:Garage receptacles are supposed to be gfci protected, so I bet you have a load wired gfci somewhere that is tripped (but doesn't look like it), or is bad. They are? Um... crap. Apparently I very poorly fixed my parents' constantly tripping freezer many years ago. Better go fix that, thankfully the house hasn't burned down yet. I was kind of wondering why the gently caress a garage plug was routed through a bathroom GFI in the upstairs. Mimesweeper fucked around with this message at 05:30 on May 21, 2017 |
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May 21, 2017 05:16
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Mimesweeper posted:They are? Older appliances with big motors tended to have that problem with GFCIs.
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May 21, 2017 07:27
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I've encountered multiple (mostly recent-construction) homes with GFCI-protected garage circuits that have gently caress-all for proper insulation, and trip constantly, even with really innocuous loads on them. My old townhouse garage circuit would trip (it had a dedicated breaker, a GFCI receptacle, and an outdoor receptacle in a weatherproof box by the front door, down-circuit of that,) with just the garage door opener plugged in and operating, because the electrician probably scraped the poo poo out of the cabling when he was pulling it, or some other problem. I was never able to figure it out, and just lived with it. The 5mA current leakage standard is a little aggressive for a garage circuit, IMO, particularly if there's also an outdoor receptacle on the circuit.
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May 21, 2017 13:50
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