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KKKLIP ART posted:So we got an Ikea Nordli headboard and it uses what is basically a french cleat to attach to the wall. They don't include mounting screws because it is sold worldwide and different places have different wall materials. I am in the US where it is all drywall. What type of screw should I be using, and consindering it is a pretty heavy headboard, what kind of drywall anchor should I be using for areas I don't hit a stud? EZ Anchor Toggles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M
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Jan 17, 2021 15:21
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Wasabi the J posted:EZ Anchor Toggles. Looks exactly like I need. Standard wood screw for the areas where I can actually hit a stud?
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Jan 17, 2021 15:47
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KKKLIP ART posted:Looks exactly like I need. Standard wood screw for the areas where I can actually hit a stud? Yes. For anchoring in open drywall I prefer the Toggler brand. They're nice because they don't fall into the wall if you need to remove the bolt.
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Jan 17, 2021 16:36
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KKKLIP ART posted:Looks exactly like I need. Standard wood screw for the areas where I can actually hit a stud? Yes and I generally predrill a very small hole to make your life easier with beefy screws.
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Jan 17, 2021 21:18
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On a normal household sink faucet setup, with a separate sprayer hose thing: Is there some kind of check valve in the faucet part? I came home tonight, did some dishes, sprayed some water with the hose and heard a "thud" and now nothing but a trickle of water comes out of the faucet itself, but still have full pressure on the sprayer hose. It *sounded* like something clicked shut and didnt open back up, but im not sure what valves are involved in a normal kitchen sink.
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Jan 18, 2021 03:42
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cr0y posted:On a normal household sink faucet setup, with a separate sprayer hose thing: Is there some kind of check valve in the faucet part? I came home tonight, did some dishes, sprayed some water with the hose and heard a "thud" and now nothing but a trickle of water comes out of the faucet itself, but still have full pressure on the sprayer hose. It *sounded* like something clicked shut and didnt open back up, but im not sure what valves are involved in a normal kitchen sink. Typically that "check valve" is the valve in the handle of the sprayer (like if the sprayer was disconnected from the hose all the water would come out of there). Doesn't sound like that's the case with your particular faucet so you you should get specific about model numbers (if you can find that) or photos.
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Jan 18, 2021 03:48
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Motronic posted:Typically that "check valve" is the valve in the handle of the sprayer (like if the sprayer was disconnected from the hose all the water would come out of there). Doesn't sound like that's the case with your particular faucet so you you should get specific about model numbers (if you can find that) or photos. It was a tiny pebble worth of mineral buildup blocking the little regulator hole at the tip of the faucet head 😑
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Jan 18, 2021 04:07
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cr0y posted:It was a tiny pebble worth of mineral buildup blocking the little regulator hole at the tip of the faucet head 😑 Yup, always worth a quick check for that. Nice going.
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Jan 18, 2021 05:17
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KKKLIP ART posted:So we got an Ikea Nordli headboard and it uses what is basically a french cleat to attach to the wall. They don't include mounting screws because it is sold worldwide and different places have different wall materials. I am in the US where it is all drywall. What type of screw should I be using, and consindering it is a pretty heavy headboard, what kind of drywall anchor should I be using for areas I don't hit a stud? I installed the very same headboard a month ago! I ended up getting https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/fixa-260-piece-screw-and-plug-set-00169249/ for the drywall anchors, but I made sure that 2 out of the 3 screws of each french cleat was attached to a stud -- I wouldn't feel safe otherwise! See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQx5SVj0biA for why it doesn't matter that much what type of drywall anchor you use -- if there's enough weight on it, the drywall part will fail first. floWenoL fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 06:36
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Meow Meow Meow posted:What are you trying to do in your garage? Like what's the purpose of heating it? My house has an under house garage similar to yours I found the key to keeping it comfortable was to never open the garage door in the winter (plus making sure it's well sealed, I put in new weatherstrip etc.) Then I just used a a small radiant electrical heater and would point it at myself for woodworking. Usually after 30 minutes or so I would be hot enough to turn the heater off and be fine for quite a while. Woodworking and home gym, yeah. It's a 2 car garage, probably ~500 sq ft. I tried the regular space heater thing awhile ago and the cold just laughed at me. NBD, I have an electrician coming today. Super excited to be getting some real outlets in there, too. So tired of running everything off of the one overhead plug.
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Jan 18, 2021 15:17
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floWenoL posted:I installed the very same headboard a month ago! I ended up getting https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/fixa-260-piece-screw-and-plug-set-00169249/ for the drywall anchors, but I made sure that 2 out of the 3 screws of each french cleat was attached to a stud -- I wouldn't feel safe otherwise! See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQx5SVj0biA for why it doesn't matter that much what type of drywall anchor you use -- if there's enough weight on it, the drywall part will fail first. I still use an anchor if whatever I am using doesn't span two studs obviously Have I been doing this wrong for two decades?
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Jan 18, 2021 15:22
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floWenoL posted:I installed the very same headboard a month ago! I ended up getting https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/fixa-260-piece-screw-and-plug-set-00169249/ for the drywall anchors, but I made sure that 2 out of the 3 screws of each french cleat was attached to a stud -- I wouldn't feel safe otherwise! See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQx5SVj0biA for why it doesn't matter that much what type of drywall anchor you use -- if there's enough weight on it, the drywall part will fail first. How is that first plug any different from a normal wall plug? The drywall plugs I've seen sold here are nothing like that (for one, they're metal).
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Jan 18, 2021 15:36
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stealie72 posted:Maybe I do it wrong, but as long as whatever I am hanging spans two studs and I can put two screws into a stud, I never put in drywall anchors for anything. So, even if I've got 15 inches at the end of a shelf hanging in space, I just leave it because I figure a screw into a stud is going to be so much more secure than anything in drywall. If you're wrong, then I don't want to be right.
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Jan 18, 2021 15:40
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KKKLIP ART posted:Looks exactly like I need. Standard wood screw for the areas where I can actually hit a stud? Yeah the other posters are right, a simple cleat is easier and would be the most secure, since the entire load would be distributed on the studs and not on the drywall. The damage would also be more minimal. You can purchase premade french cleats at most hardware stores or online.
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Jan 18, 2021 16:27
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stealie72 posted:... Nope. That's the proper way. I designed and built these shelves in 2016, using a homemade mounting system that looks dodgy but handled the inevitable Cat Mass Test in the 1990s (on an earlier shelf project in the 1990s) so I still use it. Hitting studs is a requirement for it to remain robust, so the ends of my angle brackets occasionally extend past the shelf plane     In the image below, you can see the angle iron (actually aluminum) peeking out from the top shelf right side & bottom left below the window. (the shelves above it are reflected in the trim paint)  (edit): this replaced the clunky & too-large IKEA set we put up in 1993, which covered part of the window. I was going to take it apart and cut down the short-side shelves. I decided gently caress it, we need something better.  PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 16:28
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How did you do the cool retro aluminum edge banding?
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Jan 18, 2021 17:08
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I bought it from a retailer in Astoria, Queens: New York Metal. Fortunately, I knew I was going to be in the area handling commercial claims, so I ordered ahead & picked up what I needed in 10' lengths. They ship, but I think 8-LF is the maximum shippable length, and since they have to build a box with a wooden stiffener, the shipping is hideously expensive...but on the east coast, it's the only place I could find. https://www.newyorkmetal.com/
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Jan 18, 2021 17:14
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Woodworking and home gym, yeah. If your main panel isn't in the garage have them put in a small sub panel with room for a car charger. The cost shouldn't go up much - the big labor component is fishing wire to your main. 100A or bust.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:36
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H110Hawk posted:If your main panel isn't in the garage have them put in a small sub panel with room for a car charger. The cost shouldn't go up much - the big labor component is fishing wire to your main. 100A or bust. I have a (100A) subpanel in the master bedroom above the garage, so I'm hopeful it won't be too hard to run from there. There's plenty of room in that panel. The main panel (that I upgraded to 200A when I bought the house 3y ago) is on the other end of the house. Running a circuit from there would be... not easy.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:59
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I have a (100A) subpanel in the master bedroom above the garage, so I'm hopeful it won't be too hard to run from there. If your definition of "not too hard" includes trenching drywall and then patching no....it won't be hard. But there's almost definitely gonna be some drywall that needs cutting. What a strange place to put the subpanel. Was the master added in a reno?
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Jan 18, 2021 18:01
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Motronic posted:If your definition of "not too hard" includes trenching drywall and then patching no....it won't be hard. But there's almost definitely gonna be some drywall that needs cutting. Pre-fab housing. There are a number of... idiosyncrasies of owning this. They didn't use drywall, it's all paneling (when I completely reno'd the finished basement, I ripped out all the paneling and drop ceiling and redid everything with mold-reistant drywall.) The subpanel is in its own little column, so I'm hoping he'll be able to drill straight down from the panel into the garage and run circuits from there. Guess I'll find out in a few hours!
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Jan 18, 2021 18:07
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Pre-fab housing. There are a number of... idiosyncrasies of owning this. They didn't use drywall, it's all paneling (when I completely reno'd the finished basement, I ripped out all the paneling and drop ceiling and redid everything with mold-reistant drywall.) The subpanel is in its own little column, so I'm hoping he'll be able to drill straight down from the panel into the garage and run circuits from there. Guess I'll find out in a few hours! Yeah, I mean....assuming this is built relatively like normal stick construction as long as he can get access to drill through the sole plate in the same stud bay as the panel it should be fine.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:13
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I don't think he'll even need to go through the sill plate is what I'm saying. Check it out: Bump out for panel.  Bottom of bump out. This should probably be in the electrical thread.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:29
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I don't think he'll even need to go through the sill plate is what I'm saying. Check it out: Holy poo poo is your house a fire hazard, with all wood paneling like that. That sub-panel install looks terrible, those wires shouldn't be loose, for one. There are other issues, but maybe ask the electrician to clean things up around that panel at least?
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Jan 18, 2021 18:34
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Wow that all looks like absolute poo poo. If I walked up to a panel like that I wouldn't do the work you're looking for because gently caress being the last person to touch that thing. That should be in the crappy construction thread, not the electrical one. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Jan 18, 2021 18:39
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I have a (100A) subpanel in the master bedroom above the garage, so I'm hopeful it won't be too hard to run from there. There's plenty of room in that panel. Sounds fine. Re: pictures I take a less hostile approach. Ask your electrician to clean up the stapling and double check the interior of it. It's clamped for the entry to the panel and the mains appear to be in conduit. Way better than the sub we had in my parents house for the addition which was 100a with a single branch for the whole addition and the ground was just floating in the outlet boxes. If you breathed on the breaker it opened, was amusing. Oh and there were like 4ish breakers installed and labeled, they went nowhere. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 18:43
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Elviscat posted:Holy poo poo is your house a fire hazard, with all wood paneling like that. Will do. (Ask me about the literal fire hazard I found opening the walls in the basement, where mice had chewed some wiring and scorched some wood/insulation.) Those loose wires run to the heat tape the PO installed (had installed? Idk, probably a DIY). The rest of the panel is original work, and fine I think? I can take a picture later when wife is finished with work for the day.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:44
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Will do. (Ask me about the literal fire hazard I found opening the walls in the basement, where mice had chewed some wiring and scorched some wood/insulation.) Ah, PO fuckery is the best option here, hopefully the interior is done well. That panel shouldn't be in a chase like that, and you can tell by the flush mount cover and original conduit that the chase probably came after the panel. It's not the WORST safety hazard ever.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:58
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So, looking again for the first time in 3 years, I think my memory of this box is not how I pictured it. I definitely do remember the inspection report saying it was fine, other than the wires coming out the top. Maybe I can dig that out again. Electrician should be here shortly, we'll see what he has to say. eta: Electrician isn't worried about panel, can put a trench below this panel to funnel wiring into conduit in garage. Panel doesn't have enough space to run all the outlets I wanted, but enough to still make it worth doing (heater circuit, one 220, one 110) SouthShoreSamurai fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 20:13
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I imagine that this thing is doing a Hank Hill AUUUGGHHHH!!!
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Jan 18, 2021 22:00
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Is there a home networking thread? I have what I think is a really simple job of wiring two bedrooms with network jacks, but I'd like some insight/advice/ tips from people who have done it before. Here's the plan - get up in the attic, run two 75 foot cables (~45ft horizontal run plus ~9 vertical ft on each end) from the modem/network switch to each bedroom. The locations of the drops shown are where the coax drops are now, we don't have a need for those any more, so my plan is to follow those drops down and replace the coax plates with ethernet plates. Is there anything I'm not thinking about, or is it as easy as it is in my head (I know it won't be)? I know I'll have insulation to deal with, and the drops are on exterior walls, but I figure if someone already ran drops with coax, ethernet should be just as easy. Right?..... 
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Jan 18, 2021 23:53
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Sneeing Emu posted:Is there a home networking thread? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319&pagenumber=549&perpage=40
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Jan 19, 2021 00:32
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stealie72 posted:Maybe I do it wrong, but as long as whatever I am hanging spans two studs and I can put two screws into a stud, I never put in drywall anchors for anything. So, even if I've got 15 inches at the end of a shelf hanging in space, I just leave it because I figure a screw into a stud is going to be so much more secure than anything in drywall. Probably not, I'm just a noob! I put in the drywall studs for a vague belt-and-(crappy)-suspenders reason, but it's possible that putting in the drywall anchor is worse than just leaving it with two studs. I guess my point was that two studs is the minimum I'd feel comfortable with w.r.t. this headboard.
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Jan 19, 2021 03:08
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3D Megadoodoo posted:How is that first plug any different from a normal wall plug? The drywall plugs I've seen sold here are nothing like that (for one, they're metal). By 'first plug' you mean the Ikea one I linked? I don't think it's particularly special, but I got it since at the time I wasn't going out anywhere, and I figure if I were to order some plugs sight unseen the Ikea set would have a good chance of being the ones that would work with this headboard. FWIW, it's pretty common here (in the US) for drywall plugs to be plastic instead of metal.
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Jan 19, 2021 03:11
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Sneeing Emu posted:Is there a home networking thread? I have what I think is a really simple job of wiring two bedrooms with network jacks, but I'd like some insight/advice/ tips from people who have done it before. Quite often with coax, it’s just crappy installers drilling straight through exterior walls and won’t be of any help running new wiring. If it is a good run you want to replace, tape the cat5e/cat6 spool to the end of the coax, and have two people (one at each terminus) helping feed the wire through the run. Also tape a spool of twine so you’re running ethernet + an extra rope to pull more down the line. Fish tape and push sticks might be helpful if you can’t just yank the coax out and use it to pull the new wiring. Also get a patch panel and punchdown tool so you have a fixed terminus at your modem/network rack. And it sounds like you want to just buy two 75’ cables. Don’t do that, get a spool of cat6 or cat5e and crimp your own heads on there. It’s easier to pull, doesn’t get snagged, and you get the exact length you need. Be sure to leave a few loops extra on the end in case you ever need to move your rack or patch panel.
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Jan 19, 2021 04:13
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OSU_Matthew posted:Quite often with coax, it’s just crappy installers drilling straight through exterior walls and won’t be of any help running new wiring. If it is a good run you want to replace, tape the cat5e/cat6 spool to the end of the coax, and have two people (one at each terminus) helping feed the wire through the run. Also tape a spool of twine so you’re running ethernet + an extra rope to pull more down the line. Fish tape and push sticks might be helpful if you can’t just yank the coax out and use it to pull the new wiring. I posted in the networking thread, and they suggested I use MoCA adapters instead of running new cables, which sounds ideal for this situation. Each room already has a coax terminal, and we don't have cable TV, just internet, so it sounds pretty plug and play friendly, and much less labor and frustration. We'll see how it goes, thanks for the tips!
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Jan 19, 2021 04:55
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Sneeing Emu posted:I posted in the networking thread, and they suggested I use MoCA adapters instead of running new cables, which sounds ideal for this situation. Each room already has a coax terminal, and we don't have cable TV, just internet, so it sounds pretty plug and play friendly, and much less labor and frustration. We'll see how it goes, thanks for the tips! Make sure that your existing coax cables actually carry a sufficient signal. Get a coax cable tester before you drop $$ on MoCA adapters. I just tried MoCA for my existing coax cable runs but it turns out the original installer used poor quality cable which also degraded with age (it was poorly and violently routed). So while it could carry a signal sufficient for cable television it couldn't pass a proper signal for cable Internet. melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jan 20, 2021 |
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Jan 19, 2021 23:15
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Just got a kerosene heater for my wood shop. Is there anyway to avoid spending $10 a gallon on K-1 kerosene? Is gas station kerosene really not an option? Any other way to lower the cost to run this thing?
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Jan 20, 2021 23:52
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Just got a kerosene heater for my wood shop. Is there anyway to avoid spending $10 a gallon on K-1 kerosene? Is gas station kerosene really not an option? Any other way to lower the cost to run this thing? I thought gas stations typically sold K-1 kerosene.
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Jan 20, 2021 23:58
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I’ve never been to a gas station that sold kerosene, or I had no idea that any gas stations sold kerosene, can pick which I guess. We talking like one of those big heavy heaters that look like jet engines?
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Jan 22, 2021 05:15
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