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Day Man posted:My tank has a saddle shape internally, and you can't see the fuel when it drops below like 2/3rds full. I'll be looking into what's wrong with the low level indicator. Seeing as I'm still the only oval office in here interested in fixing your bike: have you got a multimeter?
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Mar 29, 2015 18:58
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The best fuel gauge is the one where you have a fiberglass tank with an unpainted strip so you can see the gas level through the fiberglass.
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Mar 29, 2015 20:33
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Anyone here ever use the Baja No Pinch tire changer? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JSXTLK0/ Wanted to see if it is really as good as looks, before plunking down the cash...
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Mar 29, 2015 21:21
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On my ZRX I can't see fuel below 2/3 tank, and even sloshing it isn't a guarantee at that point. That said, 170 miles and I fill up or start looking for a gas station. For a stupid question, aluminum sprocket on this bike a bad idea? Most of my riding is commute, and if the wear is really THAT much worse it doesn't make sense, I guess. But I need sprockets like...now. I also thought about changing sprockets to lower highway RPM, but I'm worried it'll make me miss the low end 
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Mar 29, 2015 23:07
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Slavvy posted:Seeing as I'm still the only oval office in here interested in fixing your bike: have you got a multimeter? I do!
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Mar 30, 2015 00:33
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iwentdoodie posted:On my ZRX I can't see fuel below 2/3 tank, and even sloshing it isn't a guarantee at that point. From experience: don't go for a longer ratio. I know it seems like the engine has a shitload of low-end but it actually makes things worse overall and what you end up missing is the meaty mid-range which ends up being perpetually out of reach, especially coming out of corners, and the bike just feels extremely sluggish in general. Also 170 miles out of a tank is pretty loving good compared to what I got, christ! I always got closer to 140. Day Man posted:I do! Ok: I don't know if the SV1K has separate connectors for the pump and fuel light or if it uses one big one, so check to make sure nothing is unplugged first. If that checks out: take your tank off and drain it, take your fuel pump and sender assembly out and see if you get continuity across the two sender wires while operating the little toilet float thingy up and down. You might even be able to see the problem visually. If everything checks out there, make sure all your wiring etc is ok as well. If all of this checks out, the problem has to be either in the cluster itself or the little light in the cluster is blown (doubtful since it'll most likely be an LED, but possible).
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Mar 30, 2015 00:58
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Thanks! I'm gonna try to get to it this week
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Mar 30, 2015 01:39
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Slavvy posted:see if you get continuity across the two sender wires while operating the little toilet float thingy up and down To elaborate, you're looking for a variation in resistance from zero to some number as you move the sender arm through its range of motion. It's this value that feeds the downstream gauges.
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Mar 30, 2015 02:00
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Marv Hushman posted:To elaborate, you're looking for a variation in resistance from zero to some number as you move the sender arm through its range of motion. It's this value that feeds the downstream gauges. Pay attention marv, there's no gauge here, it's just a low fuel light so it'll be a binary thing.
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Mar 30, 2015 02:12
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Sometimes they're still linear but the gauges just trigger at a threshold. Cheaper to use the premade part.
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Mar 30, 2015 07:19
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Z3n posted:Sometimes they're still linear but the gauges just trigger at a threshold. Cheaper to use the premade part. I can't say I've ever seen that. I've seen the ones where it's clearly a fuel gauge float but the bike only has a light, but the light itself is triggered by a different circuit to the one used for the gauge, which is inert.
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Mar 30, 2015 07:26
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Day Man, you appear to be well within the bike's practical range, so we can probably rule out erratic consumption issues: http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25000&page=3 Also, Suzuki had a few designs for this on the SV1K, apparently the more problematic one involved a pair of thermistors mounted to the fuel pump to handle the two-stage warning (blinking and solid) : http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223025 http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38021 One design (likely the earliest) involved a float; the thermistor version, as the name implies, operated on the principle that it was either submerged in gas or it wasn't--two conditions, two temps, on/off. Broken record advice: find your service manual by hook or crook, and figure out exactly what you have before tearing into this. It's at most a mild inconvenience, given that by all accounts the bike is thirsty and you're going to be gassing up every 100 miles anyway. Also, if you haven't ruled out the light already--it should come on momentarily with the rest on startup.
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Mar 30, 2015 11:18
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Slavvy posted:I can't say I've ever seen that. I've seen the ones where it's clearly a fuel gauge float but the bike only has a light, but the light itself is triggered by a different circuit to the one used for the gauge, which is inert. Come to think of it - I just saw the linear sensor for the thing and didn't think about what it actuated on the gixxer 600s, which only has a fuel light.
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Mar 30, 2015 16:53
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So does everyone who's saying to check your mileage instead of using a fuel gauge get rock solid, consistent mileage all the time? I guess that works if you're commuting on flat land, that will not work as well in Colorado canyons. I like not stopping the bike unnecessarily to check fuel levels or make fuel stops, I don't always ride within 20 miles of a gas station, thus I like fuel gauges. They're neat.
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Mar 30, 2015 17:48
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Radbot posted:So does everyone who's saying to check your mileage instead of using a fuel gauge get rock solid, consistent mileage all the time? I guess that works if you're commuting on flat land, that will not work as well in Colorado canyons. Again, you're over complicating it. If on average, you can run to 200 miles before hitting reserve, then you should fill up at around 160. If you're at 100 and about to do some twisties, fill up. If you're at 30, dont bother. I dont know about others, but I get rather consistent mileage on my GS500 with no fuel gauge. Unless you have a bike without a reserve petcock and no fuel gauge, then perhaps you have a right to be a tad touchy. If you're really that worried, get AAA or AMA to come bring you gas.
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Mar 30, 2015 18:13
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So, what oil should I use when I'm changing the oil? Synthetic or regular? Any particular weight? Someone said putting just a touch of chainsaw oil in the gas tank helped lubricate the parts. Is that right?
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Mar 30, 2015 18:46
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I'm a idiot and I love spending money on bullshit, this is what I've found. If you have an aircooled motor you should use this http://www.amazon.com/Maxima-30-039...ords=maxima+20w unless you live somewhere really cold. If you're liquid cooled, you can use p much anything but I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Maxima-349128-Premium4-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B000GU7LK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427738035&sr=8-1&keywords=maxima+10w
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Mar 30, 2015 18:54
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builds character posted:So, what oil should I use when I'm changing the oil? Synthetic or regular? Any particular weight? Someone said putting just a touch of chainsaw oil in the gas tank helped lubricate the parts. Is that right? The one in your manual. The type in your manual. The weight in your manual. What the gently caress don't do that.
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Mar 30, 2015 18:58
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Yes they are neat, if so equipped. If not, you improvise, adapt and overcome. If I learned anything from this exercise, it's that a carbureted 1200 Sporty is remarkably fuel efficient in comparison, routinely getting 50+ mpg.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:03
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builds character posted:So, what oil should I use when I'm changing the oil? Synthetic or regular? Any particular weight? Someone said putting just a touch of chainsaw oil in the gas tank helped lubricate the parts. Is that right? That's ridiculous. Who the gently caress adds chainsaw oil. What you really want to do is mix one part pineapple juice for every four parts motor oil, and then consult your local homeopath for the right remedy additive.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:19
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Radbot posted:So does everyone who's saying to check your mileage instead of using a fuel gauge get rock solid, consistent mileage all the time? My mileage was spotty on my old bike whenever I'd ride in the mountains. I would just make sure to stop ~20 miles before I normally would. I had a gas gauge but never used/trusted it.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:25
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Ola posted:One thing that happens a lot after a fall is that the fork tubes can be tweaked in the yokes. The fix is simply to undo the bolts, eyeball it straight (or line up with a piece of string from the rear wheel). Another thing which can happen is that wheel alignment is out somehow. Could be the rear wheel not being straight after a chain adjustment, could also be the spacers put back in the wrong order on either wheel. I've done both. When I put the front spacers in wrong, the bike pulled slightly to one side and I had to hold an ever so light steering input to the wrong side - small enough that I was doubting everything from the road camber to the tire itself. Took a closer look in better light, turns out it actually was this, front wheel was off about 10 degrees  Got that fixed up today, so that's something.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:27
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keep in mind that some wet clutches want a specific classification of oil, e.g. JASO T 903 standard MA.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:57
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nitrogen posted:Unless you have a bike without a reserve petcock and no fuel gauge, then perhaps you have a right to be a tad touchy. If you're really that worried, get AAA or AMA to come bring you gas. Assuming you're in an area with cellphone coverage. Reserve petcocks also primarily rely on gas stations being in your general vicinity.
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Mar 30, 2015 20:03
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Radbot posted:So does everyone who's saying to check your mileage instead of using a fuel gauge get rock solid, consistent mileage all the time? I guess that works if you're commuting on flat land, that will not work as well in Colorado canyons. I only count miles when I'm in remote areas with sparse services, and even then it's simply "once we're over 80 miles, I'll look for the next gas station because they could be 60 miles apart". Mostly I just wait for my fuel light to come on and go to a gas station. That's what it's for, works a lot like a fuel gauge but instead of having a debatable-accurate fuel level read out that eventually flashes for "you're low, find more", it has fairly-dependable and simpler "you're low, find more" readout. Petcock-equipped bikes are the same, except it's harder to ignore when you go to reserve because the bike will die if you don't. When the level sensor wiring chafed to ground on my old Ulysses, instead of counting miles 'cause it was broken, I fixed it so the light came on when it should. Radbot posted:Assuming you're in an area with cellphone coverage. Reserve petcocks also primarily rely on gas stations being in your general vicinity. Maybe I'm an idiot, but I always figured simply riding a motorcycle relies on gas stations being in the general vicinity. If you're riding that far away from services, carry a jerry can. Road King is equipped with a gauge, but it still ran out between Alamo and Tonopah, Nevada.  We are literate and semi-alert so we could figure out that the bike needed extra gas to get through. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 20:05
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tirinal posted:That's ridiculous. Who the gently caress adds chainsaw oil. I just put water in my bike engine and the natural memory of oil simulates frictionless movement in the engine or something.
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Mar 30, 2015 20:35
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Lubrication is a lie from big oil. I've been giving my bike detoxing fruit juice enemas instead.
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Mar 30, 2015 20:41
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Chichevache posted:Where do you live? SC. There's a place in Myrtle Beach that might have not-Harleys, but it's an hour and a half away.
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Mar 30, 2015 20:57
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Radbot posted:Assuming you're in an area with cellphone coverage. Reserve petcocks also primarily rely on gas stations being in your general vicinity. I think you might want to give up motorcycles. They seem too complex for you. For an actual helpful comment, http://www.amazon.com/MSR-MSRFUELBOTT-Fuel-Bottle/dp/B002L1413S Skreemer introduced me to these.
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Mar 30, 2015 23:03
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Marv Hushman posted:Day Man, you appear to be well within the bike's practical range, so we can probably rule out erratic consumption issues: Thanks for the advice! The light comes on when I power up the bike, so that part works. I found a copy of the repair manual and will look into troubleshooting it tonight. I believe I have the thermistor version.
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Mar 30, 2015 23:37
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Slavvy posted:From experience: don't go for a longer ratio. I know it seems like the engine has a shitload of low-end but it actually makes things worse overall and what you end up missing is the meaty mid-range which ends up being perpetually out of reach, especially coming out of corners, and the bike just feels extremely sluggish in general. That's what I figured. A sixth gear would just be loving nice sometimes. Stock sprockets are what, 17/42? And yeah, and 170 is actually low. If I'm not riding like a dong, I can usually get 200 out of it. 170-180 is switch to reserve time.
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Mar 31, 2015 00:16
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lmao if your bike is equipped with a fuel tank designed to get you more than 15 laps around the track.
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Mar 31, 2015 00:42
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builds character posted:So, what oil should I use when I'm changing the oil? Synthetic or regular? Any particular weight? Someone said putting just a touch of chainsaw oil in the gas tank helped lubricate the parts. Is that right? That "Chainsaw oil" is just oil that gets added to gas for 2-stroke engines. If you don't have a 2-stroke engine, don't worry about it. Alternatively dump a few bottles of 2-stroke oil in your car's gas tank and report back to us.
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Mar 31, 2015 07:17
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Adding oil to the fuel on a 4 stroke bike will actually make the bike run lean. This is bad. How to pick oil: ReelBigLizard posted:In order of bestness / safeness: ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 09:31
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gently caress me. My parking lot is basically a beach right now, and some sand got underneath the cover and dulled the poo poo out of the clearcoat on my tank. How can I fix this, and how can I prevent it from happening without using a gross tank bra/not covering the bike at all?
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Mar 31, 2015 11:16
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I had good success with plastic polish (Novus) for getting small scratches out of clearcoat. Probably doesn't hurt to give it a coat of car wax afterwards.
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Mar 31, 2015 11:29
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nitrogen posted:I think you might want to give up motorcycles. They seem too complex for you. Sorry I ride places far away from my home. The MSR bottle is a great suggestion, though.
Radbot fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 14:09
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M42 posted:gently caress me. My parking lot is basically a beach right now, and some sand got underneath the cover and dulled the poo poo out of the clearcoat on my tank. How can I fix this, and how can I prevent it from happening without using a gross tank bra/not covering the bike at all? Get one of those all in one buffing kits, carefully buff until the tank is shiny again, and then use the rest of the products to protect the finish. I used SC1 spray finish and it seems pretty good at adding a hard layer of stuff to protect and keep the bike easy to clean.
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Mar 31, 2015 16:52
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ReelBigLizard posted:Adding oil to the fuel on a 4 stroke bike will actually make the bike run lean. Cool, cool. So I think my engine has almost no oil in it*. I know you generally want to drain old oil out before putting new in to get rid of any crud buildup, and that you want to run the engine for a few minutes prior to this to loosen it up. Should I put a bit of fresh in first to be sure there's at least something and I don't damage the engine just warming it up? Or will it be a case of five minutes of idle won't matter at all in relation to any wear it will have already sustained, in the event that it has in fact been running low and I didn't just test it wrong? *it's possible I just tested it wrong, manual says I'm supposed to run it for a couple minutes before removing the dipstick and placing it back in the socket to check the level; no idea what difference doing it cold would make
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Mar 31, 2015 21:47
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I'd just drain it cold and change it, if you're worried about it having the wrong level, although you definitely tested it wrong. I don't think getting it hot makes a huge difference in what crap you get out of the engine on a modern engine. If you're really paranoid about it, change the oil cold, add the appropriate amount of oil, ride it for 200 or so miles, and then change it again. But that's silly.
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Mar 31, 2015 21:54
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