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Is there a way to use a Raspberry Pi to receive video over Airplay? I'd like to shoot my TrainerRoad app to a screen while I'm on the indoor bike trainer and keep my AppleTV free to watch something.
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Sep 10, 2019 17:58
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TraderStav posted:Is there a way to use a Raspberry Pi to receive video over Airplay? I'd like to shoot my TrainerRoad app to a screen while I'm on the indoor bike trainer and keep my AppleTV free to watch something. I haven’t used it yet, but https://github.com/FD-/RPiPlay is what I’d try first.
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Sep 10, 2019 18:13
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Subjunctive posted:I haven’t used it yet, but https://github.com/FD-/RPiPlay is what I’d try first. Thanks, I'll give it a go!
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Sep 10, 2019 18:20
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General_Failure posted:I'm not sold on 5GHz WiFi. Even with the router a little over 2m away with no obstructions the signal is a couple of bars down. A couple of rooms away, forget it. That said, if you're losing signal from 2 meters away either something is very wrong with your setup or you're actually too close and are over-driving the receiver. Progressive JPEG posted:5GHz is mainly useful in situations like an apartment building where 2.4GHz is saturated and would involve lots of retries on every packet. It is more sensitive to obstructions that would not be a problem for 2.4 GHZ, but this can work in your favor when it comes to avoiding the interference caused by 5 GHz APs run by your neighbors.
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Sep 10, 2019 20:47
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FWIW that's been my experience with 5ghz too. Even in perfect line of sight open environments you're lucky to get 50 yards of useable range. Put any kind of obstruction in there like a wall or floor and forget it. This is from whatever crap chipsets are in modern home office routers though--who knows maybe there are better antennas, configurations, etc for them.
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Sep 10, 2019 21:04
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mod sassinator posted:FWIW that's been my experience with 5ghz too. Even in perfect line of sight open environments you're lucky to get 50 yards of useable range. Put any kind of obstruction in there like a wall or floor and forget it. This is from whatever crap chipsets are in modern home office routers though--who knows maybe there are better antennas, configurations, etc for them. That’s the general trade-off for higher frequencies though — you can fit more data in but over a shorter distance and it doesn’t penetrate as well. Better antennas will help somewhat but that will only go so far.
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Sep 10, 2019 21:19
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mod sassinator posted:FWIW that's been my experience with 5ghz too. Even in perfect line of sight open environments you're lucky to get 50 yards of useable range. Put any kind of obstruction in there like a wall or floor and forget it. This is from whatever crap chipsets are in modern home office routers though--who knows maybe there are better antennas, configurations, etc for them. ~50 yards is about as far as you should expect from a home-class WAP with normal clients anyways. Remember, wireless networking is two-way communication, so if the WAP can't hear your device (or any device on the network) well performance will suck no matter how strong the signal from the WAP is. A laptop with antennas running up the screen or a desktop with proper external antennas can usually push the limits pretty well, but a cell phone, watch, IoT device, etc. isn't going to do well. If you have one device on the network trying to speak but not being heard clearly, performance can entirely go to hell. There is certainly no doubt that 5 GHz has worse range and especially wall penetration, that's basic physics, but if you're seeing worse performance within a single normal sized room something is very wrong. If you need to cover an area that's too large for a single 5 GHz access point to cover, IMO the correct answer is to add another one. A lot of houses and even some large apartments are best served with 2-3 access points all operating at lower power levels rather than asking everything to yell. I always recommend UniFi for these kinds of environments because they're really easy to link together, but if you can't easily wire the additional APs there are also a number of "mesh" options that use other wireless signals to connect the remote APs. Just if you do that make sure to get one of the models that has a separate radio for backhaul. The ones that share a radio between the AP and the backhaul effectively halve their bandwidth and double their minimum latency with every hop.
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Sep 10, 2019 22:18
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mod sassinator posted:FWIW that's been my experience with 5ghz too. Even in perfect line of sight open environments you're lucky to get 50 yards of useable range. Put any kind of obstruction in there like a wall or floor and forget it. This is from whatever crap chipsets are in modern home office routers though--who knows maybe there are better antennas, configurations, etc for them. 5ghz has trouble going through a sheet of printer paper, but it has a very high bit rate If you need long distance check out 800-900mhz class transmitters. You can get 2mb/s or higher sometimes. Zigbee is one brand that sells a turn key solution.
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Sep 11, 2019 00:02
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Folks I'm going to start doing a fair bit of travel for work and I'd like to be able to bring a Pi along to tinker with. Right now I've got a system set up using my Macbook and a USB dongle to share a network to a a Pi0W that works kinda sorta well. I did see this on Adafruit while looking around it it might be perfect for what I need. One thing though, does this share network data to the Pi from the host machine? If so, is this limited to OSX or do Windows machines have the ability to do so as well?
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Sep 11, 2019 01:06
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Warbird posted:Folks I'm going to start doing a fair bit of travel for work and I'd like to be able to bring a Pi along to tinker with. Right now I've got a system set up using my Macbook and a USB dongle to share a network to a a Pi0W that works kinda sorta well. I did see this on Adafruit while looking around it it might be perfect for what I need. One thing though, does this share network data to the Pi from the host machine? If so, is this limited to OSX or do Windows machines have the ability to do so as well? So be careful, the Pi zeros are special and can make their USB port expose itself as a USB peripheral like a serial port or a network adapter (that your computer can bridge with its wifi to share network). The full size Pi boards (3, 3B+, etc.) do not have this capability (it's complicated, there's a USB hub chip in front of the Pi's raw USB output and that prevents it from ever exposing itself as a USB peripheral.. the zero boards don't have that hub and as a result can do more fun USB stuff.. and it's even more complicated with the Pi 4 which does technically support the same on its USB-C port but there are issues with the current revision boards). What you're linking to is actually a bit different than plugging your Pi zero into your Mac and getting a serial console, network bridge, etc. That board is a little serial UART to USB adapter and it's made to connect to the serial UART on the Pi GPIO. This lets the Pi GPIO serial output (which by default is a direct login shell to the Linux system) connect to your computer and access it as a serial device, but it doesn't allow any of the other USB peripheral stuff like network sharing. But again things can get more complicated because you can actually share a computer network over a serial port--it's how modems connected to the internet back in the day and the Linux kernel still has plenty of support for PPP and tunneling your computer network (and internet) over a serial link to a connected linux board. So it is technically possible to use that board with any Pi and configure a PPP connection to share network and access with the Pi. However, I've done this a few times and let me tell you it is not for the feint of heart. No one uses PPP anymore and all of the documentation for it is man pages and crap from 1998. You will not find a nice clear 'just follow these 3 steps...' walkthrough on how to do it--everything you find will be dealing with someone's bespoke modem configuration for Linux that might have mattered 20 years ago but just complicates things today. In short--expect even more struggle and pain than when you got your Pi zero working with your Mac. Now all that said there is a really simple and cheap solution. Get one of these little travel routers (any brand will likely do): https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=asc_df_B00HZWOQZ6/ These are perfect because they can act as a little AP and you configure the Pi and your computer to connect to it (now your computer just sees the pi on the network as normal, no PPP fuckery), or you can even have it connect to a local wifi network (like in the hotel, whatever) and bridge that to its own private AP that the pi connects to (since it's usually a bitch to connect to hotel wifi with login webpages and such with a headless pi) so you computer can both see the pi and the local wifi. Some of them even have ethernet ports so you can just plug the pi ethernet in and avoid any wifi config fuckery. They are swiss army knives of networking devices and you'll find some way to get access to devices. As a fallback though that UART to USB pi gpio adapter is handy to bring too as a last resort to connect and run commands on the Pi. You could just use any 3.3 volt UART cable though as long as you know what pins to connect, for example this is what most folks recommend for the pi: https://www.adafruit.com/product/954 Travel router + USB to UART cable + printout of the pi GPIO pin functions + pi and power supplies should be all you need for pi development anywhere, online or offline. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 11, 2019 |
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Sep 11, 2019 02:07
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Oh man I wasn't expecting that level of detail (and in mercifully small words), thank you! I went ahead and cancelled that order for now, so let's just throw the PPP chip thingy business out the window. I'll just connect to the thing via USB if that's supported and this simple. This news is producing feelings similar to when someone mentioned that tab completion was a thing (a half decade later than it should have come up). I love/really really hate a good simple solution that I just missed. Funnily enough, I have already played around a bit with the travel router solution a bit using a unit I bought a million years ago in an ill fated attempt to use a kindle as a portable screen. This is all just the modern version of that initiative when you get down to it. I was debating moving to a two antenna model so I wouldn't be limited to having to source a wired connection. The model you linked seems more or less functionally identical so I think I'm off to a good start. mod sassinator posted:or you can even have it connect to a local wifi network (like in the hotel, whatever) and bridge that to its own private AP that the pi connects to (since it's usually a bitch to connect to hotel wifi with login webpages and such with a headless pi) so you computer can both see the pi and the local wifi. Can you expand on this a bit? I've had success just connecting to one or the other, but if I can "transfer" an internet connection to the travel router's network that would be ideal. It'd let me drag a chromecast around as well which would be even more ideal. I've previously got around this via using a WiFi dongle and Apple's wifi share stuff (hard coded the local WLAN into the Pi), but it's a bit hokey and I've shot myself in the foot with that a couple of times now. Edit: It seems that I could also just get the internet connection off my phone via Bluetooth PAN and share out a Wifi network from the MBP's Wifi radio. Learn something new every day. That travel router would still be more ideal though. Warbird fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Sep 11, 2019 |
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Sep 11, 2019 04:02
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A couple of notes should anyone else be thinking of fiddling with this: You can SSH in just fine after performing the steps I linked in the previous post, but you have to share the network connection/data/whatever via the Share area of the system preferences (OSX) to be able to phone out. Assigning an IP via the Network settings area dohickey causes the internet sharing to break all to hell. The Ethernet gizmo does NOT play nice with VPNs or at least NordVPN. Ditch the connection if you want the Pi phoning out at all.
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Sep 11, 2019 06:07
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I would like to buy a hifiberry amp and replace my giant receiver with a small pi-powered box. buuut if I use a Pi as a stereo, how might I connect a record player? The Pi (or hifiberry amp) doesnt have audio input, right? And the record player has RCA cables and a ground and needs a preamp. Is there some relatively simple component I can put between record player and Pi to make this happen?
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Sep 14, 2019 09:06
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Associate Christ
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other people posted:I would like to buy a hifiberry amp and replace my giant receiver with a small pi-powered box. I'd consider a USB sound card with an rca to 1/8" input cable like: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1475 plus https://smile.amazon.com/Insten-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Cable-Cord/dp/B0042DIZTE I'm sure there are other usb sound cards that will work but I like that adafruit tested that one out.
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Sep 14, 2019 09:24
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I went ahead and ordered the amp and case and poo poo. But I still think I need a preamp to bring the phono signal from the record player up to "line level" that the pi or any computer sound card input will expect. I'll see how far I get setting it all up for basic operation and if it seems to work well I'll look for a cheap/simple preamp.
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Sep 14, 2019 16:14
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Yes, you need a preamp. They can be had pretty cheap on Amazon. Though, I don't see the point of listening to a record if you're going to run it through a digital sound card.
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Sep 14, 2019 17:04
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Cojawfee posted:Yes, you need a preamp. They can be had pretty cheap on Amazon. Though, I don't see the point of listening to a record if you're going to run it through a digital sound card. If you really love a record you shouldn't need a pre-amp.
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Sep 14, 2019 18:04
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It sounds like you really should just keep your receiver. After all it's an audio amplifier that's purpose built to switch between multiple inputs of various types. The pi is a little linux board that's bad at audio processing by itself and needs a bunch of addons bolted on to make it (barely) as useful as a receiver. What you're planning with a record player feeding into a soundcard on the pi will work in theory, but you're doing some silly things like digitizing the record player output unnecessarily. If your receiver is big and annoying, sell it and get a tiny little amplifier. Something like this: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-pro-100w-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-with-usb-dac-ir-remote-and-sub-outpu--300-3835 That thing works as a USB DAC (i.e. soundcard) so you can plug it directly into the USB ports of the Pi and get great quality digital audio straight out of the Pi. There's a 3.5mm, RCA, optical, and even a bluetooth audio input so it can connect to your record player and even phone. It can connect to your minidisc player when that format gets in vogue again (hah I just have to chuckle at an optical input.. who uses that anymore). It's got a remote to control volume without loving around with apps and other bullshit like a Pi solution would need. It's going to be smaller and cheaper than frankensteining something together with a Pi and amp, input, etc. boards. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 20:51
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Subjunctive posted:I haven’t used it yet, but https://github.com/FD-/RPiPlay is what I’d try first. Thanks for this, got a solution that I think will work. Ended up utilizing my PiHole and HomeKit server for it since it didn't need a screen before. It's not working for airplaying YouTube videos (not intended use) but mirroring my training app appears to be working well. Will find out for sure my next workout. It froze up once during testing but I was playing around in and out of different apps and such.
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Sep 14, 2019 21:01
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mod sassinator posted:(hah I just have to chuckle at an optical input.. who uses that anymore). Great for breaking ground loops, directly convertible to/from spdif coax
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Sep 15, 2019 00:08
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I just bought a Pi 4 I'm looking to set up as a basic torrent box/file server. I want to run it headless, with the ability to remote into a GUI interface from my main PC. I briefly played around with this with a Pi 3B a year or two ago but never really got it working satisfactorily. VNC over SSH seemed finicky, and I seem to remember having issues getting it/X to start reliably on launch if it wasn't plugged into a monitor. I think the issue was VNC won't start at the X logon screen, and I can't remember if I ever got any kind of auto-logon set up. Basically I had to plug it into a monitor to log into it and launch everything after every kernel update or power outage. So is there a better way to do that? I know there's an X RDP implementation, but since RDP's a Microsoft thing I'm not sure how robust/secure its Linux implementation is. I do want to open this to the outside world occasionally so I can connect to it while traveling from time to time, but most of the time I plan to keep the ports locked down so it's only accessible from my local network.
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Sep 15, 2019 07:42
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Knormal posted:I just bought a Pi 4 I'm looking to set up as a basic torrent box/file server. I want to run it headless, with the ability to remote into a GUI interface from my main PC. I briefly played around with this with a Pi 3B a year or two ago but never really got it working satisfactorily. VNC over SSH seemed finicky, and I seem to remember having issues getting it/X to start reliably on launch if it wasn't plugged into a monitor. I think the issue was VNC won't start at the X logon screen, and I can't remember if I ever got any kind of auto-logon set up. Basically I had to plug it into a monitor to log into it and launch everything after every kernel update or power outage. Why do you need a gui at all? Rutorrent and sonarr and all that poo poo all have web interfaces and apps to monitor and control them. Running a gui on the local system and then using vnc or whatever to connect is a needlessly clunky way to do it.
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Sep 15, 2019 08:12
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I remember using rtorrent over ssh roughly 12-14 years ago and it was totally fine. I imagine there's been some new tools released in that time that would make it even better. Point is that you really don't need a GUI to manage your linux isos.
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Sep 15, 2019 10:48
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I've had great success in Linux iso retrieval using Transmission daemon on a rpi and connecting from my laptops using either the browser ui or transmission windows store app.
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Sep 15, 2019 12:56
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enable ssh access on your router, key only no passwords from your machine outside the network do ssh -L 8181:<internal rpi IP>:<port of whatever web gui> <your router IP> this forwards the port from the webserver on your internal network to port 8181 on localhost then from your local browser go to http://localhost:8181 if ur on windows install the WSL and you can use ssh from there. this will work way better than vnc and you can set up a script to do the ssh command.
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Sep 15, 2019 15:04
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I want a GUI because I'm lazy, and while most of the time I plan to leave it sitting idle torrenting all my Linux ISOs, I also want to potentially play with other stuff on it (hook it up to my TV to play videos directly, maybe emulation).
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Sep 16, 2019 05:38
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Is there any particular reason it's hard to find cases with space to mount a storage drive? It seems like a natural feature to want for a low-key media center. Edit: To answer my own question, I guess, said case would also need enough space for a SATA controller. Flip Yr Wig fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 18:39
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Flip Yr Wig posted:Is there any particular reason it's hard to find cases with space to mount a storage drive? It seems like a natural feature to want for a low-key media center. I've looked a lot, mostly for portable Retropie/Media box purposes, and I haven't found much. There's a kit to convert an old Sega Genesis shell that has space for one, there's a media box one that has room to velcro in an external, and the ODroid N64 style case has a similar setup, but that's about it. There were one or two crowdfunded projects that seemed to make their one batch then vanish, and I have seen a couple of Pi 3 cases with M2 SSD slots. Even as far as 3D printed designs, there's just not much. If the Pi 4 is better about powering an external drive off the USB port without causing the low power warning, maybe we'll see some more.
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Sep 16, 2019 19:03
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Knormal posted:I want a GUI because I'm lazy, and while most of the time I plan to leave it sitting idle torrenting all my Linux ISOs, I also want to potentially play with other stuff on it (hook it up to my TV to play videos directly, maybe emulation). If you install whatever distro and hook it up to your TV directly then you'll have a GUI desktop when you use it with your TV and you can play videos or do emulation. Remoting in from your main PC to access a web gui is a totally separate issue and you can skirt all of the possible issues with VNC not working because the pi is headless or whatever by doing the ssh sequence I described.
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Sep 17, 2019 02:21
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Welp. hifiberry amp arrived with the little plastic case and psu. Plugged it all in and it just... works. Almost too easy? To be fair, I had already set up the pi to act as a bluetooth audio sink. It takes up way less space than the old receiver and bluetooth box. I still may get a small preamp just so the record player is an option. Pro-ject makes a small one that includes usb output. So the path can be analogue -> digital -> digital -> analogue!
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Sep 20, 2019 15:04
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What's the go to security camera suite for the Pi these days? Kerberos.io seems pretty slick, but I'm not super interested in ponying up for their cloud service. Nothing stopping me from directing output to a NAS or GDrive or the like I suppose. I can't imagine the ios app works without the cloud stuff.
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Sep 22, 2019 03:22
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I am looking to add a HAT, but it requires a GPIO Header extender to fit, such as this. How do I figure out the length of the standoff that would fit?
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Sep 22, 2019 04:11
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Warbird posted:What's the go to security camera suite for the Pi these days? Kerberos.io seems pretty slick, but I'm not super interested in ponying up for their cloud service. Nothing stopping me from directing output to a NAS or GDrive or the like I suppose. I can't imagine the ios app works without the cloud stuff. I've used motioneyeos before. It works okay, although I had some trouble getting 1920x1080 out of an 8MP NoIR camera (but that was a while ago, maybe it's fixed): https://github.com/ccrisan/motioneyeos It's got images for a bunch of single board computers. https://github.com/ccrisan/motioneyeos/wiki/Supported-Devices
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Sep 22, 2019 04:19
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accipter posted:I am looking to add a HAT, but it requires a GPIO Header extender to fit, such as this. How do I figure out the length of the standoff that would fit? Guesstimating on the dimensions on the page, it seems like it's 8mm tall with 3mm pins, so I'd imagine ~5mm. There may be +/- a mm. It may be worth getting a little plastic box of standoffs on amazon or something so you have some different sizes and extras for other projects. I've got a metal kit like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Csdtylh-Male-Female-Standoff-Stainless-Assortment/dp/B06Y5TJXY1/ and a nylon kit like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DD07PTW/ I've mostly used nylon for the RPi but metal should be fine as well. I usually use metal screws to attach the pi into 3d printed cases. If they don't thread nicely I heat the screw with a soldering iron briefly so it makes its own threads in the plastic. They're not super robust but they keep the pi from rattling around.
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Sep 22, 2019 04:25
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Jesus this thing makes me feel dumb as gently caress. This is for a normal every day Pi-Hole setup. Grabbed a Pi Zero kit and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L32UUJK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Plug in the USB Ethernet, my router says it has a good connection, but the Pi Zero is just determined to stay on it's wifi. I had originally given its wifi a static address in my router, but then I read that it's best to turn off DHCP on the router and turn it on in the Pi-Hole Admin console. I have no clue how to get the thing to stop using wifi and specifically use the USB adapter. Hell I really wanted to just keep using DHCP on my router instead of letting Pi-Hole do it -- and maybe I still can -- but it's 1 in the morning after a full work day and my google fu is no longer strong. I'm dangerous at best with Linux (I took one college class and run Ubuntu on a laptop) so if you guys can help me out here I'd appreciate it. I can post logs or whatever when I get home from work.
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Sep 24, 2019 05:53
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I keep reading about SD cards making GBS threads the bed with a Pi. How big of an issue is this? I'm using a 3B+ for a home automation server (running Homeseer on Linux). It has a web interface which is what I use to make changes and things, and I can back it up from there every time I make major changes. So I'm not worried about losing anything... just wondering if I should be expecting the inconvenience (and how often) and if there's a way around it on the older Pi.
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Sep 24, 2019 20:12
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If whatever you're doing makes lots of writes to the same files, then that part of the SD card will eventually become corrupt. But the SD card in my media server Pi lasted for 3-4 years before I started getting constant errors.
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Sep 24, 2019 20:19
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Guitarchitect posted:I keep reading about SD cards making GBS threads the bed with a Pi. How big of an issue is this? It mostly happens when it shuts down unexpectedly, like a power failure or pulling the plug. If you can use a power bank or some other kind of battery/UPS solution, that would probably prevent the bulk of SD card issues. You could also boot off a USB device vs. an SD card. My understanding is that a USB SSD or hard drive would be preferable over a flash drive due to write cycles, but I'm not too familiar with the details. On the 3B+, you can just flash an image to the USB device and boot off it, no extra steps needed.
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Sep 24, 2019 20:22
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Guitarchitect posted:I keep reading about SD cards making GBS threads the bed with a Pi. How big of an issue is this? For the longest time my pi would have random crashes that I couldn’t explain. I tried dozens of things to fix and monitor it, but the one thing that has actually fixed things was to change the root partition to an SSD. It’s been absolutely stable ever since. My hunch is that the SD card would get unmounted which causes logging to stop and all sorts of weird errors to accumulate, including breaking SSH and other things. I highly recommend booting from USB and if you can.
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Sep 24, 2019 23:24
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Cojawfee posted:If whatever you're doing makes lots of writes to the same files, then that part of the SD card will eventually become corrupt. This is not how SD cards work, they have wear-leveling built in.
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Sep 24, 2019 23:36
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