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Does anybody have experience with the Qubeley Papillion? I'm enjoying Build Fighters and adore the insect motif, even if it seems a bit overly bulky and I'm not a fan of the colors. I was wondering how bad of an idea it'd be to get one for use as my first model. Or, potentially, a Beginning Gundam instead, because I find the face incredibly charming.
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Mar 3, 2014 19:56
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BlitzBlast posted:Qubeley Papillion is based off the old as poo poo HG Qubeley, so it's not very good articulation wise. It's also very sticker heavy, yet at the same time doesn't actually have enough stickers for all the stripes. Dalong has a review of it up if you want to check it out more. Ugh. I thought those stripes were printed, not stickers (I've always had horrid experiences with stickers), and I'm sharing an apartment that's also infested with cats so anything beyond panel washes and topcoats is a no go for painting, at the moment. Are any of the non-papillion Build Fighter models any good? And what's so weird about the Beginning Gundam's Construction, since I think it's probably one of my favorite models I've seen.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:21
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I'm so for asking so many questions about potential models, but I'm kinda scared of spending hours working on a model only for it to break due to a well-documented design flaw like what happened last time I bought a model kit. Are there any issues with any of the HG00 models? And has anybody in this thread build the Bearguy III?
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Mar 4, 2014 21:29
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A new batch of images just came out of the HGBF Miss Sazabi, with some information about it's pilor, and it doesn't seem to be too sticker heavy either. It's available for a good price on amiami, and I really like the design (not as much as the Exia or some of the other 00 Gundams, but it's from Build Fighters, so.) I think I might have picked my first gunpla.  A question, though, regarding tools for the runners and the nubs. I know I'm gonna need a good pair of nippers for the runners, and everybody seems to recommend a different pair? Are there any that are especially reccomended for their quality? Also, everybody seems to have a different approach to nubs. Some do two nipper cuts, some do a nipper cut and then a parallel cut with an x-acto, some do a nipper and then a gradual shaving with an x-acto, some use a metal file, and some use sandpaper. Is there any approach that's generally agreed upon to leave the smallest mark? Also, I saw some posts about people using 1000 and 2000 grade sandpaper to polish off the mark. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Mar 5, 2014 21:35
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BlitzBlast posted:If you paid more than $15 for it, your nippers are probably good enough. As long as it's made for the task, it'll be fine. What do you mean by shittly leg connection though, and is there anything I can do to improve it if it's the same connection.
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Mar 5, 2014 23:02
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If I'm gonna be attempting an acrylic panel wash for safety reasons, what kind of clear coat is recommended? The favorite varieties mostly appear to be acrylic.
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Mar 6, 2014 15:25
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boom boom boom posted:Honestly if that stuff isn't released with a magazine like they did with the folding Astray sword gun, they're really missing a trick. I might be misremembering, but when I was looking through the GBF I could've sworn I saw a weapon pack based on the weapons from that episode. I was sick, though, so I might've just saw a normal weapon pack, and confused it with those particular weapons.
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Mar 7, 2014 03:34
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So Gundam Guy posted a review of the Miss Sazabi on his site, and there are only four stickers total! I'm feeling better and better about selecting this set, even if the design is rather polarizing from what I've been reading. One thing that bothers me is that the (vents?) on the shoulders are a sticker instead of a molded part, and the stickers seem slightly off color in comparison. How difficult would it be to construct vents out of styrene sheeting? Am I overthinking how to approach my first set?  S-Alpha posted:That actually is dusted (well, not the bases, but gently caress the bases), that's the topcoat I use catching the light. It doesn't look like that on the other two kits because of the lighter plastic. I'm thinking of changing topcoats just because of that. What topcoat are you using?
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Mar 7, 2014 07:52
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Do people do a clear coat before they apply graphite panel lining? Also, what there any downsides to using pencils to do panel lining compared to a panel wash?
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Mar 8, 2014 07:28
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boom boom boom posted:The comic shop chain in Houston just massively expanded the Gunpla section in every store. Going from a couple MGs and RGs to like, 50 kits. What chain is it?
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Mar 11, 2014 05:37
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AzMiLion posted:Fun story, I put together a Buster Gundam a couple of weeks back whilst somewhat inebriated. The day after I had a lot of tools that aren't used for gunpla in my gunpa toolbox, such as hammers. And some runners (not the actual gundam bits, just the runners) that were smashed into fine dust. apparently I got angry at the Buster at some point. How'd the Buster turn out?
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Mar 12, 2014 18:36
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The Miss Sazabi is ready to ship from AmiAmi! Subtotal: 2,180 JPY Shipping: 2,400 JPY Grand total: 4,580 JPY  This is more than it should be, right? Right?
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Mar 13, 2014 18:58
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Since that EMS price is a bit too much considering I still need to buy tools, is there any reason not to go with Air Small Packet? Are Gunpla even eligible for that? (Or SAL Packet, I guess.)
everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Mar 13, 2014 |
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Mar 13, 2014 19:16
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Oh. Apparently the Miss Sazabi is pretty big for an HG, which would explain the elevated cost and shipping prices.  I'm guessing it'd be better to wait to until I have the ability to paint in order to provide a greater level of detail, since it seems like there are a lot of large, blank surfaces, or just wait until an MG version comes out. HG Exia? Any reason against starting with that?
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Mar 13, 2014 21:05
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Has anybody done a comparison of different pencil leads for the purpose of panel lining? I came across some 2b .3 pencil leads, and some 4b .5 pencil leads while looking through a bin of art supplies, and I remember having 2b and 3b .5 leads as well. If not, would that be something people would be interested in having?
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Mar 16, 2014 17:47
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muike posted:http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2014/03/hgbc-1144-skull-weapon-new-images.html it looks like poo poo I was hoping for that crossbow that was in one of the MG crossbone kits. Are there any HG sets with a bow or crossbow? Only thing I'm finding are some Artemie conversion kits.
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Mar 19, 2014 01:31
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For things like clear coats for decals and matte coats for ...matte coating, can you eventually clean it off to paint the kit later?
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Mar 19, 2014 03:37
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BlitzBlast posted:Future will cleanly wipe away with any ammonia-based cleaner (read: Windex), while typical matte coats can be scrubbed away if you soak them overnight in 90%+ iso alcohol. Do either of these harm the underlying plastic?
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Mar 19, 2014 04:52
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BlitzBlast posted:If they did I would have said it. Sorry. 
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Mar 19, 2014 04:55
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Are any of the NGs decent, or are pretty much all of them poo poo?
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Mar 20, 2014 03:09
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BlitzBlast posted:You want big legs? I hope she's worth the shipping costs.
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Mar 20, 2014 23:27
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The Leper Colon V posted:Hm... I wonder if there's a way to use Future, and then intentionally frost the plastic slightly. That seems like it'd make a cool effect. Some high grit sandpaper miiiight work? I forget whether or not you can make it more glasslike by essentially polishing with higher grit sandpaper, but you can definitely create a frosted effect.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:35
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So I have an x-acto knife, a pair of nippers, a .5 and .3 pencil for panel lining, an eraser, sandpaper for seam lines and mold lines, and sanding sticks for the nubs, both in grits from 320 to 2500. I'm holding off on any sort of topcoat since I'm planning on painting the kit eventually, and plastic cement since I'll likely want to take it apart. Is there anything else I need before I begin assembly?
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Mar 24, 2014 21:59
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Blackchamber posted:It seems a little like a waste to just use it for markers sitting in a drawer. I thought maybe someone would see it and immediately know of a better use. If you add some more dividers, it'd make a nice little case to store spare/alternate parts for your kits. Cutting it up something like that just sounds really terrible.
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Mar 25, 2014 13:03
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TheManSeries posted:Alright. I didn't know they were in that range. I'm not against spending that money, I just didn't know that it was really about that much. Are there pros and cons to airbrush vs spray paint? In my limited experience, it's the ability to mix your own colors and formulas, and better control over the airflow. Gunpla can be done with spraypaint, but getting to the point where you can do detail work takes a lot of practice. This guy works entirely in spraypaint, if you're interested in pursuing this route. However, he's mentioned that honestly, with all the money he's spent on cans, he probably could've bought an airbrush.
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Apr 1, 2014 02:18
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The Muffinlord posted:How much space would you recommend having for an airbrush? Also, is there any alternative to an electric compressor that's worth trying? We moved into a new townhouse and I'd like to convert the basement to my project space, but the floor is just painted concrete and the walls are painted cinder block, so the whole room just amplifies sound dramatically. As long as you have one of those filter fan setups, the name is escaping me, you have enough space. Really, the worry is whether or not you're gonna be able to ventilate, and in a basement, having a good setup is gonna be essential. Honestly electric compressors are probably the best way to go. I'd recommend one of those lawnmower earmuff things, and combined with a quieter compressor, that should eliminate most of the sound.
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Apr 1, 2014 02:31
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The Muffinlord posted:You mean fresh air, right? I could fashion some sort of vent for one of the short windows in here, but it might not be ideal. Maybe I'll just use brushes for now. You want to construct an actual spray booth.
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Apr 1, 2014 02:32
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BlitzBlast posted:All of the Turn A kits are getting a re-release to welcome HGCC Turn A. Unfortunately they all suck, but if you really wanted a 1/144 Kapool then here's your chance. is the Kapool really that bad?
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Apr 4, 2014 19:58
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BlitzBlast posted:It's literally only three runners, it was made in 1999. Like all old kits you can make it look decent with some painting (gunpla has always been pretty great with surface detail), but if you want to do anything with it you're out of luck. With some improvement to the articulation, that seems like it'd be a really cool kit, to be honest. I might pick one up. It's a light kit, right? So shipping on it shouldn't be all that bad?
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Apr 4, 2014 20:11
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Speaking of older kits, how's the 1/144 Fuunsaiki and Master Gundam kit?
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Apr 5, 2014 04:15
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TaurusOxford posted:HGFC Master Gundam is very solid. Fuunsaiki however is a glorified display stand, but it it compatible with HGFC God Gundam if you'd prefer Domon get the horse. How're the legs on the Fuunsaiki?
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Apr 5, 2014 04:20
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TaurusOxford posted:Limited articulation, but it doesn't matter anyway. Fuunsaiki was not designed to be posed in any way besides what's shown in promotional shots(hence the small stand that connects underneath Fuunsaiki). If you were hoping for Fuunsaiki to be able to stand on all four legs without help, it won't work without major modifications. I was more thinking about using the legs to make an awesome faun gundam, to be quite honest. I haven't even gotten around to building the Miss Sazabi yet and I'm already fantasizing about custom builds. I think I have a problem.
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Apr 5, 2014 04:33
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UncleRadnor posted:Hah, like Build Fighters or Gundam Breaker Since you don't have PMs, could you maybe send me an email at ? I'd be interested in practicing cleaning up and repairing unpainted kits. Don't really have much money to spare at the moment, but I'm sure I can get some within a few weeks. everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Apr 8, 2014 05:38
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UncleRadnor posted:List of awesome things. Are all of these painted?
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Apr 8, 2014 13:08
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Looking over (and googling most of those since I have no idea what they are,) I'm likely interested in the Genoace and the everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 8, 2014 |
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Apr 8, 2014 14:18
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Neddy Seagoon posted:I'd recommend against getting that HG Union Flag unless you really really like them. The kit has no polycaps and the legs tend to be a bit floppy as a result. I might replace that with the HGUC Jesta, then. Speaking of polycaps, does Bandai sell polycap conversion kits for older sets? Or just like a bunch of spare polycaps?
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Apr 8, 2014 16:17
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Does anybody here use the pin-vise method for making the female slot for connector pegs wider? If so, what size bits do you end up using?
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Apr 28, 2014 01:03
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TARDISman posted:
God if they weren't so expensive I'd buy them in a heartbeat. Speaking of Turn A, a package finally arrived!  Can't wait for exams to be over to finish the Miss Sazabi and start on this.
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May 6, 2014 04:43
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Did they ever produce any Zanscare kits besides the 1/144 Abigor? Some of these head designs are absolutely gorgeous.
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May 7, 2014 03:30
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So, what kind of files do people use? I've been working on the Miss Sazabi off and on (mostly off, now, since I horribly mangled the v-fin by accident and even though I salvaged it through meticulous cleanup I'm nervous about starting on the rest of the kit) and am finding that I am really wanting for an alternative to a knife at times. I'd imagine the Tamiya files are good, but the 6mm wide one isn't available for prime and the cheapest I can get it involves me importing it from Japan (and it'd still be cheaper and arrive faster than the ones on Amazon.)
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May 24, 2014 22:31
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