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spacetoaster posted:From what my grandfather told me, it's both. In order to speed up production Ford made the frames and Willys made the engines. That wouldn't be too much of a surprise depending on build date but it's more likely that it had the "other" motor put in during it's refurb. The important thing in regards to what parts you need to make it correct (sheet metal, seats, etc) are going to depend on the body. If you look at the first crossmember in the front and it's a curved tube it's an MB. If it's a stamped piece that looks like an inverted U it's a GPW.
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Dec 17, 2014 17:38
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Let's keep dreaming about things that will never ever happen.
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Dec 17, 2014 17:42
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I just hit 150 miles on my first full tank of gas in the WJ and the gas light came on. That's around 7.3mpg mostly city/combined driving. loving awful. I just ordered new upstream and downstream Denso OEM o2 sensors and a new WIX fuel filter. I also have 8 new Champion spark plugs to pop in. Other than those items, what else should I look into? The air filter is a pretty fresh K&N panel filter and tires are new and properly inflated. EPA MPG for this Jeep is 13/17, or 15 combined. Not that I'm expecting 15mpg on a 16 year old engine with 163k miles, but that shouldn't explain why I'm getting half the average. My lifted XJ on 31's got 15-16 around town on the same streets for comparison. People on various Jeep forums are reporting anywhere from 11-17 mpg city/combined and as high as low 20's highway in both stock and lifted WJs. The Jeep seems to run great mechanically, though cold startups do smell like a ton of unburnt gas is being dumped out the exhaust. IOC what are you getting in your WJ?
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Dec 19, 2014 01:29
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I had been averaging around 13mpg city and 14 highway with my 1988 Renix-era XJ. I heard higher numbers from guys online as well as kastein etc, but I figured it was just a tired old engine. I was planning a pretty deep backcountry trip with a friend and needed range, so I replaced the O2 sensor in the exhaust downpipe to see if that netted me anything. The next tank I got a whopping 10mpg city. The extended trip got cancelled, but a friend and I went out to explore a few mine roads in the far East end of Joshua Tree instead. A few days before we left, I remembered I had been wanting to clean out the notorious C101 wiring harness connector located above the brake booster on Renix XJs. The stupid thing was filled solid with some old factory dielectric grease that had hardened to the consistency of road tar. I spent 45 minutes cleaning that thing out and plugged it back in. During our overnighter with lots of camping gear, mountain passes, some mildish 4x4 and playing around in the sand I averaged 19 highway and 17 everything else. Stoked as hell right now. I guess now the sensors can actually communicate with the computer. I know you should average over more like 3 total tanks, but it's significantly better. edit: wasn't replying to your post boostcreep, you posted while I was typing 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 01:48
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BoostCreep posted:IOC what are you getting in your WJ?  Sub-14 when I do more city type driving, up as high as about 17 one time when I did a bunch of slow 55-zone highway cruising. Even my city driving is a lot of freeway, though.
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Dec 19, 2014 04:17
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Double posting. Did my first oil change on the WJ today, and despite the filter being relatively unobstructed I will still need to get a different filter wrench. Its large enough in diameter to not fit most of mine, and just hard enough to get at that my strap wrench of last resort is way too fiddly. I also spotted the start of an extremely slow coolant leak from the radiator, which is relatively new. It's leaking around this plug, and so far hasn't even leaked enough to drip any on the ground.  For reference, this is directly underneath the radiator cap, aimed straight back at the engine. Does this plug serve some purpose or am I going to snap my plastic end tank if I try to remove it to try and slap some Teflon tape or other sealant on it?
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Dec 21, 2014 01:05
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Looks like a drain (petcock!). Is that at the bottom of the radiator?
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Dec 21, 2014 06:26
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Nah, that's the top looking down. Some more Googling found this thread on JeepForum for an XJ which seems to have the exact same plug, and yes it apparently can be just unscrewed. Just need to drain the coolant down a bit and seal the fucker up, then spend forever bleeding the loving 4.7.
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Dec 21, 2014 07:30
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Even with my bad coil on number 1 cylinder I was getting around 11mpg based on the EVIC, so your mileage is definitely on the lower end of the spectrum. But if it was misfiring I'd expect a code to be thrown in addition to having absolutely NO get up and go. I usually average between 250 and 270 per tank, a bit lower in the winter of course. What are your driving habits and local temperatures?
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Dec 22, 2014 10:27
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I finished cutting the brackets off of my 8.8 and ground everything smooth. I also cut off the ears that protect the explorer speed sensor, since they get in the way of the sway bar with the TJ. I'm going to remove the sensor and make/bolt down a block-off plate. It was looking like rain so I sprayed a quick coat of flat black to keep the rust away, not that it matters since I'll have to clean it all off for welding anyway. Hopefully we get get the truss and brake lines installed over the next week or so. New shaft seals and bearings are going in tonight or tomorrow. I'm having fun, but it'll be nice to have a working jeep again. e: Will a slightly bent backing plate make it hard to install the drum brake hardware? Would I be best off replacing it?
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Dec 22, 2014 18:10
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Could a locked up brake caliper cause a death wobble in my 95yj? I had the wobble kick in at 45, pulled over, and then had the brakes start pulling on me when i got off the highway. I Replaced the caliper and now i can't replicate the steering wobble.
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Dec 22, 2014 19:50
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Chef Bromden posted:Could a locked up brake caliper cause a death wobble in my 95yj? I had the wobble kick in at 45, pulled over, and then had the brakes start pulling on me when i got off the highway. I Replaced the caliper and now i can't replicate the steering wobble. Death wobble with leaf springs? Ouch.
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Dec 22, 2014 20:27
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So my awesome wife surprised me with an awesome birthday gift today. New Trex Top NX! Pain in the rear end install, but it's freaking sweet.
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Dec 22, 2014 23:38
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 I've joined the faux wood club. I tightened my belt back up to spec, installed a brand new IAC and a speedometer cable today. I also checked that my alternator was bolted back in correctly. The speedometer worked for exactly 3.4 miles before stopping. I think the cable just fell off the back and I'll figure out a way to keep it on later.
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Dec 23, 2014 02:10
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The wood trim looks BOSS!
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Dec 23, 2014 18:25
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Astonishing Wang posted:The wood trim looks BOSS! And I basically got it for free  the gauge pack REALLY did not want to fit back into its recess when I put it back in so it's not perfectly flush at the moment. I'll have to mess with it some more this weekend.
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Dec 23, 2014 21:07
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In the middle of a gear oil change on the front Dana 30 on my WJ. I'm pretty sure the lube monkey that did this job last used an entire tube of The Right Stuff, because I had to hammer a putty knife 3/4 of the way around before it finally popped free. So much RTV everywhere, including a few big chunks inside. So glad I'm putting a Lubelocker on instead.
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Dec 24, 2014 04:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:In the middle of a gear oil change on the front Dana 30 on my WJ. I'm pretty sure the lube monkey that did this job last used an entire tube of The Right Stuff, because I had to hammer a putty knife 3/4 of the way around before it finally popped free. So much RTV everywhere, including a few big chunks inside. I got a lubelocker for my new 8.8 as well, it's going to change the game. I do enjoy applying RTV though, it's an art.
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Dec 24, 2014 17:18
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Having completed the job - I really really wish they made a lubelocker for the D44A. Hardest part by far was switching the various combinations of sockets, extensions, and adapters to get my torque wrench on every bolt while clearing all of the various linkages. I'd replace every transmission pan and differential cover gasket I have with one if I could, but the only one of mine they cover is the D30.
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Dec 24, 2014 19:25
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I'm pretty sure the head gasket went in the 2000 xj I bought like 3 weeks ago. It had a rough idle on startup but would even out and purr after about 30 seconds and a miss on cylinder 5 for the last week. Then tonight I'm driving home, no power and poo poo lovely idle. Pop tge hood and there's antifreeze everywhere and antifreeze smoke Rollin. Merry loving Christmas I guess
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Dec 25, 2014 01:26
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Hopefully it's just the HG and you didn't crack the head 
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Dec 25, 2014 02:45
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BoostCreep posted:Hopefully it's just the HG and you didn't crack the head Its a 2000 with the 0331 casting. Its cracked, and even if its not replace it with a tupy or 0630 head when you do the headgasket anyway.
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Dec 25, 2014 04:17
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I have a presumed good head on my parts jeep but it's pre coil on plug. Aren't there some tapped bosses for the cool rail?
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Dec 25, 2014 04:26
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If you go 0630 you need to do some stuff. - coilpack mounting brackets, or convert to a 6 post viper coilpack - something to make the exhaust manifold match the 0630 head ports. There are a few options on the last point. If it is a 2000 with federal emissions and no precats you can switch to 0630, drop a 91-99 manifold and downpipe on it, and do a little custom exhaust pipe work to mate it to the catcon. If it is a 2000 california emissions, you are in CARB compliant hell, or 2001 any emissions system, you can swap to the 0630 and use an adapter plate that makes the ports match, or just grab a TUPY 0331 off any 02.5-04 WJ and slam it on there. You can also get any new production 0331 compatible cylinder head from odessa/clearwater cylinder heads/hesco/whoever you want, if you like spending money. (The 0331 TUPY is the fastest easiest way, really. I recommend it)
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Dec 25, 2014 05:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd replace every transmission pan and differential cover gasket I have with one if I could, but the only one of mine they cover is the D30. It's not lubelocker exactly, but Chrysler/mopar/whoever started making replacement transmission pan gaskets in that style for a lot of their models a while ago. The one I picked up for my 46RE went in last week without a problem, and seems to be holding up great. Dealerships apparently carry / can order them, but I got mine from an Amazon seller for decently cheap. And Prime free 2-day shipping on jeep parts is pretty awesome.
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Dec 25, 2014 10:14
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Wifey's TJ started making some awesome howling noises from the trans the other day. Not really knowing who or what went bad we picked up a clutch kit for it and input bearings for the trans. http://imgur.com/a/edWOd yeah the pilot bearing was so fuckt i had to unbolt the pressure plate in situ and remove it with the trans. Fuuuuuck jeeps are a pain in the dick to work on.
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Dec 26, 2014 02:55
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Tadhg posted:It's not lubelocker exactly, but Chrysler/mopar/whoever started making replacement transmission pan gaskets in that style for a lot of their models a while ago. The one I picked up for my 46RE went in last week without a problem, and seems to be holding up great. Ive read about those, and I suspect that they have similar construction. But, Mopar only makes them for the 42RE and related transmissions. As far as they're concerned the 545RFE is RTV only. Thankfully aftermarket gaskets exist, they're just typical rubber ones. Did the gear oil on the rear D44A today. Took even more hammering than the front one. Plus, there was enough oil hiding out after an hour plus of drain time to ruin the Ultra Black, so I had to go grab a can of Right Stuff instead. So far, no leaks.
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Dec 29, 2014 01:52
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My Cherokees smell has been described as "tools or oil or something and hockey equipment". Guess I should clean it out tomorrow.. and finish installing the one shock I have left to do.
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Dec 30, 2014 00:25
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Polish posted:My Cherokees smell has been described as "tools or oil or something and hockey equipment". Guess I should clean it out tomorrow.. and finish installing the one shock I have left to do. Have you checked for dead Canadians in the back?
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Dec 30, 2014 03:44
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Whoever designed the vacuum and emission system in 4.2L YJs can eat the largest bag of dicks. Multiple smaller bags will also be acceptable. If I don't need to pass emissions, is ripping out basically everything except the brake, 4wd, and distributer vac lines going to break anything?
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Dec 30, 2014 08:42
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Great Beer posted:Whoever designed the vacuum and emission system in 4.2L YJs can eat the largest bag of dicks. Multiple smaller bags will also be acceptable. If I don't need to pass emissions, is ripping out basically everything except the brake, 4wd, and distributer vac lines going to break anything? Probably not. A lot of it is linked to the e-carb system which can be replaced with a traditional carb or lived with using an ignition bypass.
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Dec 30, 2014 13:07
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Sandbagger SA posted:Probably not. A lot of it is linked to the e-carb system which can be replaced with a traditional carb or lived with using an ignition bypass. Awesome. I ripped out most of it today and I think I got it hooked up right. Doing vacuum line work based off of internet MS Paints seems like it could end badly but whatever. This site was crazy helpful in identifying what all the little bits stuck around the engine bay were. It looks so much nicer now that there isn't an octopus orgy under the hood.
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Dec 30, 2014 23:32
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Hey everyone ... I've been trying to track down a high idle (1000rpm) that started a couple weeks ago. There was no work done on the vehicle leading up to the start of this symptom, and no events - I didn't take it offroading or through water or anything like that. The high idle ONLY happens in Park and Neutral - I'm not sure if this is related or if the load in gear is simply lowering the engine speed. After about a week of high idle, I got a P0121 (TPS voltage) error. Replaced the TPS, error went away, no change. Autozone (and various googling) suggested cleaning the throttle body, tried that, it's spic and span, no change. Googling "cherokee high idle in park" came up with the IAC valve, swapped that for a new one (it was grimy), no change. Edit: Oh yeah! I did the smoke test, no vaccum leaks that I can discern. I'm a bit lost at this point - any ideas? I know that some Jeeps had a switch which engaged high idle (police package?) but mine is NOT equipped with this. About the vehicle: 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4 door, 4WD, 4.0L inline 6 Automatic transmission Stock engine and transmission, except for transmission cooler installed ~3.5" lift, 8.8 rear axle, HP30 front axle, 4.10 gears, 33" tires I can't imagine anything else that is related (and I doubt some of that is), but I'm happy to answer questions if I missed something. Here's a picture of the Heep in question on the Golden Crack: http://i.imgur.com/6tHSprc.jpg I'd appreciate any help. Thank you! Astonishing Wang posted:e: Will a slightly bent backing plate make it hard to install the drum brake hardware? Would I be best off replacing it? Am I reading this wrong, or are you putting drum brakes in with the 8.8? That sensor you're hacking off the top (or, rather, the opening for it) is a great spot for a fill plug. I did the same on mine even though I didn't have a clearance issue. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 00:04
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So uh...who's going to be the first to try out Edelbrock's new aluminum head on their 4.0 and post results? 
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Dec 31, 2014 01:12
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If I had the cash I'd be in line.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:24
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Am I reading it right or is that head two bills?
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Dec 31, 2014 01:52
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Where do you see that? Last I heard they hadn't released a price yet. I wazs expecting something like 1500.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:56
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I can't find it for sale anywhere at this point, but I wouldn't be surprised. You could build a hell of a super/turbocharged stroker with that, but I sure wouldn't spend the money for it on a stock motor or even a warmed over motor.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:56
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Horse Divorce posted:Where do you see that? Last I heard they hadn't released a price yet. I wazs expecting something like 1500. http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/cylinder-heads/44115/aluminum-jeep-cylinder-head-hesach Just noticed, it's the wrong head. Don't mind me, I'm loving retarded.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:57
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Krakkles posted:Hey everyone ... This happened to me once with my XJ - started it up one morning and it was idling at like 1500 RPM. I drove it off figuring it would calm down but it didn't, which made for a very interesting first stoplight on cold brakes. I pulled over immediately, parked, turned it off, and it never did it again. Who knows. I did a lot more reading into idle RPM later on, trying to get mine to stop stumbling/seeking. I remember reading a pretty good breakdown of how the system interprets the various sensors and how it translates to idle. It was on one of the big Jeep forums, so I'm sure you can find it. I ended up replacing most of the sensors as well with no luck. Finally I did the Bosch 703 fuel injector swap and cleaned out my C101 harness connection: now it idles smooth as hell. That's a RENIX connector though. Have you tried straight disconnecting your battery? The RENIX jeeps don't have memory but yours does. Glad to see you got the 8.8 in! So the last two trips I've taken I've ended up bending my front swaybar links progressively worse each time, so I think disconnects are in order. I'm planning on the JKS 2002 Quicker Disconnects. Anyone think otherwise? The Rough Country/Zone/RE versions look chintsy to me, and Skyjacker uses a different connection method that seems janky.
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Dec 31, 2014 02:44
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