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Kastein: I has posted a while back about the a340f transmission in my 4runner. You had asked what it does with the connection unplugged. This is basically the manual shift test, which in my case follows the L:1st, 2:3rd, D:OD as per what I've seen in the manual (for a 93 but should be similar link: https://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-Buchanan/93fsm/autotrans.html). The transmission shifts as in the manual test. Lately the symptoms have been that it shifts normally but after driving for maybe 15 minutes it will not shift from O/D if the button is on or 3rd if its not with the lever in D or 3rd with the lever in 2. With the lever in L it sometimes starts in 1st but usually is in 2nd. I have tested the solenoid resistance at the ECT connector and they all tested at around 12 ohms. Spec is 11-15. With the weird behavior my first thought is the solenoids even with them checking out resistance wise. However I do not really feel like throwing parts at it. What are your thoughts?
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Apr 8, 2014 17:25
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kastein posted:I am not sure a 5.9 is worth the amount of time and money it will take to put it in the vehicle. The 5.9 is not really a bad motor, but the power gains over the 4.0 with out all the additional work wouldn't be worth it. For you to make it worth it, its V10 or nothing. 
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Apr 8, 2014 17:35
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Find me a V10 for under 500 bucks complete with everything to run it and I just might. Those drat things are expensive  Timmy Cruise posted:Kastein: I has posted a while back about the a340f transmission in my 4runner. You had asked what it does with the connection unplugged. This is basically the manual shift test, which in my case follows the L:1st, 2:3rd, D:OD as per what I've seen in the manual (for a 93 but should be similar link: https://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-Buchanan/93fsm/autotrans.html). The transmission shifts as in the manual test. Sounds like solenoids to me as well, gut feeling, but I would recommend putting a test light on the solenoid drive wires and driving it till it fails while keeping an eye on them. Or putting a full manual electronic shifter setup on it temporarily, basically two toggle switches to power or disconnect the solenoids, then run to failure, switch to manual mode, and see if it works.
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Apr 8, 2014 18:01
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kastein posted:Find me a V10 for under 500 bucks complete with everything to run it and I just might. Those drat things are expensive Thanks. I may do the toggle switches (with a third for the tc lockup) just because it would be kinda fun. On off. On on. Off on. Off off. Or something like that.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:45
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A nice setup could be built with a 3PDT toggle switch, a few relays, an SPST toggle switch, and a 2P4T rotary switch, actually. 3PDT to select auto vs manual control (switches 3 solenoid wires from TCU to manual switches), the SPST switch for torque converter lockup, the relays to manage torque converter lockup (prevent it from locking in any gear except 3/OD and unlock when brake lights active), and the 2P4T rotary to select gears. I had part of that built for testing purposes while figuring out how to lobotomize the OBD2 support on the late-model XJ TCU, but then I swapped an AX15/R151F into my test mule so that project came to an end. 
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Apr 9, 2014 01:53
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If I end up changing to a manual set up long term I would do that. Maybe that radesigns shifter. But for the  three switches are worth its cheap diagnosis.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:00
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Still on the fence about the 5.9... I have it sitting there either way. Friend offered to buy it off me if I decide to use something else, so there's that. In related news, he also gave me the spare 8.25 he was going to scrap that has a broken-off cross shaft retention bolt in it, which keeps you from ever getting the axleshafts out or doing anything inside the diff. One loving 5/16" head bolt breaking means you're stuck, it's an awesome design. Fortunately I was planning on throwing a limited slip in it anyways (this was originally going to be part of the mantrans swap and engine recondition megaproject I did a few weeks ago, but I thought better of it) so that means I am free to just cut things with an angle grinder until it comes apart as long as I don't damage the ring gear or axleshafts. He also happened to mention that he's parting out a totaled XJ that got T-boned. As of tonight I've agreed to buy the entire chassis from midway through the front door openings forward, intact, minus the drivetrain and pedal box. The dashboard/interior/wiring parts will be stockpiled until I put the late-model interior into the 5.9/??? MJ eventually; in the meantime, the bare front cut will be used for drivetrain fitment testing. This way if I have to cut into and redo portions of the firewall and HVAC box, I can do it on a basically-free donor chassis first instead of having to get it right the first time on the MJ, then just make stencils off the end result and copy it to the MJ chassis. How much am I paying for this giant pile of jeep parts? $50 Oh yeah, I bought another 88 MJ for its chassis, too. I've come to terms with the fact that the white 91 MJ is simply too broken and rotted to be worth repairing, I could spend months worth of evenings cursing rotted bent sheetmetal and fixing it and end up with an inferior vehicle anyways. A friend offered me a drat near dent and rust free 88 MJ (RWD, 4.0/auto) in roller condition with no bed for $350, so I bought it and will be armoring, frame plating, and possibly caging it, then dropping my drivetrain, any other missing parts, a spare bed I have in the yard, and my suspension on it. I didn't really feel bad about beating the hell out of the white one because it was already a terminal car cancer patient, but this one's too nice to destroy in a hurry, so it gets built right first. Picked up a new set of baby MTs for the DD toilet XJ and I'm currently debating whether I should go with weld-on rim stiffening rings for it or actual beadlocks. It's going to be funny if I end up with beadlocks on my DD before I put them on the trail rig
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Apr 11, 2014 04:20
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Ken I'm going to be starting to strip our XJ soon for the CJ project. You could probably have the 8.25 in it since the CJ has a rear 44 already.
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Apr 11, 2014 15:41
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Thanks, but I have an 8.25 strapped to the back of my XJ right now I may be interested in it but you should probably toss it on the trading post for $100 and then make fun of all the low ballers who want it for $25 because they have to drive so far to get it.
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Apr 11, 2014 16:15
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kastein posted:Thanks, but I have an 8.25 strapped to the back of my XJ right now But but but.... it's right off the highway!
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Apr 12, 2014 18:06
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Went to a bunch of junkyards today, bought nothing, found nothing worth going back tomorrow for. Oh well. Then I decided to tear down the new-to-me 8.25 I'll be rebuilding for the XJ. I got it for FREE because the cross shaft retainer bolt is broken off in it, which means it's essentially junk unless you feel like butchering the differential carrier to get the cross shaft out, because the carrier won't come out without the axles coming out, which won't come out without the cross shaft coming out... which won't come out without the retention bolt coming out. And the retention bolt's broken off a turn below the surface of the carrier, and jammed. Not a problem, I was going to swap the carrier anyways and own an angle grinder. The plan was: New wheel bearings New axle seals LSD from a Durango swapped in (this solves the butcher-the-carrier problem quite nicely) New carrier bearings New ring gear bolts Once I tore into it, it became clear some sort of debris was jammed in the inner or outer pinion bearing. That means the pinion has to come out and the bearings and housing must be cleaned/flushed to make sure nothing is still in there, and any damaged parts must be replaced. Tore the pinion and pinion yoke out. As a result, add to the list: New pinion bearing preload crush sleeve New pinion nut New pinion seal And possibly (I won't know till it gets light out and I can actually see what's going on) a new outer pinion bearing and race. So rather than finish tonight, it looks like I'm waiting on my next rockauto order delivery. Oh well. Only one decent picture, the rest were either dark or blurry.  BROKEN CROSS SHAFT RETENTION BOLT YOU WILL NOT DENY ME (the sheetmetal is to keep angle grinder dust at least mostly out of the diff housing so it is easier to flush everything out) Everything important is soaking in a 5 gallon pail of gasoline, I'll have to scrub poo poo down and then flush the housing out tomorrow. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 02:00
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kastein posted:A nice setup could be built with a 3PDT toggle switch, a few relays, an SPST toggle switch, and a 2P4T rotary switch, actually. 3PDT to select auto vs manual control (switches 3 solenoid wires from TCU to manual switches), the SPST switch for torque converter lockup, the relays to manage torque converter lockup (prevent it from locking in any gear except 3/OD and unlock when brake lights active), and the 2P4T rotary to select gears. So I set up a couple of switches for the two shift solenoids. Seems to shift like it should and I can get all 4 gears. So to me that points to an electrical issue - does that make sense to you? It really wouldn't surprise me after looking at some of the other wiring. Edit: one of the wiring issues seems to be the diagnostic port where you short two pins and the od light will flash for trouble codes. I tried that a while back but the light doesn't come on during normal operation like it should (OD off), nor does it flash. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 03:15
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Sure sounds like it to me. I have no idea how the Toyota TCU works, unfortunately, I think it's part of the ECU?
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Apr 14, 2014 03:16
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kastein posted:Sure sounds like it to me. I have no idea how the Toyota TCU works, unfortunately, I think it's part of the ECU? No its a completely separate computer you can run the truck with it completely unplugged. I found pins that fit the connector it plugs into for the test switches and plugged into the solenoid pins, so at least the wiring from the computer to the solenoids works. I'm suspecting the speed sensor maybe.
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Apr 14, 2014 03:37
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It could be. Got an oscilloscope? Hang it on the signal line back from the output speed sensor, if it's like an early 90s jeep transmission, you should get one pulse to ground every rotation of the output shaft. Might be different though. My new tires need to get here already. Fedex decided I could wait another day, so they won't be here tomorrow. New windshield trim ring for the XJ along with some other random crap arrives Thursday as well. Since INTERNETRACECAR and I are doing another no-holds-barred dirt drive this weekend (maybe this time we won't get stuck in snow repeatedly...) I'm going to postpone getting a new windshield until after Sunday, might as well put more rock chips on this one instead of chipping up a new one again. I should probably look into getting tear-off windshield film if I'm gonna keep doing this, honestly. PS jeep4x4center can suck a big fat one for randomly deciding to clear my shopping cart, I was about to spend 300 bucks with you fuckasses after spending a few days remembering random parts I needed and you clear my goddamn cart? Good job, now I'm going to spend less money with you because I know I'm forgetting something again  e: vvv nope, this is the second time this has happened to me with them. Fortunately last time I had like 3 items in my cart and easily remembered it all. vvv kastein fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 03:56
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They were probably patching their heartbleed vulnerability and had to restart  They were just trying to help!
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Apr 16, 2014 04:11
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I just liked your comment on the Roadkill Q&A post. It's pretty funny that I just happened to see it. Your idea was great too.
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Apr 17, 2014 04:47
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I know Freiberger is a huge jeep nerd and he definitely knows what an M715 is (one was in the junkyard they visited in a recent episode and he sperged the gently caress out about it!) so here's hoping they actually do one. Guess what just got here?  $480 shipped for 4x 235/75R15 MTs is really not bad. I love me some retreads.
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Apr 17, 2014 18:41
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kastein posted:$480 shipped for 4x 235/75R15 MTs is really not bad. I love me some retreads. Are those treadwrights? I was thinking of trying a set for my heap.
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Apr 17, 2014 20:55
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They are. 235/75R15 Crawlers, I don't remember if I got the C or the P version. I'll let you know how they do, I'm not easy on tires at all so if they wear well it means something. Hopefully going to get them put on tomorrow morning... or just get bored and toss em on myself with the tire spoons after work tonight. I'm not really sure.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:35
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I've had my treadwrights on the jeep for about 2 years now, they have hardly any wear. Love em, great tires.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:41
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I already have a set of their 285/75R16 (roughly a 33x11.5R16) BFG AT knockoffs on my MJ, they were on my old XJ from january '10 through june '11 and then went on the MJ in july '11, been on it ever since. Something like 30-40k on them (at least) now, they're getting pretty worn but still work, though two of them now leak down in a matter of weeks. That's why I got these, hoping I get as much out of this set as I did the last set. The local autozone has 1 gallon of tire mounting lube in stock for $9 so I think I will toss them on after work.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:46
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Well the tires are on! Before:  After:  That was a bit of work, seeing as I have no bead breaking hammer and no tire machine. Video showing the backwoods bead breaking + tire changing methods I use tomorrow, it's still uploading. These tires should be a little more fun than the snows when it comes to mild offroading.
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Apr 18, 2014 05:12
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Well it is technically tomorrow. By the time I was done picking up tools and washing the floor in the shop, it was drat near done uploading, so I just waited. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3lDAUoIpCA Gets real boring at 11:30, until 16:30 or so, then long periods of boring off-camera cursing and banging/dropped tools with a few interesting things in between  "Tire balancing beads" (walmart had no airsoft BBs due to political correctness. So I bought these because gently caress it, why not try it?)  My tires required 180 grams of elephants, seals, lions, whales, hearts, fish, and giraffes to balance correctly.  Good thing we have an accurate scale at work. 
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Apr 18, 2014 06:39
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So last night ken was being all coy not telling us how he was going to balance these drat things.... He did mention that it was going to be pretty redneck/banjo/peopleofwalmart. I open this thread this morning 
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Apr 18, 2014 14:08
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Immediate impressions: Man, I haven't had actual MTs on a jeep since '09, and they were drat near bald. It's been aggressive allterrains since then. I've missed the sound. They balance OK, unless I go obscenely fast. 90+ and they shake a good bit. Not sure if this is because the front left is entirely unbalanced or what, I'm going to dump actual airsoft BBs in it once I get some and see if it evens out. I am really going to miss the way it drove on 205/70R15s. It handled like it was on rails, I could hold 50+ through most four leaf clovers (albeit with the rear starting to slide) and if I dumped it in fourth and stomped on it, I could pass drat near anyone. With 235/75R15s on it, it handles much more like it did stock. Feels very sluggish to me now after doing 25k miles on tiny tires. I may have to regear to 3.73s depending on what these do to my fuel economy. Speaking of which, hoping I get my 22+mpg back with these. My last set of tires were 235s as well and I was routinely pulling 20-22mpg on the highway, due to the high revs to maintain speed the 205s pulled that down a bit. Haven't had a chance to run a few tanks through it yet though so no real idea yet.
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Apr 18, 2014 16:07
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That looks so much better on the new tires. Also, you are a masterful redneck. Bravo.
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Apr 18, 2014 16:22
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Loved the video. Favorite bit was around 6:30; *flips wheel/tire over* *KLANG!* ... *lifts up wheel/tire to check for damage*. Also all of the off-camera swearing, sounds exactly like when I work on stuff. Also, I do the exact same lug-nut torquing method when an actual torque-wrench isn't available. Never had an issue with it yet.
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Apr 18, 2014 16:55
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That was actually me checking to make sure I didn't put a divot in the epoxy floor  I don't give a gently caress about those wheels. Every single one has rock damage on the lip, and they're pretty corroded at this point too. Trying to get beads to seat without all the normal tricks is a pain in the rear end. Luckily these tires are just a little wide for the rims so three of them seated without much difficulty, a few kicks to half-seat one side, then gingerly push the wheel the other way and get some air in it before it comes off either side. The last one was just a cast iron bastard about it for some reason, I must have tried five or six times before I got it.
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Apr 18, 2014 17:00
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Damnit man, now I want a big box jeep that I can beat the gently caress out of and not give a poo poo. Compared to this working on my car is loving surgery.
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Apr 18, 2014 17:51
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kastein posted:Well it is technically tomorrow. By the time I was done picking up tools and washing the floor in the shop, it was drat near done uploading, so I just waited. OK, I think I see what you're doing here - you're creating a dynamic balancer, like some harmonic balancers, but how do you determine how much weight to use? edit: you sound like I do when something's being a bitch. "Extended automotive repair vocabulary" indeed.
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Apr 18, 2014 19:25
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It's actually just like regular tire self-balancing beads, they just happen to be somewhat decorative. You dump them in the tire and they do their thing. There are charts available that tell you how much to use, I converted it from ounces to grams and rounded up to the next ten gram increment. It actually doesn't really matter as long as you have more than enough and not ridiculously more than needed.
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Apr 18, 2014 19:44
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Do you hear them rolling around in there at all?
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Apr 18, 2014 20:27
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kastein posted:Well the tires are on! This is fantastic. I watched it. My dad watched it. It was great fun.
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Apr 19, 2014 01:35
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You probably had more fun than I did though I was getting pretty decent at it by the fourth time. Just fixed the p-brake, lesson learned, Dorman p-brake cables are poo poo tier (I used a Dorman last time I tried to fix it and it fell apart while I was installing it, had to ziptie the end clip on) and the other cable was broken. Adjusted the rear drums until they just barely dragged, then adjusted the p-brake adjuster (after installing two new cables, the cab to splitter cable was fine still so that new one goes on the shelf as a spare) until it barely dragged more and backed it off a few turns. It will now stall the jeep out idling along on level ground in first gear. $30 well spent, now I'm one step closer to actually passing inspection with this turd.
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Apr 19, 2014 02:56
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15:41 is my favorite part. Also it's why I totally don't feel guilty about the fact that I pay someone else to deal with loving tires.
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Apr 19, 2014 04:59
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I'm envisioning one of your coworkers wandering around finding a bead here and there wondering where they gently caress they came from before someone tells them "Ken was changing his tires" followed by a long pause from the bead finder before they went "Ok, sure, fine, whatever that doesn't make any sense but it makes complete loving sense."
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Apr 19, 2014 05:07
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Wouldn't surprise me at all So I like these tires. Not sure on tread wear yet, but... I installed an accelerometer app on my cellphone and whipped it through a cloverleaf near work a half dozen times. Peak sustained lateral acceleration: 0.95G The tires were talking quite a bit, and I slid a little, but never completely broke free.I'm not sure a Cherokee on 235/75R15 mudterrains is supposed to do that. That's a corrected number, BTW, the accelerometer app claimed gravity (same axis of phone I used pointing straight down at the ground, stationary) is ~10.1m/s2, my peak lateral acceleration was ~9.75m/s2. I added a slight fudge factor for the fact that "lateral" in a jeep cornering like that is kinda like "the mast is vertical" on a tacking sailboat. I'm still not sure I trust that number entirely, but there's no loving way it was under 0.8-0.85 or so, even just based on the "I have to use the steering wheel to keep from sliding into the door" butt-accelerometer method of measurement. If anyone has more accurate instrumentation or wants to ride along and call bullshit, it's more than welcome. The oh-poo poo handle isn't torn off this jeep (yet.) kastein fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 06:16
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kastein posted:The oh-poo poo handle isn't torn off this jeep (yet.) Either all of your riding buddies are smart enough not to get in the jeep with you or you're not trying hard enough
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Apr 19, 2014 06:30
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 16:31 |
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So a coworker (NOT the one who bought the Maxima and Eldorado; he got canned awhile back) picked up a Cherokee. 4.0, automatic, but sadly, 2WD. From his next door neighbor. Straight body, tired interior (saggy headliner, front seat is pretty beat), no rust, working a/c, $1800. I'd call that a decent deal. Not the deal of the year, but working a/c and a 4.0 that isn't knocking? Not too bad. I wouldn't mind having it myself. Didn't ask how many miles were on it, but I didn't hear any knocks escaping, nor did it blow any smoke, so it's probably somewhere south of 300k. Coworker claims it's a 95.
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Apr 19, 2014 10:33
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