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Is there a place I can bug you about your truck crane? I'm thinking of building one for my little truck and want to get your input on it. Here? Facebook? Email?
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Jul 22, 2014 06:17
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Cakefool posted:Wait, what? 4wd turbo-ej22-powered amphibious fanboat with on-the-fly engagement of dual propellers for flawless land-to-sea transitions.
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Jul 22, 2014 09:39
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mafoose posted:Is there a place I can bug you about your truck crane? Here or facebook is fine, I have a bunch of photos from its construction on my facebook somewhere. Propeller: I want to build an ej22 bottom end, ej25 heads, ??? Turbo engine, make an adapter plate and shafting to fit some of a jeep/dodge np231 to it as a PSRU, and strap a prop to it. Just need some time with an optical comparator or a lot of careful measuring to design the adapter plate and new tailhousing for the gearbox so everything is concentric. I already bought an ej22E a while ago and just got all the heads and intake and stuff. And I have an ECU sitting around from god knows what.
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Jul 22, 2014 10:58
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Air propeller or water propeller? I know this would usually be a stupid question, but ... you know.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:17
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Air. Boats are just holes in the water to throw money into (I have enough places to throw my money) and I prefer to not drown.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:30
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kastein posted:Air. Boats are just holes in the water to throw money into (I have enough places to throw my money) and I prefer to not drown. Could be for both.  (Yes, that is an $8000 reduction unit on the back of that with one stump puller prop and a counter rotating regular prop.) 
Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 16:36
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kastein posted:Air. Boats are just holes in the water to throw money into (I have enough places to throw my money) and I prefer to not drown. I'm more afraid of the "air" answer, myself.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:43
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You don't have a FARO arm or a CMM at your work? That would be the best way to measure a bell housing. Otherwise you'd have to have a huge optical comparator. Another way is to use a knee mill with a DRO and a test indicator. You sweep an arbitrary hole as your origin and go from there. You probably want to preserve the centerline so another way with the mill is to turn a spud that fits on the centering ring in the bell housing, sweep that as your origin, crank the knee down and then sweep the rest of the holes. You'd have to make sure your knee mill is perpendicular or else when you move it down you'll introduce error.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:52
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Wow. How did I not read this thread before. So.... any way I can teleport all the unrusty jeeps from my area to yours?????
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Jul 22, 2014 18:05
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I wish, but people here want to pay rusty-jeep prices even if the vehicle is clean. Not worth it.mafoose posted:You don't have a FARO arm or a CMM at your work? That would be the best way to measure a bell housing. Otherwise you'd have to have a huge optical comparator. Nope, we don't really have a use for one. We do have a bridgeport for quick prototyping and jig production but it's got... significant play in it. You have a very good idea though, I'll see what I can gin up. And it looks like I may not need to do any of that measuring myself, here's a pre-existing pattern I found via google: http://www.electricsubaru.com/adapter/drawingHousing.png The NP231 pattern is harder to find accurate drawings of, but it's a circle with 6 bolts somewhat irregularly located on it. I can deal with that myself pretty easily since I have a pile of them sitting around. The bolt circle doesn't locate the case, the holes are pretty loose, it's a machined circular seat on the transmission and a matching machined circular male shoulder on the transfer case. The NP231 input is 23 spline, don't have a flange pattern for the EJ22/25 crank but I have one sitting in the yard so that problem is easily solved. If 23 spline isn't strong enough I can get a 27 spline input out of various Chevy cases, as well as a 6 gear planetary set that increases the planetary strength significantly over the 3 planetary in the jeep case. This also results in the spline being exactly the same as a dana 30, dana 35, or 96.0 and down chrysler 27 spline axleshaft spline, as well as (I believe) chrysler 8.25 pinion yokes and NP231 output slip yoke shafts. That might be a good idea simply because I will be able to use a long section of NP231 output shaft as a spud shaft to connect a single custom crank flange with a bolt circle and an EDMed or broached inner spline to hook the engine to the transfer case instead of having to get a custom shaft done or something  I need to think about this more. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 19:16
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Still thinking about the NP231J/C based PSRU box design. In the meantime, my M10x1.25 helicoil thread repair kit and exhaust manifold studs arrived in the mail today. So I decided it was time to prepare the cylinder heads. From seeing the things chrisgt and Slow Is Fast complain about going wrong on their Subarus I knew the manifold studs were a pain in the rear end on a regular basis and tend to only strip out once the engine is in the car, the worst time to install helicoils, so I decided to nip the problem in the bud while I could still lazily plop the heads on my awesome drill press (thanks Disgruntled Bovine!) and work in comfort. Wrapped up freshly flycut cylinder head.  Pull the old nasty studs out.  They came out pretty easily for me with a pair of channel locks but you may need a pair of vise grips, heat, and/or a stud remover if they're seized in. These ones weren't bad, I probably could have gotten away without doing this but I'd rather play it safe.  Drilling the holes out (ignore my lack of safety equipment) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRjredUdL-k Tapping the holes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqNvN_Pqbzc youtube video description posted:Steps: Helicoil kit, loctite 242  Freshly drilled and heilcoil-tapped hole. Make sure to hose the holes out with acetone so they're dry and clean and the loctite sticks.   Apply loctite, don't go too crazy with it.  Load helicoil into applicator, spin onto threaded driver until it engages the drive tang. Continue to spin into plastic driver housing until about half of the first turn sticks out the business end.  Apply liberally to cylinder head while holding the plastic so it doesn't spin. Not letting the driver (it slots into a regular old tap wrench) spring back on every twist helps a lot, too.  Fin  Muuuuch better. Stainless and loctited in, these aren't corroding or going anywhere anytime soon.  Last step is to break the drive tang off... I am waiting till the loctite cures before doing that. The rest of my EJ22E bottom end + EJ25 SOHC dual-port top end hybrid motor parts show up tomorrow. List: 91 4-bolt EJ22E shortblock 00 EJ251 dual port (not siamesed ports like the EJ222) heads MLS STI head gaskets full timing set all valve cover gaskets etc cam, crank seals new flywheel bolts from Subaru (they're only like 86 cents each - shockingly cheap!) hydraulic timing belt tensioner bracket from the EJ251 donor (the old EJ22 requires this being swapped on to make the proper tensioner fit) new exhaust studs intake and all electronics from 00 5MT EJ251 Forester L crank sprocket timing belt rollback preventer from 00 5MT EJ251 Forester L other poo poo I'm forgetting Putting this bastard together is going to be fun, I've never done a proper-ish motor build. Oh god, I forgot to check if the oil pan on the EJ22 has a loving hole punched in it from the junkyard draining the oil. Here's hoping it doesn't. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jul 24, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 02:22
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that loctite isn't going to do poo poo. Regular loctite, like what you used, is made to be removed by heating it to 400° F. You need high temp thread locker (I know McMaster sells it). You can break the drive tangs off whenever you want, it should take almost no force and it won't mess with the loctite. Also why did you choose helicoils over inserts? On the mill, check to see how the DRO is mounted. Most of them are mounted in such a way that the mill can be super sloppy but their readouts are still accurate. I wouldn't trust going by just the graduations on the knobs on a sloppy mill, but one with a DRO should be fine.
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Jul 24, 2014 04:12
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Thanks! I'd rather find out now than when it's together. I *think* that area of the head will be well under 300F since the studs are apparently very close to water jackets, but I could be wrong. The only time I care about it holding is when it's cold and I'm working on it, so as long as heating the engine up and not touching the studs won't burn the loctite out of there completely, I'm fine I think. Basically I just don't want the helicoils coming out of the head along with the stud, and I won't be touching them when it's hot. As for the bridgeport - yeah the handles are sloppy as gently caress, I am not sure if the DRO is accurate or not. I know it is as long as you only read it while moving in one direction, since that keeps the play in the leadscrews from affecting things  I'll have to mess with it and find out for sure before I use it for anything important. I chose helicoils over inserts due to price - a helicoil set was 40 bucks, a timesert set was well over 100.
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Jul 24, 2014 04:17
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You should be OK, as long as the drilling was well done (which is probably the case with that drill press) and the tapping too. I'm pretty sure thread fit between the helicoil and head is tighter then the helicoil to bolt/stud. Just don't bottom out the stud on the head and crank the poo poo out of it. Buy new hardware, most of the newer Japanese stuff seems really low grade. I highly recommend those copper coated flanged stover nuts like BMW and Porsche use, and they're fairly inexpensive on eBay.
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Jul 24, 2014 06:24
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I've done the inserts under the car with a regular drill and anger. Ken's setup is way better than what I did and the one I did is holding out fine. 10 years of new england winters really like to gently caress up those exhaust studs. I run skidplates and wash my cars, no issues after putting new studs in. I have two more I need to put inserts in on my wagon and the RS needs just studs screwed into 4 holes as right now it's rocking the rusty bolt/nut combo. I also prefer to do my 11/32 drilling shallow. The insert isn't long enough to fill the hole as deep as it is factory and I really didn't want to hit the water jacket.
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Jul 24, 2014 13:37
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I probably should have thought of that, but I didn't. I figured I'd never get the new threads at the top aligned with the old threads at the bottom if I didn't drill em all out though, my luck isn't that good. So I went all the way to the bottom and was just very careful to stop when I felt the drill bit bottom out, because chrisgt warned me that drilling too deep would
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Jul 24, 2014 14:44
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The solution is to get spare heads from me OR RTV THE gently caress out of it and sell the motor/car :v Two years later someone will go to drop the header, the stud will come out, and they will cry forever as coolant is coming out.
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Jul 24, 2014 15:52
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Slow is Fast posted:The solution is to get spare heads from me OR RTV THE gently caress out of it and sell the motor/car :v schadenfreude goes full circle.
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Jul 24, 2014 15:56
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All my parts showed up so this should be fun. Oil pan doesn't have a hole drilled in it, either 
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Jul 25, 2014 04:26
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Slow Is Fast came down to pick up his new racecar doors, go junkyarding, and help me build a stupid motor. Tore the EJ22E down, they are pretty simple beasts. Pan off, intake off, heads off. bores are still mint, crosshatching visible on all 4, very minor bore scuffing at the bottom of one hole. Block faces look beautiful, no leakage, factoy machining still visible so I just cleaned em up carefully (razor scraper - always drag on alloy, pushing is for the suicidal or those with iron blocks!) And stuck the EJ251 heads on with the MLS gaskets. I agree with Slow Is Fast, the torque sequence is loving stupid, specifically the 11 foot pound step. The rest makes a fair bit of sense. Valve covers are back on (with new gaskets) and it basically just needs a few things now and it is back together. Somewhat of a scare at one point, I thought I saw metal debris in the oil pan, but it turned out to be nasty sludge deposits reflecting the light from my LED headlamp strangely. Also swapped the timing belt tensioner bracket over too. Old style ones suck it seems. Left to do: intake plugs, wires, hook up wiring, etc knock sensor water pump new crank front seal - was going to leave it alone but it is clearly weeping and I have one on hand. timing set install Replace CPS (it was the old style, need to get a new one) replace driver side timing cover backshell (some idiot broke the poo poo out of it and tried to fix it with jbweld) bolt accessories back on attach clutch and flywheel pan back on, filter, fill with oil Junkyard shopping list: new crank pos sensor if I see one Timing covers (replace all broken ones) motor mount nuts various trunk lid wings color matched RS2.5 fender if available Whatever SIF needs that I am forgetting perhaps an EG33 or EZ30 if I get bored... Opportunistic purchasing of EJ251s from wrecked cars to flip on craigslist because LOL rod bearings and head gaskets assorted subaru bits for INTERNETRACECAR assorted jeep parts for various projects perhaps an np231c 27 spline input gear if I find a case already pulled and waiting other assorted garbage
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Jul 26, 2014 07:49
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AI CELEBRITY GUEST APPEARANCE Left work early and somehow ended up near a crapcan:  Wagon at the plane car factory getting photobombed by a lovely jeep that really should be crushed:  I saw a magical plane car. I had to sign paperwork so I couldn't take pictures and TLDR for you nerds. I also got told "please don't touch that" ALOT. I regret nothing. We went to a BBQ and there were some nerds there and I made fun of people and we drank beer and got food and then left. 11pm. Arrival at casa de Kastein. And so it begins:  We started building his fancy pancake motor at around 11pm:    "Moth GET OUT OF MY MOTOR" "I'm sure they're good for lubricant dude" "what weight are they" "80 weight, good for break in" We buttoned up the install on Saturday. Heads on timing set once a quick call to ChrisGT happened. Turns out I can't remember how to build motors unless I'm perfectly alone with a laptop and beer. This dirt driveway poo poo throws me off. Also this conversation happened: "yo I'm going to go put my stuff in your house" "uhhhh you really shouldn't, it's pretty uninhabitable" "nah bro it's fine" *walks into house* --- Construction tools and debris literally everywhere --- "welp, you weren't lying" Le casa de Subaru: 
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Jul 28, 2014 01:25
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Aww I miss hanging out with you guys. With all the work on my rolling groverhaus I haven't had much time to think about heading down south.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:47
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God drat, parties at Kastein's place look so loving fun.
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Jul 28, 2014 02:24
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Oh man this engine is going to be amazing.
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Jul 28, 2014 03:43
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I cannot wait to see the moth-motor in it's new home. Also iForge posted:God drat, parties at Kastein's place look so loving fun.
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Jul 28, 2014 04:06
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Slow is Fast posted:
Goddamn. That jeep is newer, more mechanically sound, has less dents, better paint, and somehow manages to look much worse than my red shitbox. Goes to show you that complete trim makes a difference  Took it out camping a couple of weekends ago after replacing the thermostat housing gasket/thermostat/gauge temp sender/leaky valve cover gasket. It ran great but lost a bunch of coolant, which I traced to corroded freeze plugs. Slow is Fast posted:This dirt driveway poo poo throws me off. Dirt driveway supremacy. Got a 2001 8.25 last week, and finally had some time to gently caress around with it.   Looks clean inside  Beginning to wirebrush it all off in prep to paint the pumpkin. Gotta polish that turd  Going to dive in way over my head in the coming months and do the following: Drop transmission/remove intake manifold to replace all the old freeze plugs with new copper ones Replace shot engine mounts (going with budget rockauto mounts because gently caress it) Replace oil pan/transmission pan gaskets (so much oil crud down there) Replace rear main seal while I'm in there Replace crankshaft sensor while I'm in there Probably spend some cash and install Aussie locker into 8.25 New rear drivetrain ujoints Rape wallet further and install Rubicon Express 3" lift Install 8.25 The thought of adding more things to the list makes me break into a nervous sweat, but while I've got the transmission out is there anything else I should be checking/doing?
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Jul 28, 2014 07:26
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iForge posted:God drat, parties at Kastein's place look so loving fun. Do you like Chinese Buffet, Porch beer, Jeep parts and high speed runs down unimproved dirt roads? 
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Jul 28, 2014 12:49
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Sandbagger SA posted:Do you like Chinese Buffet, Porch beer, Jeep parts and high speed runs down unimproved dirt roads? Yes, Yes, Yes, and YES how does one attend one of these super fun party's.
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Jul 28, 2014 14:55
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My transmission is still marginally attached to my engine via a mostly cracked in half bellhousing so I think you win the mechanically sound part too, dude. Thanks for posting those pictures, because every picture I took is on my dear departed droid 3 that met its fate between 3" crushed stone and my fat rear end in the junkyard Saturday morning. And of course I had no backups. Friday night went about like this: some irc nerds posted:23:58:04 < Slow-is-cell> "get out of my motor, moth" The motor's now completely assembled but I discovered a number of things that precluded me doing anything with it Sunday night while putting the clutch on. - one dowel pin is missing, I forgot to pull it out of the donor's tranny bellhousing. Whoops, I'll order it from Subaru this week for a whopping 50 cents or whatever. I dig Subaru fastener prices, except the head bolts, holy loving christ. - I need some parts: * 3 pin style coolant temp sensor (the 91 block had something else) * hose from PCV to block * outer EJ251 timing cover. Mine has some bits cracked off it and  this thing is gonna be goddamn perfect or it's not getting used.* 91 AC compressor tensioners are 3 bolt mount, 00 are 2 bolt. So I need a belt tensioner from the junkyard, oh well. * gonna order another motor mount since I am a retard and only ordered one by accident * knock sensor pigtail on the harness is haggard as gently caress so I need to get a new crimp pin for that style connector and redo it. * need hose clamps for the coolant line(s) from the throttle body to the coolant crossover tube. * need to order an oil drain plug gasket, DUMBASS! I think I'll just buy a bag of ten off rockauto. * need an EJ251 oil dipstick tube. The EJ22E one fits but the mounting tab is about a quarter inch too far down the tube to actually match up with the mounting boss on the EJ251 cylinder head. Chrisgt/anyone else who knows Subarus, does the dipstick go with the tube, the pan, or both? Which dipstick do I want to go with an EJ22E pan and an EJ251 dipstick tube, or should I just put the original back in, fill with recommended amount of oil, and re-stamp it? * 8 more flywheel bolts because Reasons. The ones that are in there are fine but I'm going to need a second motor for how I plan to build this airplane, and I need to measure their length to design the crank to PSRU adapter. And they're so drat cheap I don't mind buying a full set... hell they may literally be cheaper than bolts by the pound at TSC. Things to measure/measurements done for engine to PSRU adaptation: Crank flange is 25mm below bellhousing mounting face. Crank bolt diameter 10mm. Unsure of thread pitch, I'm using OEM so it doesn't matter. Bellhousing bolts are 10x1.25. Bolt circle on crank flange: ??? Pilot ID of flywheel/flexplate/crank adapter flange: 32mm Length of (automatic) crank flange bolts, less flexplate+washer thickness: 12mm Flywheel mounting flange thickness: ??? Height of 32mm pilot OD on crank flange: ??? Once I have that info I am pretty sure I can start designing the PSRU adapter. I put some more thought into it and I think a custom flange w/ 27, 29, or 32 inside splines is the way to go. Why? Because if I use 29 spline, I can use a Dodge NP241D diesel/V10 input gear and a piece of 29 spline chrysler 8.25 axleshaft as the spud shaft. If I use 27 spline, I can use a Chevy NP231/241 input gear and a piece of dana 30 or 27 spline chrysler 8.25 axleshaft, or a piece of Jeep NP231J output shaft as the spud shaft. If I use 32 spline, I can use a different Chevy NP231/NP241 input gear and a piece of E250/E350 rear dana 60 axleshaft as the spud shaft.
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Jul 28, 2014 15:12
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Kinda offtopic, but I always wondered where you worked due to all the references to the aerospace industry, and now I finally know. It fits you perfectly, and is way cooler than whatever I was thinking.
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Jul 29, 2014 03:11
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What kind of person these days doesn't have dropbox for backup photos? I hope you can finally put the legacy of cracked bellhousings behind you, though.
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Jul 29, 2014 03:50
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Well the problem is... I keep forgetting. I HAD a perfect backup server system at my last apartment, like five years ago, but I threw my life in storage when I moved out of there and into the house to save money while fixing the house, and basically stopped caring about computers that aren't built into something in the meantime, so I never got around to fixing it.The Royal Nonesuch posted:Goddamn. That jeep is newer, more mechanically sound, has less dents, better paint, and somehow manages to look much worse than my red shitbox. Goes to show you that complete trim makes a difference A few things now that I re-read this... The dents and paint? hahahaha, you definitely win. This thing is a rotted, beat up, dented, smashed shitcan with not a single straight body panel except the hatch, which is a recent replacement. One rocker panel is literally half gone from rust and being torn off by a stump offroad, the other is caved in from not giving a rats rear end while blasting down a trail that's mildly challenging on 32s... on stock tires, with my foot on the floor. This jeep pisses me off and is cursed, and has done nothing but gently caress with me even before I started abusing it, so I really can't wait to cut it up and put all its nice parts (so, the license plates, really) on a comanche. Most of the non replaceable body panels were scratched and dented and/or rust holed even when I got it. It's nice from like, 100 feet away, or with a potato camera phone, but that's about it. Good on the axle. Can't go wrong with a 29 spline 8.25, IMO. Freeze plugs - good idea, copper/brass ones are best. Engine mounts - DO NOT buy ANCHOR brand ones. The fitment is absolutely awful - like, had to shim them with stacks of washers to get bolt preload awful. Go with Crown Automotive, my dude on the inside there (I have two friends who work there - one in sales, one in procurement/engineering/etc) says chrysler literally buys their mounts from them for dealer supply. Oil pan gasket - go with the blue silicone Fel-Pro one. Use silicone where it matters - on the corners right where the semicircles for the front timing cover and the rear main bearing cap meet the bottom of the engine, since the gasket sometimes has a hard time conforming into those crevices. Make sure the gasket doesn't poop out in those locations, too, and use the little sheetmetal girdle on the two pan bolts that straddle the rear semicircle cutout, else it'll hemorrhage oil. Rear main seal - only replace if it NEEDS it, make sure you match the upper half of the gasket's cross section with the lower half so you don't put it in backwards, you'll probably have to loosen all the main bearing cap bolts and use a BRASS (to avoid nicking the crank) 3/16" round punch to drive the upper half out, or at least get it started. Soak the new one with oil before trying to work it in, make sure you don't nick the outer surface on the edge of the slot in the block. Crank sensor - I wouldn't. If you do, buy a new one, install it, put the old one in the glovebox as a known good spare. Driveshaft ujoints - Spicer or Neapco 5-153x from northerndrivetrain.com. Buy a few sets of 2-70-18x ujoint straps too. 5/16" 6 point box wrench only for those bolts; they round easily. If the threads in the yoke ears look nasty, run a 1/4-28 UNF tap through them to clean the dirt and gunk out. That's about all I can think of - a new transmission mount wouldn't be a bad idea. ANCHOR is fine for those, but use whatever brand you prefer. Make sure you don't break the studs or bolts that hold the trans crossmember to the frame rails because those are a pain in the rear end to fix if you do. Well, not that bad, but much worse than just putting the bolt back in. Soak em in ATF/acetone 50/50 mix twice daily for as long as you have before starting to work on it and they will give you less hassle. It helps if you get it up into the frame onto the backs of the bolts so it has a chance of getting between them and the weldnuts. I've never had an issue because my jeeps are all of the exxon valdez persuasion, so they all self lubricate their chassis fasteners for literally years before I bother to fix anything. That is about all I can think of. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jul 29, 2014 |
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Jul 29, 2014 04:13
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I know G+ sucks but it's nice for backing up photos automatically! Have you said what the subbie motor is for? If not I'm thinking experimental aircraft or one of those powered parachute thingies.
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Jul 29, 2014 05:36
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With the way the jeep has treated him, I wouldn't be surprised if he used the subaru engine to build a flying gently caress.  Like this. but larger.
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Jul 29, 2014 05:39
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mafoose posted:I know G+ sucks but it's nice for backing up photos automatically! Undecided at this point. I might snap and buy a really lovely Subaru or I might start working on an airplane to put it in. Either way, I've already started taking the measurements and begun the miles of sperging required to build a powerplant and PSRU out of junkyard parts using a Subaru EJ/EG series motor and an amalgamation of Chevy, Dodge, Ford, and/or Jeep 4x4 components. So either way I'm attaching a propeller to a stupid subaru motor eventually, just not entirely sure it'll be this one.
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Jul 29, 2014 14:19
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kastein posted:I might start working on an airplane to put it in. How does this work? Do you just mount the motor backwards and throw a 10:1 gearbox on the output shaft? e. Oh, that's what a PSRU is. My bad.
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Jul 29, 2014 15:19
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2.72:1 in this case, but yes. Concerns: * Has to handle the gyroscopic, torsional, thrust, and vibration/shock loads of having a giant goddamn propeller attached to it. Cast aluminum isn't good at some of these things. * Has to handle the torque applied - with a SIGNIFICANT safety factor. Jeep NP231s are rated between 1600 and 2900 foot pounds, and that's including the front output, the planetary set is rated significantly higher and many people's experience says they can handle a lot more than that in reality. I figure there's absolutely no way the engine will make more than 300 foot pounds and the factory setup puts 235 foot pounds through a 3.83 reduction (=900 foot pounds) before running the NP231, so there's a 3:1 safety factor at the absolute minimum, likely significantly more. I'd like to see no less than 10:1 since there's likely to be a lot of torsional vibration. With cooling for the lubricating oil I think it'll do just fine, and intend to do significant on-ground load testing. * Weight. A stock NP231 weighs ~70-90lbs, which is significant on an airplane, but I'll be cutting a lot of that off. Amusingly, some common aftermarket Subaru PSRUs are in the 70lb range. * Engine/PSRU mounting. I don't know what most people do, but I don't want the stock motor mount bosses handling all the thrust loading, I'd rather have them handle the weight of the engine and design the PSRU adapter flange to incorporate mounts for torsional+thrust loading.
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Jul 29, 2014 15:40
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drat, that's a rad project. You should probably design it as a helicopter and incorporate a landing pad on the back of the 5ton. It'd be like a recheck super yacht. Thanks for the XJ tips especially re: motor mounts. You are truly the Monty Python Book of
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Jul 29, 2014 16:45
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kastein posted:Undecided at this point. I might snap and buy a really lovely Subaru or I might start working on an airplane to put it in. If you get a Subaru, buy the cheapest pos you can. There's no middle ground on those fuckers.
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Jul 29, 2014 17:44
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I am afraid of helicopters, I don't like the whole "my wings spin" thing. Easier to make them not fall off that way.Ozmiander posted:If you get a Subaru, buy the cheapest pos you can. There's no middle ground on those fuckers. Seriously. At least all the cheap POS ones need a motor, and I have a motor.
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Jul 29, 2014 18:22
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