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Ola posted:I'm getting more sure that your carbs are starving for gas. The choke pulls from its own opening lower down in the float bowl so it will have access to gas while the other jets are starving. The vacuum hose going to your petcock probably has a kink in it somewhere, not enough to completely close it but enough to make it unreliable. There is often a spring around the hose to prevent this, is it still there? Does the hose look old or not original? You might be getting that person mixed up with me, though your advice might be valid in both cases. I didn't see an obvious kink in the vacuum hose but I haven't had a chance to inspect the whole line. I'll look at it hopefully later today.
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Sep 1, 2015 13:11
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 18:05 |
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Bottom Liner posted:Yeah I just have no power. No lights or anything. Figured after the recent posts it might be related somehow. I'm actually not sure when the cable snapped, I just realized it today while putzing around with my old battery and testing some stuff. The bike still runs if I jump it from a car, albeit the power comes and goes (electric, not engine). Lights dim, etc. The engine itself runs fine when I jump it. What's the multimeter say?
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Sep 1, 2015 13:11
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alnilam posted:You might be getting that person mixed up with me, though your advice might be valid in both cases. I didn't see an obvious kink in the vacuum hose but I haven't had a chance to inspect the whole line. I'll look at it hopefully later today. I guess I did! But yes that's what I would suggest you both check. Here's the initial post of his which does have those weird on/off symptoms. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2975471&pagenumber=2&perpage=40#post448283175 By the way, if it's not a kink it could be a crack or a loose fit at either end. It might also be hard to see with the tank mounted, but seem fine when the tank is lifted up and the line straightened. Another thing which can have an effect on fuel flow is the carb vent tube. I've never experienced one clogging, but I suppose it too can become jammed or kinked up.
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Sep 1, 2015 14:40
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So I just got a Harley XG750 and I'm wondering about this whole lugging the engine thing. I never knew lugging an engine was bad for it but never was inclined to, either. Anyway, an XG750 notoriously sort of does that chug-a-chug thing under about 25mph, even in the proper gear. A quick remedy people have given is to feather the clutch. A quick rundown is that 1st gear @ 10, it's chugging, stops @ 15, you shift, in 2nd, 15 chugs up until 25 which again, you shift. It doesn't chug-a-chug while under acceleration. Now I've pretty much mastered not letting it do this for my personal comfort but is it actually bad for the bike? Does using the clutch conceal or truly alleviate any damage? In short, does a bike chug-a-chugging hurt the engine?
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Sep 1, 2015 14:57
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I don't understand why you don't just rev it a bit more instead of running the motor where it is clearly struggling.
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Sep 1, 2015 15:07
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nsaP posted:I don't understand why you don't just rev it a bit more instead of running the motor where it is clearly struggling. Because parking lots are not 25mph zones. Are you saying I should defy the manual and abstain from shifting from 1st to 2nd @ 15?
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Sep 1, 2015 15:12
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If you shift and the motor lugs after you shifted, you shifted too early, yes.
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Sep 1, 2015 15:13
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Verge posted:Because parking lots are not 25mph zones. Are you saying I should defy the manual and abstain from shifting from 1st to 2nd @ 15? Yeah chugging is rough on the crank bearings. Avoid it if you can. Slipping the clutch is an option, shifting later is an option. Slipping the clutch or revving out the engine won't hurt anything. The manual's shift suggestions are always way too low. Shift the bike where it feels comfortable shifting; not where it's going to lug the next gear up. If you are looking for 2nd in parking lots, check your speed and watch for hazards.
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Sep 1, 2015 15:19
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Has it had the following fuel pump recall work done? https://www.fairfaxhog.com/?page=recalls
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Sep 1, 2015 15:26
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Lugging at 10mph doesn't sound right. That being said you can slip motorcycle clutches like crazy and not cause much wear. Work on actuating your clutch with two fingers to help control the bike at low speeds.
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Sep 1, 2015 15:36
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Z3n posted:Seafoam Ola posted:I'm getting more sure that your carbs are starving for gas. The choke pulls from its own opening lower down in the float bowl so it will have access to gas while the other jets are starving. The vacuum hose going to your petcock probably has a kink in it somewhere, not enough to completely close it but enough to make it unreliable. There is often a spring around the hose to prevent this, is it still there? Does the hose look old or not original? I've had a similar issue prior to my taking everything apart to do the valves, and then putting it all back together. It's been running great since the valve check a month ago, so I would think an issue like this would show up sooner, right? All hoses and attachments and wires inside the bike look like it just rolled out of the showroom. Nothing looked worn or damaged. I'll check for this next time I'm out there.
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Sep 1, 2015 17:24
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nsaP posted:I don't understand why you don't just rev it a bit more instead of running the motor where it is clearly struggling. ^^ It's not that hard.
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Sep 1, 2015 17:38
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Marv Hushman posted:Has it had the following fuel pump recall work done? No. I'm aware of that recall. I thought that specifically affected low fuel points. Could be related. I'll take this and clutchpuck's advice into consideration together until the service is done. Thanks, guys.
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Sep 1, 2015 19:20
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If you wear earplugs and carry a multimeter your bike will never have issues.
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Sep 1, 2015 20:16
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Superduke 990 / general clutch question: One of the bolts that holds the clutch springs in on my friend’s SD990 backed out and shredded itself against the clutch cover. The situation’s exactly the same as what’s described here. The engine was only running for a couple of seconds when this happened and the damage *seems* to be restricted to the bolt itself and the clutch cover. (i.e.: there’s flakes of disintegrated bolt / cover everywhere but no cracks in the clutch pressure cap, clutch basket etc). KTM’s ignoring the fact that a service bulletin went out a while back to make sure the bolt that backed out was tightened to spec, and that my friend’s been getting her bike serviced by their people … so I guess we’re up poo poo creek, hey? Our plan is to clean out the flakes in the clutch, replace the bolt and all the clutch springs, and flush the bike’s oil / replace the filters a few times. We’re hoping to get the majority of the flakes of bolt and clutch cover out of oil and, uh, keep on trucking. I mean, the alternative is a new engine anyway, so what do we have to lose, right? Questions: 1) Passable plan? 2) Does anyone know if the clutch booster (pictured) is supposed to have any play in it? It’s normally held pretty tightly in place by the rest of the clutch when that’s assembled, but without the plates / springs / etc in there the booster wiggles around pretty freely. Is that normal or should we be concerned? 
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Sep 2, 2015 00:31
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builds character posted:What's the multimeter say? Battery is good, putting out the right readings. Turning the key gives no neutral light or headlights/signal, etc. Each time I jump it it starts right up and runs fine until I turn it off, then if I turn the key back on the neutral light is on (along with headlights) but as soon as I press the starter it clicks and is completely dead again.
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Sep 2, 2015 00:53
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Bottom Liner posted:Battery is good, putting out the right readings. Doesn't sound like it. What are the readings with key off/key on/cranking? Spoiler alert: You probably need a new battery. What bike and how old is the battery?
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Sep 2, 2015 01:10
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2009 V-Star 250, original battery.
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Sep 2, 2015 01:20
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That's pretty old. Get a new battery.
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Sep 2, 2015 01:53
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That's WAY old. Drop that zero and get with a (yuasa)hero. I put a half a can of seafoam in my tank before filling up today, then gave it an extended italian tuneup. I don't see any clouds so I'm probably doing it wrong. At the very least, when this hits reserve I'll pour the rest of the can and run that through a bit with the stronger mixture. I really don't want to do that "suck it down the vacuum hose straight from the can!" hassle, unless I absolutely need to. The bike guy at the local parts store, who is knowledgeable, seemed confident that my floats were sticking to cause the issue I saw. Either way the bike gave me no trouble tonight, and I enjoyed my ride.
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Sep 2, 2015 02:07
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Coydog posted:That's WAY old. Drop that zero and get with a (yuasa)hero. You won't see smoke when you put it in the gas tank. Do not pour more into your gas. If you can't read the very simple directions of how to induce seafoam into your bike you probably should not do it. The internet have very simple instructions on how to pour it into the carb via the intake, or by a vacuum line if you have fuel injection. If you are not sure how to do it, or are confident on where to put it do not risk hydrolocking your engine. Either way just let the sea foam go through the tank and when you get towards empty put another third into the tank on a FULL tank. You do not need a stronger mixture. If your carb is dirty take the carb off and clean it or take it to a mechanic. Do not do half assed things again and again and expect it to fix it with magic and unicorns. Putting sea foam in gas tank is not a carb clean. While it may help, it is not a substitute.
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Sep 2, 2015 03:14
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Thanks for the warnings. I thought running straight seafoam was a thing the seafoam people recommended. Clearly, I must have misread. I'll follow your directions, and give the bottle another read. Having done a carb clean before, I don't really want to do that again if a bit of seafoam will clear up a minor issue.
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Sep 2, 2015 03:29
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Minkee posted:You won't see smoke when you put it in the gas tank. Do not pour more into your gas. Eh, it's fine. Pouring it in the carb via the intake isn't going to do anything to address carb issues, as the seafoam is just going to head down the intake vs. cleaning the jets that are pushing gas through them. It's not going to hurt it to run a stronger mixture of seafoam through the carbs, especially if it's just for a short period of time while he rides the crap out of it before he fills it up. There's "halfassing it" by JBWelding some bullshit in place, and then there's halfassing it with seafoam, which in the gas is nearly impossible to overdo, and isn't going to hurt anything, and just might clear any residual gunk or varnish out of the carbs enough to save the guy a carb cleaning. prukinski posted:Superduke 990 / general clutch question: 1) Yeah. See if you can get the crap out of it in advance, but whatever. 2) Yeah, some play there is normal to help the bike when clutch bits are spinning at very high RPM.
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Sep 2, 2015 06:11
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Clutch in on up shift or no? (DRZ if pertinent)
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Sep 3, 2015 20:33
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Any reason my new battery is making a fizzing sound like the acid is bubbling while it charges? I have it hooked up to my 3a automatic trickle charger and after 45 minutes I started hearing a fizzling sound like soda that was just poured. Should I leave the caps loose while it's charging or something? Nevermind, found this page which explains it. Didn't know if I had hosed up and had a bomb sitting in my apartment or something http://www.powergorbattery.com/tech/Motorcycle%20Battery%20FAQ.asp Motorcycle roared back to life too. Finally! Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 21:58
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I only ride my Duke every couple of days, and when I first take off the front brake is soft for one or two squeezes, then firms up. Is this related to the ABS or is it air in the lines?
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Sep 4, 2015 19:24
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Sounds like air.
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Sep 4, 2015 23:31
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Clutch in on up shift or no? (DRZ if pertinent) Whatever feels good, man.
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Sep 5, 2015 02:55
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Which makes my wallet feel good
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Sep 5, 2015 03:07
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My DRZ has maybe 23k on it and my transmission is fine. I thought it might have poo poo the bed at one point, but that was just the shifter wanting to rattle off. Ymmv.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:13
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I know they're bullet proof I just wasn't sure just because you could do it whether you should or not in daily driving.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:20
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:I know they're bullet proof I just wasn't sure just because you could do it whether you should or not in daily driving. If you can do it properly you can do it as much as you like. Your costs are directly proportionate to your ability.
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Sep 5, 2015 04:23
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:I know they're bullet proof I just wasn't sure just because you could do it whether you should or not in daily driving. I just sort of instinctively do it when I need to accelerate quickly or my clutch hand is busy. There's no real point otherwise, unless you're trying to show off (to yourself, because nobody else will notice or care). But you can pretend that you sound like someone with a quickshifter if you get good enough/used to it. So that's cool I guess. e: Also what slavvy said.
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Sep 5, 2015 04:34
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The real pro way is to hold your foot level as the bike comes down from backing off the throttle in a wheelie so it immediately engages the next gear.
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Sep 5, 2015 05:51
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man z3n you're such a bad rear end
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Sep 5, 2015 06:25
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Moar duke 690 questions: My 2008 690 doesn't start semi-regularly. I mean, it'll always catch on the second try, but first time around it'll start turning over then give up. The electrics will stop, then it'll go back to normal, flash an error code (soft 32 dat 11), and start fine. It seemed a bit like a battery on its way out to begin with but I checked it out with a multimeter and voltages seem fine. 13.6 off / 14 running at 4000 rpm. Other pertinent details: it has a lithium ion battery, the mornings have been cold AF here lately, and this is mainly an issue on cold days. I've tried the usual lithum ion work-around - running the lights for a minute before starting reduces the frequency of the crappy starts, but doesn't eliminate them entirely. I can't find that particular error code anywhere online, so ... thoughts? prukinski fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Sep 7, 2015 |
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Sep 7, 2015 01:51
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It's pretty normal for a li ion battery to not start it on the first try cold.
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Sep 7, 2015 03:12
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clutchpuck posted:It's pretty normal for a li ion battery to not start it on the first try cold. On further reading, that's not even an error code but the bike's firmware version so NEVAR MIND. Thanks, I'll wind the paranoia back a touch.
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Sep 7, 2015 03:24
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Yeah that's definitely the li-ion failing to provide appropriate CCAs when cold.
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Sep 7, 2015 04:49
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I am not having a good time trying to attach the saddle bags to my bike. Could anyone who has some soft bags attached to a sport bike throw some pictures up?
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Sep 7, 2015 17:46
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