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Hey guys, I need to double check. Redline mt-90 is ok for the ax15, right? I have a persistant and very slow fluid drip. 6 months, and I put maybe half a quart back in. Maybe this gear oil is too thin? I'll be driving 2700 miles this weekend.  Phoenix to New York City. At least it won't be ice raining in texas this time. ethanol fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 20:23
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| # ? May 20, 2024 01:41 |
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ethanol posted:Hey guys, I need to double check. Redline mt-90 is ok for the ax15, right? I have a persistant and very slow fluid drip. 6 months, and I put maybe half a quart back in. Maybe this gear oil is too thin? Can you identify the source of the leak? The output seal is quite easy to replace on a 2WD trans, but a pain if you need to separate a transfer case. The front is miserable (but a quick task once the trans is pulled).
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Jun 21, 2013 04:22
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Just check on it, say, every thousand miles or so if you can't fix it before leaving. If it's a leak at the midplate you're going to have to at least partially disassemble the transmission to clean and re-RTV the mating surfaces. If it's a seal it's easy like OneOverZero said, or if it's coming from one of the various plugs and sensors. Assuming it's a slow leak I'd just ignore it and keep an eye on fluid level though. You should come another few hours north and hit the trails up here while you're at it, I don't have the cash for a rausch creek run right now but I could probably be convinced to run Ma Bell, OFR, or a few other trails I know of in Western Massachusetts.
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Jun 21, 2013 04:30
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Is Rausch creek still open? A few guys I used to wheel with said they were closing it. I've always wanted to go there but never have, and wellsville Ohio for that matter.
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Jun 21, 2013 05:21
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Yeah, it's still open, they even got more land across the road and extended the park. You might be thinking of Paragon Access Park, which has been dead and gone for quite a few years now. In fact probably 3/4 of the people I know who own jeeps are currently at RC having fun without me because I have a job interview tomorrow that conflicted with the trip and I'm too broke to go anyways.
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Jun 21, 2013 05:46
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Yea paragon was the one I was thinking of. I think it's been 6 years since I had a wheelin jeep. Got sick of fixing poo poo Sunday to go to work Monday. Spending thanksgiving night at big murph is what really made me reconsider wheeling a daily driver. Spit a bearing cap which took out a ballpoint, made it out of the hole with 3 wheels spinning. Woke up at 4am with a dead battery because mud wiped out the alternator. Tore a brake line out of the caliper while loading my jeep on the trailer. Yea.........
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Jun 21, 2013 06:06
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I've been under there a hundred times I still can't tell where the leak is. I usually just keep an eye on the drip on the parking spot to make sure it is only a few drops and isn't opening up any more, and then occasionally open up the fill plug and check. I don't have the tools for a tranny drop or the cash for a professional job right now but it is so slow I don't worry about it. It wouldn't be a 14 year old jeep without at least one drip.
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Jun 21, 2013 16:34
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I never got to wheel Paragon  place was closed for a few years already when I got into this whole thing in around fall 2009.That really blows about your balljoints/brake hose/etc, I came close to doing that with my MJ the second time I took it offroad (ujoint exploded, took out the balljoints... same story) but managed to save the steering and brake line. So I jacked the jeep up with the high lift, pulled the inner shaft, then forced the balljoints back together with the stock bottle jack from below and my 4lb BFH from above, put the wheel back on and got strapped out to the trailhead. Then made the most gentle, cautious 10-20 mile drive back to the campground I have ever done  and replaced the balljoints.ethanol - try hosing all the fluid stains off the outside of the transmission with brakleen. That way the new leaks will show up better.
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Jun 21, 2013 21:37
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Now that I've wrapped up school I finally have time to hang out with the local jeep crew. Looks like they've got a mild run planned for this week.  I've only taken the JK off the pavement twice, so I'm really looking forward to it. I haven't regularly hit trails since I sold my pos YJ years ago.
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Jun 21, 2013 22:09
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Two questions about Grand Cherokee brakes: 1) I'm about ready to finally get off my rear end and do a disk swap for my XJ. Do the backing plates/calipers from any ZJ work or do I need to look for specific trim levels/engines/axles on the donor vehicle? 2) My co-worker wants me to take a look at the brakes on his WJ. He said he tried to stop once, his foot went to the floor, and he hasn't had any braking from the rear since. I think he said that he's been driving it like this for a few months now so the fronts at least seem to be doing well enough, but what should I be looking for other than low brake fluid to indicate a leak somewhere? He also said "it sounds like a bolt sliding back and forth in a pipe" but I was a little busy being terrified by the rest of what he'd told me to remember if he said it does that while driving, going around corners, braking, sitting there parked, etc.
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Jun 23, 2013 09:03
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1. Dumbasses like your coworker are why we have safety inspections for vehicles. Harass him until he stops being an idiot and has his goddamn car fixed. 2. Any ZJ with disc brakes, basically. WJ ones will NOT work, different in almost every way. Remember what year the donor was because some parts stores are dumb and think there is a difference from early to late ones, so it'll make your life easier when buying wear parts for them. You'll want a die grinder or rotary file of some sort, it takes a long rear end time (20+ minutes) and like 3-4 of the largest dremel grinding stones if you try and go that route. On the other hand, a decent die grinder and a good carbide burr will do each backing plate in like 2 minutes flat. Make sure you get the mounting studs that are used to hold the backing plates onto the axle from the donor. You'll need a BFH and a blunt round punch smaller than the diameter of the bolt to get them out without mangling the threads, in my experience the "put the nut back on and whack it" method will only end in sadness. Oh, and you're going to want a set of tiny 12 point SAE sockets when you go to pull the backing plates at the JY. ZJs use a stupid small 12 point (something under 5/16 - I want to say 1/4 or 9/32, not sure) bolt as the cross shaft retention pin inside the diff. Expect to have to pull the passenger side carrier bearing cap to get your socket and ratchet in there, unless you have a 1/4-drive ratchet and a shallow 12 point socket in the proper size. A 3/8 drive ratchet probably won't even get in there at all.
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Jun 23, 2013 09:35
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Unfortunately for anyone who ever dares venture near a road, Atlanta only has emissions inspections. Want to know the worst part about my co-worker? The only reason I found out about his brakes is because I asked him if he wanted me to finally replace his fan relay now that it was summer (his electric fan wouldn't shut off even with the car not running, so he pulled the fuse and had someone put a jumper somewhere to fool the computer into turning off the CEL so he could pass emissions.). If I hadn't asked if his car had started overheating yet he never would have brought it up! Back to ZJs though. Do ZJs use the same A/C compressor as my 98 XJ? How interchangeable are the compressor clutches? I need a new clutch for my probably aftermarket compressor and if I'm already taking the brakes I'd like to at least take a look at fixing my A/C too.
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Jun 23, 2013 14:01
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drat thing is still heat spiking. Might drive it in to the creek.
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Jun 23, 2013 14:39
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Ozmiander posted:drat thing is still heat spiking. Might drive it in to the creek. That'll keep it cool.
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Jun 23, 2013 18:43
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commissargribb posted:That'll keep it cool. hosed some intake leaks, and it now never gets over 220. Wonder if i'll be cursing again tomorrow? 
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Jun 23, 2013 23:52
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Trip report. Left hood latch blown off. Texas is impressively windy. Hood now tied down with spare ipod cable. Apple saves the day.
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Jun 25, 2013 02:37
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ethanol posted:Trip report. Left hood latch blown off. Texas is impressively windy. Hood now tied down with spare ipod cable. Apple saves the day. My hood likes to pull against my latches when I drive into a strong wind and I worry about this happening to me next weekend when I visit Rockport.
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Jun 25, 2013 02:43
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Anyone here know anything about older Jeeps? I'm probably dumb as hell for thinking it could be a project, but I think I'm going to look at it anyway. It's really hard to tell the condition from the altered photos. It wouldn't be a full-on restoration, I'd just fix the worst of the rust/driveability issues, leave it kind of haggard looking but hopefully get it running reliably and drive it that way. Is that a terrible idea?
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Jun 25, 2013 03:18
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  Beep Beep, I bought a Jeep. What do I do now? It's 4x4 and Auto. I've never owned an Automatic before, should I flush the ATF like now? The only liquid that really worries me is some ugly brake fluid. It has 180k, nice A/C, a factory AM/FM Radio! manual windows. Why no temp gauge? Its got a light for oil and water. Pretty basic. Chriskory fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 05:12
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Chriskory posted:
Awesome! A lot of XJ's did have temp gauges, but you have the more basic gauge cluster with dummy lights. I believe this can be swapped out for the better cluster but I don't have any details for you. Get familiar with https://www.naxja.org that will be your number one source for tech information. I would do a transmission drain and refill if it was my new XJ, in addition to all the other fluids (differentials, engine oil, brake fluid, power steering, COOLANT).
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Jun 25, 2013 05:48
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Chriskory posted:
My old 92 Sport was the same way, only amenity was A/C that burned out in 2004. God, I loved that thing and drove it's poor rusted rear end off. Definitely follow the new fluid advice, with that many miles on the clock, it's best to know what you have in it. The body looks nice, what's the story on the underside? Not to hijack, but I got a thing from my new wife. Here is my new uncle in law putting the new thing on  Here is the old rusty bondoed thing laying where it belongs.  Magnaflow muffler. Still quiet, hope it'll get a bit more rowdy after 2500 RPM soon. So my post isn't complete rear end, have this I took a month ago.  And this I'm crossposting from the awful ai thread, because it makes me sad. 
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Jun 25, 2013 06:55
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'Sup, exhaust-mod-weekend buddy? Finally replaced the stock header. Also put in a non-pinched down pipe to open the flow a little. 
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Jun 25, 2013 08:17
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Philip J Fry posted:'Sup, exhaust-mod-weekend buddy? I get to do this, but only to replace the gasket. Not looking forward to it.
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Jun 25, 2013 09:18
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It's really not too bad if you've got another set of hands to help out. The only irritating parts were re-installing the #3 and #4 bolts on the bottom and a couple on top because of the fuel rail and throttle control brackets (too lazy to take it off.) Other than that, it was a far easier job than everyone's horror stories made it out to be; everything fit great. Still have a fan shroud, shackle relocation brackets and shiny new diff covers to put on soon.
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Jun 25, 2013 11:11
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Things I like to do when replacing a manifold or manifold gasket: * leave the fuel rail connected to the supply lines, just unmount it from the manifold with all the injectors in place. A 12 pack of injector O-rings is $1.78 on rockauto and I hate gunked up quickdisconnects. * replace the studs at the front and back. I had one break at the back of the head, literally the last thing I tightened, inaccessible, etc. I will never reuse the studs again. The leak it caused isn't enough to trip the CEL so I said gently caress it and just got it inspected with the stud broken and won't be fixing it till I have to pull the engine for another reason. Oh, and that fan shroud is part number CH3110104, can get em brand new online for less than most junkyards will try and charge you for a 20 year old brittle one that will break on the way home.
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Jun 25, 2013 12:38
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kastein posted:Things I like to do when replacing a manifold or manifold gasket: I was thinking of ordering studs and milspec locking nuts for when I do the gasket. Its about $90 in studs and nuts though. I got a brand new shroud off ebay for $17 shipped.
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Jun 25, 2013 18:43
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I wouldn't bother with that, those bolts are such a pain in the rear end to get at I'd rather just tighten them once about a week after the gasket's seated itself. Never had an issue with them coming loose after that, at least when using the stock Belville washers.
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Jun 25, 2013 19:03
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Looks like I'm going to be changing manifolds again. My generic stainless header cracked again.
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Jun 25, 2013 19:50
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Beep beep. 05' TJ. Just hit 80,000 miles on the way home today.   Just did this last weekend, been wanting to paint these for so long. Also notice some half doors at the top that are in the process of being prepped. Going to paint them black.  Also first summer with the Rampage soft top.   Good times. 
MythObstacleIV fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 23:43
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Where was that pic taken?
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Jun 26, 2013 13:53
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DILLIGAF posted:Where was that pic taken? Blue Ridge Parkway, North Carolina. Well, a road heading up to the parkway. One of the coolest roads I've been on so far.
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Jun 26, 2013 23:29
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Veeb0rg posted:Same axle/ year I have. Good thought. Looked under the Jeep this evening, and after cleaning up, found I appear to have a 4.10:1 8.25 built in 1994:   'Course now that I've got one spot clean under there, I want the whole thing clean...
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Jun 27, 2013 04:03
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Chriskory posted:
Nice, I like that color. A gauge swap to the full gauge package is pretty easy. It's pretty much the first thing I did on my '95 SE. There are a few different cluster types, so do a little research, but every Jeep forum has a tech article on swapping them. Basically: it's pull the old lame idiot light cluster, put in fabulous all gauges cluster, then swap the oil pressure and temperature senders. No wiring changes at all. Neat thing about my '95: it's pretty much wired for every option. All I have to do is add them. Already added the rear cargo light - it just plugged in. Added the under-dash courtesy lights - they plugged in. Rear speakers - yep, though I put 6x9s in the hatch, so I had to run the wires out there. My year used the sound bar on the ceiling stock. I plan on adding cruise control, delay wipers (already have the switchgear and clockspring - came with a tilt column I bought and installed) underhood light, driving lights (got 'em with a replacement bumper) and overhead console. These things are sort of like Legos - all modular and plug and play.
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Jun 27, 2013 04:39
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You are correct, that is an 8.25, and your 4.10 estimation is likely right as well, given the 4cyl/5speed drivetrain and 4.1 tag on the cover bolt. It's a 27 spline (being made in 94) but I doubt you'll kill it with stock tires on a 4cyl and if you do, a 29 spline/LSD upgrade is only as far away as the nearest junkyard stocking late 90s Dakotas, Durangos, and XJs. Installing the OHC is annoying, but completely possible to do in a couple hours in the driveway. The most annoying part is the wiring harness, there's an extension harness that goes from a pair of connectors up under the right corner of the dashboard, up the A pillar, across the roof to the OHC that doesn't come factory with a vehicle unless it got the OHC. When I did it on my 96 the most nerve wracking part was cutting the hole in my pristine headliner, I started as small as possible and only cut out what I had to.
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Jun 27, 2013 05:01
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Philip J Fry posted:'Sup, exhaust-mod-weekend buddy? Keep it exactly like that. God I love open headers 
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Jun 27, 2013 22:56
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kastein posted:You are correct, that is an 8.25, and your 4.10 estimation is likely right as well, given the 4cyl/5speed drivetrain and 4.1 tag on the cover bolt. There were certainly enough XJs in my favorite yard. Probably Daks, too. I will need to go back to the yard and get the rest of the harness. I was in a hurry and cut it at the top of the A-pillar. Mind you, I can make my own, I would prefer to use the factory stuff if possible. Might even get the lighted sun visors, too, since the harness includes power feeds for them, too. At the moment, I've got no headliner - POs pulled it, didn't even leave the backer board - so no problem there. I just need to grab the headliner shell from one with a OHC, or just cut holes. As it happens, my OHC has been un-upholstered as well, so will need to be sure to get enough material to cover that, too. Reminds me that before I do the headliner, I need to get a roof rack, too. I think someone else just asked the question: how do you seal the riv-nuts? Chewing gum and lots of faith? I'm thinking a bit of epoxy on the underside would work, and keep them from loosening. Must use blind ones, I guess, or sealant on the bolts. Er. Maybe I should just go with a drop-rail mount.
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Jun 27, 2013 23:15
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I'd probably use RTV. Making harnesses is fun and all, but some of those connectors are a bastard to find, especially if you aren't holding one in your hand. So yeah, you're probably better off just getting it at the junkyard.
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Jun 27, 2013 23:25
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kastein posted:I'd probably use RTV. I'd just either add a pigtail with common Molex, Weatherpak, or Deutch connectors, or just whack the factory connectors off entirely and replace them, rather than find OEM stuff, if it came to that. Actually, I'm more likely to just solder directly to the existing wires just past the connectors, and then cut wires if I have to pull anything back out (unlikely.) Moot point, though - I don't think I'll have a hard time finding them. Though if I'm going to go to the effort, I guess I'd better look at what I've go and make sure I get ones that match. Not sure if they changed over the years.
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Jun 27, 2013 23:39
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I bought my front axle some new clothes!
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Jun 30, 2013 21:05
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| # ? May 20, 2024 01:41 |
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tuna posted:I bought my front axle some new clothes! Jealous! Is that a package deal from someone and will you be installing all that yourself? I probably need to start beefing up my axles soon.
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Jun 30, 2013 21:36
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