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powderific posted:What's another good source for used lenses now that KEH has gone downhill? B&H and Adorama both have a pretty extensive selection of used gear. I've had good experiences with B&H's used department - the only time I decided to return something, the process was quick an painless.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 21:08 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 23:31 |
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Just got a d750. It's use will mostly be kid pictures. We were using a Sigma 30 non art on our old canon xsi previously. What 50 mm prime to get for new camera? Sigma art? Nikkor 50 1.8?
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 22:00 |
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Hdip posted:Just got a d750. It's use will mostly be kid pictures. We were using a Sigma 30 non art on our old canon xsi previously. What 50 mm prime to get for new camera? Sigma art? Nikkor 50 1.8? Whatever is cheapest. This is literally the cheapest lens you can buy. Hell, get it second hand and you can't go wrong. Also since you're doing kid photography, learn to shoot with shutter priority and autofocus lock (for when there's herds of kids and the AF loses its poo poo). You'll find that the sensor in the d750 is so loving awesome you'll never use a flash and your photos at 6400 ISO look sharp as hell.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 22:15 |
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namaste faggots posted:Whatever is cheapest. Also aperture prio with min speed set owns all. gently caress that shutter prio silliness.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 23:10 |
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evil_bunnY posted:This. I have a 1.8 on a d800 and love it. That's gonna get you a whole bunch of blurry toddler photos
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 01:03 |
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What is minimum speed in this case? Lowest iso? Shutter priority is exactly what you need for kids, birds, and other fast-moving subjects IMO.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 01:14 |
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It depends on the light but I usually go with 1/100 when the kid's walking around. Anything faster for a vigorous game of chase the woodland creatures. Just keep an eye on your iso because people on Flickr or 500px will make fun of you for taking pics at 128000 iso like a newb
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 02:03 |
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Not if you dose the kids with Nikonyl first, the latest in Nikons line of photo accessories. Want them to sit still for one goddamn second to take a photo? Want that thousand yard Sear Portrait Studio stare? Try Nikonyl! Cause kids are jerks.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 02:04 |
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You can pick all of that stuff in the auto ISO menu. Max iso, what minimum shutter speed to shoot for, etc.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 02:18 |
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Hdip posted:Just got a d750. It's use will mostly be kid pictures. We were using a Sigma 30 non art on our old canon xsi previously. What 50 mm prime to get for new camera? Sigma art? Nikkor 50 1.8? I also have the D750 and the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 is so friggin' good for the money it's almost criminal.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 09:45 |
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SMERSH Mouth posted:What is minimum speed in this case? Lowest iso? namaste faggots posted:That's gonna get you a whole bunch of blurry toddler photos Nikon bodies let you specify a minimum shutter speed. So you stick that in your auto-iso options (along with the max Iso you're comfy with) and you retain creative control while making sure your kids aren't blurry.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 09:48 |
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I have mine set based on focal length too using that, rather than a static shutter speed that doesn't change regardless of what lens I have strapped on. It uses the standard 'Nikon chart of confusion' control but I think each click left/right related to a 1/3 stop from memory. I still dig Auto ISO for general all purpose shooting, but you have to mentally know how it works and it's caveats. Doesn't usually lead me astray anyway, due to the safety features like minimum shutter.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 09:57 |
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evil_bunnY posted:This. I have a 1.8 on a d800 and love it. I also use this combo, the nifty fifty delivers surprising quality for the price.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 16:55 |
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I got a D5500 with the 10-55 kit lens. As a total neophyte how long should I expect productive learning from the kit lens, and should the next (probably only for some time) be the Roki B fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Sep 26, 2016 |
# ? Sep 26, 2016 03:51 |
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You could be happy with the kit lens forever, it all depends what you like shooting. The advantage of getting a prime lens is typically they have a larger aperture which gives you that nice shallow depth of field which is appealing for portraits and also gives you more flexibility when shooting in low light situations. You may also eventually want a longer zoom lens if you find that 55 isn't suiting your needs (maybe a 55-200), if you want to shoot more sports or wildlife for example.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 03:59 |
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If all you are doing is street / urban photography you would probably never need to take that kit lens off.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 06:07 |
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The kit lens is great. The lack of a fast aperture is it's only lacking feature, but that's no big deal really. A good focal range for DX, and IS to boot. Never saw the point of selling mine even after I replaced it with better quality glass, it's small and light enough that I'm sure I'll find use for it again.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 06:34 |
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but what about my ~~~bokeh~~~
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 06:37 |
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That's good to hear, thank you. Also wondering because I expect overcast and rain to be the majority of shooting and while I read Nikon has the better ISO noise quality, I have no inherent understanding of if it will have sufficient speed or aperture.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 10:02 |
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Has anyone tried the sigma 1401 teleconverter on the 150-600 C lens, or the nikon 70-200? I don't really need even more reach, but it would be fun to get.EL BROMANCE posted:I have mine set based on focal length too using that, rather than a static shutter speed that doesn't change regardless of what lens I have strapped on. It uses the standard 'Nikon chart of confusion' control but I think each click left/right related to a 1/3 stop from memory. I still dig Auto ISO for general all purpose shooting, but you have to mentally know how it works and it's caveats. Doesn't usually lead me astray anyway, due to the safety features like minimum shutter. I've just been figuring things out as I go the last year, but what I ended up using since april / may which seems to work well is setting shutter + aperture manually, with autoISO on, and keeping an eye on the iso to see if I can go for more DOF/shutter or not. I'm mostly limited by subject motion though, and not camera shake. So when I have pseudo static subjects I'll go down to 1/500th or so, and when they are running / climbing / playing I stay above 1/2000th and try and get a good compromise between DOF and ISO by setting the aperture manually, depending on distance and scenery. Roki B posted:That's good to hear, thank you. Also wondering because I expect overcast and rain to be the majority of shooting and while I read Nikon has the better ISO noise quality, I have no inherent understanding of if it will have sufficient speed or aperture. Without knowing what you are taking photos of, e.g. the expected shutter speed, it is hard to say.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 12:15 |
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I'm just curious, but why was there no D400? Why did the naming jump to D500?
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 14:16 |
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My 3 theories: 1. Length of time between D300 and the new model and they wanted it to be seen as a big upgrade 2. Developed by the same team who made Winamp 3. Desire to avoid the number 4, which is unlucky in Japan. Probably the 3rd, in all truth.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 14:43 |
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I thought the D300 was released to match the D3, so D500 to match the D5, and they didn't make one to match the D4.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 15:08 |
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Yeah that makes more sense than my theories.
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# ? Sep 26, 2016 15:34 |
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Anyone here have personal experience upgrading from the D7000 to the D7200. I'm thinking of making the jump.
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 09:35 |
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So, this happened courtesy of my cats. Fell from pretty high onto the tiled floor. The damage on the sigma is obvious, but I'm wondering what are my options for the poor D7000 The viewfinder has gone a little dark, and there's a bit of rattling inside. It's out of warranty, guess I'm hosed? I was going to replace it within a few months but I'd hoped to keep it for landscape photos.
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# ? Dec 20, 2016 23:07 |
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Warranty wouldn't have covered drop damage anyway? If it's US market you can send it in to Nikon for repair anyway and see what they quote you. There may be cheaper repair options depending on what the problem is.
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# ? Dec 20, 2016 23:23 |
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A used D7000 goes for like $350 US, I am willing to bet a repair cost would be way higher than that.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 00:15 |
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Alright, guess that's that for it. Thanks D7000, you survived six years of travel abuse only to fall to my cats. I'll pick up a D500 after my next pay check.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:50 |
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Six years is not a bad run for a DSLR. Sucks about the lens, though.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 20:49 |
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TequilaJesus posted:Anyone here have personal experience upgrading from the D7000 to the D7200. I'm thinking of making the jump. I have a D7000 and have had for about 5 years, I bought my wife a D7200 recently. The 7200 is better in every way (clearer photos, faster focus, more focus points, adds a bunch of features like wifi, etc) and it shows. I plan to get one, or, timing allowing, get the updated version which is out, when my 7k dies. I can't find the specs right now, but I recall that the 7100 didn't appeal to me because the buffer held less frames (because it was the same buffer size with increased image size, but the 7200 didn't have that issue.
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# ? Dec 23, 2016 22:52 |
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It's way past time for me to move to a full frame body for my professional work, I'm looking at the d750 but I'd imagine it's about to be replaced. Is now a bad time to make this purchase?
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# ? Dec 24, 2016 20:05 |
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Wait for the D400.
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# ? Dec 24, 2016 21:42 |
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D810
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# ? Dec 24, 2016 23:22 |
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Business of Ferrets posted:Wait for the D400. Sage advice
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# ? Dec 24, 2016 23:55 |
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Karl Barks posted:It's way past time for me to move to a full frame body for my professional work, I'm looking at the d750 but I'd imagine it's about to be replaced. Is now a bad time to make this purchase? I made the switch to full-frame the day the D750 came out and love it. Especially the low-light performance is phenomenal. However, for my portrait and product shoots I wish I had the extra resolution of the D810 for that extra detail. I was hoping Nikon would announce a 36MP+ D760 or a 50MP D820 at Photokina, but all we got were lovely action cams Rent a D750 and a D810 for a weekend, shoot what you'd use a new camera for and decide from there.
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# ? Dec 25, 2016 15:14 |
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Caryna posted:I made the switch to full-frame the day the D750 came out and love it. Especially the low-light performance is phenomenal. However, for my portrait and product shoots I wish I had the extra resolution of the D810 for that extra detail. I was hoping Nikon would announce a 36MP+ D760 or a 50MP D820 at Photokina, but all we got were lovely action cams Yeah, that's a good idea - I'll rent a D750 until whatever the next model is comes out. The D810 seems too big to me, but couldn't hurt trying it out for an event or two. Thanks!
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# ? Dec 26, 2016 03:20 |
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So I bought a Nikon 50mm 1.4D, and I have a question. It seems to focus very soft, most of the time, but sometimes it's incredibly sharp (within the DoF). I've fine-tuned the focus on my body (D7000), and I've tried shooting at different apertures. The fine tuning helped some, the different apertures don't seem to. Is this a known thing? Is there anything I can do?
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# ? Dec 27, 2016 08:11 |
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Sounds like you're missing focus. Are you using AF-A, AF-S, or AF-C? Backbutton focus? Could be making the exposure before it's fully locked on. If you use liveview to focus, do the results improve? Could be a misaligned phase-detect autofocus module
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# ? Dec 27, 2016 10:44 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 23:31 |
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Photozone claims to have observed some focus shift with that lens, so if you're getting sharp focus wide-open and weirdness at smaller apertures, that's probably why. AF Fine Tune can't (usefully) correct for focus shift; it's an inherent property of the lens as it gets more stopped down. If you can figure out whether the focus is consistently off and in which direction, you might be able to correct for it by practicing moving the camera forward/back to compensate once the AF system claims to have focus. Depending on whether the lens was new or used, you might also have a misaligned or decentered lens element but that seems far less likely than focus shift. Sadly, super-speed primes tend to exhibit focus shift worst of all so it's something you just have to be aware of regardless of lens.
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# ? Dec 27, 2016 16:56 |