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astrollinthepork posted:So, I bought a 2002 Buell Blast from my girlfriend last summer. I know that CA hates this bike, but it is my first and it has been quite a lot of fun. My car conveniently took a poo poo at the same time I bought the bike last summer, and I ended up putting about 4,000 miles on it. I never rode it longer than 120 miles at a time. sup blast buddy I wouldn't worry about taking the blast on a long trip in the us because it's basically a harley so you can buy parts or have it fixed at almost all of their shops
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Dec 31, 2011 02:27
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:It is not in fact good for the engine. Arguably it's bad for the engine in a minor sense. You're putting a load on the engine when you don't need to. The wear on the engine is incredibly small each time, but imagine it's like opening the throttle more than you need to every time you accelerate. It has a cumulative effect. I don't think it would have a long-term effect that would be measurable on the average bike/rider, but it's not a GOOD thing to do to the engine. At best it has no effect. The load you put on the bike's engine engine braking is negligible compared to other loads. The load during engine braking is only from compressing and re-expanding the intake air. The force to do so is negligible compared to the force from a combustion event with the same charge of air. In steel, when loads are small enough compared to the ultimate strength, the part can have infinite life. The only, very small, drawback to engine braking is the normal wear caused by friction, which again, should be small because the loads (and pressures) on the engine are also small. Giblet Plus! fucked around with this message at 00:30 on May 1, 2012 |
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May 1, 2012 00:28
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Sir Cornelius posted:For reduced chain wear do the opposite. Keep the front and go minus 4 on the rear. I disagree. Chain wear is effected negatively by small sprockets ~15 teeth or less. When sprockets get that small, they become less and less like perfect circles, and wear increases, because the distance between the front and rear sprockets is dynamically changing at a faster rate, which puts extra loads on the chain and sprocket teeth.
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Jul 2, 2012 15:56
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Here's a chart which describes what I was saying. Notice how things get really bad below 15 or so teeth. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/SprocketsOtherSizesFAQ.htm
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Jul 2, 2012 16:00
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I'm trying to decide on my next bike. My current bike is the much hated by CA buell blast. I personally am happy with it, but I bought it knowing I'd be doing some wrenching, and believe me, I have been. Allow me to list my criteria below, in order of importance: Light weight. Not much more than 400 lbs wet weight. Great handling. Inverted forks preferred. 60-100 hp. I want to never have to worry about passing on the freeway. So far I'm split between finding an sv650 with a fork swap, and a not so lightly used buell xb9 or xb12. What else could I be looking at? I would like to spend $3k tops, and I'm planning on buying during the fall or winter. Giblet Plus! fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 6, 2012 |
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Aug 6, 2012 22:47
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n8r posted:Inverted forks have poo poo to do with how well a fork performs compared to a lot of other factors. Sorry, not true. There are numerous advantages to the inverted arrangement which cannot be countered by a conventional fork. Lower unsprung mass, larger distance between top and bottom triple tree, and larger clamp diameter at the triple trees.
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Aug 7, 2012 01:04
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Snowdens Secret posted:When you're talking roadbikes - particularly more budget ones that aren't race reps - inverted forks are more for cosmetics, because the frames aren't good enough, wheels aren't light enough etc to take advantage of the benefits. Basically if it's a cosmetic feature you really want, that's cool, but if not, don't rule out a good bike that meets your criteria otherwise. A cartridge kit in a right side up fork can give you excellent handling.   maybe you see where i'm going with this quote:You might want to try looking for a Honda 599 or a smaller Ducati Monster, although neither will be very common in your price range but both have USD forks. I do like the 599.
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Aug 7, 2012 03:12
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Dissenting view here. If it's a 2nd year team, and your budget is low, I say forget about making an electro mechanical quick shifter. Just make mechanical connections to the clutch and shift lever. If you want quick shifting, rig up your mechanical shifter with a strain gauge attached to a circuit that reads when you're pressing it to shift up and cuts the ignition. You do not want a complex shifting mechanism as a failure point. Get your car up and running with as simple of systems as possible, get it reliable, start testing and breaking things, fix the things that break. Then, and only then, start thinking about adding complexity. Forget what your "senior members" think about purchasing systems. They are wrong and their extra year or two of experience is still nothing in absolute terms.
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Sep 19, 2012 00:02
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nullscan posted:That's Waikiki/Oahu traffic. My afternoon commute home was 4 miles and it would take an hour + to get home. how did you justify driving 4 mph commuting? are you morbidly obese?
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Oct 15, 2013 02:53
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Sagebrush posted:Idle varies when tilting the bike back and forth -- bizarre as hell, but it almost certainly has to do with fuel delivery. Something's clogged when it should be open, or open when it should be sealed, and the mixture is changing as the fuel moves around and various little pipes get exposed to the air or whatever. The rubber carb boots could be leaking air.
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Jan 23, 2015 04:23
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Slavvy posted:Isn't the entire purpose of the ZTL brake to stop the pull to one side you normally get with a single front brake? Nah it's to save weight by making the load path from the brake disc to the ground shorter.
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Jan 25, 2015 22:46
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So I just did an oil change at 3000 miles on my Ninja 300. The only earlier change was the 500 mile break in oil change. I noticed some small sparkly metal bits in the oil. Am I correct in assuming that these are probably from the transmission, and nothing to worry about? The dealer mentioned I might see some.
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Mar 15, 2015 22:27
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Odette posted:How small are we talking? If we're talking fine grain, then that's generally OK. Anything larger is cause for concern. Yeah they were very small. Nothing is off about how the bike runs.
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Mar 16, 2015 01:51
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Ripoff posted:Sounds like 100% normal wear and tear on a brand new engine. Kinda surprised the manual didn't tell you to change the oil at 500 miles, though. No you're right, the manual asked for a 600 mile change, which I did early at 500. I didn't notice anything in the oil then, but I did at the 3000 mile change yesterday.
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Mar 17, 2015 03:51
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marshmonkey posted:Yea, I have test ridden it twice now. No problem holding it up at a stop, just makes me feel a bit uneasy (especially 2 up) coming from a bike I can flatfoot no problem. I think some shoe lifts and seat modification would get me most of the way to feeling better about it. The bike didn't feel very top heavy, pretty well balanced really. The suspension and wind protection are awesome, at least compared to my CTX700. My partner really liked it riding pillion. Did it come in that color?
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Mar 22, 2015 03:39
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Phone posted:Anybody ever deal with Honda financing? I'm trying to justify buying a Grom and taking out a note on it just so that I can keep some money in my bank account. Probably try to take out 2k and pay it off within a year. My credit's OK, the other option is to just pick up a 0% APR CC and do that. Or you could just buy an XR100, right now, for cash
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Apr 2, 2015 20:25
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BlackMK4 posted:It works if you're messing around because it unloads the gears enough for a smooth shift if you time it right. I've been working on making my upshifts smoother. What I've been doing is pre-loading the gear selector slightly, then quickly twisting my throttle wrist to close the throttle, then completely shifting as I engage and release the clutch and ease back on the throttle. The whole process goes really fast. I have smooth fast shifts like this maybe 90% of the time. I try to shift from 1st to 2nd above 8k because shifts are smoother at higher rpm. What can I do, other than practice, to have smooth shifts all the time? The 10% where they are less smooth usually involves clunking sounds. Bike is a Ninja 300.
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May 5, 2015 06:23
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Don't worry about using the clutch, at that point you're clutchless shifting anyway. An hour or so practice should be all you need to get as smooth as you need to be for road riding - after a while you'll stop waiting for the gear to change and just know you only need to roll the throttle off x amount to make the shift, so you lose that jerk that you get as you wait for the gear to shift. Okay I'll try it. I have some sort of weird mental block against touching the shift lever without touching the clutch lever.
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May 5, 2015 15:47
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I'm in the process of setting up an interview with victory motorcycles. Does anyone have any interesting anecdotes or knowledge of these bikes past what I can gleam from their website and youtube?
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May 12, 2015 18:38
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MustardFacial posted:
Congrats, you have a perfect bike for practicing. Once you feel comfortable on the dirt, take it out to a parking lot. It will be easier to keep a constant speed if you shift into 2nd. There's a lot of engine braking in 1st.
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May 16, 2015 04:37
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Ola posted:I'm sure this has been discussed before, but the bit about unsprung weight confuses me because it's the other way around on my right side up forks. The shiny steel bits connected to the frame are way heavier than the aluminium bits connected to the wheel. Perhaps the stanchions can be made shorter on USD forks and are lighter than the widened, beefed up tubes. 50% of the spring counts as sprung, 50% unsprung.
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May 22, 2015 17:32
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