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run 'er till it throws a rod through the wall. Are we pulling a CRV motor at sams tomorrow too?
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Aug 29, 2014 14:07
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A Honda motor in a Toyota? Can you actually do that?  I dunno, maybe. It needs a front suspension crossmember sooner, she can't pass inspection without a new one because there's a rot hole through it under the drat exhaust.
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Aug 29, 2014 14:12
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ahahaha CRV Rav4 whatever close enough
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Aug 29, 2014 14:23
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Slow is Fast posted:ahahaha I'm pretty convinced Hondas and Toyotas are the same cars with a body kit on and we just haven't noticed yet.
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Aug 29, 2014 14:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm pretty convinced Hondas and Toyotas are the same cars with a body kit on and we just haven't noticed yet. except one spins the wrong way in most of their cars.
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Aug 29, 2014 16:24
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Last two evenings were spent reinstalling the carb on the datsun and making new battery cables for it. No pics of the carb project because, well, it looks like a carb on a 4 cylinder engine, use your imagination! My dad and I are both absolutely useless at tuning carbs at this point. I've never done it properly and he hasn't done it in 30 years, and neither of us has much of a sense of smell. We got it to idle (after warmup, it needs a choke heater BAD) and run reasonably smoothly but I am sure it needs something still. Here are some battery cables though. #4 welding cable w/ neoprene insulation, solid brass marine battery lugs, the heaviest 5/16 #4 eyelets I could find on waytek wire, and heatshrink tubing. They sent me the non adhesive heatshrink rather than the adhesive kind I ordered so I need to get on the horn tomorrow and correct that.  (This was an excellent excuse to play with my 8 ton hydraulic wire crimper) Still needs new shocks in the front, as well as some rust repair to the battery bracket area due to acid damage.
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Sep 5, 2014 03:50
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the shitcan subaru passed emissions  Now time to collect parts to fix a few of its other failings...
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Sep 8, 2014 23:44
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I've been meaning to ask: trigger warning? Like, that thing tumblr people do when they can't deal with real life?
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Sep 9, 2014 00:59
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Sep 9, 2014 01:16
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Geirskogul posted:I've been meaning to ask: trigger warning? Like, that thing tumblr people do when they can't deal with real life? Some AI folks react badly when they encounter multiple positive Sockington Units of rust. Kastein's just being a good guy by warning them.
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Sep 9, 2014 02:08
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Yeah, it is me making fun of tumblrinas who are "triggered" by everything. SJWs basically. Except in this case it's rust free spergs from the southwest who tell me to scrap everything and buy non rusty poo poo out there, then have it hauled back  it ain't in the budget time or money wise so rusty crapcans it is! Anyone who wants to tell me what cars to buy and where to buy them, and have me listen, is more than welcome to sponsor the cost of acquisition differences.Crimped up, heatshrunk, and installed new battery cables and solid brass marine battery lugs today, now that I don't need to worry about the emissions monitors reading ready and passing emissions for another year. It still starts exactly like it did, but with less chance of the negative cable to the block breaking off at the crimp and the cables have a reasonable chance of staying connected to the battery, too. Look familiar yet? This time I even remembered to put the starter terminal insulator over the cable before crimping the ends on   Rear brake softlines and another brake hardline to the rear left corner tomorrow evening most likely, after I redo the battery cables on a coworker/friend's '04 WJ because they're drat near disintegrating.
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Sep 9, 2014 02:42
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I've had a bunch of cars with super sketchy battery cables, so it's nice to see that it's actually not too hard to do. Do you need a special crimper for the terminals or can you just use a lovely parts store one?
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Sep 9, 2014 02:47
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Ways people crimp a #4 battery lead: 1. Mash em with a pair of vise grips 2. Mash em with a hammer and a vise 3. Blowtorch and solder 4. Proper hammer-crimper 5. Proper hydraulic crimper 6. Proper ratchet crimper A yellow/blue/red color coded parts store terminal crimper will bend double before it does more than scratch a quality #4 lug, sorry. 1-3 are verboten and I will think less of you if you do them. Some people are going to be mad about #3 being on the shitlist... oh well. Flux and solder migration into the cable are a big deal, sorry. #4 sorta sucks and is my last resort. What I use - the harbor freight hydraulic crimper, 8 ton. It is decent, gets the job done, the dies aren't perfect but quite serviceable, the advertised gauge range of the included dies is hilarious. For instance I use the #0AWG dies on #4 cable and lugs (pictured) and it is just barely too tight. The #12AWG dies might fit #22 lugs if you were lucky and careful. Not bad for 50 bucks though. I can toss the shopping/materials list up tomorrow if you would like. Warning, I think I blew like 200 bucks on the materials and tools for this project. Why? Because I am an EE and I drat well know I will use the rest eventually, on project vehicles or otherwise. I got easily enough cable, heatshrink, and terminals to build something like 8 or 10 sets of cables, properly, to the exact length and with the exact terminals needed for whatever I am working on.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:05
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Crimpin' ain't easy, I guess. I'll probably just get precrimped from PA.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:10
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kastein posted:Ways people crimp a #4 battery lead: well there goes my plan to recrimp the world's worst jumper leads with my vise grips
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Sep 9, 2014 03:14
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bobbilljim posted:well there goes my plan to recrimp the world's worst jumper leads with my vise grips DO IT. We need more goon car fire pics.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:33
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Motronic posted:DO IT. We need more goon car fire pics. I tried to use them to jump my sister's car, thought it couldn't be jumped. Turns out the clips of the leads were lightly folded around the stranded cable, and the exposed cable kept melting off where it touched the clips. So I'm not even sure this cable can carry enough current / heat to start a fire in ideal conditions unfortunately.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:38
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My current set of jumper cables are some 6 or 4 gauge cables I found in the middle of a road.  Some tape on the handles and they're... almost as good as new.They're beat to poo poo from being run over, but the clamps still work, and the wires are mostly insulated, with no dry rotting on the insulation. My old cables had perfect clamps, but the insulation was literally falling off in 6+ inch long chunks (which lead to a lot of hot fun last time I used them). Then again, they were at least 15 years old...
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Sep 9, 2014 07:49
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kastein posted:I can toss the shopping/materials list up tomorrow if you would like. Warning, I think I blew like 200 bucks on the materials and tools for this project. Why? Because I am an EE and I drat well know I will use the rest eventually, on project vehicles or otherwise. I got easily enough cable, heatshrink, and terminals to build something like 8 or 10 sets of cables, properly, to the exact length and with the exact terminals needed for whatever I am working on. See the nice thing about this is now we know that you have the proper tools and know what you're doing so you can make cables for us instead of us making lovely ones and burning our cars to the ground. Any chance you'd make some cables for materials+shipping+beer money? I'm going to be looking for some goofy lengths if I ever get around to the 320i or other projects.
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Sep 9, 2014 13:00
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I am really, really awful at remembering to ship things. That isn't a bad idea though, let me check if the USPS will still send me free flatrate boxes.
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Sep 9, 2014 14:21
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used to know a guy who would crimp big cables in a vise and did an amazing job. He would center punch the connector first by hand slightly, then pop a ball bearing in the divot, line it all up in the vise and crush.
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Sep 9, 2014 15:28
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Mighty Horse posted:used to know a guy who would crimp big cables in a vise and did an amazing job. He would center punch the connector first by hand slightly, then pop a ball bearing in the divot, line it all up in the vise and crush. That's how I was taught to do it. It's super easy and works really well. Definitely slower than a purpose built tool, but hey.....I already have that stuff.
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Sep 9, 2014 16:12
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Old and busted. Top to bottom: hinky rear end sheetmetal terminal choocher that I hated, bolt-on substitute lead terminal AKA emergency temporary hackjob (which is best for collecting lead sulphate crystals and becoming a maddening intermittent), drat near broken-off ground lug at the block end of the negative lead. Half the strands simply broke and turned into powder when I bent it over once. New hotness. Hydro crimped solid copper lugs, heatshrink, welding cable, brass marine terminals.  Here are pictures of the abominable snowman shooting down the UFO that crashed into the world trade center. THE PHOTOGRAPHER WAS KILLED BY SHADOWY GOVERNMENT FORCES WHO DON'T WANT YOU TO KNOW WHAT HAPPENED, MAN. YOU'VE BEEN DUPED.   (Its actually the new leads at the block/starter, sorry about the blurry rear end UFO spotter grade photos, my phone spergs out and focuses on the wrong thing every time) E: now up to three sets of cables made in the last week, since my coworker's jeep got done tonight after work as she needs an inspection sticker by the end of the month and wanted to make sure the emissions monitors would be ready in time. They are cleared on battery disconnect so sooner was better. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 00:10
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Now I have an inexplicable want for a hydraulic cable crimper, not to be confused with my want for a hydraulic line crimper, and an a/c line crimper. Yay tools! Kastein, I don't know if it was on here or FB, but you mentioned Deutsch connectors. This weekend I'm going to be wiring some hdp20 clamshells for a new quick disconnect megasquirt harness. Got any tips? Being as I'm on a budget, I bought a 14-20ga and 20-22ga 4 indent crimpers. I couldn't spring for the $550 crimper wirecare sells. Am I destined for failure?
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Sep 10, 2014 00:21
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The ones I really like are the Deutsch D369 series - they use aerospace grade machined pins, as39029 series. I've got no real opinion on HDP20s. That being said, I use a 4-indent crimper on D369 and Dsub (god those are awful, but a lot of avionics use them  ) pins at work and have never had an issue as long as the crimp passed a pull test.E: googled the HDP20s and I really like the look of these for bulkhead connectors. Was going to use MIL-31xx series, but these are probably better and lighter. Thanks! kastein fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 00:30
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Yea, they're pretty nice. 2 volvos are getting 35pin bulkheads, and the BMW is getting the 47pin one. I wish I had a hook up on this stuff, I'm looking at about $100 a matched pair including pins and sockets. Way cheaper then amphenol that's for drat sure!
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Sep 10, 2014 01:13
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Yeah, quality connectors are very much a pay to play game unfortunately. For instance I was looking at 7 pin minimultilocks for everything on the vehicle at work only to find that they were fairly cheap... but the only certified crimp tool for them was $2300. I can justify that for production, but for a test prototype? Hellllll no. So I ended up speccing d369 for everything, which weighs somewhat more but costs $bazilliondy less and is actually nicer for assembly and maintenance. Here's the stuff I got, in case anyone wants to make the same mistakes! * crimper: http://m.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html * brass marine battery terminals: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Lynx-Battery-terminal-brass-marine/_/N-25hn?id=95969&itemIdentifier=95969_0_0_ (substitute something else as appropriate if you have a different style battery) * #8 and #10-12 crimp lugs for PDC and alternator feeds, 5/16 and 3/8 stud size depending on the vehicle. * #4 extra heavy duty crimp lugs for starter feeds, 5/16 and 3/8 stud size depending on vehicle. * #4 welding cable from airgas.com, flexaprene insulation. * appropriately sized adhesive lined shrink tubing. I got the crimp lugs and heatshrink from waytek wire; the SKUs I ordered were: 30ea 36565 HEAVY DUTY EYELET LUG 4GA 5/16" STUD GRAY COLOR CODE EA 0.8019 $24.05 50ea 32204 12-10 GA 5/16" RING TERMINAL NON-INSULATED BRAZED EA 0.1242 $6.21 50ea 33003 8 GA 5/16" RING TERMINAL NON-INSULATED BRAZED EA 0.1788 $8.94 These work for 5/16 or 8mm studs... if your starter, battery terminals (GM side lug are 3/8. True marine battery adapters are 5/16 for one and 3/8 for the other to prevent switching them, but the brass terminal adapters I linked are both 5/16) or anything else are 3/8 or 10mm, plan on drilling the holes out to a larger size or just order another size eye. Jeep 4.0L ground cable attachment locations are 3/8, as well, IIRC. Most starter solenoid B+ posts are 8mm or 5/16. If you have a high compression high displacement engine, a long battery to starter run, or other complicating factors I might recommend going to #2, #1, or even #0 welding cable, but #4 has been equal to or better than anything I have replaced so far. Oh yeah, dug into my dad's ranger tonight. It has... uh... issues.  We went in trying to fix a persistent cyl #1 misfire, and came out with the following findings: * spark plug is not at fault. New plugs installed, #1 was gas soaked but not oily. * there's a small hole in the Y-pipe right where it joins the cat flange. It will become a large hole if I attempt to weld over it. *  opened, problem circled on grill, abandon all hope ye who enter here, etc etc etc:* trans cooler lines are rotted dangerously close to breakage * so are PS lines * so is the pass front brake line but materials are on hand to fix that, just haven't gotten to it yet * oh hey, both front cab mounts have rusted entirely off the cab/inner fenders * hmmm what is this rusted off bracket that fell down inside the grill area? No idea * oh it got jammed between the ac condenser and the support and wore a hole in the condenser? Cool. Guess it needs one of those too * apparently the grill and one blinker housing got smashed sometime. No idea when. Fortunately they are in the way of rust repair so the old ones will come off anyways and the new ones will replace them. * no idea what is causing the misfire, it is noid light and neon spark tester time tomorrow night. Then compression tester time... * the ac condenser support crossmember is entirely rotted off the truck, its just floating there. Going to see if a front crash repair panel that covers these and the cab mounts is available. Looks like I am going to have an excuse to buy those AC recharge tools (vac pump, gauge manifold, can tap, etc) I wanted sooner rather than later! Especially since my subaru needs a recharge too. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 03:23
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Crap, is it worth saving or is that annual rust repair where you are?
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Sep 10, 2014 07:27
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Jesus christ, I'm upset because my 1968 Mercury has a rusted-in-two brake line...godspeed, kastein.
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Sep 10, 2014 08:18
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Cakefool posted:Crap, is it worth saving or is that annual rust repair where you are? It shouldn't be that bad, none of this is visible so it just has to be structural. This is the end result of buying a truck based on carfax reports and "but it was owned by one of the family members of a dealer and always serviced there, look at the service records!!!  " and then driving it till it stopped moving, fixing the bare minimum or paying someone to fix the bare minimum, and repeating.
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Sep 10, 2014 12:39
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Tonight I'm going through my harness and giving all the connectors a good blast of contact cleaner/compressed air/wire brush the spades. In the process I noted this busted relay - as far as I can tell searching diagrams online, it seems to match the location (above right wheel well, next to battery) of both the fog light and A/C clutch relays. Which one is it, or do they share the same relay? Neither my fog lights nor my A/C will turn on, so they both make sense. The connector has it's own ground and positive lead which looks like it connects to the + terminal. 1988 Renix XJ 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 03:01
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Sorry man, I have no idea. I own two RENIX MJs but their electrical systems are getting torn out when I start working on them so I haven't so much as looked at them. That's a question the main jeep thread or NAXJA forums can probably answer.
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Sep 11, 2014 03:14
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kastein posted:Sorry man, I have no idea. I own two RENIX MJs but their electrical systems are getting torn out when I start working on them so I haven't so much as looked at them. Coo, no worries. Further googling will find it. edit: by the super scientific method of putting in a spare relay I forgot I had/toggling the foglight switch, I have determined by clicking noises that it is the fog light relay Still no light, so I took one apart and it is missing the entire socket. I didn't even bother to take apart the other one. Previous Owners 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 05:19
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Today: Fixed the rear brakes on the 1997 honda accord that lost a balljoint a while back. They were turbofucked, rotors looked like hell, one pad worn down to the backing plate, slides jammed, etc. Also helped ACEofsnett toss a new trans mount in his 1991 toyota pickup offroad toy. It has been hosed for a while but the bolts were seized into the transfer case... he finally got them out without breaking them off, but it took what was left of the threads (M10x1.25) out with the bolts so I got to do my usual act of civil disobedience and retap to the next SAE size up, in this case 1/2-13, since that was the only tap/bolt size we could find on short notice Sad thing is, if I had realized that was going to happen I could have just brought my M10x1.25 helicoil kit home from work Friday and used that. Oh well, 1/2 bolts are an upgrade and not going anywhere anytime soon. Also pulled a dead tree a foot in diameter down with the MJ and winch because we were bored. Sadly this event was not caught on video. It looked like a tree being pulled down, I swear.
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Sep 17, 2014 03:08
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kastein posted:Today: Fixed the rear brakes on the 1997 honda accord that lost a balljoint a while back. They were turbofucked, rotors looked like hell, one pad worn down to the backing plate, slides jammed, etc. Somewhere out in the woods, chrisgt is twitching.
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Sep 17, 2014 03:56
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I'm just here to post this photo to make kastein hurt. Sorry buddy. All the torx bolts came right out to replace the tail light bulb.
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Sep 17, 2014 04:47
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Blaise posted:I'm just here to post this photo to make kastein hurt. What's all the blue poo poo?
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Sep 17, 2014 04:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What's all the blue poo poo? I think it's bluing.
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Sep 17, 2014 05:42
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Blaise posted:I'm just here to post this photo to make kastein hurt. Mine all came out fine too, tail light bolts are one of the few things I've never had rust issues with Fun fact: the ground ring terminal behind one of the tail lights also runs the fuel pump.
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Sep 17, 2014 15:06
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What's all the blue poo poo? I know  There was SO MUCH mud caked on the inside of the light 
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Sep 17, 2014 17:09
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