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Is the goal to get a better sub? I just realized you probably want to sell the sub with the speakers so it stays as a package.
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Sep 12, 2016 15:45
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If it's bass you're after, buy a passive sub off Parts Express and one of Crown's XLS amps 
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Sep 12, 2016 16:00
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I have a pair of AV40s on my covered porch. Am I asking for trouble? I live in Ohio so I could see humidity and temperature being an issue, but then again I only paid $80 for them.
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Sep 12, 2016 17:05
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Ok goons, please shower me with your knowledge and/or disdain. I've read around, but if there is some required reading for this, please point the way. I've just moved into this setup: Living room wired for 5.1, Acoustimass 10 Patio/lanai, L-shaped, wired for 8 speakers backyard wired for 4 speakers Speakers 1-12 are all these yamahas. My questions: How do I power these? I can see a mono setup, but is stereo possible? How do I best create the different zones? 5.1 inside, #1-6 zone 2, #7-8 zone 3, #9-12 zone 4? Multi source zones? I imagine different sources for the 5.1 and everything else, can you get more specific than that? What's the best way to control speaker volume on the fly? Separate volume controllers or through the receiver/amp or from a phone/tablet? Streaming from iphones/pandora? Controlling all this through iphone/ipad/android tablet? Which brands/models for receivers to consider? Which for the amps? How many? What is a reasonable amount to spend? Super awesome MSPaint included. 
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Sep 14, 2016 19:48
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Whats up home audio thread Looking for my first legit sound system for music. I don't give a poo poo about movie sound, just music and bass. What's the recommended ~$500-$700 build for 2.1 with a receiver? Floor speakers and big bass preferable. Edit: Looking at this setup. Thoughts/criticisms? Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Sep 15, 2016 |
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Sep 15, 2016 01:12
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Adiabatic posted:Whats up home audio thread Looks all good to me. (though if you wanted big bass you'd buy another sub...  [I mean a second one of those, not a different one] )
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Sep 15, 2016 09:57
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TacDv8 posted:Ok goons, please shower me with your knowledge and/or disdain. I've read around, but if there is some required reading for this, please point the way. Do a receiver for 5.1 and a 12 channel amp for the outdoor stuff. You can use a monitor out from receiver to feed the 12 channel, or have it run from a different source depending on what you think the use case will be (if you want to use them both at same time for different things). A new 5.1 channel receiver will have wifi and be app controllable and probably accept streams from devices as well as having something like pandora built in. I have a pioneer vsx 1130 and it does all that.
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Sep 15, 2016 14:25
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Got a size upgrade   Turns out I shouldn't have worried about size, it was smaller than I expected. Yamaha only gives gross dimensions everywhere that I could find and that includes knobs & connectors which are huge. Glad I went for amp with connectors for 2 sets of speakers, already thinking about wiring up another room. Digital input is cool to have.  Also, it looks really nice and robust. Def overkill for my tiny speakers though. Thinking about nice DIY rack for it not some nightstand I dragged in from attic. And  question also - I've read that source volume should always be set at 100% and actual volume control should be done on amp itself. Is this still a thing if I use computer as source? Setting everything to 100% means I can barely touch amp volume unless I really want to crank out some loud music.
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Sep 16, 2016 06:59
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Are you using a digital or analog connection from your computer?
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Sep 16, 2016 08:02
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If you're using a reasonably modern OS, don't worry too much about it. Newer version of Windows, Linux and Mac OS all use very high precision in their digital volume controls. Yes, ideally you should use the volume control closest to the end of the signal chain, but it'll be fine unless you do silly stuff like setting the OS volume to 2% and cranking the amp to make up for it. E: And sometimes you just can't use the volume control closest to the end of the chain, either because there isn't one (some power amps only have a power control and fixed gain), or because each speaker/amp has its own volume control. In my setup, I have two active speakers and two active subs, and it would be completely unrealistic to adjust the volume on each of them every time. So I've set the levels on the speakers to where normal-to-loud listening level is around 50% on the preamp I'm using, and quiet listening is around 25%. That gives me a lot more usable travel on the volume knob and makes small changes easier. It also raises the input level into my DSP box, which should help the signal-to-noise ratio. The tradeoff is that the maximum possible volume I can play at is somewhat lower than it would otherwise be, but it's still plenty loud when turned up to 100% on the preamp, certainly loud enough for any apartment building. Vintage amps sometimes have a mute button, which actually doesn't mute the signal fully, it just applies an additional attenuation (usually around -20dB to -30dB) before the volume control, again to let you have more usable range on it. Having a function like that seems to have fallen out of fashion sometime in the 1980s, though. In your case, I would set the volume on your amp so your normal listening volume is around 50% on your computer's volume control, and control the volume in software. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 16, 2016 08:42
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Thanks again! I'll stop worrying about volume then and just going to enjoy some music  And yes, currently using optical to hook up my computer.
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Sep 16, 2016 09:18
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Ok, depending on your DAC, it may help if you set Windows to 24-bit output on the digital sound device. Any difference will probably be inaudible, but it's technically the best choice.
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Sep 16, 2016 09:31
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ah forget it posted:
Tiny speakers need big amps. Huge speakers can make due with small amps.
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Sep 16, 2016 17:38
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What kind of audio plug do I need to buy to replace this? I don't have soldering equipment or anything beyond basic tools. I should fix that soon.
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Sep 16, 2016 19:28
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goodness posted:What kind of audio plug do I need to buy to replace this? I don't have soldering equipment or anything beyond basic tools. I should fix that soon. I'm assuming the other end is permanently fixed to whatever device, so you can't replace the whole cable. Something like this should let you fix it without soldering: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Male-Audio-Plug-Connector-w-Screw-Terminal-/381137590348?hash=item58bd92184c:g:hCEAAOSw1ZBUxne7 
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Sep 16, 2016 19:44
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Looks like the 3.5mm jack that apple is trying to destroy.
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Sep 16, 2016 19:44
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So I went and got some more stuff. Headphones this time around. Thomann (http://www.thomann.de) had AKG K701 for €149. Couldn't go wrong there. SO wanted some mobile headphones, so she got Urbanears from an offer where they sent a pair of buds with the actual Bluetooth headphones. Headphones are lackluster for the price, but buds are nice and comfy. I suppose their runner BT aren't bad, with machine washable pads and tight fit: it's just not what I want. She's happy with them and walks around the apartment like a zombie. From a sale I scored a Bluetooth speaker that got plenty of use during the summer. Caliber HPG 514, says on the tin. It rattles quite a bit when you use the wireless, works just fine with a 3,5mm wire. Noise is not very perceptible when you play it loud though, and when youre playing outside why bother with any other settings? For €15 I think it's fine, but I wouldn't pay any real money for it.
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Sep 17, 2016 00:28
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taqueso posted:I'm assuming the other end is permanently fixed to whatever device, so you can't replace the whole cable. Something like this should let you fix it without soldering: You would be correct. It is fixed so i can't replace the cable. I'll try that out!
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Sep 17, 2016 00:55
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goodness posted:You would be correct. It is fixed so i can't replace the cable. I'll try that out! You'd do better to replace the whole pile of stuff, unless it's very exceptional. It's not.
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Sep 17, 2016 04:16
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Hob_Gadling posted:You'd do better to replace the whole pile of stuff, unless it's very exceptional. It's not. About a $150 system. Large bass with 2 wired speakers. I do need to upgrade but it has good sound.
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Sep 17, 2016 08:26
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I just recently got a samsung hw-k650 sound bar and 2 radiant360 r5 speakers and am experiencing lip sync issues. I have the speakers grouped via the samsung multiroom app through wifi. I have the cable box going into my xbox one via hdmi cable. I have tried sending the video and audio to the soundbar via hdmi and then taking the hdmi cable to the tv via hdmi ARC. I have tried to send the video and audio directly to the tv via hdmi and then sending the audio to the sound bar via optical from the tv. I have tried sending video hdmi to the tv and audio from xbox one to the sound bar via optical cable. In the xbox settings I have the audio set to stero uncompressed. The wifi wants to hear audio out of the back speakers all the time not just when something zooms by. Any ideas?
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Sep 17, 2016 20:19
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We recently bought a new house, and it turns out the previous owners had wired up speakers around the house, because they liked putting it on when guests were around or something like that. We want to do the same thing, but I know next to nothing about audio systems! We currently have 2 speakers outside, and 2 in the kitchen; each one has 2-wire copper leads. This all currently has a giant coil in the basement (meaning we can thread it anywhere with little issue). We also want to put up a pair of speakers in the Living/Dining Room, and then a pair in the Family Room. (So, 4 pairs of speakers total) Running all the wire is no issue. We want the control box for this whole thing in the Family Room, which is also where the TV is. It'd be nice to also route the Apple TV through this control box (that's a receiver, right?) as it goes to the TV; that way we could play music from the Apple TV outside if we wanted to (so we can do cool things with AirPlay or whatever, if the box doesn't handle AirPlay itself). We really couldn't care less about making the TV have any better sound or 2.1 or whatever; we rarely watch TV, and when we do, we don't care that much about the "immersive experience" because it's like Wheel of Fortune or kids' shows or something. What we want from the control box is the ability to control which speakers audio is playing out of. We don't really care about different audio in different places, since we're not going to like, be putting jazz on in the kitchen but rock on in the living room or anything like that; our house isn't big enough for that to make sense. I'm not even really sure where best to start doing research, aside from on here or going to Best Buy. I did that, and the guy felt like the slimiest sales guy ever, and I don't trust them at all. At best, it sounds like I might need a 9-channel system? We don't need anything that's like super fancy, we just want to put on soft jazz or Christmas music or something when we have company over sometimes, or when cleaning house or something. Super high fidelity is not that important, so long as I or my wife can listen to a talky talky podcast while cleaning and understand the words, and music doesn't sound like poo poo. Can anyone please point me in the right direction, maybe even provide recommendations on reasonably priced receivers (I think that's the right word) that do what we want? Or at least, what I can actually google for or look for on vendor websites so I can actually attempt a comparison?
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Sep 25, 2016 02:39
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Here's my oddball suggestion of getting multiple Audio Chromecasts and naming each one after the room you put them in. As for receiver/speaker recommendations, I'll leave that to more knowledgeable folk
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Sep 25, 2016 03:54
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If you only had one other zone I would recommend a regular receiver but with several others you would want to have a receiver in your family room, and then just have it output line level to another amp that powers the rest of your speakers.
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Sep 25, 2016 05:14
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fyallm posted:I just recently got a samsung hw-k650 sound bar and 2 radiant360 r5 speakers and am experiencing lip sync issues. Yeah, the xbone adds significant lag to anything running through it. My friend ran his 360 through it and was complaining that Super Meat Boy was impossible, I just laughed at him struggle to do the easiest of levels and then he handed me the pad. It's a solid half a second delay and the only way around it is to never run anything through the xbone as it's a big pile of poo poo as a 'media hub' Also your wireless speakers will no doubt add lag to the signal, the joy of no wires.
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Sep 25, 2016 13:31
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When I had my house built, the builder installed a 5.1 setup in the walls (for the front three speakers) and the ceiling (the two surrounds). The speaker wire is run through a gangbox. I have AM20 mounts that hook up to the box, and say they support up to 12lbs. I have some older small Sony speakers that came with a receiver along with a powered sub and have served me well. Obviously being part of a kit, they aren't the highest quality. Is there a thread recommendation for a set of 5.1 speakers that are under 10lbs?
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Sep 25, 2016 15:43
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teagone posted:Here's my oddball suggestion of getting multiple Audio Chromecasts and naming each one after the room you put them in. As for receiver/speaker recommendations, I'll leave that to more knowledgeable folk poo poo I never knew about these little things and am now finding them tempting.
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Sep 25, 2016 15:56
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I need to stop reading this thread because y'all make me keep looking at audio gear.
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Sep 25, 2016 17:00
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teagone posted:Here's my oddball suggestion of getting multiple Audio Chromecasts and naming each one after the room you put them in. As for receiver/speaker recommendations, I'll leave that to more knowledgeable folk Given the wiring that's already in place, and what that Chromecast looks like it supports, I don't think this will meet my needs. Dogen posted:If you only had one other zone I would recommend a regular receiver but with several others you would want to have a receiver in your family room, and then just have it output line level to another amp that powers the rest of your speakers. I'm guessing the receiver could be a simple two-zone jobbie, which should be pretty easy to find. What would be an example of such an amp?
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Sep 25, 2016 20:15
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I mean, most AVRs will support a zone 2. I have a Pioneer VSX 1130 and it does. But honestly to drive so many speakers in the rest of the house you need a separate amp with 8 channels and they'll all have line level inputs anyway, such that you just run RCA cable from your source (could be monitor out on your AVR, could be something else entirely). Or I guess if you don't want an AVR, leave that out of it and just get the multi channel amp for your house speakers? Question to the thread: my receiver supports a 5.1.2 atmos config. Is it worth it to get a couple atmos add on modules? Dogen fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 25, 2016 |
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Sep 25, 2016 20:16
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The hard part is the amp. They tend to be expensive when you get to large numbers of channels. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_745CI980/NAD-CI-980.html You would probably want one with a trigger for each zone so you could turn them on and off independently. I don't know about the quality of this manufacturer, but it would fit the bill: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_543D850/Russound-D850.html KillHour fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Sep 25, 2016 |
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Sep 25, 2016 23:02
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I'm looking to put together a basic audio system, using Pioneer SP-BS22 speakers. Right now I am looking at a Yamaha RS-300 stereo receiver and a Yamaha CD-S300 CD player. I have no experience with audio systems... For the proposed set-up, i have a couple of questions for: - does the RS-300 have enough power for the Pioneer speakers? Reviews said that the RS-201 has insufficient power at low distortion, is that true for the RS-300? The specs aren't very clear too, dynamic power is given at 77W for the RS-300 versus a maximum of 80W for the pioneer speakers. But, a distortion level isn't given at that power level. - are the two systems the best performing at their price range? I'm looking to do a pure sound system to play CDs / radio / music off a computer. Thanks for your help!
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Sep 27, 2016 20:09
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Sperglord posted:- does the RS-300 have enough power for the Pioneer speakers? Yes, easily. I've no idea what the review is supposed to convey. Maybe that the amp can't give a lot of clean power? The idea with distortion is generally that once your speakers draw more power than the amp can provide, they start clipping. This can damage your equipment and will sound pretty terrible. And anyway, even a RS-201 can give enough power to run a pair of BS-22 speakers. Since audio stuff is not like computer stuff, "best performing" is somewhat subjective. It's less absolute measurements and more preference. The setup is certainly fine for stereo listening and you could do a hell of a lot worse for the price. If you're not sure, go to a hi-fi shop and do some listening before buying.
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Sep 27, 2016 22:34
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Monoprice is making power amps now. This is pretty high end territory and I'm not sure what speakers out there want a sustained 200W per channel (300W at 4 ohms) to sound nice, but if that's up anyone here's alley I'd be interested about hearing what kind of setups these get used in. http://www.monoprice.com/pages/monolith I might personally bite on their $200 Planar headphones if reviews are good. I'd love electrostats, but am also not willing to blow that kind of cash on something so niche.
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Sep 27, 2016 22:40
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Thanks for the response. The review said that RS-201 couldn't drive Pioneer without terrible sound quality. I think it was due to the issue you mentioned. From what you said, RS-300 should be able to drive the speakers without a problem. As for the rest of the components, I'll try to find a local audio store that carries this to test the quality.
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Sep 27, 2016 22:52
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Interesting, those amps. I still feel a behringer inuke setup would be a better deal with 10x the wattage capability. The only downside would be fan noise but most people can get away with disconnecting the fans as they're meant for budget PA systems running at 100+ db in huge clubs for hours.
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Sep 28, 2016 00:46
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If you want a big cheap amp Crown XLS are pretty darn good. Stable into 2 ohms, bridgeable, have built in crossovers if you want to bi-amp. They do have an appreciable but not terrible background hiss that is audible in quiet listening but the fans are basically inaudible.
Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Sep 28, 2016 |
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Sep 28, 2016 00:50
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My wife wants me to get her some in house sound system sort of thing for her birthday (we are remodelling) and speaking with her it sounds like she wants three sets of stereo speakers in the ceiling connected to a receiver. My question really is can I just get any old 2,1 receiver and hook three speakers into each channel? It doesn't matter if they are all one zone as it's along 40 feet of open concept sort of poo poo so it will have to be playing the same stuff anyway. Does anyone have experience with the in ceiling speakers and could speak to a good brand? I know it says in the op to listen to them but we are in the sticks and this will have to be an internet order.
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Sep 28, 2016 02:06
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You can't get a few Sonos units? Will probably sound better than in ceiling speakers firing straight down.
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Sep 28, 2016 02:13
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We looked at those and considered them but it's just like a speaker on your counter or whatever and didn't really tickle her fancy. Do the in ceiling speakers sound terrible?
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Sep 28, 2016 02:24
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