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Scanned a few pages of the thread, then realized there was no way I could read it all and still have some semblance of a lie/work. I lucked int a $600 '95 XJ SE, 2 wheel drive, 2.5L, 5-speed. 223K miles. No rust that I can see (thank God I live in Texas - you northerners deal with poo poo I wouldn't even bother to scrap...) Front bumper was bent (already replaced that - pain, as the frame rails were bent, too), air bag deployed, and the driver's door has been replaced at some point (obvious non-factor welds on the door hinges, and stress cracks on the B-pillar around the latch. A few other small dents and dings, but overall pretty clean. All one color, which is more than I can say for any of my other cars. From reading here, I gather than I doubly lucked out with the '95, as opposed to other years, save the '99. Sweet. Already have an eBay "real gauges" dash cluster on the way, and my tilt column with trim and undeployed airbag just came in. Super-awesome bluetooth head unit in, and speakers on the way (was still all factory AM-FM, 2 door speakers!) Needs a good wash and wax, and the seats and carpets cleaned, and it'll be very nice, albeit base model. Speaking of seats, the PO put in seats from a 4-door, possibly a GC. they only fold forward to a straight-up position, which makes it a pain to get into the back seat. Anything that can be done about that, or am I stuck with finding a set of 2-door seats and having them reupholstered if needed? My first Jeep: 
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Mar 13, 2013 22:25
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OneOverZero posted:Oh man, that looks clean. It is clean - remarkably so. Evne the carpets jst need a good cleaning, except where someone never installed floor mats in the driver's side. There's a hole there. I'll see what I can do with the seats - I found a thread on one of the Jeep forums claiming that the actual hinge/reclining bracket can be swapped from 2-door seat to 4-door seats (GC seats, in the thread example,) so I'll see what I can find. Only shots I have for the interior at the moment are these:   (Doncha love that steering wheel cover?) Mine is a 4-banger, so I assume I'm immune to the head-cracking issue.
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Mar 15, 2013 17:52
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kastein posted:Agreed, though a 99 wouldn't have an 0331, XJs only had those in 00-01. Good to know about the cause of the cracking issue - from what I've found for info, the ones with TUPY cast into the head are the good ones that replaced the lovely castings. Now that I look at it and think about it, I think you're right. The door and hinges match the truck perfectly. They also didn't weld them back in exactly the right position - the shut line at the front is a bit close (looks like the body line rubbed, too) and the rear gap is too big. I'll need to shim the door back about 1/8" or so. Handy link. Saved - thanks! I wonder if the light dent in the door is from it falling off? 
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Mar 15, 2013 18:09
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The extra long, extra heavy doors on the 2-door models only made the issue worse.
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Had my Cherokee washed, clay barred, buffed, and waxed. The shampooed the carpets and seats, too. I thought the thing looked pretty good before. Now it's all shiny, and I don't know what to do with myself - I've never owned a shiny car before, excepting the wife's ride.  Lookit! Reflections!  Threw in new component speakers in the front to go with the new head unit, and started on fitting 6x9s in the liftgate. Might put a compact sub in there eventually, but that's it. It's my daily, so I want decent sound, but no need for a competition system. It is still going to be used as a truck, after all. Tilt column and unblown airbag in the garage, and a real gauges dash on the way. Next: center console (man I hate not having an arm rest and
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Mar 18, 2013 23:26
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mattfl posted:Looks like it's missing the black trim on the one side. That is indeed the case, and I actually noticed it for the first time when I posted those pictures. No sign the rub strip was ever on the passenger side. Who knows what goes through previous owners' minds? You might also note the tape on the driver's side strip. The very end was loose, and the car wash reattached it. Today, I found myself researching OEM Jeep wheels, and similar aftermarket aluminum wheels, even though I actuall like the steelies that are on it. Maybe just trim rings? Though I really like the Wrangler 5-hole "Gambler" wheels, among others.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:16
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Sharp_angus posted:Your year XJ would look awesome with the "Eliminator" style wheels. I had a friend with those on his XJ but I think they're older MJ wheels. The soft 8's are nice, but I'm looking for something else. Plus, 2x4, so going for a more street-ish look. Not sure those would look as good without the beefy off-road tires. Probably end up with some LT M&S tires on there eventually. Passenger car tires on it now. I do intend to use it as a truck, just not very far off-road. Eliminators are the 10-hole aluminum wheels, right? Those, I like, particularly the ones with the rivets. I like a lot of the Jeep factory wheels, actually. I spotted a Comanche on the road the other day, white, with what looked like the full Pioneer trim, and the spoked wheels that kind of look like turbines. Really nice shape. Had a '97+ front header panel on it, too. commissargribb, which Explorer wheels do you have - there are a lot of them. I did spot some Ranger/Explorer wheels that look similar to the Jeep 10-hole ones. Those, I like. Before I start messing with the wheels, though, I need to do all the fluids and filters, spark plugs, and such. I think the PO maintained it well enough, but I want to make sure it's all done, and give myself a start dat for the next time it needs to be done. Which reminds me, it has one issue that's mildly annoying: it sifts fine, and the clutch feels like it's engaging in the right place, about half-way through the pedal travel, but if I try to change gears when the vehicle is stopped but running, it's tough to get it into gear, even if the clutch has been disengaged for some time. Reverse grinds. I gather that te trans is still spinning, so either the clutch isn't disengaging all the way, or the pilot bearing is binding. Any opinions? I still need to flush and bleed the clutch, so that may help, but I'm not optimistic.
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Mar 27, 2013 01:13
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commissargribb posted:
Those look good. I believe I know what the center caps look like, and I agree. For those looking at Soft 8s, Summit has a house brand version that's cheap: http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/summit-racing/product-line/summit-racing-85-black-8-series-wheels They also have these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/summit-racing/product-line/summit-racing-164-series-polished-wheels  which appear to be a replica, or possibly the continuation of the Ultra Wheels 164. I absolutely love these, and not bad at $107 each in 15x8. The Ion 171 looks pretty much the same, and is in the same price range.
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Mar 27, 2013 19:42
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Added a little something appropriate to my Cherokee: Really need to repaint that bumper and end-cap. Also added a mascot:  If you're a Jeep owner, and you don't know who/what this is, shame on you!
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Apr 5, 2013 17:15
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EightBit posted:Most of us are probably too young to have ever heard of Popeye, let alone the Jeep. Is it only me that reads everything about a vehicle when they buy one? I mean, I knew this already, but it's in several articles. Ah, well. It amuses me, at least. Also, does anyone else see the my pics as upside-down? They were fine when I posted from my PC, but the Awful iPad app is showing them as wrong way around. Edit: no comments on the 2.5L sticker? I thought it was funny, but I'm easy to amuse...
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Apr 5, 2013 20:22
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thvwlshvscpd posted:I snickered when I saw it. I remember my 2.5L Comanche being painfully slow. I miss that truck and wish I never got rid of it. Even though it was only 2WD I loved driving it as a first vehicle. Pffff, my daily before I bought the Cherokee was an FCC RX-7 NA, all 160-ish HP and 0 torque of it. Before that it was a '79 RX-7. 100 screaming HP, and not a whole lot lighter than the Jeep, I think. I seem to recall reading that the Cherokee is remarkably light. I'm getting 19-20 MPG in the Jeep, and it goes well enough, so I can live with it. If the engine pops, though, it's getting a 5.3 LSx truck motor. Thing managed to haul about 800 pounds of potting soil and bark the other day without complaining too much. Wasn't even on the bump stops! I'm really starting to like the little bugger. e: the 5-speed makes the 4-banger more tolerable, too, I think. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Apr 5, 2013 |
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Apr 5, 2013 21:08
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thvwlshvscpd posted:^^8. I'd love to have a postal Jeep one day and a stroker sounds pretty cool. I might be an idiot though and listen to one of the more veteran Jeep guys weigh in. I like EFI, so 4.0 HO or 4.2 HO would be my choice, if not for the ridiculously cheap power that is an LSx. Probably get the same or better mileage than the 2.5L... Clifford only seems to have the intake, any more. Couldn't find cams or exhaust in their current catalog. I could be I fail at reading, though. Professor Awesome posted:on a scale of 1-10, 10 being The Best Idea and 1 being wanting to hit myself in the dick with a hammer That really made me laugh quite a bit. Thanks for that. As for the idea - sounds cool, but I have no idea how difficult it would be. Never worked on a classic/fullsize Jeep before. 4x4 mail Jeep could be awesome.
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Apr 5, 2013 23:29
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EightBit posted:Drunk me took a hose to it anyway. Everything works except the radio, which is slowly coming back to life as it dries out. I wouldn't be too bummed about losing the radio, it stopped playing CDs before I bought it and has no bluetooth or aux in. Next time, if there is one, disconnect the battery before hosing it down. Let it dry as much as possible before reconnecting the battery. It usually requires power + water to blow up electronics (corrosion aside.) Cross-posting from the What Did You Do To Your Ride thread: I fixed my oil pressure gauge. After testing the gauge and wiring by grounding it (it swings to zero when grounded with 0 Ohms,) and verifying that the OP sender was actually at ground with the engine off, it turned out that the terminal inside the Weatherpak connector had managed to scoot up inside the housing, so it wasn't making contact. Fixed that, and I have an oil pressure reading. Also replaced the temp sender, since it was mostly shorting to ground. Thank you O'reilly's warranty. I had to fix the odometer on my new gauge cluster. I managed to bugger the spur gear between the tenths and ones when resetting it to match my old cluster's mileage. It would get stuck every third time around, so I swapped it with the gear between the 10K and 100K, set so the problem spur had just passed so I don't have to worry about it for over 200K miles more. Let's see... Put in new steel battery terminals to replace the crapped up lead ones that were in there, and installed a battery hold-down to keep the battery from wandering around the engine compartment. Also added a can of 134a to the AC, and was amazed when it started cooling down to 45 degrees (80 degrees out, fairly high humidity.) Then I think I added too much, because the compressor started cycling too much, and staying mostly off. May need to take it to a shop just so they can recover the 134a and start from vacuum with the proper amount. Had a look at the clutch hydraulics to see about bleeding it, and was astounded that both the master and the slave are plastic! And no sign of a bleeder. Will need to consult the manual. I'm getting a clunk under certain conditions from the front end, feels like it's right under my feet. I'm assuming that's the 200K-mile control arm bushings signalling for replacement, so that's on the to-do list now. Any words of wisdom on that job? BTW, I was amused at the cheap, clever bastards at Jeep and how they went about creating a 2-wheel-drive Cherokee. A straight-axle? Really? No, I didn't know they did that 'til I bought this one. Makes it relatively easy to convert to $WD if I want to, I guess.
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Apr 15, 2013 04:47
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Who's loving cheap-rear end brain-dead idea was it to use a non-serviceable, non-bleedable, replace-as-an-entire unit PLASTIC clutch master and slave cylinder setup on the later Cherokees? I don't know about you guys, but when I buy a used car I flush and fill all the fluids for peace of mind. You can't do this for the clutch on my '95 Cherokee. There's no bleeder, and the line between the master and slave is permanently attached. According to the manual, the master and slave come prefilled, and you just install them. No adjustment on the linkage, either, as far as I can tell from the manual. I guess sine they are plastic, there's no rust issues, and possibly less wear on the seals, but what about water in the fluid? Are all the Cherokees this way, or just the Chrysler ones? Looking at Rock Auto, it appears that you can get a metal master with bleeder, and slave, and lines. But then you have to buy all three. It's not really a problem right at the moment, clutch seems to be working OK, though I do have a problem getting it into gear with the engine running and the vehicle stationary. The tranny appears to be spinning enough to make it difficult to get into gear. I'm thinking the pilot bearing is dragging rather than a problem with the clutch. That means that the tranny has to come out, so I'll leave that for a bit longer, and probably change out the disc and throwout at the same time.
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Apr 16, 2013 16:02
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commissargribb posted:whichever one I bought was the lovely non-bleedable one. Guess I'll leave it for now. And yeah, I've had good luck with Rock Auto. On to flushing and bleeding the brakes this weekend, I suppose. And changing the trams and rear end fluid. Coolant looks good - a nice bright green. AC sorta works, too. I think I overcharged it. It was working great at 45 deg F on an 80 degree day, then I added about more and now the compressor is cycling a lot. Meh. May need to take it to a professional with the right equipment. For one thing, there appears to be a plug or cap in the high side fitting, so I couldn't tell what the high side was doing. Also, when did 134a get so damned expensive? $15/can!
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Apr 16, 2013 23:30
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Astonishing Wang posted:There are dash kits that fill in the second DIN location with a little cubby-hole kind of thing where you can stash your phone or whatever. Sorry, I didn't notice that it was a double DIN. Yeah you shouldn't have any problem finding a wiring harness that will make it super easy. Yeah, usually the aftermarket figures out new cars pretty quickly. Chances are there is a dash kit and wiring harness adapter for aftermarket stereos for your vehicle. On an unrelated not, I found this at lunch last week:   Pretty f-ing cool.
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Apr 17, 2013 20:29
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BrokenKnucklez posted:So good off road, it drives upside down! I have no idea why every picture I post from my iPhone does that. It looks fine on the computer, until I upload it to the web. Must be some weird metadata or something. Should be fixed now.
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Apr 18, 2013 06:49
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Mine came with a Torin hydraulic bottle jack under the seat. I have no idea if it's tall enough. Guess I better find out. I already had to break the pivots on the mechanism free. Apparently someone spilled water in the back and soaked that area - rusted the jack. Fortunately, PBBlaster did the trick. My only other concern is the little round top on the bottle jack versus the saddle on the factory jack.
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Apr 19, 2013 00:00
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kastein posted:You know what else is odd? Darchangel, I did a clutch/transmission/crossmember replacement and frame rail repair on a 94 YJ yesterday, and the slave cylinder that came with the salvage transmission I put in has a bleeder valve. Checked, and so does the one on my MJ that came with a used transmission. I don't know who makes it but will check in a bit. I did notice that some of the ones on Rock Auto, typically the cast iron (or at least metal) ones had bleeders in the pictures. Assuming the pictures are correct. I noticed the roll-pin hydraulic line retention on those as well. I didn't see that on mine, so either the factory unit (assuming mine is the original piece, or an OEM replacement) is a one-piece assembly, or I didn't look closely enough, which is entirely possible. I just wanted to flush an fill the thing to make sure my shifting issue at rest wasn't the clutch, and for general peace of mind.
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Apr 19, 2013 18:51
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Godholio posted:^ I actually bought a SBC short block for mine, but didn't get around to finishing it. Geeze, man. What year was that? My '95 Cherokee has 130 HP, and that's enough for 80-85 MPH. Not sure on mileage. I got 19 on the first tank, the second tank my odometer was stuck (buggered it up resetting the mileage when I did the gauge swap - fixed now) and the third tank will also be off for the same reason. Yeah, I'd love the have the 4.0, not to mention more options (base-model SE, here. AC is about the only option on it. Not even a cargo light in the rear!) but it was $600, and in really good shape. Did the earlier 2.5s really have that little power? If the 2.5 dies, I'd love to put a 3800 SC in there... and promptly blow the AX5, as Kastein points out.
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Apr 22, 2013 06:03
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kastein posted:rockauto... rocks. Simply put. Unless it all comes from four different warehouses, and you end up paying shipping separately from all four warehouses...
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May 8, 2013 19:21
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I was going to comment on the "hot air intake" but it sounds like you're aware of it already. My '95 has the stock airbox, but for some reason the hole in the core support where fresh air would come in is blocked by a factory-looking plate. Why the hell would they do that? Need to pull the grill and left headlight and get that off there, maybe find or build a short duct to it from the airbox. In other news, I obtained a set of GC seats at ye olde junqueyarde, and swapped in the flip forward hinges I also found at the junkyard, along with Cherokee bases. Currently, they are disassembled after stripping the upholstery and washing it. Weekend project to put them back together and in the Jeep to go with the console. Then on to refurbishing the overhead console I found. Hopefully the compass/temp on it works. Found a set of Gambler 5-hole Wrangler rims on Craigslist for cheap that I will hopefully buy this weekend. At some point I should stop spending money on my $600 Cherokee, but it's so much fun fixing and upgrading everything!
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May 31, 2013 23:06
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Installed my modified Grand Cherokee seats. Later ZJ seats with 2-door Cherokee Classic hingges, for the flip forward utility:
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Jun 4, 2013 21:28
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Nuts. The perfect leather '94-5 GC steering wheel I found may not work in my '95 Cherokee. It's identical, except it lacks an arming mechanism for the "mechanical" airbag in the regular Cherokee. Need to look closely at the original wheel and see if that mechanism can be transplanted. Hopefully, it's just an add-on to the wheel. Or not worry about the airbag, I guess. I hope it does. I got some leather cleaner/treatment on that wheel and it looks very nice. Also tested the OEM digital clock and overhead console I grabbed from the JY, and they both appear to work. Need to get a temp sensor next time I go back.
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Jun 6, 2013 18:59
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DrPain posted:A customer of mine is the original owner of a very stately 1990 Cherokee Wagoneer with a cool 270k original miles and a stack of registration stickers about 1/2 inch thick. That's awesome. Too bad we don't use plate stickers her in TX any more. I found a nice set of Wrangler Gamblers on Craigslist for $130. Tires are bald, but that was stated in the ad.  Just posed in front of the car. I have to wait for the current tires to wear out now... E: also realized I need to get the heat gun out and remove what remains of the rub strip, since there isn't one on the other side.
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Jun 7, 2013 22:28
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Wow. I may have to try your disc brakes and LSD on a 4-cyl axle trick, just because. he only real question I have after the last couple of posts is: what spline axles should I be looking for in a Dakota, if that's what I find? You say that 96-older are 27 spline, and 97-up are 29, but which is the XJ? I need to stick my head under my '95 and see which rear I have, I guess. I honestly don't know (yet.)
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Jun 13, 2013 00:37
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Sweet, thank you. That'll go in my notes for future use. Still new to the Jeep thing.
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Jun 13, 2013 21:00
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Veeb0rg posted:Same axle/ year I have. Good thought. Looked under the Jeep this evening, and after cleaning up, found I appear to have a 4.10:1 8.25 built in 1994:   'Course now that I've got one spot clean under there, I want the whole thing clean...
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Jun 27, 2013 04:03
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Chriskory posted:
Nice, I like that color. A gauge swap to the full gauge package is pretty easy. It's pretty much the first thing I did on my '95 SE. There are a few different cluster types, so do a little research, but every Jeep forum has a tech article on swapping them. Basically: it's pull the old lame idiot light cluster, put in fabulous all gauges cluster, then swap the oil pressure and temperature senders. No wiring changes at all. Neat thing about my '95: it's pretty much wired for every option. All I have to do is add them. Already added the rear cargo light - it just plugged in. Added the under-dash courtesy lights - they plugged in. Rear speakers - yep, though I put 6x9s in the hatch, so I had to run the wires out there. My year used the sound bar on the ceiling stock. I plan on adding cruise control, delay wipers (already have the switchgear and clockspring - came with a tilt column I bought and installed) underhood light, driving lights (got 'em with a replacement bumper) and overhead console. These things are sort of like Legos - all modular and plug and play.
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Jun 27, 2013 04:39
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kastein posted:You are correct, that is an 8.25, and your 4.10 estimation is likely right as well, given the 4cyl/5speed drivetrain and 4.1 tag on the cover bolt. There were certainly enough XJs in my favorite yard. Probably Daks, too. I will need to go back to the yard and get the rest of the harness. I was in a hurry and cut it at the top of the A-pillar. Mind you, I can make my own, I would prefer to use the factory stuff if possible. Might even get the lighted sun visors, too, since the harness includes power feeds for them, too. At the moment, I've got no headliner - POs pulled it, didn't even leave the backer board - so no problem there. I just need to grab the headliner shell from one with a OHC, or just cut holes. As it happens, my OHC has been un-upholstered as well, so will need to be sure to get enough material to cover that, too. Reminds me that before I do the headliner, I need to get a roof rack, too. I think someone else just asked the question: how do you seal the riv-nuts? Chewing gum and lots of faith? I'm thinking a bit of epoxy on the underside would work, and keep them from loosening. Must use blind ones, I guess, or sealant on the bolts. Er. Maybe I should just go with a drop-rail mount.
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Jun 27, 2013 23:15
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kastein posted:I'd probably use RTV. I'd just either add a pigtail with common Molex, Weatherpak, or Deutch connectors, or just whack the factory connectors off entirely and replace them, rather than find OEM stuff, if it came to that. Actually, I'm more likely to just solder directly to the existing wires just past the connectors, and then cut wires if I have to pull anything back out (unlikely.) Moot point, though - I don't think I'll have a hard time finding them. Though if I'm going to go to the effort, I guess I'd better look at what I've go and make sure I get ones that match. Not sure if they changed over the years.
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Jun 27, 2013 23:39
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User Error posted:This is Sportruck: Good luck with that conversion. I may be doing that to my XJ some day. I'd be interested in some of the left over bits from the two door XJ. My '95 is a super-base model SE that I'm slowly upgrading. OneOver called dibs first, but I'd also be interested in those fancy-dancy door panels if he doesn't get them. I'm definitely interested in the power window/lock door handle surrounds and switches (with plugs and a few inches of wire - the driver-side one is unique to the 2-door), and the power window regulators and motors (though I think these are interchangeable with 4-ddors.) Maybe the metal inside trim above the side windows, if the paint is good. I have a set of the trim that I painted, but it doesn't quite match the grey plastic. Yours might not either, if they changed shades over the years, but? Also, hang on to those seats if you don't put them in the Comanche. Flip-forward 2-door seats are hard to find. I can't tell which one's those are, but the regular seats, you can swap the flip-forward hinge onto 4-door seat to make them flip-forward. There's a version that doesn't work on though - they look sportier and have a different hinge and don't recline all the way back. And just to contribute, I saw this old boy in the parking lot at Home Depot when I was out getting some paint, and had to take a picture with it:  It looked to be in good shape.
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Jul 3, 2013 19:45
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User Error posted:Here's the interior, let me know if you want anything: Looks like someone already got all the 2-door unique rear interior bits, except those metal pieces above the windows (which don't appear to match any better than my self-painted ones.) All that trim and side panels rearward of the doors besides the liftgate panel is 2-door only stuff. B-pillar trim and sill plate are unique, too. You might be able to sell some of it on eBay. If you feel like messing with it, I'd part with some cash for the door panels with arm rests (mine are all vinyl, with a simpler arm rest, and basic speaker grille) and the inside door handles with power window and lock switches. Need the plugs and at least a few inches of wire for the switches, too. Hell, if you feel ambitious and are just scrapping the thing, it should be easy to pull out the whole door wiring harness - should plug in just inside the kick panel. Let me know what how much $$ you'd want for that, and I'll see if I can swing it. Unsure what the going rate is - 2-door stuff is harder to find, and I haven't looked hard for that stuff yet, or have only seen base SE stuff. Shipping might be a bear for the door panels - kinda big. I understand if you don't want to mess with it. I don't suppose you're in North Texas by any chance - I'd be happy to pull the stuff myself, and help put the stuff you want to keep in the MJ. Definitely put the buckets and console in the MJ. Depending on which seats they are, it shouldn't be too hard to find tan upholstery to match what's already in the MJ, and the console can me dyed, or swap all the grey stuff into the MJ. Buckets without the console suck - nowhere to put your elbow. Had to put one in my XJ. Ozmiander posted:Real Cherokees itt. Hey, now!
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Jul 5, 2013 03:56
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New decal for the Cherokee. I thought it appropriate, particularly with the four-banger. 'Course, now I'm thinking about installing a rear-defroster glass, so I'll have to replace the stickers I've put on there so far...
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Jul 16, 2013 21:53
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No poo poo on the Cash for Clunkers sticker. Going to the local wrecking yard in the midst of that just made me ANGRY. Better cars than anything I was currently driving then, and possibly now, all over the place.
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Jul 18, 2013 00:51
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commissargribb posted:By reg in Maine, no treaded portion of the tire should protrude past the flare. 2" is actually more than we get. What I find ridiculous is that it's limited to 2" beyond the OEM fender line, rather than a max overall width. Putting flares or wider fenders somehow isn't good enough. fps_bill posted:Anyone know which side the body harness runs down on a cherokee? I have a feeling it runs down the drivers side which may make things interesting tomorrow when I get to plaz out rusty metal and weld in new. Yup, it's on the driver's (left) side. It stays on the floor/sill along the doors, then moves up over the wheel well, and mostly stays just below the window at the rear.
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Jul 27, 2013 03:19
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BlazinLow305 posted:I drove my Jeep to the store today to get some gas. The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking at all, and it didn't try to run hot or anything. I've got an extra two gallons in the back in case the 2 I put in didn't get all the air out. I'd say the left caliper was still stuck, possibly dragging, and the pull to the right you feel is the right brake being the only working one. Had something similar happen on my '70 Cutlass a few years ago.
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Aug 7, 2013 21:31
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Whelp, looks like at least part of my clutch/shifting problem was a failing release bearing. Got to work this morning and noticed a squeal when I parked. Made a note to check the serpentine belt, thinking it was something to do with that. After work, noted that the squeal only happened when I put in the clutch... and that the engine speed dropped 100 RPM at the same time. Lovely. Interestingly, I have no problem getting it into first when stopped now. Just ordered the clutch kit from Rock Auto. I can't wait to see what a mess is in there. Pictures when I get the trans dropped. I am not looking forward to changing this bitch in 100+ degree Texas heat - I was really hoping to hold of until, say, late September.
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Aug 15, 2013 07:07
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Cross-posting from "what I did today" thread: Finished pulling the transmission out of the Cherokee to replace the failed, screeching release bearing.  Yep, it failed.  Those two balls are the only bearings I found in the bellhousing, and they were firmly embedded in the grease, so I don't think they'd been part of the release bearing for some time. When I spun the remains of the bearing, silver dust trickled out. Lots of rusty dust around here.    Yeah, there's not even a hint of any sort of lubrication in there. This would be why I had trouble getting it into gear when stopped. The pilot bearing wasn't seized, but it had enough drag to spin up the trans even with the clutch disengaged. Clutch disc was almost worn out.   Rivets were juuuust making their presence felt on the pressure plate. No damage to the flywheel, thankfully. New clutch in. Transmission will go back in tomorrow.  Also noticed this while I was under there with the trans out:   I guess that's where the slight exhaust leak is coming from. At least it's just missing and not broken off. I'll get a bolt in there before the trans goes back in. Also, that's one of the awesome things about having a phone with a half-decent camera. Who needs an inspection mirror?
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Aug 24, 2013 06:05
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Stupid question regarding XJ 97+ swaps: did they make 2-doors 97-01? I've never seen one, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.
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Sep 5, 2013 22:27
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 23:41 |
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Neat. I wonder if I can get the newer door panels to fit the older door. Must research. I don't really want to do all the work involved in a complete door swap. goobernoodles: I was going after a set of those wheels, too, but a set of 15x8 Wrangler Gamblers showed up on Craigslist first at a steal-me price. Refinishing those 10-holers shouldn't be too difficult - they are mercifully flat and smooth. First thing to do is remove the rest of the peeling clear-coat with your paint remover of choice, lots of quality time with various grades of sandpaper, then go after it with metal polish. I've polished a set of first-gen RX-7 alloys before, and it wasn't bad at all. I had to do more work on the RX-7 wheels, because they left had a "machine finish" with still fairly pronounced grooves. Re-clear-coating them is optional. It will dull them a little, but then you don't have to keep the polish up.
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Sep 6, 2013 00:06
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