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Not sure if this is the best place for it, so if it isnt please tell me where to go. I have a Canon 550D with the kit 18-55 and 55-250 or whatever it is. I dont really use it because I also have a Tamron 18-270 Di II super zoom lens which I was using for most of my photo taking. I also have a 50 1.8 but thats not what I am here about. My Tamron decided one day that it didnt like focusing properly any more, and ruined a whole bunch of photo outings as a result. I didnt really notice at the time until I checked the LCD and noticed a photo looked a little weird, and then retook it thinking i just didnt focus correctly. I was wrong. I sent the lens for repair under warranty, which took about 6 weeks but came back with a report on what was done and they said all was good. I go out on my next adventure with my trusty all-in-one lens and now it focuses fine but focuses in the wrong spot. Every, single, time. For example, here is two photos I took - one with the Tamron, one with the Canon 18-55. both at 18, F3.5 Both times the Autofocus was indicating it was focusing on 2 points that fall on the lower 'third' line of the frame. (theres two photos in the link) http://imgur.com/a/Moq3v The Canon picture (the first one that appears) you can see is focusing on the correct area. the Tamron (the second picture, or 'the one with the canon lens on the table') has focused on everything at the foreground, despite the AF dots in the VF telling me it was using the two points in the lower third of the frame. Another example from a recent day out (over all a bad photo but displays my problem well) http://imgur.com/D9eNO5e The ground in front of the car is nice and sharp, and the car itself is not. I can even set the AF point manually, and it will still botch the shot. I have no issues with my other lenses. I have Reset all camera settings, and made sure my dioptric setting is set correctly (although its never been a problem so I cant see that being the cause) Any ideas? its still under warranty, should it go back for more repairs? I realise its not a fantastic lens, but I do like the convenience of having something I can stick on the camera and do most shots with, rather than carrying all my gear around all the time (and still missing the shot anyway as I have to change lenses)
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Mar 18, 2014 09:10
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800peepee51doodoo posted:There isn't much you can do with it on your end if its front focusing, at least not with that body. Even if you had a camera with micro focus adjust, that's pretty far out and probably wouldn't help. You might try the lens on another body and see if its doing the same thing, but I imagine the lens will have to go back and get recalibrated. You might need to send the body with it so they can calibrate it to your camera. Contact them and see what they say and see if you can get a rush on it since it just got work done and its not right. This was all solid advice, and they are concerned by the fact that its so far out also. I sent them (better) test photos and yeah, within a 1 metre shot at 18 F/3.5, its focusing a good 30cm in front of the point I aimed at. The centre AF point is definitely better, but I wouldnt call it 'good' as they did. So now I am sending my Lens and body to get calibrated. Hopefully that doesnt bork the body working with my nifty fifty or future lenses. its strange, because it was definitely not an issue when I bought it, and was taking pictures on par with the kit lens. Anyway, thank you for the help 
Laserface fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 06:09
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am I better off buying the 28 f2.8 with IS or the 28 f1.8 with no IS? I mean, I already have a super low light lens (nifty fifty), I just want to know if the two perform the same in terms of sharpness. I figure IS is more useful than not having it and having a lower f stop. At least the IS might salvage something the other wouldn't? Primarily for car and portrait shots.
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Apr 24, 2014 13:08
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evil_bunnY posted:The 1.8 is old and soft ( Mostly want a prime that I can use in close quarters with my 550D. the 50 is good for cars when I have space but if there is a group or tight parking (or for portraits and group shots at parties, no space) I like to be able to get in closer.
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Apr 25, 2014 02:56
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). If you're not attached to 28mm, which I personally find awkward but you may prefer I'd look at the 35/2 IS. Otherwise the 2.8 ain't bad, just expensive for a 2.8 wide prime.
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The 30mm ART is out of stock loving everywhere where I am. It seems pretty popular.
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May 2, 2014 00:42
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I did this with my 18-55 and the 50 prime. the 50 prime was much easier to get the shots i wanted with and it felt like it was doing something my other lens couldnt do (besides the much wider aperture). I took a picture on each from the same position and the 50 prime won out every time.
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May 26, 2014 04:27
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deaders posted:Definitely the best pig-racing photo I have seen this week. its probably in my top 20-25. serious post though, I did some shooting on the weekend with my 18-270 and discovered i enjoy 35mm quite a bit. is the sigma 35mm ART twice as good as the 30mm ART to justify the double cost? for the 35 I could get the 30mm and still have money to get another lens.
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Jul 15, 2014 12:05
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So uh is $200 for a used Tamron 17-50 F2.8 XR Di II non-VC and a 70-300 F4-5.6 good? Because it sounds like thats really loving good, considering the best price for a used 17-50 is around $250 here. I could probably sell the 70-300 for that much.
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Mar 2, 2015 01:54
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Organised to pick it up tonight, so if theres any weirdness I just wont buy it. Kosher to take my body along and do a few test shots? after reading up on the 70-300 I might keep it for the macro function.
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Mar 2, 2015 02:36
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Well I forgot my body (550D) as I was going go-karting with the guys from work and was in a rush out the door, but they both work fine and both in great condition. Thankfully I was karting right around the corner from where she lived so it was an easy transaction. Looking forward to putting some proper shots on it now
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Mar 2, 2015 23:17
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I use a 550D. The Tamron 17-50 F2.8 WITHOUT Vibration Compensation is good if you can get a cheap used one. even new its probably good value. I use this when I know I am going to shoot stuff that I can get close to, or need decent night quality. it will probably become my default lens and replace the below lens. I have a Tamron 18-270 F3.5-5.6 w/VC that I use for my walking around like a dumb tourist lens who doesnt know what they expect to see or if they can get close enough to crap to shoot it with the proper lenses. my 50 1.8 is my favorite lens in terms of pictures its taken, but it only gets used when I am definitely going to be shooting stuff I have room to move around and compose the shots properly. I mostly shoot cars and do bush walking, so the 18-270 is good for the latter (landscapes, wildlife), the 17-50 is good for the former (up close/crowded areas, low light/indoor/night), and the 50 is good for when I take my car to a secluded spot and can freely move it, setup tripods, do super composed stuff.
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Apr 10, 2015 01:39
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Plastic cement will eat certain plastics (its designed to soften the plastic to fuse together) but not seen or heard of super glue doing that. plastic cement on styrene is pretty fun (do not breathe the fumes)
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Apr 17, 2015 00:44
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:All used dslrs bar one advertised in Brisbane have been sold already and were owned by angry Asian women who blame you for calling to ask about the ad they haven't taken down. Why is this so hard I just wanna throw my money at people and they won't take it. I got lucky on Gumtree a few months ago, someone advertised a Tamron 17-40 2.8 and a 70-300 Fwhatever for $200 for both. I rang that fucker up and said I would be there with cash as soon as its convenient for them. just keep looking, try facebook groups since it seems thats the way all classifieds/forum sales are going these days.
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Jul 16, 2015 11:29
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Yep that was my thinking. Glad I don't have to drop big bucks on something I'm not sure how much I'll use. I wasn't going to pay $200 cause I saw 2 for 130 a few days ago that already sold. I'll see about getting a refurb in Australia. I have a 55-250 if you want it, $100. Ive used it twice.
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Aug 10, 2015 03:03
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So am I.
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Aug 10, 2015 07:05
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I'm in Brisbane, where you at? I'm looking at one elsewhere for 80 but he's not gunna be able to sell it until Friday. Sydney. I can post and use Paypal and all that.
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Aug 11, 2015 02:37
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That is fine. I have PMs if you need to get in touch.
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Aug 11, 2015 03:00
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SO i have had my Tamron 18-270 repaired twice for lovely focusing on non-centre focus points and even after sending my camera to Tamron with the lens and having it calibrated specifically to my camera it still focuses like garbage unless you're using centre focus. Is this just a thing with non-canon lenses or what?
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Oct 14, 2015 04:42
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yeah, it wasnt cheap.
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Oct 14, 2015 06:00
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Is there really such thing as an actual optically good superzoom lens? I assume I'd be an L-series, but which one? TBF it works fine on centre focus and you cant really tell the difference between it and my 17-50 F2.8 or nifty fifty in terms of quality. its just all my other lenses work fine with the non-centre focus points and then occasionally I forget to adjust for this lens (which I use exactly as you described - hiking and camping)
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Oct 15, 2015 00:24
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Cross post from automotive photography thread: Anyone got some advice on a good lens for action night shots? There's a free-to-watch drifting night at my local track and I shot 600ish photos and had these ones be the best of them. Pics: http://imgur.com/a/ZQntT Shot on Canon 550D with a Tamron 18-270 3.5-6.5 with stabilisation. Next time I go I will have a media pass so I can get closer, so reach won't really be an issue (these were all shot between 50-80mm), but I feel like I'm still gonna need a faster lens. I also want to get it under 6400 ISO if possible. I have a nifty fifty but I've been told it'll just be blurry mess at low f-stop. Was thinking canon 60mm macro as I would get extra use out of that shooting flowers for my girlfriend but the 100mm f2 canon seems like a better lens for the car stuff (and for daylight events) perhaps.
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Feb 22, 2016 01:01
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dakana posted:I'd go for the 85 1.8. Aperture won't cause blur; you'll have more than enough DoF at 1.8 from the distance you're shooting. The larger reason you'd have blur is because of too low of a shutter speed or because the autofocus on the 50 1.8 can't keep up. Thanks. Yeah the blurry comment was more aimed at the AF being poo poo. Is the new fifty any better?
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Feb 22, 2016 01:56
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xzzy posted:My suspicion is the trick to photographing racing cars at night is finding a spot with floodlights hitting the car, or get a body with excellent performance at high ISO. Probably a mixture of both. Unfortunately the lights arent positioned that well and either block the view or the light is facing straight into the camera. The media pass will get me on the other side of the spectators fence (but still behind the tyres) and I imagine my 17-50 2.8 Tamron will be more useful. I just didnt have time to gently caress around with release forms and security deposits ($50 for a day-glo vest lol) as I was on my way to my girlfriends house and thought I would try to get some sunset shots in. Im cool with being close to race cars in this instance as drifting is relatively low speed and they mostly just spin out rather than careen off track and into the barriers. for the actually fast cars I usually just go as a spectator with my 70-300 during the day and dont have any issues.
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Feb 23, 2016 06:56
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I did pan a lot of the shots. the good shots were taken from the inside of the final turn (you only do 3 turns in drifting) starting from the start of the second turn and finishing at the end of the third. Panning I got the hang of pretty quickly but still kind of tricky when you just dont have the ability to get the shutter speed where you want it.
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Feb 23, 2016 08:02
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what about the canon 60mm macro? I was thinking of that for a macro that I can use for other stuff.
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Mar 16, 2016 01:04
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alkanphel posted:It's perfect if you're using a crop camera. Which I am! thanks for the suggestion. there is a cheap used one I might pick up.
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Mar 16, 2016 01:20
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Any red flags to look for on a used 60mm f2.8 USM Macro? Found one for $200 (locally used is around $3-400 and new is $600) and suspicious but also really tempted and checking it out tomorrow.
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Apr 1, 2016 06:24
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Probably stolen he had it advertised for $300 but it hasnt moved since two weeks ago so I offered $200 and he took it. but yeah always a consideration (with no real repercussions if it is stolen so whatever i suppose)
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Apr 2, 2016 00:33
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Laserface posted:Any red flags to look for on a used 60mm f2.8 USM Macro? Purchased from an Old lady who was using it for photographs in her garden but her husband had died so no more garden  it was bought overseas, so maybe thats why. got a bunch of cheap extension tubes for free too.
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Apr 4, 2016 14:18
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I briefly had the Tamron 18-250 and then got the 18-270 and it had back focusing issues that didnt go away even after sending it back to Tamron twice, once with my camera body. sometimes if you're lucky and only using centre focus it will work well and take okay pictures. Its really heavy too. They're OK as a walk-around when you have no idea what you might see, but as I learn what I Like to shoot and what events/locations I go to I tend to stick to my Tamron 17-50 F2.8 and canon 60mm macro. The 60mm macro is amazingly sharp - better than a nifty 50 by a long shot. easily my favorite lens in my kit. maybe the new one is better but my 50mm I only got for night time shots and even then its pretty average at them. I also have a 70-300 tamron but its just bleh. This is on a 550D.
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May 14, 2016 08:28
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I know lenses are marketed as EF or EF-S, but what is the actual difference? is a 50mm EF lens on a crop body going to have a different crop to a 50mm EF-S lens on the same body? I know that an EF-S lens on a full frame body results in vignetting, but doesnt that imply that the focal length is different on an EF-S lens to an EF?
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May 17, 2016 00:47
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I have a Tamron 70-300 that causes my 550D to lock up, but ONLY when shooting between 180-300mm + using high aperture (11+) I get a 'communication between the camera lens and body has been lost' error on the screen and need to disconnect and reboot the body and reconnect for it to start working normally again. I dont think the lens is broken, Im guessing its just that the lens is incapable of running high apertures at long zooms? Im running it high because i was shooting some cars drifting in broad daylight and to get some nice motion blur I was using a shutter speed of 1/125 @ ISO100. is there a better way to do this? the lens itself isnt that great and I dont really need that much zoom (most of the photos are around 135-150mm anyway) but it is annoying when you accidentally go for that extra bit of reach and miss a shot, so upgrading it to a better lens is definitely an option. is the canon 70-200 a good buy?
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Mar 6, 2017 00:56
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My Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 non IS is the best lens I have purchased in terms of consistency and image quality and the only time it's off my camera is when I am doing macro or Tele stuff all day. Considering I got it used for half of retail and they also gave me a 70-300 with it it's the best price:use ratio of anything I own.
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Apr 25, 2017 04:15
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Some of the sharpest, nicest photos I have taken, macro or not, were with my Canon 60mm F2.8 USM Macro. and its always amazing seeing insects close up.
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Aug 24, 2017 06:30
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I was gonna ask about upgrading my 550D body to either a Sony 6300+adapter or an 80D but it looks like the 80D is what you guys suggest so thanks.
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Feb 21, 2019 05:19
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I have the kit lenses, nifty 50, a 60mm macro and tamron 17-50. And the 80d just went on sale, and I get sales tax back if I take it on my holiday to Hawaii in a few weeks, making it around $250 off.
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Feb 22, 2019 22:10
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Locally in Australia. $936aud for body only, after sales tax reimbursement when I take it overseas.
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Feb 23, 2019 12:55
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mobby_6kl posted:I've been shooting the 550D since it was the new hotness and although my skills are still the main limiting factor, it's getting a bit long in the tooth. this is also me. I tend to spend my winter shooting night time drifting events and my iphone has better low-light abilities than my 550D in most cases. seeing what my friends Sony 6300 is capable of at night makes me really sad. I've been considering an 80D because I dont really think I will ever need full frame as an amateur/hobbyist and switching to Sony is too much effort.
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Apr 8, 2019 07:54
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mobby_6kl posted:The 80D is pretty great and would be a big upgrade over our 550Ds. But wouldn't your night shooting benefit a lot from full frame sensors? A 6D II or RP isn't quite as good as the A7 III but they're also almost half the price plus you get to keep your glass. I think the only reason full frame wasnt on my radar was because I didnt want to lose the crop sensor 'reach'. Edit: and price. the two things I like shooting the most are motorsport and birds. Crop gives me that extra 'reach' that makes it slightly easier, but yeah night time stuff would benefit from full frame. I just think the 80D, especially how you it can recover so much from a super under exposed image like on the dp-review page, is something I can absolutely work with. the other thing that holds me back on the 550D is the memory filling up after 7 burst shots and taking like 30 seconds to write it all to the SD card. Laserface fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Apr 8, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 22:43
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jarlywarly posted:I own the 80d If you want to check out some bird shots with the settings my Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/photos/aveslux/ Thanks - these photos are great and pretty much exactly what I do (bugs, birds,nature) the other small issue is my only decent Tele lens is my Kit 55-250 from the 550D. I have a Tamron 70-300, but it randomly decides to not work beyond 180mm and will cause the camera to ask to reboot. it was a freebie when I bought a 17-50 second hand and the person didnt want to keep it around and it worked fine for a real long time, so I cant complain too much (except that the kit lens has IS and is sharper at all lengths) I've been looking at second hand 70-200 F/4s or even the 100mm macro since that will get some double duty (and I could sell my 60mm macro) Laserface fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Apr 8, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 23:01
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