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For road I went from 175 to 172.5 and it got rid of a ton of tightness in the knee area issues I had. Totally anecdotal though, and I swear I made more power with the 175 but I kept getting weird knee niggles so it definitely wasnt worth it. MTBs have longer cranks. Most track bikes are 165. Havn't been on either in a while but the change isn't that jarring imo. But you can really spin up a 165.
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Jun 10, 2021 09:13
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also my "group ride" with fellow human cyclists today was nice a lot of us including me havnt been on a 10 person group ride in like a year
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Jun 10, 2021 09:18
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I ride 175 road and 170 TT. Only real difference I feel is that I can spin up to target cadence more easily on the TT.
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Jun 10, 2021 10:10
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learnincurve posted:“If something is free then you are the product” The problem with that saying is that people always think the reverse is implied. On Strava Premium, you're still the product.
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Jun 10, 2021 10:30
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The only real difference with crank length is that your saddle height is set based on the maximum leg extension (how high the saddle needs to be for you to not rock your hips while pedaling), and your hip angle on the other side is more extreme with a longer crank. More extreme hip angles impair your ability to generate consistent power. To mitigate this, you either accept that, or bring the bars up to a higher position to mitigate it, which for most people increases their drag. This is why for all disciplines where aerodynamics matters, cyclists that aren't following "bro science" have moved to shorter cranks. There are a few other considerations: A longer crank does make it easier to generate more force by a marginal amount. I'm not an experienced enough mtber to know how critical this is. It also has more pedal strikes, so... Hard to say for that? A longer crank requires faster foot movement at a given cadence. This creates a noticeably different "feel" when pedaling. Good or bad, I don't know, but it feels different. I consistently ride bikes ranging from 165mm (track, road, cx) to 170 (tandem, commuter), to 175 (mtb). It's weird for about 5 minutes and then feels fine. I am still planning on swapping shorter on the mtb, but it's a low priority plus supply chain headaches means it hasn't happened yet. In short: ride what feels good, but if you want to go fast, ride shorter cranks.
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Jun 10, 2021 13:37
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learnincurve posted:I got a 33” inseam and 165mm cranks exactly replicate the experience of standing up on an 8 year old’s bike to check everything is working. Other people swear by shorter cranks but I just can’t get along with them. Maybe you have unusually long femurs? I'm at 34.5" and am exclusively on 165.
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Jun 10, 2021 13:52
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Possibly, my seat has to be quite far back. It gets weirder when I tell you I’m 5ft 5” so basically I’m a child size head and body on stilts.
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Jun 10, 2021 13:56
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Heads up for Podium people. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2021/CamelBak-Recalls-Caps-Sold-with-Podium-and-Peak-Fitness-Water-Bottles-Due-to-Choking-Hazard
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Jun 10, 2021 18:37
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Are those high flow caps? I bought some 0,7L sports bottle and the nozzle is next to useless. The only way to drink from that bottle is to stop, screw open the top capz drink. Any recommendations on high flow drinking bottles? Something which is not a choking hazard. Thanks.
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Jun 10, 2021 18:58
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Heads up for Podium people. I got the notification from amazon as well. I checked my bottles and they don't match the numbers posted thankfully.
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Jun 10, 2021 19:06
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I thought a Garmin Fenix 6 pro would be the only device I'd need for all sports but it is so poo poo for guidance during cycling that I'm seriously considering selling it for a Wahoo Bolt v2 or similar and put the change toward a varia radar. The fact that the Fenix menu are so confusing doesn't help it. How good is the guidance on those wahoo ? the review I looked at make it pretty decent. Krogort fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 19:42
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not great tbh
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Jun 10, 2021 19:46
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Krogort posted:I thought a Garmin Fenix 6 pro would be the only device I'd need for all sports but it is so poo poo for guidance during cycling that I'm seriously considering selling it for a Wahoo Bolt v2 or similar and put the change toward a varia radar. Some people say it works for them, but my experience with the Bolt v2 is that navigation is pretty terrible. It's easy to import routes and the turn notifications are appropriate to those routes, but the distances to the turns are massively inaccurate. It thinks I'm 100s of feet away from a turn when I'm right on it.
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Jun 10, 2021 20:18
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I’ve moved to 165s on all my bikes and I’m never going back. 
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Jun 10, 2021 20:45
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Weembles posted:Some people say it works for them, but my experience with the Bolt v2 is that navigation is pretty terrible. I noticed map updates on my roam like a week ago. Was hoping those would resolve the problem with cues showing up in the wrong places. Have you got the latest map updates? (you have to go into the phone app to get them)
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Jun 10, 2021 22:51
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Dren posted:I noticed map updates on my roam like a week ago. Was hoping those would resolve the problem with cues showing up in the wrong places. Have you got the latest map updates? (you have to go into the phone app to get them) I hadn't heard about the update. I haven't had the chance to get out since last week, but I'll give it a try when I do. I like everything else about the Bolt, if navigation and live segments start working it will be a home run.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:52
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Weembles posted:I hadn't heard about the update. I haven't had the chance to get out since last week, but I'll give it a try when I do. I haven’t been out to see if anything got better but I believe map updates could possibly fix things since if you look at the map view it knows where you are, it’s just reporting the cues and strava segments wrong.
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Jun 11, 2021 01:21
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Ritchey posted a good article about the shortage of bike and bike bling https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/blog/when-will-more-ritchey-products-be-available
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Jun 11, 2021 01:40
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The lock on my Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit Chain Lock has fubared (which seems to be a thing according to reviews) I have no idea if this is the right word but I think it’s called the barrel mechanism. You have to fiddle about in stages to get each layer of the key to connect, then you finally get it off, high pitch scream and throw it across the shed before remembering it has a lifetime warranty on it. 
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Jun 11, 2021 09:03
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i learnt my lesson and now if a lock starts loving up it goes in the bin (or gets replaced) not fun having to get someone to come cut your stuck lock in town
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Jun 11, 2021 10:21
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learnincurve posted:The lock on my Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit Chain Lock has fubared (which seems to be a thing according to reviews) I have no idea if this is the right word but I think it’s called the barrel mechanism. You have to fiddle about in stages to get each layer of the key to connect, then you finally get it off, high pitch scream and throw it across the shed before remembering it has a lifetime warranty on it. hemale in pain posted:i learnt my lesson and now if a lock starts loving up it goes in the bin (or gets replaced) not fun having to get someone to come cut your stuck lock in town Put a couple drops of chain lube down the keyhole and the shackle holes. I had this problem over 10 years ago, asked at my LBS and this immediately fixed it. I haven't had and problems since even with regular use. Any decent lock should last longer than you.
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Jun 11, 2021 16:34
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This isn’t that but I wish it was - it’s like each layer of the lock mechanism is spinning independently - it’s three months old and only been in the shed - the chain is what I bought it for so I’ve swapped it for an albus lock I had which will fit round the rear triangle. The reviews all said bin the tiny U lock and I found out why.
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Jun 11, 2021 16:43
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Has anyone ever had some sort of persistent muscle strain or irritation after having improper bike fit? I do have another PT appointment setup in a couple weeks (I had been dealing with other issues requiring PT before I started biking again). For me it's a spot just to the left of my knee on just my left leg. I would imagine that the seat being too low for a while + being out of shape (no exercise since January) + it's really hot out wasn't a great combo. While I do really enjoy being on my bike, maybe continuing to do so before seeing someone and doing the fitting is a bad idea.
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Jun 11, 2021 17:16
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Put a couple drops of chain lube down the keyhole and the shackle holes. I had this problem over 10 years ago, asked at my LBS and this immediately fixed it. I haven't had and problems since even with regular use. Any decent lock should last longer than you. That wasn't the problem. Mechanism was hosed but to be fair it wasn't a decent lock.
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Jun 11, 2021 17:24
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Idk if you have tried this but I got a method with seats where I put it as far back as possible ride slowly for 10 mins along the canal path and then move it 2mm forward, at some point just it just clicks and feels exactly right as the knee/arse pain stops.
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Jun 11, 2021 17:26
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learnincurve posted:Idk if you have tried this but I got a method with seats where I put it as far back as possible ride slowly for 10 mins along the canal path and then move it 2mm forward, at some point just it just clicks and feels exactly right as the knee/arse pain stops. I was able to find a height where the knee pain went away (pretty close to the "lemond method" height), but I'm thinking that the riding I had done at the suboptimal height is what caused the issue as it started around the same time, and so what I'm feeling now is just a latent effect.
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Jun 11, 2021 17:48
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learnincurve posted:This isn’t that but I wish it was - it’s like each layer of the lock mechanism is spinning independently - it’s three months old and only been in the shed - the chain is what I bought it for so I’ve swapped it for an albus lock I had which will fit round the rear triangle. The reviews all said bin the tiny U lock and I found out why. This happens all the time on my lovely secondary master lock U lock that I got for free as a replacement when people found out you could open their old models with a BIC pen. I just have to lightly jiggle things around until the layers all realign and the key finally inserts all the way. I found this out after being forced to take an Uber XL home one night because I couldn’t get the drat thing off. Luckily I was not chained to anything and was just using it as a light theft deterrent because it was in sight.
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Jun 11, 2021 17:56
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I use lock oil in my locks. A bit once in a few years. I stopped using Kryptonite after their locks were opened by anyone with a regular bic pen. Buy Abus locks with a key which looks like this: https://lockitt.com/abus-plus-replacement-key.html?sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjJpdm5iJDxAhWl_CoKHVZPDyYQ9QF6BAgFEAI They are quite reliable.
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Jun 11, 2021 18:07
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actionjackson posted:Has anyone ever had some sort of persistent muscle strain or irritation after having improper bike fit? I do have another PT appointment setup in a couple weeks (I had been dealing with other issues requiring PT before I started biking again). For me it's a spot just to the left of my knee on just my left leg. I would imagine that the seat being too low for a while + being out of shape (no exercise since January) + it's really hot out wasn't a great combo. Sounds like it could be patella tendonitis. https://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/health/conditions-and-diseases/patellar-tendonitis-jumpers-knee
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Jun 11, 2021 18:14
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serious gaylord posted:Sounds like it could be patella tendonitis. thanks for the link, I also sent my PT a message with more detail.
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Jun 11, 2021 18:19
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i used to get something like that and you gotta pay attention to your IT band, i would only get it when i was getting to the point of over training but it also seemed like a product of my bike fit too, i dont get it any more on my current setup thankfully. in terms of bike fit you can look at your cleats first, maybe move them away from the toe more towards the ball of your foot, you can play around with your saddle height by lowering your seat and/or moving your seat a forward a bit, and as a last resort possibly try shorter cranks as a last. with all adjustments do one at a time and in small incriments. with all bike fitting adjustments its probably a good idea to at least get someone with experience to at least look at you on the bike first, not even a full fit but to make sure you are in the ball park and after that start making small adjustments if it doesnt clear up a proper bike fit would be a good idea numberoneposter fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 18:44
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Ongoing Madone work. After one ride, I knew I didn't like the 42cm stems and would rather go back to 40cm. But the parts are pretty rare, so would have to luck into the right size popping up on ebay. Eventually, got hooked up with a 40cm x 100mm item, so I thought about the horror of doing the swap and decided to bite the bullet. I didn't reread the instructions, as they only cover installing from scratch. My plan was to keep cable housings in place as much as possible and only reinstall new cables. Roughly accurate size comparison:  No pics of getting the cables out of the old bars, but here's the shifters off:  The uninstall part wasn't that bad. Just pop the Di2 connectors off, pull the cables out, the free the shifters from the bars, and gently tug the cable+wire out the bottom of the stem, making sure to note which cable goes through which hole (conveniently labeled, though). The only gotcha here was that I needed to unbolt the aero covers on the brakes to pull the brake cams off the cables. A cable housing doesn't want to turn corners in the unpained inside of the bar, so I fed a cable through the new bar:  By gently curving the end, you can spin the cable to have the tip line up with the holes. Front brake is the center hole; you can just make out the FBC label. Now you place the new bar over the steerer and slide the cable into the housing, which stays in place. Gently push the housing up into the stem and around to the holes in the ramps. If it gets hung up, pull the cable taut at both ends (a 2nd person would have been really helpful) to lift the edge of the housing. The picture shows my cable exiting the outside hole, but it works better if you exit the inside hole. Gives you better angle for directing the housing end. Once the housing shows up in the holes, poke it out with a hex wrench. At this point, the new bar is hovering a few inches above the headset. Any higher and you're pulling the housing out from its guides at the headset. Next, put the front Di2 wire into the FDC hole (on the left when looking at the bottom of the stem) and spin it so that it flops toward the left (looking from the top of the bars) ramp. At this point, the only other obstruction inside the bars is the left brake housing, so the wire was generally moving pretty free. I had a rare earth magnet that I could use the not only find the wire, but also nudge it along. Eventually it showed up at the holes:  Because the housing was blocking a lot of the inside hole, I had to pull the connect out the outside hole, get some wire pulled through, and then feed it over to the other side. The extra wire length sitting in the frame made this pretty easy. I cannot imagine how extra nightmarish it would be if I was working with a shift cable housing. So now the left side was done. The rear housing cable was similar, but now I couldn't position the bar as freely, since I was tied down by the wires already routed through. Not only that, but to repeat my cable guide trick, I had to go all the way out to the cable exit at the rear of the frame. Cable housing went ok, but I couldn't just spin my way to success with the Di2 wire. A lot more traffic in the bar. I used a cable as a lead and bought it out the stem, then taped it to the connector:  And very gradually pulled the wire along. It got hung up right as it reached the holes:  Hard to make out, but that's the cable already pulled out the hole and the electric tape above it. Used a tiny hex key to hook the tape and budge out the connector. So now all cables/wires are routed through the bar:  Note the tape on the split headset spacers to keep them from flying apart. I should have used more. These should have a more secure locking system. More on that later. I checked a couple times that everything was traveling down through the provided holes a couple times. Surprised myself by not being more paranoid about pinching something. The spacers are basically voids; the real restriction is a metal plate with holes over the headset bearing. If you miss the holes, the bottom white spacer won't be flush. Now we get to the agonizing part. Before finishing the brakes, I decide to preload and cinch up the stem. It keeps wobbling when I push down on the hoods even when I get to torque spec. At first I thought it was the preload... somehow. I did notice that if you don't stack your spacers perfectly, they'll easily push aside or distort under a few Nm of torque on the stem cap. Really annoying but should only be a final preload issue -- as you tighten the stem, if the spacers keep shifting and moving around, then they might be loose enough that preload will keep changing. Before I was running a single 10mm Madone spacer and then a 2.5mm round spacer on top of the stem. This time I'm trying a 10mm and a 5mm stacked, and it's the 5mm that's obviously very squirmy. It's the design of this generation of spacer:  The latching at the front and back is shallow, so you only get a couple mm of displacement before they unhook. And the pieces can shift front/back relative to each other to unhook. Even when they're together, the only alignment from spacer to spacer are those two raised dots. Next gen's design:  So it locks front/back shifting at the rear, and you have the full height of the spacer before up/down shifting unhooks it. At the front, the locking is 2 axis. And instead of dots, you have slotted pins to help maintain alignment on your spacer stack. I'm mulling my options here: - sand the spacers to get a little more grip - glue each half into a 15mm spacer - ditch the 5mm and go back to 2.5mm above the stem (Trek approved setup for this stem/fork setup) - slam another 10mm and get rid of the spacer entirely. I'm not running a lot of drop on this H2 frame. Remember, these changes would only address the variable preload issue, where the top headset bearing might get unloaded as the spacers shift around. Now onto the more troubling issue I ran into:  The front and sides are squared off a bit, so the stem doesn't make nearly as much contact as with a normal steerer. The steerer is weirdly shaped for cable routing clearance, and between it and the bespoke expander plug, I've never experienced a steerer that relied on the expander plug being torqued properly to offer proper resistance/stiffness from the inside. When I first tried to clamp the stem, it kept wobbling even at full torque specs. Can't blame that on the spacer issue. I checked and realized my expander plug was fairly low torque, not the 9-10 Nm specced. Once I tightened it down, the stem clamped much better, but not as stiff as I would have though. I'm considering ditching the 5mm spacer in part to get further down on the steerer. Ok, so after figuring out the stem clamping, I went to feed in brake cables. Left side goes easy. Cable to the rear... snags at the 90deg turn from down the stem into the top tube. I tried everything, but the only thing that worked was unbolting the stem, straightening the cable housing a bit, and then freeing the cable. These last two bits took an hour on their own. I still haven't finished buttoning the brakes back up; kind of undecided on the spacer business. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 19:38
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actionjackson posted:Has anyone ever had some sort of persistent muscle strain or irritation after having improper bike fit? I do have another PT appointment setup in a couple weeks (I had been dealing with other issues requiring PT before I started biking again). For me it's a spot just to the left of my knee on just my left leg. I would imagine that the seat being too low for a while + being out of shape (no exercise since January) + it's really hot out wasn't a great combo. Left of knee sounds like an IT band thing to me. Stretching, foam rolling and hip strengthening exercises ahoy Whatever you do don't ignore it, can take you out for ages if you let it get too bad
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Jun 11, 2021 19:43
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thanks again everyone I was surprised when, at least according to this link, IT band is more associated with a saddle that is too high instead of too low. https://pedalchile.com/blog/itb-saddle-height "ITB syndrome is likely caused by increased tibial internal rotation, ITB tightness, inward pointing of toes on the pedals, increased hip adduction, a bicycle saddle position that is too high, and rapid increase in mileage" a very knowledgeable bike friend initially set my saddle at 27.5" a while ago. Using this now causes immediate knee pain. 29" is the highest I can where I'm still touching the pedals comfortable. So the best value is probably between 28-29. My cleats are already back as far as possible. I'll finally do the actual bike fitting as I've been delaying it too long. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 19:46
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I really really wanna put flat pedals on your bike to eliminate cleats from the fitting equation.
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Jun 11, 2021 20:21
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actionjackson posted:thanks again everyone You're doing too much reading. You won't sort your problem by reading things on the internet. You need to go to a professional fitter and you need to actually listen to what they say and give it time to bed in before you start changing things.
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Jun 11, 2021 20:42
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actionjackson posted:thanks again everyone Go to a fitter. I was convinced my shoulder pain was because of a too long stem. In the end the stem was too short plus 3 other things I hadn't thought of got changed that made a huge difference.
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Jun 11, 2021 20:48
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http://bikefastfit.com
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Jun 11, 2021 20:54
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Just made my fit appointment!
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Jun 11, 2021 21:38
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Promise to keep us updated! I for one am convinced it’s the seat being too far forward or back.
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Jun 11, 2021 21:54
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