Search Amazon.com:
Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
«3 »
  • Post
  • Reply
XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


Right, so I finally feel like I have enough of the parts, and enough progress on my project to start a thread.

A little background info. I'm a 30-sum year old Aussie about to perform an LS1 swap into my 1988 944 Turbo.

The car was originally a 2.5L 4 cylinder, with a few mods. These mods included the usual suspects like a 3" exhaust, Boost controller, Tial Wastegate, a Wolf 3D Standalone EMS, injectors/fuel pump, and a few other odds and ends I'm sure I'm forgetting.

In this guise, the car ran well for a couple of years, and make around 290rwhp at 15lbs of boost.

Unfortunately, it also managed to eat its headgasket on a long trip home. The headgasket wasn't REALLY a big issue, as the motor had around 280,000Klms on it, and I'm not sure if the headgasket had ever been changed. Either way, it failed between a water jacket and combustion chamber, and started using water.

I could have just thrown another gasket at it, and put it back on the road, but at that stage, I was hell bent on building a super-dooper 4 banger turbo motor for it. Having a lot of the bolt-ons already sitting in boxes, I pulled the motor in anticipation of a rebuild.

Unfortunately, a change in financial circumstances necessitated a revised plan of attack, as a $15-20k 4 cylinder was not really an option any more (buying a house then having a baby will do that). So I started looking into other options; and the LS1 swap ticks all the appropriate boxes:

1. Bolt in Kit - most of the legwork is already taken care of with a couple of conversion kits available. I'm going the the texas Performance kit, after I spoke to Eric, as he seems like a stand-up guy, who is willing to stand behind his work, and was super helpfull as well.

2. LS Engines are CHEAP - maybe not as cheap as in the US, but I sourced an LS1 out of a VY Commodore (I think, its a 2008 motor), with 120, 000 Klms on it for $1800, locally.

3. No more Porsche parts prices - I can get all of my normal service items from any local Holden dealer for peanuts, compared to Porsche prices (no more $90 rotor caps and poo poo).

4. LS Motors are dead simple - really, there's nothing to them, and they are a hell of a lot simpler than the Porsche 4 banger.

5. Horsepower potential - I'm looking for 350-400rwhp - with the LS1, this can be achieved really easily with a cam and head change. This will leave me with an under-stressed V8 that will last just about forever, as opposed to a highly strung, high boosted 4 cylinder that I will have to wring the guts out of.

So thats about where I stand on engine selection reasoning. The elephant in the room is the whole 'removing the heart of the porsche' argument. Honestly, I don't give a rats patootie about keeping things in the Porsche family. The engines weigh near enough to the same, and the $$:performance ratio just screams LS. Plus, its been too many years since I've owned a V8.

So, whats the general plan for the car?

* LS Engine Swap,

* Keep it pretty standard initially, to pass Engineer Certification,

* Get it reliable, in terms of ancillary systems (cooling etc).

* Drive the balls off of it!

Here's a couple of pics of the car, in its previous life as a 4 banger:

Before I bought it:



After I put some wheels on it:



Specifics of what I'll be doing:

Nothing super special here, just maintenance and durability stuff.

Melling HV Oil Pump,
Rollmaster Double Row Timing chain and Cogs,
New Water Pump,
New Valley Cover/PCV Plate,
Holley Injectors,
Holley Fuel Rails,
Aeromotive FPR,
MSD Starter Motor,
Full ARP Fasteners,
Steam Vent Setup,
Holley HP EFI LS EMS,
Comp Cams Trunion Upgrade,
Yella Terra Steel Flywheel,
SPEC Clutch and Pressure Plate,
Powerbond Underdrive Balancer and Pulley Set.

I'll also be installing a set of Tilton floor hung pedals to overcome the brake booster issue (more on that later).

Problems I can see coming:

The Brake Booster issue.
Exhaust Manifolds/Extractors.

UPDATE -

Alright, here's my updated To-Do list. This will probably have many more tasks added to it, as I go along.


Shed -

Sweep/Gurney - Done.

Porsche -

Get front of car onto Jack Stands, instead of 25L Drums.
Gurney Exterior - Done.
Vacuum Interior.
Remove Center Console - Done.
Remove Boost controller - Done.
Remove DS Carpet/Sound Deadener - Done.
Remove Pedal Cluster - Done.
Remove Brake MC/Booster - Done.
Remove Clutch MC - Done.
Remove Engine Wiring Harness - Done.
Remove Transaxle.
Replace Transaxle Fluid.
Check/Clean Torque Tube.
Remove/service CV Joints.
Remove Stereo - Done.
Remove/Clean Fuel Tank.
Rebuild Power Steering Rack.
Remove Boost Gauge - Done.
Remove Intercooler - Done.
Sort Fuel System:
- Mount FPR.
- Build Fuel Lines.
- Purchase/Install AN Fuel Filter.
Mount Oil Cooler Setup.
Install Tilton Pedals:
- Purchase 2 x Brake MC.
- Purchase 1 x Clutch MC.
- Purchase Triple Reservoir.
- Modify Floor to suit Pedals.
Sort Air Conditioning:
- Source AC Pump.
- Build AC Lines.
- Investigate flipping the AC Condesner, for betting fitting location.
Source Exhaust Manifolds (several different types preferably).
Build Exhaust System Y-Pipe.
Sort Induction Setup.
Source Radiator Setup (PWR).

Engine Work:
Rocker Trunion Upgrade.
Timing Chain.
Oil Pump.
Sump and Pickup.
Rear Main Seal.
Balancer.
PCV Setup.
Water Pump.
Fuel Rail and Injectors.
Flywheel + Clutch Setup.
Steam Vent setup.
EGR/Pollution Crap Setup.


Allright, onto some progress pics!


Here's what I'm starting with:

Engine removed, crossmember out.









Engine Bay:







Start of the Interior work:

My mate Pistol Pete removing the stezza.



Passenger seat removed.



Passenger footwell. The ECU will live here.



Center Console out.



Engine Bay progress. Cruise Module, Clutch Master, Catch Cans, Boost Controller Solenoid, and wiring harness removed.



Brake Booster on its way out. Now this fucker will be staying out, because when you stuff and LS1 in there, the Tappet Cover fouls on it. I had my Engineer come round for a look, and when I suggested dual remote brake boosters for it, he laughed at me, and asked why I didn't just run manual brakes? I originally wanted to do this, but was under the impression it would be illegal in my Draconian state. So, in light of this information, I will be fitting these Tilton pedals





Most of the Pedal Cluster removed.



Here's something that sent a couple of chills up my spine. This is the bracket that the Clutch and Brake Pedals swing from. Not only was it missing a couple of bolts, and had been bodged up, but check out the splits in the metal itself!
Scare's the crap outta me when I think of the times I jumped on the brakes hard ....





About where the new pedals will sit.



Where we ended up at the end of the day.





Allright, I've got some more pics of some of the engine work we have managed to get done, but I'm knackered, so they will have to come later on.

Thanks for reading!

XtaC fucked around with this message at Oct 25, 2013 around 02:30

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

respect the game and the game will respect you back


Sweet project, I know some people are gonna scream that it's somehow sacrilegious to put that engine in that car but I say just go mad with this because it's gonna be cool as gently caress.

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


Cached Money posted:

Sweet project, I know some people are gonna scream that it's somehow sacrilegious to put that engine in that car but I say just go mad with this because it's gonna be cool as gently caress.

Yeah, I'm not overly concerned about that. Its my car, so I'll do what makes me happy; but more so, with a Chev in it, I know for a fact that I'll drive it a hell of a lot more than if I had a squillion dollar 4 banger in it.

some texas redneck
May 12, 2006

This custom title now 800% more creepy!


What are your plans for the gauge cluster? Going to try and keep it looking stock and get the tach working with the V8, or custom, or somehow hack the VY cluster in? How about ECU? Since it's out of an 08, I'd think you'd need to get it flashed to get rid of the immobilizer, traction control, etc.

The LS engine is fantastic - like you said, very simple, cranks out tons of power all day every day, reliable, and cheap. There's some guy on YouTube who grabs junkyard LS1 engines, straps a bigass turbo on them, and drops them into whatever he has handy at the time. One vehicle he had was a stock Chevy pickup, original engine, tons of miles (I want to say far north of 200k miles - so over 320k km), just strapped a big turbo on it (I think he may have added a shift kit to the stock auto trans too). When he actually opens up the engines, it's usually to slap in new* (whatever he has laying around) bearings, a new head gasket, or to toss in new* (again, whatever he has laying around, used or new) rings. I can't seem to find his videos now though.

Goon EinTier had someone's abandoned project (944? with a Chevy small block swap, never finished), no idea what became of that.

Looking forward to seeing this finished.

go_banana
Oct 13, 2010


It won't be from 2008 if its a VY motor, unless the VY had a replacement engine installed. Early VZs were the last of the LS1s, after that they went to the L98 which was the 6 litre.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008



Cached Money posted:

Sweet project, I know some people are gonna scream that it's somehow sacrilegious to put that engine in that car but I say just go mad with this because it's gonna be cool as gently caress.

Yeah, screw those people. I know a guy who races a bright loving orange 944 with a 400hp LS1 in it, and it's totally awesome.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I want to believe


How easy is it to mate the engine up to the propshaft? Never dealt with anything with a divorced gearbox setup before. I assume you're doing that, rather than reworking everything to use a Holden 'box?

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


some texas redneck posted:

What are your plans for the gauge cluster? Going to try and keep it looking stock and get the tach working with the V8, or custom, or somehow hack the VY cluster in? How about ECU? Since it's out of an 08, I'd think you'd need to get it flashed to get rid of the immobilizer, traction control, etc.

The LS engine is fantastic - like you said, very simple, cranks out tons of power all day every day, reliable, and cheap. There's some guy on YouTube who grabs junkyard LS1 engines, straps a bigass turbo on them, and drops them into whatever he has handy at the time. One vehicle he had was a stock Chevy pickup, original engine, tons of miles (I want to say far north of 200k miles - so over 320k km), just strapped a big turbo on it (I think he may have added a shift kit to the stock auto trans too). When he actually opens up the engines, it's usually to slap in new* (whatever he has laying around) bearings, a new head gasket, or to toss in new* (again, whatever he has laying around, used or new) rings. I can't seem to find his videos now though.

Goon EinTier had someone's abandoned project (944? with a Chevy small block swap, never finished), no idea what became of that.

Looking forward to seeing this finished.

Uuumm ... you kinda got me there. I haven't considered it too much. My understanding is that Renegade Hybrids sells the sensors for water and oil pressure, so they should be OK. As for the tacho .... I think I'll either have to get the gauge recallibrated, or more likely, the Holley ECU will have a tach out that I can somehow finangle into the Tacho.

As for the ECU, I'll be using the Holley HP EFI setup for the LS1. They sell it as a bolt-on kit, and it looks pretty easy.

I do have an auto sparky mate that's going to help me with that side of it, though I don't think it will be rocket science.

InitialDave posted:

How easy is it to mate the engine up to the propshaft? Never dealt with anything with a divorced gearbox setup before. I assume you're doing that, rather than reworking everything to use a Holden 'box?

It looks pretty easy with the TPC kit. I don't have a good pic of the bellhousing and adapter, I'll get some pics soonish.

go_banana posted:

It won't be from 2008 if its a VY motor, unless the VY had a replacement engine installed. Early VZs were the last of the LS1s, after that they went to the L98 which was the 6 litre.

True .... I'm not real familiar with Holdens; I think I checked the engine number a while ago, and I think it tells you the year?

I'm pretty sure it must be a VZ then; were they the last of the cable throttlebodied LS1's?

some texas redneck
May 12, 2006

This custom title now 800% more creepy!


At least in the US, GM pretty much got rid of cables in the early to mid 00s, depending on model. I think my particular car only had a cable for the 2003 model year (my model was made for 03-07 - 06 Saturn Ion, but it's a Chevy Cobalt with uglier body panels and a nicer interior). I have no idea how that applies to you - a quick google suggests most/all VZs are drive by wire (but this was about 10 seconds of searching).

Water and oil sensors should be easy. Tach shouldn't be that difficult with the right stuff. Your cluster (probably) isn't tied directly into the ECU, so you've got that working for you.

kastein or others can probably suggest some fixes for the tach if the Holley ECU doesn't have an output. I'm just guessing that some kind of circuit that sends half the pulses to the tach is all you need, but I have no idea how to assemble something like that.

Larrymer
Jan 10, 2007


Cool thread. No purist hate bullshit here. LSXs are hard to beat.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008



Larrymer posted:

Cool thread. No purist hate bullshit here. LSXs are hard to beat.

I don't think it's possible to find an engine with a better cost/hp ratio outside of cars with really really small engine bays and/or FWD-only.

Fake edit: And apparently, you can put the LS1 in some FWD cars, like the Grand Prix or Alero, by way of an adapter plate.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Even better the LS4, which comes in FWD configuration in the Impala SS, among others.

ultimateforce
Apr 25, 2008

SKINNY JEANS CANT HOLD BACK THIS ARC


KozmoNaut posted:

I don't think it's possible to find an engine with a better cost/hp ratio outside of cars with really really small engine bays and/or FWD-only.

Fake edit: And apparently, you can put the LS1 in some FWD cars, like the Grand Prix or Alero, by way of an adapter plate.

Big engine bays: LS
Long engine bays: 2JZ
Front wheel drive bays: K20

There, I just fixed every car.

some texas redneck
May 12, 2006

This custom title now 800% more creepy!


K24

BECAUSE NO DISPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT or something.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

KEEP BACK 200 FEET

Resident Rover


Cached Money posted:

Sweet project, I know some people are gonna scream that it's somehow sacrilegious to put that engine in that car but I say just go mad with this because it's gonna be cool as gently caress.

Those people can gently caress right off. I've driven two 944s with LS motors in them and they are phenomenal.

I'll go pull my pile of notes on the gauge stuff. I've got a decent amount of information on it as I'm planning the same swap at some point in the future. I just need to find the right turbo shell - doing it on an NA shell is just too expensive/annoying.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008
Tusen Takk blew sand up my vagina, and now I'm as cranky as a three year old eating sprouts.

Motronic posted:

Those people can gently caress right off. I've driven two 944s with LS motors in them and they are phenomenal.

I'll go pull my pile of notes on the gauge stuff. I've got a decent amount of information on it as I'm planning the same swap at some point in the future. I just need to find the right turbo shell - doing it on an NA shell is just too expensive/annoying.

How much difference in weight distribution is there between the turbo motor and an LSX? I would imagine there cant be anything that awful right?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

KEEP BACK 200 FEET

Resident Rover


BrokenKnucklez posted:

How much difference in weight distribution is there between the turbo motor and an LSX? I would imagine there cant be anything that awful right?

About 30 to 40 pounds, obviously depending on which LS motor you use.

It's basically not much more than the different between RHD and LHD model weight distribution when stock (RHD have batteries in the back because the stock battery location would interfere with the swapped-over brake booster placement).

lazer_chicken
May 14, 2009

PEW PEW ZAP ZAP


Yeah the aluminum LSx motors are amazingly light. An LS weighs only slightly more than a BP from a Miata. The majority of the weight gain from LS1 Miata swaps is actually from the transmission.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008
Tusen Takk blew sand up my vagina, and now I'm as cranky as a three year old eating sprouts.

Motronic posted:

About 30 to 40 pounds, obviously depending on which LS motor you use.

That sounds easy.... Will the rear end be able to handle the power (more like the torque) form the LS motor?

lazer_chicken
May 14, 2009

PEW PEW ZAP ZAP


I can't speak for this particular project, but many people use the Ford 8.8 IRS in LS swaps. Strong and IRS so you can stick it pretty much anywhere.

EDIT: if the existing rear end can take 290whp from the outgoing engine it should be able to take the LS.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003


The 944 has a rear-transaxle setup, doesn't it?

Sounds like you've got a lot of this build sorted out already. That said, there is a third option on the brakes - if you are maintaining the power steering, you can switch to hydroboost and use the power steering pump to provide your brake assist. You'd need custom lines but the hydroboost unit is much smaller in diameter, about the same as the master cylinder + brake lines itself.

I was this close to swapping one into my truck but right now I'm going to go with a bigger vacuum booster since I have the room. If it doesn't work the way I want it to, I may go hydroboost anyway.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

KEEP BACK 200 FEET

Resident Rover


BrokenKnucklez posted:

That sounds easy.... Will the rear end be able to handle the power (more like the torque) form the LS motor?

That's one of the reasons I won't use an NA platform for this. The NA ones will hold if you're gentle, but I don't think it's a great idea. The turbo transaxles are a tried and true formula for this swap and should do very nicely providing you aren't going around drag racing (which will break that audi piece of poo poo with stock motor/stock power).

IOwnCalculus posted:

That said, there is a third option on the brakes - if you are maintaining the power steering, you can switch to hydroboost and use the power steering pump to provide your brake assist. You'd need custom lines but the hydroboost unit is much smaller in diameter, about the same as the master cylinder + brake lines itself.

The popular option on higher dollar "948" builds is an electric power booster. But those things are like a grand.

shoopeach
Aug 13, 2012


Welcome to my world. I have an LS swapped 944, if you have any questions post them up. Good work w/ TPC's kit, they are much better than Renegades. I started w/ RH's equipment and have swapped most of them out for Eric's.

For an ECU, I just used a stock ecu and tuned it w/ HPTuners. The stock ecu can pretty much be used as a standalone so that you don't need it to interface w/ the rest of the car.

I am curious to see your finalized tilton setup, I'm currently running powersteering and hydroboost but I'm not completely satisfied w/ the Hydroboost setup. I also see you're RHD so this may make the Tilton setup a bit "easier".

here is some mild inspiration for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laKzf1IHJ_Y

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003


Yeah, I've never understood the desire to run aftermarket EFI controllers on the LS1 - the factory piece works great, is well supported, and is very easily reprogrammed. Maybe if you end up with a bare-engine pullout that doesn't have the harness and PCM, but even then I bet you could buy and reconfigure the stock harness and PCM for less than any true aftermarket setup.

Love the video, mostly because it contains one of my favorite things about a tuned LS1 - all of that popping on deceleration. I have a bit of a habit of downshifting my 4L60E manually just to get more of it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

KEEP BACK 200 FEET

Resident Rover


IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I've never understood the desire to run aftermarket EFI controllers on the LS1 - the factory piece works great, is well supported, and is very easily reprogrammed.

All modern GM ECUs are pretty awesome in that respect. The latest LML Duramaxes are causing some issues at the moment, but I'm sure someone (EFI Live) will sort it out. It seems to be an after-effect of the GM parts bin philosophy. One that actually works out well for gear heads: make one ECU that you can drop some different code or parameters on and use it it several different things.

The only thing that is problematic at the moment is the EPA suing a lot of the companies that make hardware/software for tuning. They've put several out of business in the last few years, but EFI Live seems to be doing pretty much OK since they're off shore (based in New Zealand).

In any case, hell yeah on using the GM ECU as a "standalone".

And, as promised I dug out some notes. LT1/LS1/LS6 ECU tach output signal should work 100% fine unless your ECU was flashed to put out an 8-cyl tach signal (typically they are 4-cyl.....why that is the case I don't know). If yours is outputting an 8-cyl signal a single resistor change will get you close enough that you can calibrate it accurately with the internal trim pot.

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


Hi guys, sorry for the lack of updates, but life has been a bit full on at the moment.

Not a whole lot of progress to show at the moment, but I've got a bit done.


IOwnCalculus posted:

That said, there is a third option on the brakes - if you are maintaining the power steering, you can switch to hydroboost and use the power steering pump to provide your brake assist. You'd need custom lines but the hydroboost unit is much smaller in diameter, about the same as the master cylinder + brake lines itself.

I seriously looked at this, but the idea of adding more hoses and hardware to the engine turned me off of it. I want to make the car simpler and cleaner.

BrokenKnucklez posted:

That sounds easy.... Will the rear end be able to handle the power (more like the torque) form the LS motor?

As has already been said, I think the Turbo transaxle will be fine, as long as I don't go dumping the clutch. Also, the car only has an open diff at the moment, so I don't think excessive traction will be an issue.

Motronic posted:

In any case, hell yeah on using the GM ECU as a "standalone".

I'll be using the Holley ECU instead of the GM one.

Couple of reasons:

1. My engine didn't come with the factory ECU, and I didn't feel like spending money on old hardware (however capable).

2. The Holley system can self tune (and actually seems to do it pretty drat well). This will mean no trip to the dyno for initial tuning, or for subsequent mods; this will save me significant amounts of cash and time later on.

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


Ok, so here's the progress to date.

Got stuck in and got the motor pulled down somewhat.

What I'm starting with (Worked out this is a 2003 motor, VY Commodore):



Looks nice and clean inside.





Ancilliaries off.



Timing cover off.



Thats where we decided to stop for the day, having realized that I had the engine hung by the sump, on the stand.

Waiting for Pete to bring his endless chain over so we can fix that.

Stuff thats been removed.



Pile of parts to go in.



I'll do up a proper To-Do list for the OP today.

drukqs
Oct 15, 2010

wank wank you're a pro vaper I'm not wooptiedoo...


Hey I know you... Weren't you a genmayer? I remember that "car before I bought it" shot distinctly!!

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


drukqs posted:

Hey I know you... Weren't you a genmayer? I remember that "car before I bought it" shot distinctly!!

Sure am mate, that was a while ago!

shoopeach
Aug 13, 2012


I think I see it on your bellhousing, but make sure you get an extended speed bleeder like the one below if you don't already have it. It makes bleeding the clutch a million times easier.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-R...eder,41385.html

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Jeep Whisperer


some texas redneck posted:

What are your plans for the gauge cluster? Going to try and keep it looking stock and get the tach working with the V8, or custom, or somehow hack the VY cluster in? How about ECU? Since it's out of an 08, I'd think you'd need to get it flashed to get rid of the immobilizer, traction control, etc.

The LS engine is fantastic - like you said, very simple, cranks out tons of power all day every day, reliable, and cheap. There's some guy on YouTube who grabs junkyard LS1 engines, straps a bigass turbo on them, and drops them into whatever he has handy at the time. One vehicle he had was a stock Chevy pickup, original engine, tons of miles (I want to say far north of 200k miles - so over 320k km), just strapped a big turbo on it (I think he may have added a shift kit to the stock auto trans too). When he actually opens up the engines, it's usually to slap in new* (whatever he has laying around) bearings, a new head gasket, or to toss in new* (again, whatever he has laying around, used or new) rings. I can't seem to find his videos now though.

Goon EinTier had someone's abandoned project (944? with a Chevy small block swap, never finished), no idea what became of that.

Looking forward to seeing this finished.

That's denmah on youtube most likely. He is insane in all the right ways.

ultimateforce posted:

Big engine bays: LS
Long engine bays: 2JZ
Front wheel drive bays: K20

There, I just fixed every car.
Add the jeep 4.0 for when you absolutely, positively must add a quarter ton of dead weight to your frontend and might hydrolock it or forget to put oil/coolant in it occasionally.

The nutjobs at HotRod magazine built a 1200hp junkyard "5.3" LSx with a stock bottom end (complete with rust etching on one bore from sitting in a junkyard with water in the cylinder), changed the ring gap, heads, cam, and two monster turbos and thrashed the poo poo out of it without blowing the engine up, then discovered it was actually a 4.8L. There's a reason I love those drat engines and kinda wish one fit into my build plans.

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


shoopeach posted:

I think I see it on your bellhousing, but make sure you get an extended speed bleeder like the one below if you don't already have it. It makes bleeding the clutch a million times easier.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-R...eder,41385.html

Hmmm ... looking at the bellhousing, I'm assuming the hex shaped protuberance is the bleeder?

In that case, I think I will invest in one of those remote bleeders. Do they need to be mounted lower than the throwout bearing, or are they designed to be used with a power bleeder, and the remote bleeder can be tucked up higher in the engine bay somewhere?





Also, the only thing I managed to get done today was to clean up my work cave a little bit.




Edit: Also got some fine garnet for my beadblaster. Holy poo poo, I don't know exactly what they gave me when they sold the machine to me, but goddam it was harsh on aluminium. I think they gave me crushed glass, not even beads; they were 0.85mm, which I think works out to be about 30 grit.

XtaC fucked around with this message at Oct 26, 2013 around 06:21

Holdbrooks
Dec 31, 2004



I second the remote bleeder. I put mine together for like $20 and can bleed the clutch from the driver seat

some texas redneck
May 12, 2006

This custom title now 800% more creepy!





I was mostly a lurker there after the [H] spinoff. But that's not a name you see at all, ever, these days.

I still log in like once a year, but I don't think I've posted in at least 4-5 years.

XtaC posted:

I'll be using the Holley ECU instead of the GM one.

2. The Holley system can self tune (and actually seems to do it pretty drat well). This will mean no trip to the dyno for initial tuning, or for subsequent mods; this will save me significant amounts of cash and time later on.

The GM ecu is shockingly capable. Though you'd still need the ECU itself, and someone with tuning software...

kastein posted:

That's denmah on youtube most likely. He is insane in all the right ways.

Nailed it.

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs


Are you going to have to box out the floor to fit the masters on that tilton setup?

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


mafoose posted:

Are you going to have to box out the floor to fit the masters on that tilton setup?

Yup, from looking at it, I will need to put a pretty small extension box on the floor/firewall. It shouldn't be too big, but I need to buy the MCs before I will know 100% how big it will be.

The other thing I am thinking about, is how to secure the pedals to the floor.

I think I'll have to talk to the Engineer who is going to approve it.

I'm pretty sure the pedals have 4 bolt holes for securing them. I'm not super keen on just through bolting them to the floor; I kinda like the idea of some extra reinforcing of some sort. Maybe a bolt-in plate than runs across the floor and bolts through the either side, into the trans tunnel maybe, and the outside frame rail area ....

Something like this perhaps?



I'd like them to end up looking something like this:

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


Started to reco the power steering rack today, and came to find that the kit I got does not suit RHD models.

AWESOME.

XtaC
Feb 17, 2011


Not a whole lot to report, just made some progress on cleaning the engine up a bit.

Start:



End for the day:



I've also actually cleaned both externals sides of the motor, and the valley side of the heads; the camera battery died on me

davebo
Nov 15, 2006

Parallel lines do meet, but they do it incognito

I already have a Corvette with an LS1 and I'm still jealous. It's like one of my childhood dream cars with my 20's actual car combined.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

aventari
Mar 20, 2001

I SWIFTLY PENETRATED YOUR MOMS MEAT TACO WHILE AGGRESSIVELY FONDLING THE UNDERSIDE OF YOUR DADS HAIRY BALLSACK, THEN RIPPED HIS SAUSAGE OFF AND RAMMED IT INTO YOUR MOMS TAILPIPE. I JIZZED FURIOUSLY, DEEP IN YOUR MOMS MEATY BURGER WHILE THRUSTING A ANSA MUFFLER UP MY GREASY TAILHOLE

You can get a manual rack out of an 83 944. That's the only year the 944 didn't have P/S.


Cached Money posted:

Sweet project, I know some people are gonna scream that it's somehow sacrilegious to put that engine in that car but I say just go mad with this because it's gonna be cool as gently caress.

The only people I've seen like that here are the Rotary Anti-defamation League

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply
«3 »