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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cached Money posted:

Sweet project, I know some people are gonna scream that it's somehow sacrilegious to put that engine in that car but I say just go mad with this because it's gonna be cool as gently caress.

Those people can gently caress right off. I've driven two 944s with LS motors in them and they are phenomenal.

I'll go pull my pile of notes on the gauge stuff. I've got a decent amount of information on it as I'm planning the same swap at some point in the future. I just need to find the right turbo shell - doing it on an NA shell is just too expensive/annoying.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BrokenKnucklez posted:

How much difference in weight distribution is there between the turbo motor and an LSX? I would imagine there cant be anything that awful right?

About 30 to 40 pounds, obviously depending on which LS motor you use.

It's basically not much more than the different between RHD and LHD model weight distribution when stock (RHD have batteries in the back because the stock battery location would interfere with the swapped-over brake booster placement).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BrokenKnucklez posted:

That sounds easy.... Will the rear end be able to handle the power (more like the torque) form the LS motor?

That's one of the reasons I won't use an NA platform for this. The NA ones will hold if you're gentle, but I don't think it's a great idea. The turbo transaxles are a tried and true formula for this swap and should do very nicely providing you aren't going around drag racing (which will break that audi piece of poo poo with stock motor/stock power).

IOwnCalculus posted:

That said, there is a third option on the brakes - if you are maintaining the power steering, you can switch to hydroboost and use the power steering pump to provide your brake assist. You'd need custom lines but the hydroboost unit is much smaller in diameter, about the same as the master cylinder + brake lines itself.

The popular option on higher dollar "948" builds is an electric power booster. But those things are like a grand.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I've never understood the desire to run aftermarket EFI controllers on the LS1 - the factory piece works great, is well supported, and is very easily reprogrammed.

All modern GM ECUs are pretty awesome in that respect. The latest LML Duramaxes are causing some issues at the moment, but I'm sure someone (EFI Live) will sort it out. It seems to be an after-effect of the GM parts bin philosophy. One that actually works out well for gear heads: make one ECU that you can drop some different code or parameters on and use it it several different things.

The only thing that is problematic at the moment is the EPA suing a lot of the companies that make hardware/software for tuning. They've put several out of business in the last few years, but EFI Live seems to be doing pretty much OK since they're off shore (based in New Zealand).

In any case, hell yeah on using the GM ECU as a "standalone".

And, as promised I dug out some notes. LT1/LS1/LS6 ECU tach output signal should work 100% fine unless your ECU was flashed to put out an 8-cyl tach signal (typically they are 4-cyl.....why that is the case I don't know). If yours is outputting an 8-cyl signal a single resistor change will get you close enough that you can calibrate it accurately with the internal trim pot.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

aventari posted:

You can get a manual rack out of an 83 944. That's the only year the 944 didn't have P/S.

Moot since he doesn't want manual steering, but a lot of us are just running depowered power racks. No need to go through all of the ridiculous things people suggest (removing valves, filling with ATF/grease/whatever and looping the lines). Just drive on it. It works fine.

Parking sucks, but the rest of the driving is very much improved.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

HotCanadianChick posted:

This. Give your 944 a try with the current rack with the fluid lines blocked off. It's not really that much effort for any vehicle under 3000 lbs to steer it with a manual rack. Plus road feel is vastly improved at speed when there's no power assist.

That way, if you try it and find out you still hate it, you always have the option to drop coin to reconnect the power pump at a later time, and if you do decide you don't mind manual, you just saved the money you were going to spend on getting your pump system reconfigured for the new engine.

Noooo! Don't block them off :) You need to let them free or it won't work (it will bind). It will eventually stop dripping.

But on the rest: hell yeah. It's a better car with a manual rack. The stop power steering is really pretty overpowered to the point of deadening your feel for the road.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

InitialDave posted:

Isn't the best option to just run some cheap rubber hose from port to port? That way you won't get crud in it.

I suppose you could do that. But what are you trying to save in there? The seals that hold the ATF you'll never put in it again?

Mine are zip tied to the rack. For the last 5 years. All is well.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Right....these are things near the realm of the "ridiculous things people suggest" I mentioned earlier. I'm not the only one that is driving around without doing any of that whatsoever for half a decade or more with absolutely no ill effects. And yes, using the car as a daily driver and not just in fair weather. It's just too much fun in the snow to not drive through slop.

Of course nothing that was suggested would hurt anything at all (other than blocking off the lines without removing the valving in the rack which would requite removing it first). My point was simply that it's been shown by people who actually own and daily drive these cars to be unnecessary. I think I'm probably one of maybe two people on this forum who has that experience.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


Oh, good....your're both awake and not chasing drug dealers.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You've never worked at a lovely garage as a mechanic or known someone who has? You're gonna have to run the wrecker also. That's how it works unless you have a massive AAA or duty tow contract. There's no money to keep a driver holding down a stool in the shop all day to handle one or two calls per shift.

And it was a pay upgrade from being a paramedic/firefighter. And fewer biologicals to deal with.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

XtaC posted:

I'm pretty sure I'm going to run the Drivers side exhaust (side with starter and steering shaft), forward, around the front of the engine, and out the Passenger side.

I genuinely can't see another way of doing it, and getting a reasonable diameter pipe in there, and not dumping huge amounts of heat into the starter motor.

Are you trying to use the stock headers? I've never seen an exhaust routing like that on one of these swaps....but I've also never seen anyone attempt to use the stock stuff.

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