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The hex nut on the K&N filter the PO had put on my SV was covered in such thick paint/epoxy/whatever they coated the outside of the filter with that it was both enlarged enough that a socket of the right size did not fit on it, and the sockets that did fit on it couldn't get a grip because the paint effectively rounded off the corners enough that the socket just cammed off of it when you applied any torque. Fortunately I have a set of actual useful strap wrenches so I just removed it with those.
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Oct 18, 2016 02:48
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penus penus penus posted:
That's amazing. Good for you. Motorcycles need more touches of whimsy, and less posturing. HotCanadianChick posted:The filters K&N sell for Suzukis are cheap Chinese made paper filters, they're no better than Fram despite the 'K&N' name you're paying for. (Also smh for K&N and their snake-oily marketing). So wait, NOW you are hating for going with a lower cost option that gives the same end product, instead of shaming for not spending more? You really do swing both ways, don't you?  ~*~TODAY I REMOVED DANTE'S INFERNO FROM THE KTM!~*~ KTM- It gives you Wings!  And a shirt! And a phallic keyring!  I also have plans to black my guards like this advrider did, with an added special rabbit in orange on the rear one, very very soon. I think that the smaller proportions of the Wings no longer look so good with those pretty heat shields. However, blacking them out would look fantastic with the way my bike is aesthetically, and fit well with the new exhaust. 
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Oct 18, 2016 02:57
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Beach Bum posted:I have all the end cap adapters and a plethora of oil filter wrenches, the hex is nothing you can't get with the end caps. I guess it's good for folks without hundreds in tools.
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Oct 18, 2016 03:22
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Ive never met filter that could resist a flathead screwdriver and a hammer 
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Oct 18, 2016 03:27
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Coydog posted:So wait, NOW you are hating for going with a lower cost option that gives the same end product, instead of shaming for not spending more? You really do swing both ways, don't you? You should re-read what I wrote, perhaps. I'm annoyed that K&N slaps their logo on bottom dollar Chinese filters that work the same as a $3 Fram, and then charge $12-15 for them (go look on Amazon for SV650 filters, most of them are hilariously overpriced). The best filter on the market, Purolator Pure-One filters, cost about $6 at Advance Auto or O'Reillys, for comparison, so you're paying twice the price for an objectively worse filter (cheap paper media, less filtration, and cheaper, flimsier valves). You *can* install a $15 filter adapter to let your Suzuki run the same filters selection as Honda/Kawasaki/Yamaha/KTM/etc instead of the severely restricted selection Suzuki's proprietary filter threading is compatible with since they feel like they gotta be a special snowflake; so it's not a completely terminal situation. E: another example of overpriced K&N garbage that's worse than factory: their intake kit for E46 BMWs is actually worse than the factory intake, causing increased intake air temps and causing the engine to more rapidly get heat soaked under hard driving. But it can be yours for only $300! Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Oct 18, 2016 |
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Oct 18, 2016 03:41
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So wait, you''ll spend $4000 on a motorcycle, and balk at spending an extra $6 on oil filters?! LOL PERSPECTIVE, Amirite? (Seriously HCC you and I are cool I have no beef.) I agree on the KN stuff, if only for all the trashy idiots with KN stickers on their cars like it's a goddamned performance part. I appreciate their filters, because putting a socket head connector on them stuck me as worth rewarding. Oddly enough, I now buy KN only for bikes that have no screw in filter, and have done so for the last three motorcycles. It's me, I'm the one the marketing companies dreamed of. Hooked on the brand as a repeat customer, without even realizing it. 
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Oct 18, 2016 04:03
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Coydog posted:So wait, you''ll spend $4000 on a motorcycle, and balk at spending an extra $6 on oil filters?! LOL PERSPECTIVE, Amirite? (Seriously HCC you and I are cool I have no beef.) I'll have you know I spent a whopping $500 for my current motorcycle, thankyouverymuch. 
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Oct 18, 2016 04:30
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penus penus penus posted:
I had one of these on the WR-X  I would just constantly beep it next to people's open windows while splitting, it was the best.
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Oct 18, 2016 05:56
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:K&N are nice for having an actual hex head on them though. There's also a hole though it for convenient safety wiring, if your race series requires that sort of thing.
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Oct 18, 2016 06:56
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Slim Pickens posted:There's also a hole though it for convenient safety wiring, if your race series requires that sort of thing. A lot of orgs require an OEM oil filter now, but yeah, that's a nice touch.
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Oct 18, 2016 07:36
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Wonderful!
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Oct 18, 2016 08:10
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Coydog posted:And a shirt! And a phallic keyring!  
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Oct 18, 2016 09:22
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that chuckle 
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Oct 18, 2016 13:09
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OEM oil filters because oil flow is important enough that I want to keep the original specs and not have them determined by some rando at K&N or Fram or Pureolator or some guy on the Internet who talks about filter mediums without concerns to the rest of the system it's hooked up to. Of course if what's behind that filter is a vfr or some old shitpile you're never going to adjust the valves on, well then, maybe it doesn't matter so much. Garbage in, garbage out. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Oct 18, 2016 |
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Oct 18, 2016 15:43
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I imagine, if you have a KLR, you can just use old coffee filters or something and it will be just fine.
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Oct 18, 2016 15:54
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Roll of toilet paper
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Oct 18, 2016 16:10
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I don't have much of an opinion on oil filters so I like em cheap. With the Buell I like to change the oil way too often so I never have one in for long enough to care about how well it filters after about 2 weeks. I have a list on OneNote of all the acceptable Autozone filters and just pick up like 3 Bosch 3311s once a year for about the price of one K&N or Harley filter. People with opinions seem to like those. Fram is on that list too tho, *if you're in a jam, just find a Fram*
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Oct 18, 2016 16:42
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Just use a DNEPR filter.
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Oct 18, 2016 17:37
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OEM for oil. Overflow/pressurizing cam bearings* and spinning them are a thing, and its a motherfucker to deal with. E: have also seen numerous pressure/drainback related issues with certain filters over the years too.
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Oct 18, 2016 18:42
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cursedshitbox posted:OEM for oil. Overflow/pressurizing cam bearings* and spinning them are a thing, and its a motherfucker to deal with. This is why I try to exclusively stick to Pure-One filters, as the vast majority of filters on the market, (even OEM filters), have super cheap nitrile (the same stuff disposable surgical style gloves are made of) anti-drainback valves and cardboard or plastic bypass valves in them that can and do fail on occasion. If the bypass valve fails open, it means that now all your oil is bypassing the filter entirely, and if it fails closed, it can create overpressure. Pure-One filters use much more durable silicone valves that are twice as thick as other brands, and they have stainless steel bypass valves that can't stick or fail like a cardboard or plastic one can. They also use three different layers of filter media, one paper (the only thing used by cheap filters) and two different layers of cellulose and fiberglass for far better filtration*. They really, truly, seriously are objectively the best made filters you can buy. Pure-One filters are rated by SAE testing (SAE J1858 to be precise) to remove 99.2% of all particles 20 micron or larger. Most paper-only filters only filter out around 60% of particles 20 micron in size, so they pass a hell of a lot more crud back into your engine.
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Oct 18, 2016 20:30
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As my engine takes 4 oil filters, I just use a random, but different, brand for each.
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Oct 18, 2016 20:38
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Filtration isn't free.
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Oct 18, 2016 22:28
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My SV has a k$n air filter in it and I'm thinking of swapping back to stock because gently caress washing and oiling a filter on a street bike. E: I'm leaving that, the most perfect of typos
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Oct 19, 2016 01:34
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:
I was sure it was intentional.
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Oct 19, 2016 08:52
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I had one of those on my GS500, I sold it with it still aboard. Thanks for reminding me to get another! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1-kl8KHHLw
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Oct 19, 2016 23:45
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N is for Nipples posted:I had one of those on my GS500, I sold it with it still aboard. Thanks for reminding me to get another! I even moved it to the correct side now! My only gripe is that it rings slightly just from the engine vibration but for some reason the noise doesn't bother me (yet the tiniest creaking or squeak will). It's not like anybody else can hear it either over the exhaust
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Oct 20, 2016 15:34
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Today I replaced my chain and sprockets. It was pretty easy except for the clutch assembly. I forgot how hard the rear wheel is to move in gear, clutch in, engine off, so I spent literally houra trying to find the right spot. It was a hard day
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Oct 21, 2016 19:19
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Put the engine back in, rode the wheels off it. What a fantastic bike! I don't understand why I never see people on dual sports giving it death because it's incredibly fun on the lovely roads here.  (good god my phone camera sucks rear end)
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Oct 22, 2016 05:41
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Slavvy posted:Put the engine back in, rode the wheels off it. What a fantastic bike! I don't understand why I never see people on dual sports giving it death because it's incredibly fun on the lovely roads here. We need more itty bitty trail bikes.
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Oct 22, 2016 06:34
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Prepped the new-old exhaust with removing loose paint and rust, painted rust converter on the few spots that was bad. I'll hit it with high temp paint tomorrow. Ordered new brake line, disc, pads and caliper rebuild kit for the front. Put new type sintered pads in last time and that hosed the old disc straight up, especially with the caliper plungers being abit sticky from the rock hard old rubber. measured it to 3.3mm in the worst part (service limit is 4mm). It's gonna be the first time I refresh rubber in a caliper, looking forward to getting that back in top working order.
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Oct 22, 2016 17:49
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Replaced my clutch cable on a 08 SV650s. Getting this adjusted was surprisingly intimidating I had no idea really where everything should be. Also when I was wiping off the shaft the clutch tension assembly thing is on it just fell off and engine oil started pouring out. It was a  moment. Also replaced my rear shock with a ZX14R shock.  This was actually easier than the clutch cable  It is way different. Probably improved, but honestly this being my first bike and having ridden only a WR250 before I wouldn't know any better. It certainly doesn't sink into the ground anymore when I sit on it 
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Oct 23, 2016 02:21
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penus penus penus posted:Replaced my clutch cable on a 08 SV650s. Getting this adjusted was surprisingly intimidating I had no idea really where everything should be. Also when I was wiping off the shaft the clutch tension assembly thing is on it just fell off and engine oil started pouring out. It was a You doing anything to the front suspension to compensate?
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Oct 23, 2016 04:35
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I replaced my chain and sprockets finally. hosed up just about every step. Dismounted rear wheel before breaking chain, stripped a sprocket nut (it's on order - i go by feel for ft-lbs; I'm gonna stop doing that) and spent six loving hours fighting the clutch assembly to figure out why my clutch suddenly sucks only to remember that clutches suck without the engine running. It was a really bad day, please be gentle. This was all after standing up my gf because i ran out of gas.
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Oct 23, 2016 06:42
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:You doing anything to the front suspension to compensate? I was going to change my front springs for heavier ones and the oil, but nothing else most likely due to cost
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Oct 23, 2016 09:17
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Jb welded all the stator magnets back into the drum, hopefully charging correctly. Haven't checked output yet. Changed front brake pads at the same time too. I was going to install footpeg lowering kit but I can't remove this one loving piece so I can't change it. Need to borrow a car jack to decompress the rear so I can install raising links.
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Oct 23, 2016 17:53
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penus penus penus posted:I was going to change my front springs for heavier ones and the oil, but nothing else most likely due to cost Changing the fork oil will do nothing productive for you, I've been down that exact road. The only thing that will make those forks not suck balls is intiminators or just swapping them for a gixxer front.
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Oct 23, 2016 19:54
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Somehow people go really, really quick on stock fork leg SV650s...
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Oct 23, 2016 20:56
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Replace the fork oil with molasses
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Oct 23, 2016 21:46
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Molasses is too heavy. You're gonna really want to go with a mid-weight treacle.
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Oct 23, 2016 21:53
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Slavvy posted:Changing the fork oil will do nothing productive for you, I've been down that exact road. The only thing that will make those forks not suck balls is intiminators or just swapping them for a gixxer front. Also worth noting that Racetech cartridge emulators for an SV650 are like $130, they're hardly expensive.
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Oct 23, 2016 23:05
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