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Are rust spotted stanchions something that's easily fixed? I mean I assume you could just scrub it off but they'll remain at greater risk of getting rusty again than new ones. How much would their performance be affected post-scrubbing?
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Feb 5, 2015 06:23
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Frosty- posted:gently caress gathering with other people, regardless of what they might believe. Riding alone is a thousand times more enjoyable than being part of a bike herd. Still probably worth looking, if only so you can find out if they have any preferred routes/times that you can try to avoid.
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Feb 10, 2015 18:09
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I didn't keep score but after watching most of parts 1 and 2 2014 edition it seems like the majority of a particular type are "rider assumes vehicle in front will keep moving" (this may or may not coincide with an excessively long shoulder check)
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Feb 12, 2015 22:50
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The more I hear about the USA the easier I can believe it's really 52 countries that share a military.
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Mar 1, 2015 12:18
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Sorry, I was just trying to fit in by showing a blatant disregard for foreign geography 
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Mar 1, 2015 12:26
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Wait, if you're panic braking then why are you also letting the clutch out during/immediately after downshifting? Unless I've misunderstood how sequential transmissions work I thought you could just bang it down to first with the clutch in and then only let it out once you're going an appropriate speed for that gear to avoid over revving the engine (though obviously the actual gears would still be spinning faster than usual for a little bit)
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Mar 5, 2015 22:25
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The phrase you're looking for is pannier frame, pannier rack, or luggage spacers. Doesn't look like there's anything that'll just grip your seat though, they'll bolt on to either your existing luggage rack or your frame or both.
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Mar 9, 2015 |
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Mar 9, 2015 08:07
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Googling "fz6 pannier frame" it looks like a couple different premade bolt ons are available specifically for the fz6. The one by Givi looks like it connects to a strap around the exhaust and to bolts behind the pillion footpegs.
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Mar 9, 2015 08:29
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Currently looking at a used YBR125 with a speedo that is exclusively metric for some reason, rather than dual. Seems like it'd be a pain to deal with and a new dual speed clock set is only about fifty quid; question is a) are they hard to change, b) can I swap a metric dial for an imperial one as-is without messing with the sensor, and c) what's the legal deal with having a fresh odometer in there? Would I need to advance the mileage somehow or leave it and just note the old reading in the logbook?
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Mar 12, 2015 21:58
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I'll have to anyway, he pulled the ad after I messaged him  goddamnedtwisto posted:YBRs are ten-a-penny so why not get one that doesn't have that smell? More like ten-a-grand-and-a-bit. I'd rather have a cat d for 750ish if I can (though almost all of these are at least 80 miles away, so I may have to suck it up and adjust my budget) Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 23:38
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1. Probably not much if at all. Certainly much less than if you'd mistaken him for someone from a different region of Britain. 2. Both accents are built on a fairly strong drawl 3. Gonna need a bit more context there fella
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Mar 19, 2015 16:42
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Finally managed to nail down a bike (CBF125), but on the ride home it became apparent that the handlebars took a slight bend from being dropped at some point. Is there anything to tell between handlebars other than ergonomics? e/ sort of related, is there a centre stand for another bike that'll fit the cbf? Replacements specifically for it don't seem to exist, despite how common it is for the shittily welded footpeg to snap off. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 23:13
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tl;dr: No, not that I can tell. I should probably mention this is my friend's assessment, as he's the one who rode it back for me, since I haven't had enough alone time with a geared bike to be comfortable on the road on something that may (and as it turns out, does) have some minor bugs. Anyway: he said it handles fine, just that going straight it felt like his right hand was set for a very mild right turn. Neither of us could detect anything when the bike was stationary or just putting around the car park it was in. e/ how common a feature is it to have to take the engine apart to get at the oil filter? Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 11:46
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Slavvy posted:
I was under the impression that most bikes have filters accessible via their own bolt on cover; for the cbf you have to remove the main engine casing (not just for the strainer, but for the centrifugal filter as well). goddamnedtwisto posted:The chain adjuster on the CBF is the stupidest loving arrangement I've ever seen and it's very easy to end up with the back wheel badly out of whack - that's worth double-checking. After looking up a video of the process,  I'll add a torque wrench and vernier calliper to my shopping list. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 20:15
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you're going to need to elaborate on this.
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Alceste posted:My first bike didn't have a fuel gauge or a light  Just, why Unless it was a pitbike or a lovely field bike, or from the 19th century
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Mar 27, 2015 21:11
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Oh right, styling. I keep forgetting bike design is 99% informed by appearance. Which is fair enough, for most people being practical means getting a car. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The reserve on the petcock is literally how you tell you need to fill up. It worked fine for about 80 years and it still works fine. Stop whining that you can't find which iphone app tells you you're low on gas. Jesus. What button do I need to press to trigger the rant about how speedos are also unnecessary. I can understand there are types of bike that don't need a fuel gauge, and I get it's not hard to make do, but fuel gauges are such an old technology and so useful that I can't really grok why you'd put anything else on a vehicle intended primarily for road use. At this point I'm mostly squinting at Twisto's Aprilla. 
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Mar 28, 2015 08:38
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Fine! I admit it! I watch the odometer closer than the fuel gauge; I just like having more dials 
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Mar 28, 2015 19:58
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Obviously the sensible compromise here is for everyone to get a glass tank.
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Mar 29, 2015 11:52
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Ola posted:One thing that happens a lot after a fall is that the fork tubes can be tweaked in the yokes. The fix is simply to undo the bolts, eyeball it straight (or line up with a piece of string from the rear wheel). Another thing which can happen is that wheel alignment is out somehow. Could be the rear wheel not being straight after a chain adjustment, could also be the spacers put back in the wrong order on either wheel. I've done both. When I put the front spacers in wrong, the bike pulled slightly to one side and I had to hold an ever so light steering input to the wrong side - small enough that I was doubting everything from the road camber to the tire itself. Took a closer look in better light, turns out it actually was this, front wheel was off about 10 degrees Got that fixed up today, so that's something.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:27
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ReelBigLizard posted:Adding oil to the fuel on a 4 stroke bike will actually make the bike run lean. Cool, cool. So I think my engine has almost no oil in it*. I know you generally want to drain old oil out before putting new in to get rid of any crud buildup, and that you want to run the engine for a few minutes prior to this to loosen it up. Should I put a bit of fresh in first to be sure there's at least something and I don't damage the engine just warming it up? Or will it be a case of five minutes of idle won't matter at all in relation to any wear it will have already sustained, in the event that it has in fact been running low and I didn't just test it wrong? *it's possible I just tested it wrong, manual says I'm supposed to run it for a couple minutes before removing the dipstick and placing it back in the socket to check the level; no idea what difference doing it cold would make
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Mar 31, 2015 21:47
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Don't forget parking the wrong way round.
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Apr 4, 2015 20:43
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Had a bit of a panic moment today after I managed to stall the cbf almost immediately after starting it (it had about 15 seconds at idle power only) and then couldn't get it to start again, I guess because the engine was flooded? I ended up letting it sit for a minute after which it did start up (but quite weakly). Is there a particular procedure for dealing with this other than "don't let it stall in the first place"?
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Apr 11, 2015 18:28
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Lynza posted:I have my Virb mounted on the side of my helmet, which works out pretty well. How is it? Reviews seem mediocre at best but the price is okay and I'm a big fan of that bullet/cylinder format, at least in comparison to gopro's thing (which I'll admit makes sense for chest mounting but ffs could they not do at least one streamlined package?)
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Apr 13, 2015 21:40
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Slavvy posted:What I don't understand here is that you acknowledge that alcohol = mental impairment and that isn't something you want when you're on a bike. Weed is also mentally impairing (in a completely different way; I admit you're less likely to die in a high speed explosion whilst stoned) but that's ok because you can totally handle it thanks to your mad stoner skills or w/e? I assume you've seen this but maybe other people haven't: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8KAaf45g5U Problem I'm having is the half dozen posts on the last page to the tune of "aw yeee riding blazed is the best". One joint doesn't impair you? Fine whatever, just consider that actively endorsing riding while high is a dumb thing to do and very different from "nah, I reckon I can make it home okay".
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Apr 30, 2015 16:28
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I think the keyword you're after is "etymotic".
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Apr 30, 2015 20:39
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Maybe your tender is busted.
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May 3, 2015 20:44
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Got a puncture in my rear tyre, taking the opportunity to get shot of the stock TVS and replace it with the manual recommended Continental. Is it necessary or advisable to replace the front at the same time? Bearing in mind it's got plenty of tread left and no damage on it (except for the fact that it's a supposedly lovely tyre with a back to front tread pattern) I'm leaning towards yes anyway since they're only £36 each, it's more for future reference.
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May 4, 2015 09:33
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Having just lubed up with spray a couple days ago I can attest that yes, there is absolutely no way to not get it everywhere. Some green poo poo, I don't know. I tried to find actual oil but nowhere near me sells any with proper SAE marks on it.
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May 15, 2015 16:51
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Remind me what the done thing is for breaking in new tires?
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May 16, 2015 16:22
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goddamnedtwisto posted:That's only for the CBT, they're talking about the equivalent of DAS (I think), to get entitlement for any bike. Which on cursory check is like £500 depending on where you go? Though I think that includes test fees as well as bike rental and stuff, sooo I'm looking to go for DAS soonish, if you've got any tips or suggestions what to look out for I'd appreciate it.
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May 18, 2015 07:16
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Last I checked most models throw them in sprung mass for the sake of simplicity and consistency. They're actually about half and half but the actual ratio changes as they compress/extend and they weigh so little it's not worth caring about.
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May 22, 2015 17:27
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Better buy a new bike, just to be safe.
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May 27, 2015 22:45
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Run it till it falls apart.
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May 28, 2015 08:44
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alnilam posted:While we're on the subject of things we aren't great at, am I the only one can't do tight curves going downhill as well? I find myself way better at curves when I'm on flat or uphill grade. Then again, my bike isn't super great at tight curves in general. Seems fair enough, since you can't really roll on the throttle going downhill.
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May 31, 2015 18:53
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How slippy is dry manure? Last couple of days I've been out there's been quite a bit on some of the back roads, and while it's fairly easy to avoid by riding in the tracks cleared by cars, I want to know how loud I should be yelling "oh poo poo" if I come upon a big patch of the stuff in a corner, in comparison to say sand or gravel. I'm not talking big piles of horse dung here, just that dusty straw coloured stuff they spread on fields every so often. Totally unrelated, I recently adjusted my brake lever down a bit and realised it's one piece with the hydraulic fluid reservoir, so the sight glass now looks almost empty when the bike is level (when the reservoir is level the glass is about three quarters full). Is there any potential for this to lead to bubbles in the brake line? Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:58 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 20:50
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Maybe some people just can't turn left.
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May 31, 2015 21:58
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I came here to ask a question about a weird problem I just noticed that hadn't occurred before, and managed to "fix" it without going back to the bike, or even finishing typing out the question. I started getting a funny noise when pitching the yoke all the way to the right. At first I thought maybe the throttle cable was getting pinched, but it looked fine and the noise wasn't quite right for a dying engine. My dash lights were flickering though, so maybe something was up with the generator somehow? Eventually realised it was just the starter button getting pushed in by my tank bag 
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Jun 12, 2015 22:12
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You suck it up and buy a cheap helmet on closeout.
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Jun 13, 2015 19:34
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You're under-revving it. e/ is what it sounds like anyway. If you're going a little uphill or into a headwind then you're not going to be able to upshift as early as on the level. But also 4000rpm is right at the bottom end of the curve for that engine. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jun 13, 2015 |
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Jun 13, 2015 22:22
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:43 |
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Jun 13, 2015 22:29
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