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Polish posted:2000 XJ. I drove it while overheating a few times too.. and it has the 0331 head. Man I've had my 2k xj for less than a week and it's already marked its territory. I think it's coolant but hard to tell, ask that's getting replaced this weekend. Oh I have the 0331 head too, which will be swapped for a Clearwater head soon.
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Sep 18, 2014 00:10
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Over the last few months I replaced my: valve cover/oil pan/oil filter adapter/transmission pan/thermostat housing gaskets, freeze plugs and rear main seal. Rear differential gasket too, when I swapped axles. Oil pressure sender as well, can't forget that. After I got them all done I started parking over a piece of clean cardboard, to see if there were any leaks. Seeing spotless cardboard underneath a 1988 Jeep is very strange. The trees are silent around my house now; no longer do they rustle with the breeze of distant mountains. Just yesterday I watched a young squirrel drop a perfect acorn and lay down to die. His body rotted to dust and blew away in mere seconds, like the fleeting glance of of a wronged lover passing by on the street. A group of white crows stand in line on my lawn and caw desperately, but there is no sound. Something isn't right; something is very wrong.
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Sep 18, 2014 01:50
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This too shall pass.  (Last time I got one of my jeeps to stop leaking everything at once, the petcock broke off the radiator and the unobtainium fuel fill neck rotted through within a week.)
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Sep 18, 2014 03:06
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Ordered a pair of 5-153X joints and one of those strap kits. Gonna try that Thor method to change them out since I really don't want to go find a press or other way to fix it. The transfercase side is a slip yoke, right? Am I going to lose some of that precious NV247 fluid when I pull it?
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Sep 18, 2014 06:03
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When you say rumble strip, do you mean sound or sensation? Do you ever get a groan or wheel hop when turning or only when on/off throttle?
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Sep 18, 2014 06:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ordered a pair of 5-153X joints and one of those strap kits. Gonna try that Thor method to change them out since I really don't want to go find a press or other way to fix it. I just put two of those into my new driveshaft the other day when I finished up my 8.25 swap, using the Thor method. I think I used a random old 1 1/4" socket and an old ~13mm socket. The hard part for me was getting both caps tapped in without jarring out any of the little pin bearings. You kind of want to get one cap in, slide the Ujoint to the opposite ear, and use it as a guide to tap in the second cap. If you've got one cap/C-clip in and are trying to tap in the 2nd cap deep enough to get the 2nd clip in, and it's not going far enough don't force it. Pull the whole thing apart and make sure the bearing pins are still in place. I got angry with the BFH and actually cracked one of the caps because there was a couple of pins that had dropped into it, preventing the UJoint from seating all the way. Luckily I had a good spare Ujoint to scavenge a cap from, otherwise it would have really sucked. For n00b idiots such as myself, I'd actually suggest using a normal framing hammer instead of a sledge - if you clean up the shaft/yoke ears it should be plenty of force. Or maybe do the hassle of borrowing a U-Joint press from OReilly's/etc, because I think that would eliminate a lot of the hammer-jarring factor that pops out the little pins. Oh, and if you get it all in and the joint is binding like I had, read back to the last page for Kastein's magical tips.
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Sep 18, 2014 06:40
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They aren't magical, I've just hosed up a ujoint install every way possible and know the signs of each If the needle bearings are tipping over on you, make sure to put plenty of grease in the caps to keep them standing. I usually fill the cap about halfway with red or green grease, use whatever floats your boat. I tap one cap in about halfway, snake the ujoint cross in and into it (trunnion goes into the opposite driveshaft ear first, then down and back into the cap you installed) and tap it in the rest of the way while holding the cross into it so the bearings stay in place. Snap the retention ring into the ear. Then lift the cross up and out of it a little (so the opposite trunnion sticks out through the opposing ear and you can get the other cap started on it before touching the hammer) put the cap on it and lightly tap it down in. I like to push the cross back and forth and turn it slightly while doing so to make sure the needles behave. Eventually it will get a little harder to tap it in and the excess grease will start leaking out the seals, this is fine, keep going. If you find it is just plain not going in more, back off and don't smash a fallen needle bearing flat... yeah I've done that too. Get the other clip in, then put the base of one ear on an anvil (if in the woods, a heavy duty offroad bumper or the ball of your trailer hitch work equally well) and give the base of the opposite ear a couple love taps to seat the caps against the clips. If it doesn't swivel freely, give it a few more. Try not to touch the machined bearing trunnions or strike against them, it severely reduces your ujoint's bearing lifespan. Oh... one last tip. If the retention clips for the old joint won't come out, put the opposite ear on your anvil or other large heavy object, then use a socket or proper size drift punch (loving big) to give the clip and cap a good solid whack. This should unseat the cap and make the clip easier to remove. Might break the clip but who cares they include 4 new ones for a reason. Be very careful to not hit the ear right where the clip goes in, the machined lip it seats in is very thin and pretty delicate, at least for a piece of forged/cast steel. If you get too hammer happy driving the old ujoint out and put some snags in the inner edges of the ujoint ears don't worry about it, use a rat tail file to take them back down. Don't file or sand the cap bores in the yoke to make the caps easier to put in, they are pressfit for a reason. I don't think anyone here would do that, but I've seen people do it without thinking about it and that's when you get to buy a new driveshaft. kastein fucked around with this message at 12:33 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 12:27
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gileadexile posted:When you say rumble strip, do you mean sound or sensation? A bit of both the sound and sensation. Haven't noticed anything unusual about turning as of yet. It nearly completely goes away at very light throttle, and is most noticeable when leaning on the gas or light braking.
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Sep 18, 2014 15:48
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Made several posts within the past year about my Jeep (96 XJ 4.0 auto) being dog poo poo slow, horrible mpg's, etc. It turned out the cat blew up and lodged the contents in my muffler. Paid to have them replaced at a muffler shop for about $400. Everything was dandy. Welp. It's sort of back, and I think it's because the thing has overheated a few times lately. I drove it from Seattle to Portland, then to the coast last month and the temp gauge was going up near the red, but never touched it. It was fine when I was moving, but while stopped and idling it would begin overheating. I've had a few instances in stop-and-go traffic where it would start getting pretty toasty. I'm getting rattling again and the cat has a torched look to it, which the muffler guy indicates damage from overheating. gently caress. I need to fix the root cause of this before dropping more money to fix the cat again. I'm also getting really, really bad gas mileage. Went through about half a tank in the last 24 hours and I probably drove 30-40 miles at the most. Should I just drain the coolant and run some sort of cleaner through the system? Or should I be replacing anything? goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 23:34
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How is it not throwing any OBD2 codes? Sounds like it's running super rich to me.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:16
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I'd say leaking fuel pressure regulator or a stuck injector. Check the regulator's vacuum line and pull your plugs to see if a certain one is wet or really sooted.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:53
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kastein posted:
Yup, swapped it out, all I broke was the barb fitting to plug the rubber hose onto. Got a new one and put it on, same issue. FYI it never gave me any codes even with the leak detection pump broken or the gas cap completely off. Only when I parked it in a river to rinse the mud out from above the skid pans did it start throwing codes. Leak detection pump was snapped off with a hole right into the charcoal can for a good 9 months with no codes. There is no logic. Well, I guess, don't wash a jeep, it breaks them.
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Sep 19, 2014 19:06
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kastein posted:If you get too hammer happy driving the old ujoint out and put some snags in the inner edges of the ujoint ears don't worry about it, use a rat tail file to take them back down. Don't file or sand the cap bores in the yoke to make the caps easier to put in, they are pressfit for a reason. I don't think anyone here would do that, but I've seen people do it without thinking about it and that's when you get to buy a new driveshaft. Or tack weld the caps in place for security. Daddy did this to the steering knuckle u joints on his JK. Thats what caused the -30* mid winter 24 hour rescue situation last year.
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Sep 19, 2014 19:17
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jonathan posted:Yup, swapped it out, all I broke was the barb fitting to plug the rubber hose onto. Got a new one and put it on, same issue. FYI it never gave me any codes even with the leak detection pump broken or the gas cap completely off. Only when I parked it in a river to rinse the mud out from above the skid pans did it start throwing codes. Leak detection pump was snapped off with a hole right into the charcoal can for a good 9 months with no codes. Your wiring harness is probably full of lovely water and shorting out somewhere just enough to piss off the ECU. What code(s) are you getting?
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Sep 19, 2014 20:22
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goobernoodles posted:Made several posts within the past year about my Jeep (96 XJ 4.0 auto) being dog poo poo slow, horrible mpg's, etc. It turned out the cat blew up and lodged the contents in my muffler. Paid to have them replaced at a muffler shop for about $400. Everything was dandy. Got a few other sensors that could throw things rich too. Coolant temp sensor helps the ECU manage fueling by adjusting injector pulse width, and I believe they typically fail to high resistance (low resistance indicates high coolant temperatures, high resistance means "gently caress this is a -40F cold start, run pig rich"). You can check the resistance across the sensor terminals when the coolant is at ambient temp - should give you an immediate indication of whether or not it's bad. Pretty sure the '91-'98 CTS had the same progression as the Renix CTS if you don't have a service manual handy. Manifold air temp sensor does the same thing. '91-'99 (maybe later?) sensor is distinct. A discontinuity in wiring for either of those would drive the ECU to go full-rich. MAP sensor could also have an effect, though probably not to that extent. edit: if you swap out the fuel pressure regulator, buy the standard/premium model of whichever brand you find, the budget ones are pretty crappy. And check to make sure that both O-rings are present - won't inject if the outer return ring is missing (ask me how I know).
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Sep 20, 2014 |
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Sep 20, 2014 17:36
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Does it not have an IAT sensor? A hosed ECT sensor should set a code if on a cold start the IAT and ECT are way out of whack.
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Sep 20, 2014 17:48
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MAT and IAT are two names for the same sensor in this case. A 96 XJ has no FPR on the rail, it is a returnless system and the FPR is built into the (unobtainium) fuel sending unit.
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Sep 20, 2014 18:21
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kastein posted:A 96 XJ has no FPR on the rail, it is a returnless system and the FPR is built into the (unobtainium) fuel sending unit.  I thought that was a '97+ thing - thanks.
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Sep 20, 2014 18:37
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I wish it was! 95, 96, 97, and 98 saw fairly extensive changes to the XJ, some of them visible to the casual observer, some not. 96 was the last year of the metal fuel tank and the first year of the returnless fuel system, among other things, so its fuel sending unit is literally 500+ dollars and only available from the dealer, if at all. It is the first thing I check on rustbelt 96s when friends consider buying them because they simply don't exist in usable condition up here. ... one of these days I really should just put together a giant gantt chart that shows exactly which parts changed on the XJ/MJ and when. Been meaning to for years.
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Sep 20, 2014 18:51
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No poo poo, I'd stick that on the wall in my garage for reference before going junking.
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Sep 21, 2014 03:30
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Took the YJ on some trails today. Wet clay on street tires might as well be ice, but it was fun sliding around and getting dirty. I think I broke something though: On the left is the front left tire. On the right is the rear left. These were close enough to even when I left this morning.
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Sep 22, 2014 00:51
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kastein posted:They aren't magical, I've just hosed up a ujoint install every way possible and know the signs of each Welp, I can definitely say I know what it feels like when some needle bearings fall over  Zero problems getting the driveshaft out, only needed a bit of penetrating oil to hammer the old joints out. They weren't worn to the point of clacking yet but they were both dry and sticky so they were definitely done for. I cannot get them in straight for the life of me, and ruined both of them in the process. Oh well, it was only a $26 lesson learned. I'll have one of the shops nearby press them in tomorrow and be done with it.
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Sep 22, 2014 03:02
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A lot of people have problems doing ujoints the first few times. Here's a video of the same method I gave: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PpR-DcRV08
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Sep 22, 2014 03:05
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Yeah, I watched that video a few times. I can get the first cap in no problem, but the second cap is where it falls apart. I've got them greased up to half depth to try and hold everything still, and I'm doing my best to balance the cross to keep a little load on both, but inevitably either the first cap or the second tosses a needle and it's hosed. I'd take another stab at it myself but I won't have much time this week for that, and my HOA will not be happy with the WJ up on stands in the driveway for a moment longer than needed. If I get the driveshaft fixed up tomorrow, I can have the driveshaft installed again in maybe ten minutes.
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Sep 22, 2014 03:12
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Great Beer posted:I think I broke something though: Nah its fine.
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Sep 22, 2014 03:30
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IOC I suppose it's a moot point if you raped the joints, but did you clean the yoke ears out real well and tap nicely with a smaller hammer? That's what finally worked for me with regards to popping out pins... Either way I agree that ujoints suck, and next time I'll either rent a press or take the shaft to a mechanic. Some things you have to prove to yourself you can do once, and after that it's pay-to-play. Edit: picked up some 3"lift Skyjacker front coils for my XJ over the weekend. I've read all the NAXJA/etc forum guides and different methods to install... I'd like to avoid pulling off the trac bar/LCA/etc, so I'm either going to rent some strut compressors from the parts store or grab a cheap HF set. Any tips? Got a new set of takeoff Rubicon front shocks to go with it. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 05:35
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 Wifey bought a replacement thingy. My only rule is that the replacement couldn't have a 42rle. and it doesn't. I'm a bit surprised at how capable these are with car tires.
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Sep 22, 2014 16:13
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cursedshitbox posted:
I had street tires on mine when I first got it and it only let me down on the harder stuff that I probably wouldn't have gotten anyway. Mine were 33's but they were still a street tire. That rubicon is going to be awesome fun!
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Sep 22, 2014 16:17
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:IOC I suppose it's a moot point if you raped the joints, but did you clean the yoke ears out real well and tap nicely with a smaller hammer? That's what finally worked for me with regards to popping out pins... I suspect that's where I went wrong, yeah. Everything was nice and clean (I do love working on AZ cars!) and I lubed it up with ATF, but I couldn't seem to get them to move at all without some more forceful taps. If for some reason I can't get it set up at a shop today I might just try using the balljoint press method. I can't believe I never came across that option beforehand 
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Sep 22, 2014 17:09
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dammit! presses are the best way to bend the ears on the driveshaft/yoke you're putting it into. There's a reason I don't do it that way, and it's because the first time I ever installed a ujoint, I bent one of the ears in maybe 1/16" at most, figured it'd be fine, bent it back out, then the second trail run I took it on the ears blew off the shaft way sooner than they should have, the shaft ends rode up on each other before I had a chance to do anything about it and it separated my balljoints, leaving me with a 3 wheeled jeep several miles from pavement. Your mileage may vary, but IMO - goddammit, don't do that unless you're better with a press than me! Hell, fill the caps 75% with grease, it won't hurt anything, just make a slightly bigger mess, and it'll give you a better chance.
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Sep 22, 2014 23:11
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kastein posted:dammit! presses are the best way to bend the ears on the driveshaft/yoke you're putting it into. There's a reason I don't do it that way, and it's because the first time I ever installed a ujoint, I bent one of the ears in maybe 1/16" at most, figured it'd be fine, bent it back out, then the second trail run I took it on the ears blew off the shaft way sooner than they should have, the shaft ends rode up on each other before I had a chance to do anything about it and it separated my balljoints, leaving me with a 3 wheeled jeep several miles from pavement. I agree with this, as someone that has also bent an ear using the ball joint press. It's just too easy to crank it too far and mess it up. Sockets and a vice is the best way I've found so far after replacing at least 10 joints, and it was the first thing Kastein recommended. Listen to Kastein.
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Sep 22, 2014 23:44
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Hey Kastein, quick question: is there a good place to order replacement terminals for the various switch harness connectors on a Jeep? I bought a 2000 TJ in June and the previous owners monkey-hosed the wiring in it. I've already pulled out a mostly unhooked security system that was half-assedly wired in with T-tap connectors and had the wiring wrapped in the goopiest electrical tape they could find, and fixed probably the worst attempt at a soldered splice I've ever seen (they cut the insulation off of a section of one wire, bent the other wire over the bare section, gooped solder onto the joint until it was a big ball, then wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape). They put some of the T-taps right up close to the switch connector for the headlights, for instance. I'm now convinced it's only a matter of time until I find a wire that needs to have a terminal come off somewhere on this poor Jeep, and I'd like to know ahead of time if it's available. Also, to the thread in general: the fuckers mounted the shock sensor for the security system to the heater ducting with a self-taping sheet metal screw. Any suggestions for plugging the hole aside from just running the screw back in and giving zero fucks?
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Sep 23, 2014 05:36
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Depends on what you have lying around. I would use HVAC foil tape or a glob of epoxy but only because I already have some sitting on the shelf. Failing that, just put the screw back in like you said. Even leaving the hole open wouldn't be a huge deal. Edit: You're talking about the plastic ductwork and not something carrying coolant, right?
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Sep 23, 2014 05:41
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Yeah, the plastic ductwork. The only part of the system they seem to have tried to mount somewhat properly, the main module was zip-tied and electrical taped up under the steering column. Short of tearing the dash apart I'd never have found the thing, but I had to replace my headlight switch and well, there it was. A definite  moment. Now I'm just trying to get it all in order and fixed.
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Sep 23, 2014 06:12
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I have used a press with good luck. But I just get poo poo fairly snug and a good whack with a hammer sets poo poo free in a hurry. YMMV
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Sep 23, 2014 12:22
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Astonishing Wang posted:I agree with this, as someone that has also bent an ear using the ball joint press. It's just too easy to crank it too far and mess it up. Sockets and a vice is the best way I've found so far after replacing at least 10 joints, and it was the first thing Kastein recommended. My wife reminded me that one of our friends works at a local shop and it's the method he ended up using. I'm not sure if my bench vise opens wide enough to get this mess in there. Oh well, got the joints in for the low low price of taking them out to dinner.
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Sep 23, 2014 13:06
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Long story short: I decided that my trashed 1991 xj is not worth repairing. Instead, I'm going to find another one to swap my parts (transfer case, suspension + axles, exhaust & bumpers mainly.) into. Am seeing several 89 and 90 that are in my price range, and few 91+. Any really compelling reason to wait for a 91 instead of a 90 other than the slight power difference with the HO motor? If it makes a difference, my t-case is a customized nv242 and would be swapping from behind one AW4 to another. Edit: apparently the output on the aw4 went from 21 to 23 splines for '91 but I have a vague memory of mine not being the size I was expecting when I last tore into it 10 years ago. MonkeyHate fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Sep 24, 2014 |
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Sep 24, 2014 01:02
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Can't get imgur to work right tonight, but I have to say this: gently caress neglectful previous owners, gently caress shady car lots, gently caress shady auctiona and gently caress whoever "repaired" my "light" rear panel body damage. Also gently caress that guy who rear ended me last year. And rust. Old leaky rust gently caress:  New hotness:  Some new rubbery round things:  gently caress all rust forever: 
gileadexile fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Sep 24, 2014 |
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Sep 24, 2014 10:10
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gileadexile posted:
You do realize those aren't the same pans, right? The old rusty one is your transmission pan and the new shiny one is your oil pan. If you're just showing off rust, that's fine. Just didn't want you to get your hopes up and try to bolt that new pan on the transmission!
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Sep 24, 2014 13:40
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Team140 posted:You do realize those aren't the same pans, right? The old rusty one is your transmission pan and the new shiny one is your oil pan. If you're just showing off rust, that's fine. Just didn't want you to get your hopes up and try to bolt that new pan on the transmission! Thanks for lookin out!  Pics got crossed up, ordered trans pan too, but it's on it's way back to Amazon because it was for the 2wd model, not 4wd.
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Sep 24, 2014 14:47
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