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remote control carnivore posted:What up, introverted climbing buddy! I definitely know that I come off as dickish and snobby. I have been trying to make an effort to being more outgoing. I am very outgoing with my pals, but less so at the gym. Kind of a necessity, though - my trad partner is getting married, then they are going to start trying to have a kid soon thereafter.
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Jul 22, 2019 07:49
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japtor posted:Give it a few years, they’ll be back in the gym with the kid in tow. And then the kid will out climb all y’all cause they’re drat monkeys. I'm actually really looking forward to being Auntie and spoiling the little fucker rotten, to be honest! Climbing with little kids is super fun (if they're into it).
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Jul 22, 2019 15:20
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Does anyone here give a care/pay attention to the World Cups? Was cool as hell to see noted fat-man/meteorologist Martin Stranik advance so far in the lead cup this past weekend. He's my dark-horse pick to win the bouldering portion of the Olympics. In other bold Olympic predictions, Adam Ondra will win the lead and overall for the men; while Janja Garnbret will win the overall, as well as the lead and bouldering portion, for the women.
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Jul 23, 2019 22:59
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I was watching the bouldering stuff, but haven't watched much of the lead so far. For some reason, when it comes to indoor climbing only bouldering interests me. Then I look at outdoor bouldering and think, "I'd rather learn to lead/top rope" for some reason. Ondra and Janja are both crazy and I've just been watching random videos of him online lately; Silence was so cool to watch.
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Jul 24, 2019 01:46
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rest his guts posted:Was cool as hell to see noted fat-man/meteorologist Martin Stranik advance so far in the lead cup this past weekend. As a fat man, I think we have different definitions of fat.
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Jul 24, 2019 01:49
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Excuse me, I use fat interchangeably with ‘over 5’9” ‘ or ‘over 160.’ It seems rare to see a muscular lad do well in lead (young Sharma, Hojer and current-iteration Ondra notwithstanding), as evidenced by all the skinny dorks who also made the final. e: I respect all body-shapes, as an awkward-bodied man myself. rest his guts fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jul 24, 2019 |
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Jul 24, 2019 02:20
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rest his guts posted:Excuse me, I use fat interchangeably with ‘over 5’9” ‘ or ‘over 160.’ It seems rare to see a muscular lad do well in lead (young Sharma, Hojer and current-iteration Ondra notwithstanding), as evidenced by all the skinny dorks who also made the final. As a 6'3", 200 pound man I can vouch that climbing is one of the only activities in which I get called "bulky".
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Jul 24, 2019 14:50
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Welp had a bunch of words typed up when the SA app randomly decided to start crashing repeatedly. Anyway, yeah, I’ve been watching cups religiously because I can throw it on in the background at work. Janja’s a beast and definitely an overall favorite. Japan and Slovenia both have a stable of strong competitors in each category, it’s hard to know who else will make an appearance from week to week. Lucka Rakovec and Mia Krampl have good appearances in both disciplines, they’re young and coming off injuries so I wouldn’t be surprised to see them continue to rise. Tomoa Narasaki and Jongwon Chon were eating up boulder comps and have had respectable lead appearances, but I feel like I haven’t seen them much lately. Fanny Gibert was a constant 3rd in boulder cups, but she’s struggled on lead. I feel like France can often push a competitor through to finals, but they struggle to stand out in that arena. Akiyo Noguchi and Jessie Pilz have also had pretty strong showings in both disciplines, as have Jan Hojer and Jakob Schubert. Ai Mori also looking pretty strong for her age and has done well on lead and in bouldering.
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Jul 24, 2019 15:34
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Is climbing just not nearly as big in the US as it is in the rest of the world? I was surprised to not see any Americans in what I have watched. Or is it just that they probably can't afford to fly all over the world to attend the competitions? Unrelated, I've gotten quite comfortable approaching randoms at the gym to shoot the poo poo with, ask advice etc. etc. but what's the etiquette for bumping into strangers outdoors? As I mentioned a few pages ago, at the beginning of the month I tried to go on my first outdoor excursion but it was a bit of a failure. I'm going to go again this Saturday by myself and not forget anything this time  If I run into other people, is it cool to just be like, "Hey dudes I've basically never been here before. Mind if I hang out and watch?" For some reason outdoors strikes me as more "private" than just going to the gym. Like if I were out hiking and saw dudes camping I wouldn't be all, "Mind if I share you campfire?"
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Jul 24, 2019 16:03
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Sab669 posted:Is climbing just not nearly as big in the US as it is in the rest of the world? I was surprised to not see any Americans in what I have watched. Or is it just that they probably can't afford to fly all over the world to attend the competitions? If you're just watching the finals or semi-finals, you probably haven't seen many US climbers this year. As a whole, they haven't been doing great.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:08
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Sab669 posted:Is climbing just not nearly as big in the US as it is in the rest of the world? I was surprised to not see any Americans in what I have watched. Or is it just that they probably can't afford to fly all over the world to attend the competitions? From my experience, nobody really cares outside if you just want to hang out and watch them climb, assuming that you're not being weird or creepy or anything. If you want to actually join them, then yeah people outside are more private in general. Some outdoor bouldering can still be pretty social, but it's not a given. Outdoor roped climbing is almost always a private affair, although in crowded areas it's not unusual to let neighboring climbers climb routes you have a rope and / or quickdraws up on. In either case, wait for an invitation from whoever it is, but don't expect one.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:19
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Sab669 posted:Is climbing just not nearly as big in the US as it is in the rest of the world? I was surprised to not see any Americans in what I have watched. Or is it just that they probably can't afford to fly all over the world to attend the competitions? It's because if you're a gifted athlete who can compete at a world level in a sport, you probably didn't end up a climber in the US. It's pretty popular here for adults, and relatively popular for youth teams, but still tiny compared to baseball, basketball, football, even soccer and gymnastics. I also kind of feel like Akiyo Noguchi single handedly made climbing popular in Japan. It's also true that America does basically nothing to support athletes as a country, it's almost all private funding, but a lot of other countries do support their athletes and at least pay for them to get to competitions or have a national coach etc. Sab669 posted:Unrelated, I've gotten quite comfortable approaching randoms at the gym to shoot the poo poo with, ask advice etc. etc. but what's the etiquette for bumping into strangers outdoors? As I mentioned a few pages ago, at the beginning of the month I tried to go on my first outdoor excursion but it was a bit of a failure. I'm going to go again this Saturday by myself and not forget anything this time If you're going to boulder it's OK-ish, but I definitely wouldn't trust a stranger to belay me outside and would almost assuredly think it's weird if some guy wandered up to me at a crag looking for a belay. You can't find people at your gym who go outside? I live in Dallas and the closest rock is hours away and there is still constant discussion of people planning trips outside at the gym.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:21
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Oh, yea I should've explicitly said it's a boulder destination. I'm planning on going with a gym buddy next month [who has never been], weather permitting, but I'd like to actually learn where the gently caress I'm going before dragging someone along. I've been trying to find people who are familiar, but kind of getting a cold shoulder. My "ideal scenario" would be to catch some people in the parking lot and just be like, "Hey can I just walk around with you dudes?" The "official trail map" for the region makes it seem like the bouldering section is very small: https://www.niagaraparks.com/media/2017/07/Niagara-Glen-Trail-Map-2017.pdf Just the red trail there. But then if I look at this site: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/canada/niagara-glen The whole place is broken up into 7 "regions" (Bizzaro World, Central, Old Country, Wonderland, Land of Oz, Romper Room, and Waterworld) all over the place, not just on that singular trail from the previous PDF. MP also makes note of these different "regions" (actually has 9 regions listed, not 7) https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106358852/niagara-glen I also found this PDF (dated 2010): http://topout.org/static/pdf/NiagaraGlen.pdf Page 5 maps out the different regions and subsequent pages describe all the boulder problems in each region. I had the PDF with me when I went at the beginning of the month, but I was having a difficult time "matching up" what I was seeing to what's in the PDF. So really I'd just like to have someone who can definitively point out a few landmarks so I know loosely where I am.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:39
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armorer posted:From my experience, nobody really cares outside if you just want to hang out and watch them climb, assuming that you're not being weird or creepy or anything. This seems pretty spot on, but I would like to point out that even just hanging out with people and watching them climb could help you make some friends that you could climb with later. They probably won't feel comfortable letting a stranger belay them outdoors, but if you live in the same area they might feel comfortable with letting the person they hung out with for a few hours the other day climb with them in the gym. Getting into climbing outdoors and roped climbing has been quite a process for me (because I didn't have any friends already doing it in my area), and making friends has been the most important part of it. Edit - I just saw the post above. Since it's bouldering, I would just go for it and ask people if you can hang and climb with them. That's what I did when I went bouldering for the first time and it was great. It feels super weird, but since they never have to put their safety in your hands it's much easier to just get absorbed into their group.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:48
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There is a kind of unspoken assumption in the climbing community that if someone doesn't have a climbing partner it's because they're either unsafe or insufferable. Obviously that's not always the case, but I think that is what leads people to be more open in the gym than outdoors. In a gym your interaction is timeboxed and there are a lot of other eyes to catch if something unsafe is happening. Whereas on an outdoor trip you're typically out for at least a full day, and you are largely alone with your group. So take extra care to be safe and fun, and say up front that you're new to climbing, and you can hopefully get past that barrier. Old climbers are universally helpful with new climbers in my experience, so long as you aren't interfering with their ability to climb and enjoy the day they had planned. (ie: don't expect them to be a free guide service or something.)
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Jul 24, 2019 17:02
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Bouldering will be fine. Bring your pad and offer it to the pile. I don't know of any bouldering trip where we didn't end up with other groups and shared problems, pads, beta, etc. Ask about specific problems if you can't find them.
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Jul 24, 2019 17:18
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No one's picked Chaehyun Seo as an Olympic favorite yet? Between her and Jongwan Chon, Korea stands a good chance for at least one medal, maybe not as strong a team as Slovenia or Japan but a close third. She's beat Janja twice in lead and is only 15.
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Jul 24, 2019 17:37
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Engineer Lenk posted:No one's picked Chaehyun Seo as an Olympic favorite yet? Between her and Jongwan Chon, Korea stands a good chance for at least one medal, maybe not as strong a team as Slovenia or Japan but a close third. Yeah, she is crushing it. I've always thought Janja would be the obvious winner but I'm not sure anymore. Need to keep an eye on Chaehyun Seo and see if she keeps up the consistency.
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Jul 24, 2019 17:57
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Niyqor posted:Yeah, she is crushing it. I've always thought Janja would be the obvious winner but I'm not sure anymore. Need to keep an eye on Chaehyun Seo and see if she keeps up the consistency. I think Janja still crushes the olympics. Worst case she gets first in bouldering, second in lead, and high enough in speed to win. The transfer from bouldering to speed is so much better than from lead to speed. Glad there's someone to give Janja some competition though.
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Jul 24, 2019 18:01
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spwrozek posted:Bouldering will be fine. Bring your pad and offer it to the pile. I don't know of any bouldering trip where we didn't end up with other groups and shared problems, pads, beta, etc. Ask about specific problems if you can't find them. Seconding this. In the long run it'll behoove you to begin ingratiating yourself to climbers around your level or (much) better, as I am in the process of doing with Electoral Surgery - who is very sexy and much better than me. armorer posted:if someone doesn't have a climbing partner it's because they're insufferable. Hey that's me! If this is you, find you a wife whose also into climbing. In my gym there are some pretty strong cliques (not a bad thing, they've all just been climbing together forever) and it can be pretty hard to 'break in' to groups like that. My solution was to just make conversation with the quiet types on the periphery who I felt I had something to learn from. Hauki posted:Welp had a bunch of words typed up when the SA app randomly decided to start crashing repeatedly. Yeah I agree with almost all of that. It doesn't seem like anyone on team Japan [men] has a guaranteed spot which is pretty shocking to me - they have a surfeit of world class boulderers. No idea whats up with Jongwon Chon. At the moment, I think Adam Ondra and Schubert will definitely be on the podium. Not sure about anyone else. In Team US news, I if anyone secures an Olympic invite it'll likely be Drew Ruana and Ashima. They seem to be doing the best overall. rest his guts fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jul 24, 2019 |
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Jul 24, 2019 18:07
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Engineer Lenk posted:No one's picked Chaehyun Seo as an Olympic favorite yet? Between her and Jongwan Chon, Korea stands a good chance for at least one medal, maybe not as strong a team as Slovenia or Japan but a close third. Chaehyun and Natsuki Tanii are both incredible on lead especially given their age, but I don’t think they’ve had many appearances bouldering? Also speaking of Korea, where’s Kim Ja-In this year? She made a pretty decent showing last season. edit: France also has a pretty strong team overall between Anouck Jaubert, Fanny Gibert, Julia Chanourdie, Nina Arthaud, Luce Doaudy has a lot of potential given her age and performance so far. Bassa & Mikel Mawem, Romain Desgranges. With some exceptions, they all seem to be successfully training into secondary disciplines as well. edit edit: Ashima has been doing well lately, she’s probably one of the stronger overall for USA? Hauki fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jul 24, 2019 |
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Jul 24, 2019 18:25
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spwrozek posted:Bouldering will be fine. Bring your pad and offer it to the pile. I don't know of any bouldering trip where we didn't end up with other groups and shared problems, pads, beta, etc. Ask about specific problems if you can't find them. Good idea on asking about specific problems rather than just a general, "Where am I? What is the cutoff from Central to Wonderland?" or other more vague poo poo like that. Thanks goonses.
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Jul 24, 2019 19:12
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Hauki posted:edit edit: Ashima has been doing well lately, she’s probably one of the stronger overall for USA? Ashima has a sporting chance to podium in boulder or lead, but her transition from youth to senior hasn't been as dominant as Janja. I also feel like Margo Hayes has a higher ceiling than she's been performing thus far - translating the outdoor success into IFSC performance. The American weaknesses show up a little differently on the women's side than the men's. Alex Johnson, who is 30 and semi-retired from international comps has been one of the strongest in the American competitions lately. At least the men's side seems to have a new generation routinely beating Daniel Woods.
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Jul 24, 2019 19:59
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Matt Fultz does really well in bouldering comps generally and he's an old man. The biggest problem with the American team is that they don't train together and there's no vested, centralized agency spearheading the training efforts. Both teams are stacked with absolute studs outside, and I think their successes would transfer to comps more if they had more assistance. Of course, they're all super young, as well. I think Margo Hayes and Nathaniel Coleman might be the oldest at 22. I think there's possibly an attitudinal thing going on, too. Dave Graham, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio are the biggest (veteran) names in American climbing and they've all opted to focus on the outdoors.
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Jul 24, 2019 20:52
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rest his guts posted:Excuse me, I use fat interchangeably with ‘over 5’9” ‘ or ‘over 160.’ It seems rare to see a muscular lad do well in lead (young Sharma, Hojer and current-iteration Ondra notwithstanding), as evidenced by all the skinny dorks who also made the final. But as I found out last week, at least I make a sturdy base for acro yoga apparently  Competition chat: my friend's two boys climb...I'm not sure how old they are but they're small and smaller (like 4' tall?), and can reach national level comps. Last I saw was the littler one doing the youth speed wall (looks like more holds?) just under 9 seconds at a national and getting like 13th/50. M. Night Skymall posted:It's also true that America does basically nothing to support athletes as a country, it's almost all private funding, but a lot of other countries do support their athletes and at least pay for them to get to competitions or have a national coach etc. Plus compared to other common youth sports, I guess climbing is kinda dependent on having stuff around to climb (besides just climbing whatever random structures), vs other sports being available at school or local parks, or playable to an extent with just some equipment.
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Jul 24, 2019 23:26
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Does anyone have recommendations for guided, family-friendly top-rope (if that exists) near Gardiner/Bozeman, MT?
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Jul 25, 2019 01:42
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rest his guts posted:Alex Puccio are the biggest (veteran) names in American climbing and they've all opted to focus on the outdoors. She only attends World Cups when her mom can pay for travel; if that gives you any indication of how poor sponsorship for comp climbing is in the US.
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Jul 25, 2019 02:05
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rest his guts posted:Matt Fultz does really well in bouldering comps generally and he's an old man. The biggest problem with the American team is that they don't train together and there's no vested, centralized agency spearheading the training efforts. Both teams are stacked with absolute studs outside, and I think their successes would transfer to comps more if they had more assistance. Of course, they're all super young, as well. I think Margo Hayes and Nathaniel Coleman might be the oldest at 22. I think a large amount of it is geographic too. Japan itself has a glut of bouldering gyms, and the density of cities + lack of cars makes travelling to mountainous areas more difficult. America is built around roads and cars, so we have infrastructure that makes getting places easy. Not to say there aren't cultural aspects, I prefer getting out side nowadays to climbing inside. The opposite was true years ago, before I found people I could climb outside with regularly
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Jul 25, 2019 02:23
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rest his guts posted:In Team US news, I if anyone secures an Olympic invite it'll likely be Drew Ruana and Ashima. They seem to be doing the best overall. On the men's side, I would have to go with Sean Bailey over anyone at this point. I think he's the only American that I have seen in a world cup final this year. Nathaniel Coleman might have made one in bouldering but I haven't even seen him in even a lead semi yet.
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Jul 25, 2019 02:49
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Caf posted:On the men's side, I would have to go with Sean Bailey over anyone at this point. I think he's the only American that I have seen in a world cup final this year. Nathaniel Coleman might have made one in bouldering but I haven't even seen him in even a lead semi yet. I was a pretty regular climber at the old VW gym in Magnolia around 2008-2011, and saw a lot of the youth team there. Sean was always fun to watch climb when he was a kid - always good at seemingly everything even when he was considerably smaller. From that cohort, Drew Ruana is also doing fairly well recently - made it to semis in Briancon.
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Jul 25, 2019 04:36
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The Briancon lead finals are a good watch
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Jul 25, 2019 05:33
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Tears In A Vial posted:I went to Bouldering Stockholm a few weeks ago. it's a tiny sweaty room, but I had a really good time, the staff were super friendly, gave me free shoe hire because they had some lessons going, were really nice people. My partner climbs at Klattercentret. Is that where you go? I used to have a pass at the Klättercentret facilities but their gyms but Solna and Telefonplan are just too crowded there days during the evenings so I got a Bruce pass. Think its 500 sek (~€50) / month. I am much more enjoying the other less crowded gyms. Bouldering Stockholm is very cozy but a bit warm in the summer. Imo Klätterverket and Karbin set better - techy and plenty foot chips - compared than the rather uninteresting 'churn out routes' style that Klättercentret employs. I'm almost looking forward to the rainy days that force you to go inside...
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Jul 25, 2019 15:00
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Hauki posted:
I believe she is injured. I tried verifying this but failed in the 30 seconds I spent on my phone.
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Jul 25, 2019 19:49
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The gym put up this V2 slab problem that took me probably about 10 tries to do, pretty much everyone has agreed it's a real bastard of a problem. It's given some people who have been climbing for years a run for their money  I've been trying to downclimb as many problems as possible, but it's giving me some real trouble: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFSdsyweC00 Watching this, I think I need to utilize the lower footholds better but I'm not sure.
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Jul 26, 2019 03:01
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Sab669 posted:The gym put up this V2 slab problem that took me probably about 10 tries to do, pretty much everyone has agreed it's a real bastard of a problem. It's given some people who have been climbing for years a run for their money Looks like a really fun climb. That static balance-y part near the beginning is my jam.
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Jul 26, 2019 04:26
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Niyqor posted:I believe she is injured. I tried verifying this but failed in the 30 seconds I spent on my phone. I think I remember something about that now. I did see she's registered for Hachioji though.
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Jul 26, 2019 05:02
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Some problems are also just a lot harder to downclimb, especially when you have a swing or other semi-dynamic move
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Jul 26, 2019 05:44
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Mons Hubris posted:Some problems are also just a lot harder to downclimb, especially when you have a swing or other semi-dynamic move Indeed, sometimes I find trying to down climb those can really mess with shoulders as well. In other news after a long hiatus I got outside least weekend. Did some sport up to 10b, trad to 5.9, a multiple pitch with a walk off for good measure. Felt pretty dang good. Especially plugging gear and being run out 25' on the 5.7 first pitch (no gear!). My gear skills were a bit off, good placements, not so good getting the right gear the first time. All in all good times.
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Jul 26, 2019 14:52
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Sab669 posted:The gym put up this V2 slab problem that took me probably about 10 tries to do, pretty much everyone has agreed it's a real bastard of a problem. It's given some people who have been climbing for years a run for their money Honestly downward dynos are "illegal" to set in professional comps for a reason, like I'm sure someone could drop into that start hold to finish the down climb but...why?
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Jul 26, 2019 16:12
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Got outside today with some people I met at the gym. Went to the roadside crag at the red. Climbed a bunch of fun easy slab and then a 5.10a slab. Don't really know why we climbed slab all day, but still had a great time.
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Jul 28, 2019 03:20
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