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DefaultPeanut posted:a somehow street legal EZ90.  I would love one of these weirdo bikes one day. Street legal would be even better. They look like fisher price designed a motorcycle Douchey photos of one with a headlight:  I have weird taste in bikes.
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Nov 2, 2014 16:30
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 09:22 |
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Don't be ashamed of your love for the Cub. The 80s future was the best future.
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Nov 2, 2014 16:36
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Cubs own Buy one and do this: http://youtu.be/JOnErfo2X2k
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Nov 2, 2014 18:22
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Cubs own Do it: 
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Nov 4, 2014 00:58
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Oh god I want that so bad. A ski-scooter would have been perfect for getting from the pad to the mountain powder days.
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Nov 4, 2014 20:37
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Boys who love boys
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A little while back I got a '75 Suzuki T500. It had been working OK. The brakes barely functioned and the tires are the originals, so I didn't ride it a lot. It started just fine without a lot of kicking, though, and seemed plenty powerful. I put it away a few months ago. Tanked it up and put some fuel stabilizer in, just as the least I could do until I got back to it later. I just checked the bike and it seems to have pissed all its gasoline away. The petcock was definitely set to off. So what the hell? I'd normally assume a carb float got stuck, but even if that happened it shouldn't let gas flood out of the tank without the fuel petcock turned on, right? I guess I'll take the tank and carbs off and start cleaning and replacing things, but what should I do about the rest of the bike? Is there a procedure for making sure everything is good to go in the event that the crankcase may have filled with gasoline? And if the gas didn't get out via carbs how else could it have? The tank doesn't have a hole in it. I do kind of like this stupid bike, but I should have got a Kawi triple instead, and one that doesn't need quite so much attention to work correctly, anyway.
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Jan 14, 2015 20:32
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Frosty- posted:A little while back I got a '75 Suzuki T500.
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Jan 15, 2015 02:26
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Frosty- posted:A little while back I got a '75 Suzuki T500. It had been working OK. The brakes barely functioned and the tires are the originals, so I didn't ride it a lot. It started just fine without a lot of kicking, though, and seemed plenty powerful. Petcock might just be lovely. I replaced all the seals in the one in my TS400 and it still leaked when turned to off. Buying a new one fixed the problem.
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Jan 15, 2015 03:04
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Frosty- posted:A little while back I got a '75 Suzuki T500. It had been working OK. The brakes barely functioned and the tires are the originals, so I didn't ride it a lot. It started just fine without a lot of kicking, though, and seemed plenty powerful. Bad petcock gasket. Dont feel too bad about getting a stupid Suzuki stroker, they really were the best of the 70's two-strokes, even though (and partially because) they didnt make as much power as the H1/etc.
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Jan 15, 2015 04:14
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Bad petcock gasket. Dont feel too bad about getting a stupid Suzuki stroker, they really were the best of the 70's two-strokes, even though (and partially because) they didnt make as much power as the H1/etc. How were they the best? I'd literally never heard of a T500. What makes them better than the RDs of the time?
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Jan 15, 2015 17:59
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n8r posted:How were they the best? I'd literally never heard of a T500. What makes them better than the RDs of the time? I read somewhere that Suzuki had their oil injection set up to lube the crank bearings more-or-less directly so they last forever. The Yamahas inject the oil at the carburetor which is less precise.
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Jan 15, 2015 18:09
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n8r posted:How were they the best? I'd literally never heard of a T500. What makes them better than the RDs of the time? The oiling was much more sophisticated and conducive to longevity. The rd's basically drool oil into the carb Venturi, and oiling is up to air flow. The Suzukis inject oil straight into the bearings, where it needs to be. That enables them to get much longer life while using less oil. Rd's need to be rebuilt every 10-15k, give or take. The GT series could run for an exceptionally long time without a rebuild, so much so that when they combined that excellent oiling with liquid cooling in the gt750, it actually worked well as a touring bike, which is not typically something two strokes were happy about. Now, to be fair, the yamahas always made more power for similar displacement, and nowadays that makes them a bit more desirable than the gt's because no one in tyool 2015 tours on a two stroke, but back in the day when two strokes were common and people used them for utilitarian purposes, the gt's were the hot ticket. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jan 16, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 22:00
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I think Suzuki called it CCI. It injected two stroke oil after the carburetor, or somewhere thereabouts, and also the main side bearings, which shared a gallery with the wrist pin and big end bearing. When I worked at a bike wrecker, almost every Suzuki with an injection setup would be in great condition engine wise. The rest of the bike would fall apart around the engine.
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Jan 16, 2015 05:09
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Here's a couple diagrams in the clymer manual that came with my bike. It injects at two points: one after the carb, another into the bearings, and the pump is driven off the engine.  You can see the oil lines and their injection points here. 
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Jan 17, 2015 18:53
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I will say other manufacturers wised up eventually. Kawi was the first to copy the Suzuki CCI system, Yamaha did later as well, but by then the street two stroke boom was mostly over
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Jan 18, 2015 03:02
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^^ Clean bike, what is it?
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Jan 18, 2015 05:47
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A 1974 Suzuki TS400. Jeff Weier does some ridiculously clean restorations of vintage bikes, including a lot of old two strokes. Check it out. http://www.jeffweier.com/
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Jan 18, 2015 08:22
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:the street two stroke boom was mostly over
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Jan 18, 2015 18:02
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I was told recently that back in the 50s/60s you could get premixed 2t gas at stations in Germany. I can't prove this though. Here in the Netherlands gas stations sold it until, at least the late 90s. I figured that was a common thing?
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Jan 18, 2015 22:27
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What does one do if your bike wants, say a 50:1 oil mix ratio and they offer 40:1? Or if you need 35:1? Seems like a weird choice to offer 2t gas right at the pump, unless they have some sort of pre-mixing system where you dial your ratio in before pumping.
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Jan 19, 2015 09:35
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I was told recently that back in the 50s/60s you could get premixed 2t gas at stations in Germany. I can't prove this though. Was available at special pumps at most gas stations in Sweden up until the 1980s, at least.
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Jan 28, 2015 06:32
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Was available at special pumps at most gas stations in Sweden up until the 1980s, at least.
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Jan 28, 2015 16:26
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Just in case anyone might have suspected I'm not an idiot: I braved the insanely cold garage to go take a look at the bike. Maybe take the tank off and start working on that (kinda rusty inside and marked up on the outside) while I found a new petcock or a petcock rebuild kit. Something must have gone wrong in my brain when I parked it last, because instead of leaving it "on" the way I was supposed to I turned it to "pri". So the petcock is probably fine, though the owner of the bike is a doofus.Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:If you ever crash it and want to sell the engine, let me know. For reals. Slim Pickens posted:Petcock might just be lovely. I replaced all the seals in the one in my TS400 and it still leaked when turned to off. Buying a new one fixed the problem. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Dont feel too bad about getting a stupid Suzuki stroker, they really were the best of the 70's two-strokes, even though (and partially because) they didnt make as much power as the H1/etc. Since I was resigned to pulling it at least a little bit apart anyway, I think I'm going to go forward with that. I need to remove the tank and clear the rust out, and get some kind of coating in there. I also have to fix the brakes; it needs new everything, since they don't work at all. The cables must be stretched, so I need some of those and I assume it needs new shoes. What's the procedure for ensuring that the brakes are working correctly? I know next to nothing about drums. The suspension is also gone. I think I should take the wheels and suspension bits off, and have someone else deal with the forks and rear shocks while I handle getting brakes and tires done. Any recommendations for books or sites or stores or whatever I can use to start to build a clearer picture of how I should begin? I have a PDF copy of the shop manual and a couple links to some sites that have a small handful of parts (some not so immediately useful, like nice chambers), but in spite of hitting Google and forums and YouTube pretty hard I haven't learned a great deal.
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Feb 2, 2015 23:34
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Ripoff posted:What does one do if your bike wants, say a 50:1 oil mix ratio and they offer 40:1? Or if you need 35:1? Seems like a weird choice to offer 2t gas right at the pump, unless they have some sort of pre-mixing system where you dial your ratio in before pumping. My guess would be that it was setup for scooters and everyone else just dealt with it.
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Feb 3, 2015 04:48
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Forgive me, for I have sinned, and have been paying the price. I found a 2008 YZ250F for a pretty good deal, seeing as it was in need of some love. the PO had rebuilt the engine with a poor quality aftermarket crank that let go after only a few hours. While in there, they replaced every transmission bearing, and clutch along with installing a Wiseco 290 big bore kit. I started into the engine thinking I could get away with doing a crank and main bearings. Nope. What I'm guessing is that when they were installing the bearings, they used a press and went a little too far installing the right side mainshaft transmission bearing. The retainer for the bearing was snapped off and had cracked the case. I bought a "good" bottom end from eBay mostly for the cases, but the seller said that the engine was low hours and should just drop in and go. When has a used engine ever been drop in and go? The big end bearing on the connecting rod had play, and the journal at the top of the rod had galling marks around it. The seller said he had never had the engine apart, just the top end off. Funny, I pulled the clutch cover to get at the crank and found that there were no oil pump rotors... at all. Every nut and bolt to get to that point were completely and the gaskets looked to be untouched. Someone went through a lot of trouble to nick a $16 set of pump rotors. The transmission from the eBay engine was completely lunched; the shift forks were trashed, the dogs on the gears were nearly rounded off and every bearing in the case was notchy. All of the transmission bearings from the original engine are OEM and in prefect shape, so I changed them over to the good cases, installed new main bearings and the crank and called it a night. The transmission and shift fork set from the engine that came with the bike are in usable shape - the PO never mentioned shifting problems or popping out of gear.  Passable  Trash  Ready to go 
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Feb 6, 2015 06:54
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Generally something you don't wanna see when you go to check the timing on your bike.  Not sure what caused it, I think the strong-rear end magnets mushed it and broke the wire. Guess I'll see what a new stator costs, or what it runs for a rebuild.
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Feb 15, 2015 03:03
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Something for sure got whipped around in there. Bolt, screw, rock, chunk of magnet? Same thing happened to my YSR stator - a screw backed out, cought the flywheel and wrecked poo poo up. If the stator plate is not broken, unwind wraps from the coil until the damaged wire is gone (within reason) and connect it like should be.
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Feb 15, 2015 08:30
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The way the indents on those cardboard endcaps look makes me thing something got pressed on it instead of whirled around between the flywheel and stator. If a couple wraps of copper don't matter I'll just do that, then.
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Feb 15, 2015 09:14
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The air filter set came with some main jets that turned out to be way too huge and would struggle to rev past 6000 rpm unless wide open and screamed past that rpm range. I forgot what jets are in there. The land lord says no pets because you can never get the smell out. Fueled motorcycles inside are no problem though.   In other news, install poo poo properly the first time.  Someone did some upgrades on a set of 2013 CRF250R forks and coked up the right fork. The slip that is bent to poo poo should be the top most part, with the aluminum washer capturing it, to keep it from doing what it did. the aluminum tube to the right of the spring is what the spring seats against in the fork on the top side. When that circlip failed, it was most likely coming off of a fairly large jump and had a good portion of the force of the sprung weight and momentum pushing against it. For these model forks, all of the spring pressure is transmitted through two of those circlips and the grooves they sit in. That little oversight by whoever did the fork setup is going to cost a dampening assembly, spring seat, the washer, aluminum retainer and clip, plus everything for a regular fork service. Proper  The rest of the bike in question is a complete turd - both intake valves zeroed out so you could not even spin the bucket. Both turned out to be -0.002" Front rim bent and smashed all over the place, linkage bearings trashed, rear disk bent, levers and bars bent, kick starter falling off, low coolant, transmission oil plug missing the o ring, and ejecting most of the oil. How do people let their bikes slip into such poo poo condition.
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Mar 12, 2015 08:23
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I just figured out what might be wrong with my 1983 Suzuki FA50. I heard a rumor that a bent reed could cause my bike to bog and die at 20mph. Is it possible to flip the reed over and it should close the gap or is that just stupid nonsense? I bought a new carb and gaskets and finally after a year and a half realized all of this could be because of a reed valve problem.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:55
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Minkee posted:I just figured out what might be wrong with my 1983 Suzuki FA50. I heard a rumor that a bent reed could cause my bike to bog and die at 20mph. Is it possible to flip the reed over and it should close the gap or is that just stupid nonsense? Flip them bad boys over! They should be steel on your bike. When you have them apart, take a close look at the reed cage / seat and look for any bubbling or tears. I had a poo poo set of reed cages on my RD200 and it would not let them seal closed properly. Sometimes the rubber is torn, or like mine, the aluminum had began to corrode and push up, creating a high spot, keeping the reed open.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:14
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I tried to pull the reed valve off to flip the reeds when changing the carb today, but no amount of pb blaster, and screwdrivers with vise grips was going to take it off. Good news is after the new carb and gasket it did start for the first time in 2 years. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKKFnM33w9A
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Mar 23, 2015 03:39
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 09:22 |
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Minkee posted:I tried to pull the reed valve off to flip the reeds when changing the carb today, but no amount of pb blaster, and screwdrivers with vise grips was going to take it off. Good news is after the new carb and gasket it did start for the first time in 2 years. That's an awesome little bike!
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Mar 27, 2015 18:20
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