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After getting a warning from a cop at the entrance to a forest road a few weeks back about insufficient flares I put some new ones on this weekend. I was expecting it to be pretty straightforward but of course my TJ has never had its flares removed before. I ended up having to drill out all the nutserts on the front flares because they had broken free from the metal and were free spinning forever. I'm happy with the new ones. They are he bushwhacker knockoffs you can get on amazon for ~$300. Post nutsert victory  Done  I like the look over the stock ones and hopefully won't get hassled by the RCMP any more.
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May 16, 2016 17:19
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| # ? May 27, 2024 08:55 |
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kastein posted:I did a 4" lift in the front of mine and 2.5" in the back since I wanted it to be leveled out. Used 4.5" Rustys leafs and a 2" cast steel lowering block (since MJs are SUA... I didn't want to use lovely alloy lifting/lowering blocks, they're known for cracking) and it was alright except the axle wrap was annoying. If I went over a bridge expansion joint with my foot on the throttle it'd hop and jerk and kick sideways a bit. I ended up taking them out and just went with the 4.5" lift and was happy with it. It looks like rusty's, rough country and BDS all have a add-a-leaf 3 inch kit for the MJ. But its still 4.5 if you want a full pack. BDS has a few selections 3/4", 1 3/4", 2" and 3". Never been a fan of add-a-leaf but There just aren't alot of options for the MJ apparently.
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May 16, 2016 17:37
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Veeb0rg posted:
That's putting it nicely. I ended up spending the full amount and getting a set of "stock height" HD springs that still lifted my rear end about 2 inches though "stock height" was relative to factory suspension options and the front is pretty sagged. 
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May 16, 2016 17:55
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 Is this one of those Jeep things I don't understand
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May 16, 2016 21:05
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Hood louvers = race car
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May 16, 2016 21:39
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The 5.9 had those louvers stock for better cooling. If you tuned that engine up a bit and stripped out the car I bet it would be a lot of fun to hoon around the track.
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May 16, 2016 21:42
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Because it's a race car...
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May 16, 2016 21:44
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mod sassinator posted:The 5.9 had those louvers stock for better cooling. If you tuned that engine up a bit and stripped out the car I bet it would be a lot of fun to hoon around the track. Orvis Edition feature...XJs had them, too.
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May 16, 2016 23:19
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Astonishing Wang posted:Because it's a race car... Doesn't really matter.. any car with live axles, rear wheel drive, and a big honkin American V8 putting out nearly 300hp is going to be fun as hell. Maybe not fast but definitely fun. Just watch that high center of gravity and Jeep suspension in tight turns! edit: Jesus, with some mods it looks like some people can get 400+ hp from the 5.9L. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 23:55
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Went and drove Pilot Rock Truck Trail (2N33) and Deep Creek/Dishpan Springs (3N34) near Crestline/Arrowhead last weekend with Astonishing Wang and a couple of his friends. Pilot Rock was chill and fun, and Deep Creek was less chill and the toughest road I've flogged my poor old XJ over so far. It kind of sucked keeping up with modern Jeeps on 33s/35s in an ancient XJ on 31s but my new front Aussie locker carried me through with a bit of expert spotting and a few new scrapes: also bonus JeepDogge Obstacle climbing up out of Deep Creek      my wheelbase  Dude handing me my smashed-off hubcap before I drove over it   Made it up  Parked up at the bottom of Dishpan Springs  Dishpan Springs was a serious obstacle and since it was getting late in the day and it would require a lot of rock-stacking and winching everyone up, we made the smart call and turned back down the way we came. I didn't get a photo of the stretch of trail but this photo from the internet explains our decision. I had a blast and have new faith in my old Renix Cherokee. Apparently I installed my Aussie locker correctly because it pulled me up over anything I aimed it at with ease. When I got back to my hotel the XJ was suddenly bleeding coolant - turned out the lower radiator hose had backed off a bit at the radiator side somewhere near the end of the day. Fixed it the next morning in the parking lot and whipped it back into LA without further complaint. Good weekend, great people, great time! Driving down out of the mountains the next morning was... interesting...  Damage status: time for sliders  
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May 17, 2016 02:57
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I have that exact same damage and had the exact same response. I feel like it's an XJ owner right of passage. Looks fun! I wish I could've gone - I had other plans and then ended up being laid up with an injury anyway.
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May 17, 2016 03:00
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Go figure. A while back FCA put out a website to get WJ owners to go through the hitch inspection recall, because they were getting such poo poo take rates on it. The way the form played out, though, if you selected that you had a factory hitch, it didn't tell you to do anything. Well, fast forward a few months, and when I got my airbag computer replaced, they still had it listed as outstanding for the hitch recall too and marked it as done. Just got a $100 gift card today. 
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May 17, 2016 06:45
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I've discovered something mighty strange last night with my TJ front marker lights. I recently replaced the stock ones with led markers that came with my new flares. They work fine when the headlight switch is off. When I turn the headlights on the marker lights stop working. The front turn signals however continue to function. I'm presuming this is not working as intended. I haven't started to trace the wiring harness yet but I thought the markers were just in parallel with the front turn signals. 
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May 17, 2016 17:45
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mashed_penguin posted:I've discovered something mighty strange last night with my TJ front marker lights. I recently replaced the stock ones with led markers that came with my new flares. They work fine when the headlight switch is off. When I turn the headlights on the marker lights stop working. The front turn signals however continue to function. I'm presuming this is not working as intended. Was there any kind of resistor included with the LED blinkers? I've heard of problems being caused by the low voltage that an LED uses vs the power taken by the standard bulbs. It's not pulling enough for the Jeep to know it's there so it goes wonky. Not sure if that's the cause here, usually the problem is super rapid blinking. There are blinker relays specifically made for LED turn signals. It could also be your turn signal stalk but if it was fine before the LEDs it's probably not. My stalk has hosed up twice to the point it will turn the fog lights on without pulling them on. I just pulled the fog relay because I'm tired of changing stalks.
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May 17, 2016 18:24
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That actually does make sense - headlights off, full voltage available, headlights on, less available.
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May 17, 2016 18:27
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I haven't added any load resistors with them but as you said my understanding was those were to prevent rapid flashing. I still have the regular bulbs in the front turn signals so I think those are providing enough load to prevent that. I guess I'll have a look with a multimeter and see what voltage they are getting when the headlights are on.
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May 17, 2016 21:00
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mashed_penguin posted:I haven't added any load resistors with them but as you said my understanding was those were to prevent rapid flashing. I still have the regular bulbs in the front turn signals so I think those are providing enough load to prevent that. I guess I'll have a look with a multimeter and see what voltage they are getting when the headlights are on. LEDs are much more binary in their sensitivity to voltage than incandescent bulbs - rather than just getting dim, they reach a certain point, they just don't turn on. Combining this with your description (putting a big load on the electrical system kills them), I'd be pretty willing to bet that a relay would fix this.
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May 17, 2016 21:24
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Krakkles posted:Unless your marker lights flash (I wouldn't think so, from the description, but I don't own a TJ), that wouldn't apply to them. So relay directly from the battery with the relay control pin going to the v+ from the existing flasher circuit ?
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May 17, 2016 21:37
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mashed_penguin posted:So relay directly from the battery with the relay control pin going to the v+ from the existing flasher circuit ?
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May 17, 2016 22:07
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What are the specs on these LEDs, for starters? Are they even 12v? Your wiring should be capable of providing 12v to headlights AND markers...it doesn't make sense that there would be a voltage drop-off. It should be 12v LEDs that draw much lower amperage. But since your blinkers aren't flashing quickly, it doesn't look like the Jeep is seeing such a low draw as to trigger a rapid flash.
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May 17, 2016 22:43
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I'm not sure of their specs. I only tested them on my bench supply at 12v and they light up. I could always see what their cut off voltage is I guess. But they are only 4 LEDs per marker I can't imagine they draw much power.
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May 18, 2016 00:07
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If they didn't burn out in a split second at 12v, they're good. If they're 3v (likely) then 4 of them wired in series=12v. But probably only drawing 20 mA or so. That's almost 1% of the 3157 bulb's current.
Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:51 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 02:49
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So while I'm waiting on my transmission cooler line to be delievered, I decided to take off the coolant overflow tank since it was dirty looking. This is what I found after taking it off and removing the float.   It felt greasy/oily. On a scale of oh gently caress to meh, how hosed am I? Blown headgasket? PO fuckery by not using HOAT? Edit: For shits and giggles, here is my radiator cap. 
gileadexile fucked around with this message at 16:54 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 14:46
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I don't know about the problem but those are some really big oily deposits in your overflow tank if you know what I mean. Actually the overflow tank is also really big.
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May 18, 2016 15:32
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kastein posted:I don't know about the problem but those are some really big oily deposits in your overflow tank if you know what I mean. Actually the overflow tank is also really big. I just changed the oil and it looked alright. I mean, no coolant look or smell. Can't smell anything sweet in the exhaust, it runs fine, it's just all that..stuff..in the cap and overflow. I'm wondering now if I have a poo poo radiator cap, there looks to be yellowish/whitish crusted stuff in a spray pattern in a few places near it.
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May 18, 2016 16:02
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He's telling you your images are loving huge. What vehicle/engine are we looking at? I can't keep track of who drives what.
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May 18, 2016 16:36
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Godholio posted:He's telling you your images are loving huge. Sorry, phoneposting, could't tell. Should I use the thumbs setting? Motor is 4.7, '02 WJ Limited. I edited the pictures, did using thumbs work? gileadexile fucked around with this message at 16:55 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 16:50
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gileadexile posted:I edited the pictures, did using thumbs work? They are now beautifully not big.
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May 18, 2016 17:02
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How big/short of a job is it to replace the motor mounts on a 94 ZJ (5.2)? I know the transmission mount is pretty easy. I am currently replacing as many bushings as I can to restore ride quality. I figured the motor mounts are also good candidates for replacement.
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May 18, 2016 17:22
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Transmission cooler line came in while I was waiting for the rain to quit. It came in bent like this  I guess it was just for packing and I can lay it out beside the old one and bend it correctly, right?
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May 18, 2016 18:28
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Any tips on getting the stupid c-clips off an old ujoint so I can change it? I managed to brute force one but the other axle just isn't playing along.
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May 18, 2016 21:21
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Whack the ujoint cap inward before you try. It doesn't take much to free it up. If it's an external-clip ujoint (driveshaft joints) you might mangle the clip with a socket doing this, but it usually helps. Inside-clip ujoints (axle joints and some older Dodge/Chevy driveshaft joints) it's easy.
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May 18, 2016 23:00
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kastein posted:Whack the ujoint cap inward before you try. It doesn't take much to free it up. If it's an external-clip ujoint (driveshaft joints) you might mangle the clip with a socket doing this, but it usually helps. Inside-clip ujoints (axle joints and some older Dodge/Chevy driveshaft joints) it's easy. d30 shafts. so no external clip.
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May 19, 2016 02:12
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hi my name is tactical sandals and i have brain problems Just bought this '88 Cherokee Pioneer. Body is in decent shape, doesn't seem to have any frame rot somehow, but transmission is fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucked. It has the BA10/5 now and it came with a donor AX15. From what I've seen doesn't seem to be too difficult of a swap? Right? 
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May 19, 2016 03:50
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Ah jeeps.. ya cant have just one.
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May 19, 2016 03:57
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 Sup '88 Pioneer buddy!
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May 19, 2016 04:53
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:hi my name is tactical sandals and i have brain problems I had a blue 92 pioneer that looked just like that only in awful shape. I kinda wish I kept it sometimes. I did the swap. Is your ax15 the internal or external slave?
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May 19, 2016 16:44
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kastein posted:I did a 4" lift in the front of mine and 2.5" in the back since I wanted it to be leveled out. Used 4.5" Rustys leafs and a 2" cast steel lowering block (since MJs are SUA... I didn't want to use lovely alloy lifting/lowering blocks, they're known for cracking) and it was alright except the axle wrap was annoying. If I went over a bridge expansion joint with my foot on the throttle it'd hop and jerk and kick sideways a bit. I ended up taking them out and just went with the 4.5" lift and was happy with it. Are the leaf spring specs the same on the MJ and XJ? e: hurpdurp there's another page Paulie fucked around with this message at 16:49 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 16:46
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kastein posted:Whack the ujoint cap inward before you try. It doesn't take much to free it up. If it's an external-clip ujoint (driveshaft joints) you might mangle the clip with a socket doing this, but it usually helps. Inside-clip ujoints (axle joints and some older Dodge/Chevy driveshaft joints) it's easy. Dunno if this helped any but the clips popped off with minimal fuss. How important are those outer axle slinger things? I wanged one pretty hard with the minisledge getting the joints out. http://catalog.foothilloffroad.com/product_info.php?products_id=1797
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May 19, 2016 20:16
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I dunno. I've always just sorta bent them back into shape if I damaged them. The inner axle dust shields on the other hand I usually throw out along with the brake dust shields.
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May 19, 2016 20:27
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