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shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

The new T5 really tied the truck together.

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BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
Saturday, Donny, is Shabbos, the Jewish day of rest. That means that I don't work, I don't drive a car, I don't loving ride in a car, I don't handle money, I don't turn on the oven, and I sure as poo poo *don't loving roll*!

I love the sound of your truck. Something about the under 5.0L V8 crowd sounds awesome :dance:

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Ok, crisis averted. Got the new hb on and it fits tight so the old one was hosed and not the crank. I heated it up for like an hour with the heat gun and still had to press it on.

My high tack manifold fix seems to be holding up nicely so far too.

Hopefully I can get to making some forward progress instead of putting out fires.

Oh yea the battery was dead for no reason when I went to try out the new hb. Bernice is a huge bitch sometimes.

Johnny Nostrils
Feb 14, 2008

What's your T5 out of, and what ratios does it have? Did you have to do anything to get the speedometer to work?

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Its out of a S10 but I dont know the ratios. The metal tag was too rusted to see the numbers. All I have to do to make the speedo work is get the mechanical drive stuff from a TH350.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

What year S10, and any idea what engine it was behind? One of us can probably figure out the ratios with that info.

Johnny Nostrils
Feb 14, 2008

The reason I ask is because I'm thinking of doing the same thing to a 1963 Bel Air. It's got a 250, 3 on the tree, and I believe 3.08 rear end gears.

From what I've read, S10 transmissions had either 4.08 1st with 0.86 5th, or 3.76 1st with 0.72 5th. I'm leaning towards the 3.76 version just for the better OD, and less "trucky" wide ratio. I just hope it gets along with my 250, without over-revving it or bogging it down. If I do this, I won't be able to budget a rear diff change for a little while.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

some texas redneck posted:

What year S10, and any idea what engine it was behind? One of us can probably figure out the ratios with that info.

Its from a 92? I think S10 with a 2.8 or whatever 60 degree V6 they had that year. I started wire wheeling the metal tag but then I put it down and cant find it again, Im dumb.


Johnny Nostrils posted:

The reason I ask is because I'm thinking of doing the same thing to a 1963 Bel Air. It's got a 250, 3 on the tree, and I believe 3.08 rear end gears.

From what I've read, S10 transmissions had either 4.08 1st with 0.86 5th, or 3.76 1st with 0.72 5th. I'm leaning towards the 3.76 version just for the better OD, and less "trucky" wide ratio. I just hope it gets along with my 250, without over-revving it or bogging it down. If I do this, I won't be able to budget a rear diff change for a little while.

Since you already have a manual its a pretty easy swap, I think the adapter is a little different for the cars but not by much. Check out hotrodworks.com, thats where I got mine. The 5 speed will definitely be better for the 250. In mine the first gear is lower so its much less work for the engine starting out compared to the 3 speed.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Fart Pipe posted:

Its from a 92? I think S10 with a 2.8 or whatever 60 degree V6 they had that year. I started wire wheeling the metal tag but then I put it down and cant find it again, Im dumb.

Found an article claiming all 86+ S10s with a 5 speed got this version:

1st – 3.76
2nd – 2.18
3rd – 1.41
4th – 1.00
5th – 0.72

If it's a 92, it's a NWC (non world class, basically a T4 with an extra gear added). If it's 92+ it's a World Class, which seems to be a little beefier, according to this. If you can find the tag, that page also has a decoder. That tag is the only way to decode it.

edit: goddamn, Johnny beat me like a redheaded step child on that, didn't he?

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Sep 9, 2014

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Yea its definitely NWC but it was the best way to get the S10 tailshaft. If it breaks Ill find an WC Camaro box and put my tailshaft on it and then I also wont need the adapter since the input shaft on the Camaro box is shorter.

Johnny Nostrils I almost forgot you may need a Camaro trans for the shifter location. Its much farther back and in my truck it would have been in the middle of the bench seat. Check to see if anyone has done the swap on that vintage of Bel Air and where the shifter comes out. If you need any technical help I did learn a lot doing this swap so ask away.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
If you can find a measurement, even approximate, for how far back the S10 and Camaro shifter assemblies are from either the front or rear face of the bellhousing, you can just lie under your car with a tape measure, measure back, find some sort of a landmark on the floorboard (I like using the bottoms of various mounting bolts and screws since they're easier to find on both sides) and then find that same bolt/screw inside the car and decide which shifter setup you want.

Johnny Nostrils
Feb 14, 2008

That's a great point, thanks. I'm going to see if I can find those measurements before I do anything else.

EDIT:

http://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/t5-info-page.html

Now to measure on my car.

Johnny Nostrils fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Sep 10, 2014

Johnny Nostrils
Feb 14, 2008

I don't want to hijack Fart Pipe's thread any more, but here's what I found out if anyone's interested.

Based on the website I linked, I found the S10 T5 shifter location to be about 12.2" from the bellhousing face, including the adapter plate (9/16"), measured to the middle of the shifter box. The same measurement on an F-body T5, assuming it's from a V8 and doesn't require an adapter is roughly 20.75".

The victim:



S10 shifter forwards, F-body shifter rearwards. This is with the bench as far back as it goes:



Another angle:



This is a rough measurement using the trans crossmember as a reference, then I used a straightedge and some rope to translate that to the top of the floor. The forward edge of the sill plates is an okay guide for the S10 location, then I measured back from there. I could be off by 1/2" or so. These are the best I can do without actually taking the plastic floor covering out.

Based on this, I would much prefer the S10 location. With the right shifter arm, it doesn't look like I'd hit the dash or anything.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I'm just gonna hijack his thread regardless to say that he is awesome and helped out a ton with tuning the carb on my sister's 1980 datsun 720 last night. Thanks dude!

Key quotes: "what the gently caress, what pulls this stupid choke linkage down? There has to be something that does" (both of us, like a dozen times)
"This goofy ratchety cam choocher does something..." (carbs 101)
"Holy poo poo I am an idiot, the choke plate is offcenter on the shaft and the intake suction holds it open" (me, inebriated, half past midnight)
"What the gently caress, this carb is weird... what is that... ohhh it's a progressive two barrel, I see" (Fart Pipe, also known as The Carb Whisperer)

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

I thing you two were more confused drunkenly rebuilding a carb than ken I were drunkenly building a subaru motor. Subaru motors are more simple than carbs.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Johnny Nostrils posted:

I don't want to hijack Fart Pipe's thread any more, but here's what I found out if anyone's interested.

Based on the website I linked, I found the S10 T5 shifter location to be about 12.2" from the bellhousing face, including the adapter plate (9/16"), measured to the middle of the shifter box. The same measurement on an F-body T5, assuming it's from a V8 and doesn't require an adapter is roughly 20.75".

The victim:



S10 shifter forwards, F-body shifter rearwards. This is with the bench as far back as it goes:



Another angle:



This is a rough measurement using the trans crossmember as a reference, then I used a straightedge and some rope to translate that to the top of the floor. The forward edge of the sill plates is an okay guide for the S10 location, then I measured back from there. I could be off by 1/2" or so. These are the best I can do without actually taking the plastic floor covering out.

Based on this, I would much prefer the S10 location. With the right shifter arm, it doesn't look like I'd hit the dash or anything.

Thats a sweet car so hijack away! I got the shifter for mine off ebay, its just one for an S10 and it bends back nicely so it would work in your car.


kastein posted:

I'm just gonna hijack his thread regardless to say that he is awesome and helped out a ton with tuning the carb on my sister's 1980 datsun 720 last night. Thanks dude!

Key quotes: "what the gently caress, what pulls this stupid choke linkage down? There has to be something that does" (both of us, like a dozen times)
"This goofy ratchety cam choocher does something..." (carbs 101)
"Holy poo poo I am an idiot, the choke plate is offcenter on the shaft and the intake suction holds it open" (me, inebriated, half past midnight)
"What the gently caress, this carb is weird... what is that... ohhh it's a progressive two barrel, I see" (Fart Pipe, also known as The Carb Whisperer)

Haha, that choke plate. Ive never seen that setup before. I think if you or us get the valves adjusted it will help big time with getting it to run like its supposed to. Plus we should pull the plugs and cap to see what they look like. Those things shoud get rid of the skip at idle.


Slow is Fast posted:

I thing you two were more confused drunkenly rebuilding a carb than ken I were drunkenly building a subaru motor. Subaru motors are more simple than carbs.

I bet even the carb on the 28 has more parts than a Subaru engine.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Is that before or after it welds the rod bearings to the crank?

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I imagine one of his pipkins lawnmowers has more parts than a Subaru. And is more reliable!

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Fart Pipe posted:

My sister went to the Cape for the weekend so now Im up to two chihuahuas. They are seriously great dogs! I wish I had the time to get my own dog but it would be sitting at home all day when Im at work.



My sister just had to put her dog down (the one on the right) about 10 minutes ago, he had kidney failure. Sucks so bad, I loved that little guy :(

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Poor dog :( RIP

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

So I thought I posted about this before but I guess not. Ive been having problems keeping the rear oil seal on the intake manifold from blowing out and puking oil all over the back of the engine and bellhousing. I think Ive replaced it at least 4 times. I think because the engine is made up from all different year parts made the gap too small and it was squishing the gasket out. This time I took and made my own gaskets out of cork, glued it to the motor with gasket shellac and let it sit until it dried. Then I did the same thing on the manifold side. It seems to be working this time, no more oil leaks! I can finally see that the rest of the new gaskets are holding up including the rear main seal which was my biggest concern since its a super bitch to replace. There isn't one drop of oil when I park anymore and Im not driving in a cloud of smoke from the oil leaking onto the headers! :woop:

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

So I finally got plates for the 56 the other day and took it on the maiden voyage today. Its super fun to drive by holy poo poo is it slow, oh my god its so slow. I literally got passed by an 80 year old lady in a Forester while pulling away from a stop sign. Then again by an Expedition with an unknown type of driver. I love it, gently caress people that are in a hurry, should have left sooner if youre gonna be late!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I bet an Eaton M90 and the EFI system off a jeep 4.0L instead of the carb would solve that problem right quick. :unsmigghh:

Awesome that you got it running, I gotta drop by for Friday night again sometime. Been way too long. Still need brake drums for it?

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Yea definitely still need drums for it sooner or later. The current ones are fine but I gotta plan ahead.

Its not that it doesnt have enough power its the gearing. 6.16 in the rear and whatever the trans ratios are. I dont have the speedo hooked up yet since I have to find a new cable but I swear it maxes out at about 40mph. Next time I drive it Ill use the GPS on my phone to see but holy crap it CRAWLS at max speed.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

So I had my first super embarrassing moment today when I couldnt get it into gear. I was doing 25-30 mph and missed 4th going up a hill. Then as I was losing speed I couldnt get it into either 3rd or 4th with a HUGE line of commuters going home from work behind me. Once I lost enough speed I was able to get it into 2nd as I took a left onto my street. Man that sucked :blush:

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Driving the old girl around the block

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9xG_HBVkZM

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
That thing pulls away from a stop like it's a loaded-down 18-wheeler.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

6.16 gears in the back, thats full acceleration right there, haha.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Is your drivers seat really well sprung?

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Yes it is, there are no shocks in the rear with just a bunch of leaf springs so I guess they put the suspension in the seat. My friends 48 Ford pickup is the same way but he at least has shocks in the back.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
You should let the elephant out of the bed, he doesn't seem to like it much when you stop and your 0-60 50 40 times will improve.

Seriously though, awesome that you got it plated and everything and can drive the thing more than up and down the driveway! Wish I could say the same about mine.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I take it there's no chance of putting a 2 speed rear end in it then?

Also, I finally found some one that could race me in 0-50 times in my Rover.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

kastein posted:

You should let the elephant out of the bed, he doesn't seem to like it much when you stop and your 0-60 50 40 times will improve.

Seriously though, awesome that you got it plated and everything and can drive the thing more than up and down the driveway! Wish I could say the same about mine.

Yea its so great to be able to drive it on the road. Of all the things Ive worked on over the years I feel the most attached and proud of this truck just because of the massive amount of time that Ive put into it. Im looking forward to getting all the tweaking done to it like the carb and timing and especially the brakes, haha. They have been getting quieter the more I drive it but I think they still need to be adjusted and bled some more to get rid of that sound. There is also a huge vibration that I think is the driveshaft or the tires. Im getting the new tires put on on Friday and if its not that then it must be the driveshaft and Ill try turning it 90 degrees in relation to the rear end and see if that helps. Once that vibration is gone Im going to take it to my long straight test road and get it up to speed and drag the brakes a bunch of times to see if I can rebed the brake shoes and get rid of that sound.


BrokenKnucklez posted:

I take it there's no chance of putting a 2 speed rear end in it then?

Also, I finally found some one that could race me in 0-50 times in my Rover.

If I can find a 2 speed out of another truck just like it where I wouldnt have to modify much Id think about it. It was an option so they are out there. I think the next problem with taller gears would be the amount of power. Even in 4th gear it has some trouble on the hills where I really have to give it the beans to keep up the speed. That might still be the timing though, Im trying to find the balance between it starting well and having power. When the timing was advanced it would start hard but it had a ton more power. I just have to mess with it a little more to see how it goes.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
You were planning to go 12 volt anyway, crank the timing! :D

iForge
Oct 28, 2010

Apple's new "iBlacksmith Suite: Professional Edition" features the iForge, iAnvil, and the iHammer.
This is awesome and you are awesome.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

cursedshitbox posted:

You were planning to go 12 volt anyway, crank the timing! :D

We'll see. Im liking the 6 volt now that its working well but it wont take 1 or 2 times when it goes wrong to piss me off enough to change it, haha.

iForge posted:

This is awesome and you are awesome.

Thanks dude! I love this poo poo. Old trucks have this weird charm thats hard to explain.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I think the 2 speed may help you carry some speed going downhill where you might only need to go to 3 hi to crest the hill.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Yea thats true, if I had a gear between 3rd and 4th it would help a lot. The spread between 3rd and 4th is pretty big.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
A 5spd obviously would be better and I'm not sure where on earth you can find a transmission or even an adapter that would fit all that. I know you want to keep it as original as possible.

That's why I'm thinking a 2 speed rear end would be good, and at least "period" correct.

Edit: again its an awesome truck! Good work!

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Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
A Gear Vendors would be neat if you were made out of money, but I dunno what the interchange options are like on that transmission. You could try calling their gear spergs and try to work as much free information out of them as you can.

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