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Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Geirskogul posted:

I PUMP MY OWN GODDAMN GAS THANK YOU

The beauty of riding a bike is, so do I :smugdog:

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Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Marxalot posted:

Because I'm pretty sure Intertek charged us >$28 to run water on an acetone sample the other day. And that's just a 2min test on one of these.

That's because Intertek overcharges through the nose on everything though. :v:

Source: my wife works at Intertek.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002
Got insurance on it and took it on the road for the first time since I bought it. :feelsgood:

FrankenSV rode fine, aside from the typical marshmallows Suzuki calls forks. Thursday I'm gonna take off work a bit early so I can take it down to the DMV to get the title transfer done and get my new plates and reg.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002
Took it down to the DMV (where I'm sitting, waiting, and phone posting from) to get the title transferred and get my oregon plates and reg (was a Washington bike).

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Voltage posted:

They don't in ny, it's always a huge pain to go to the DMV. Last time I had to go twice because the teller didn't believe the sellers signature on the tax form matched the title, which it did. Second bike they said the same thing. Really annoying.

They don't have third party DMVs here in Oregon either - I've never even heard of such a thing. Had to take off from work an hour early to rush home change into my gear, and get the bike down there.

Was the second time I had gone to get the title changed over - first time I just drove over to the DMV by my job after work with the title and filled out the paperwork, only to be told they couldn't do a title transfer without the vehicle present so they could do a vin inspection (which is obvious in retrospect, but didn't occur to me before then, since in this state motorcycles aren't otherwise subject to inspection or DEQ testing in any way). Having to bring the vehicle there presented special problems, since I bought the bike wrecked and missing a lot of things needed to make it rideable on the street, don't own a truck myself, and the tags that came on it expired next week on Tuesday; so it's been a mad rush of trying to get it roadworthy as quickly and cheaply as possible so I could get it down to the DMV before the tags expired.

Would have also been easier if the weather had stayed warmer like it had been the last few weeks so I could just ride it to work and hit the DMV near it when I get out at 3pm, but lately the mornings have been in the mid-low 40f range and currently my only bike jacket is my perforated leather A* that gets me frozen if I wear it below 60f or so. My waterproof winter jacket was the one I lost in my crash last year and still have not replaced.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002
Took it out for its' first long ride (my first real ride since my crash last year).



The frankenbike in all its' flipperbaby glory.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002
You can also just get a premade, prefitted new seat cover off eBay or from various MC parts stores (saddlemens is one brand).

I reupholstered my goldwing's saddle with a new cover from eBay, took about an hour to remove the original cover and get the new one on.

E: found the after pic:

Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 20:42 on May 30, 2016

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

SaNChEzZ posted:

Isn't a motorcycle basically air conditioning incarnate?

Not for the poor suckers who have fairings and windshields.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

BlackMK4 posted:


It's hotter today. :woop:

As a wise person once said, Arizona is a testament to man's hubris.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

Got a Czechoslovakian moped running today. Had to diagnose 35 year old Czechoslovakian electrics and send part of them off to electrical people to rewind them because you can't get new stator parts. Then I had to order a FOUR VOLT ignition coil from the Czech republic because it's not part of Czechoslovakia anymore, then make my own throttle cable adjusters because whatever cable and twist grip were on it didn't fit each other.

Please tell me it was a Jawa and not a Cezeta or something else.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

60 Hertz Jig posted:

Did you get name brand ones, or eBay specials? I know they're just levers, but I feel like if I get cheap ones I'll end up with a problem down the road, or I'll find something I hate about them.

At least with cheap levers I could just replace them if I don't like the colors.

I had some chinesium levers I got off eBay from this seller: http://www.the2wheels.com/ on my FZ1, they fit decently and worked fine, didn't have any issues with them. Looks like you can order them for the same price as eBay right off their website.

Also, glad to see I'm not the only one who removed his windscreen from his FZ1, got really tired of having it funneling a windcannon right into my chin and neck. So much less turbulence without it.

Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Sep 3, 2016

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Ugh my renders of the video have no sound!! Apparently I'm running into this: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1056445

Video still coming!!

Looks like from that thread it may just be an issue with the latest version of Creative Cloud and you can workaround by installing an older version of Premiere - grab Premiere CS2 from here: https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/cs2-product-downloads.html?promoid=19SCDRQK

And install it using the keys on that site (There are free downloads of unlocked CS2 versions of all their software on that link - Adobe shut down the auth server for that version and they made those unlocked versions available for download so users would not be prevented from using their copies of CS2, but anyone can download them by creating an account using a throwaway email; CS2 is effectively free for anyone at this point)

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Z3n posted:

OEM vstrom Suzuki forks are hilariously soft.

Just Suzuki thangs. :shrug:

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Coydog posted:

Installed 1.25 in handlebar risers on the Ducati. At first I wasn't sure it did enough to the ergos to mean anything. After much more riding, I can say it completely fixes the hideous ergos of the bike. Not only that, the bike "feels" lighter and cornering is infinitely easier and more natural. As an added bonus, the controls and clutch are all easier and completely natural to use, now.

I am very happy, and did not expect it to be so easy to install (no change in cables/wires).

I also installed a relay + two 800lum aux lights I had sitting around. The headlight on the duc is just the absolute worst, and the cyclops doesn't fit.

"Ok ducati, your little tank clasp system is cute and all, but I still have to unhook everything and remove, because it's just slotted into something at the back and-IS THAT A HINGE?!"


"Wait... that means I can probably...."


:dogbutton: :aaaaa: (yes I found the prop for the tank in the tool kit later on) That is so brilliant. Of course, servicing the valves is probably still a total bitch.

Bonus Italian!


I wasn't really happy with them at first, in both ruining the classic look on the bike, and blending poorly with the incan headlight. Now, I don't think they really stand out, being installed so high and tight. The beam took getting used to, but now I like the warm center for colors, and the general wash of high output everywhere else. They are only 10degree 800 lum each, but are a night and day difference. Triggered by the high beam switch, of course.


A hinged flip-up fuel tank isn't particularly uncommon, especially on newer bikes. I just wish I had the proprod for my SV650's fuel tank, it's the one thing that was missing from the toolkit when I got it.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

The only thing 'hard' about a Blast is how hard it is to like one.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Beach Bum posted:

Sure wish Suzuki wasn't using an MC proprietary thread pitch so I could use the Purolator Synthetics that I like so much for the rest of my fleet.


http://balestech.com/filter.htm

$20 or less and about 2 minutes to install and you can use all the common filters that other bike brands use. I got that and now I can use $6 purolator Pure-One filters instead of $15 Suzuki or K&N (Fram rebrands).

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Verge posted:

I just use k&n oil filters (the cheap, disposable ones - yes, they make reusable ones) from cyclegear for my gen 1. Works fine. Any CG employee can help you pick one that fits your bike and they should have it in stock.

The filters K&N sell for Suzukis are cheap Chinese made paper filters, they're no better than Fram despite the 'K&N' name you're paying for. (Also smh for K&N and their snake-oily marketing).

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002
The hex nut on the K&N filter the PO had put on my SV was covered in such thick paint/epoxy/whatever they coated the outside of the filter with that it was both enlarged enough that a socket of the right size did not fit on it, and the sockets that did fit on it couldn't get a grip because the paint effectively rounded off the corners enough that the socket just cammed off of it when you applied any torque.

Fortunately I have a set of actual useful strap wrenches so I just removed it with those.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Coydog posted:

So wait, NOW you are hating for going with a lower cost option that gives the same end product, instead of shaming for not spending more? You really do swing both ways, don't you? ;)

You should re-read what I wrote, perhaps. I'm annoyed that K&N slaps their logo on bottom dollar Chinese filters that work the same as a $3 Fram, and then charge $12-15 for them (go look on Amazon for SV650 filters, most of them are hilariously overpriced). The best filter on the market, Purolator Pure-One filters, cost about $6 at Advance Auto or O'Reillys, for comparison, so you're paying twice the price for an objectively worse filter (cheap paper media, less filtration, and cheaper, flimsier valves).


You *can* install a $15 filter adapter to let your Suzuki run the same filters selection as Honda/Kawasaki/Yamaha/KTM/etc instead of the severely restricted selection Suzuki's proprietary filter threading is compatible with since they feel like they gotta be a special snowflake; so it's not a completely terminal situation.

E: another example of overpriced K&N garbage that's worse than factory: their intake kit for E46 BMWs is actually worse than the factory intake, causing increased intake air temps and causing the engine to more rapidly get heat soaked under hard driving. But it can be yours for only $300!

Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Oct 18, 2016

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Coydog posted:

So wait, you''ll spend $4000 on a motorcycle, and balk at spending an extra $6 on oil filters?! LOL PERSPECTIVE, Amirite? (Seriously HCC you and I are cool I have no beef.)

I'll have you know I spent a whopping $500 for my current motorcycle, thankyouverymuch. :colbert:

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

cursedshitbox posted:

OEM for oil. Overflow/pressurizing cam bearings* and spinning them are a thing, and its a motherfucker to deal with.




* as seen on heavy duty diesels.

E: have also seen numerous pressure/drainback related issues with certain filters over the years too.

This is why I try to exclusively stick to Pure-One filters, as the vast majority of filters on the market, (even OEM filters), have super cheap nitrile (the same stuff disposable surgical style gloves are made of) anti-drainback valves and cardboard or plastic bypass valves in them that can and do fail on occasion. If the bypass valve fails open, it means that now all your oil is bypassing the filter entirely, and if it fails closed, it can create overpressure. Pure-One filters use much more durable silicone valves that are twice as thick as other brands, and they have stainless steel bypass valves that can't stick or fail like a cardboard or plastic one can. They also use three different layers of filter media, one paper (the only thing used by cheap filters) and two different layers of cellulose and fiberglass for far better filtration*. They really, truly, seriously are objectively the best made filters you can buy.

Pure-One filters are rated by SAE testing (SAE J1858 to be precise) to remove 99.2% of all particles 20 micron or larger. Most paper-only filters only filter out around 60% of particles 20 micron in size, so they pass a hell of a lot more crud back into your engine.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Slavvy posted:

Changing the fork oil will do nothing productive for you, I've been down that exact road. The only thing that will make those forks not suck balls is intiminators or just swapping them for a gixxer front.

Also worth noting that Racetech cartridge emulators for an SV650 are like $130, they're hardly expensive.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Sagebrush posted:

I have a little baby 1/4" drive torque wrench that measures from 2 to 18 ft-lbs that I use for little fasteners like that where the torque is specified.

I can't imagine what would get those bolts jammed in so badly that they stretched and broke coming out. Maybe the DSPO really gorilla'd them down? Like, yeah, OEM Japanese bolts are often made of moon cheese, but usually that only shows up in stripped heads, not bolts breaking apart outright.

Yup, I got one too, also marked in in-lbs since some of the really low torque bolts use inch-pounds instead of foot pounds.

Also, it's a Suzuki, so of course the bolts are cheaper and shitter than other brands, it's par for the brand.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Sagebrush posted:

Thanks! I'm pretty stoked with how it's turning out. The electronics and code are mostly working, and I'm currently fixing up some of the 3D models to make them a little more suitable for printing. Tolerancing is pretty important, especially around the screen, which is a raw chunk of glass so I am printing three-dimensional gaskets out of TPE but the material's quite squishy and doesn't hold perfect accuracy so you have to print a part and then measure what you actually got and compensate and yada yada.


Yes, of course. :P They're addressable RGB LED strips. The top one is going to be a tachometer and the bottom one shows the idiot lights (turn/neutral/oil/high beam), but since it's all software they could do anything. I'm considering having a "night mode" setting where it's very subtle and non-distracting -- the screen goes off and the LED strips turn on dim red, the top one showing RPM and the bottom one showing speed somehow. Maybe a segmented bar with each group of three LEDs representing 10mph or something.



IMO it suits bikes with the correct '80s ~aesthetic~. A ZRX would be relatively well suited cause it's got a kind of mid-90s look, but really it would slot in best on things like an early VFR, the CX turbos, a Suzuki Katana, that kind of stuff. The relatively straight-lined transitional period between round bubbly '70s bikes and blobular computer-modeled '90s fairings. The Hawk GT doesn't actually scream "1980s!" like some of those do -- it's a pretty timeless design IMO. But there are subtle things I'm doing here to make it match, like for instance the radii of curvature of the edges of the gauge housing are identical to the curvature of the sides of the Hawk's gas tank.

I'm trying to make the display look like the future of motorcycling as imagined at the 1987 Tokyo motor show, so imagine what else would have been there and that's what it'll fit.

It would also look good on a 1st/2nd gen SV650, since those are just newer versions of the Hawk from a different manufacturer. If you ever make one for a gen 1 SV, I'll buy one.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Coydog posted:


I made my own shielded/soldered/heatshrinked/pro as gently caress harness and plugs for the stock system, and tucked everything away properly. This system will actually last.

:can:
Real pros always crimp wires, they never solder them. Your harness is still amateur grade.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Had you actually read through the entire document, you'd see that it applies to soldering things onto circuit boards and terminals. Wire splicing is not listed in there (and the document does specify that you cannot solder anything subject to strain without using a stress relief). It specifies soldering techniques because you can't really crimp a wire right onto a PCB, and a lot of old NASA stuff was well before the dominance of modern ICs and was still point-to-point wired.

Aerospace and milspec have both long forbidden solder splices of wires (source: my great-grandmother used to wire planes at Lockheed (mainly L-1011 Tristars). She's the one who taught me how to solder and do wiring work; I still have her old toolbox in my garage).

Or, to repost yet again my fav motorsport wiring how-to resource:
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

"Wire to wire splices can be accomplished with Tyco Raychem D-406, or Sumitube W79 adhesive lined shrink tube. Do not solder the wires together. Proper crimping is the preferred method"

That page is porn to me. Just looking at their beautifully concentrically layered and tied harnesses gets me hard.

Overkill for a regular street bike? Probably. But oh so arousing.

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Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Slavvy posted:

Good lord.

I commend you for getting it running well with a car carb.

I could commit him for terminal insanity. And I say that as someone who's had a GL1000 (mostly) in parts sitting in my garage slowly getting unfucked of PO abuse for about two years now.

Restoring and unfucking one as a hobby project is one thing, but relying on a 40+ year old frankenbike as your only transport that doesn't involve a bus pass is certifiable.

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