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pull the radiator, mix a fairly strong batch of oxyclean/water, bring it to almost a boil, pour it in and let it sit overnight, It supposedly eats calcium deposits, I've not tried it yet. I do know CLR/white vinegar can be used in our copper/brass radiators with no ill effect. (do NOT do this if its been swapped with an aluminum)
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Jan 26, 2014 04:12
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heyou posted:with a bad head gasket Well that's redundant. They all have bad head gaskets. heyou posted:Pretty sure someone already replaced the rear driveshaft guibo with a u-joint. 98+ came with u-joints from the factory. cursedshitbox posted:pull the radiator, mix a fairly strong batch of oxyclean/water, bring it to almost a boil, pour it in and let it sit overnight, It supposedly eats calcium deposits, I've not tried it yet. Or you can buy a tub of oxcalic acid and do it the way we used to before they neutered all the radiator flushes available. One cup dissolved into some warm water circulated, left in for somewhere between a few minutes and an hour or so (depending on how bad it is) will do the trick. You then need to FLUSH THE poo poo OUT OF THE RADIATOR or the acid will keep eating at it. After you've sure you got it all out (you didn't) you mix up and entire box of baking soda in some warm water and circulate THAT through the cooling system and then flush again. D1 radiators are great when they are working properly (and seriously expensive). D2 radiators are poo poo in comparison as well as cheap so they aren't really worth "fixing".
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Jan 26, 2014 15:56
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Some RRCs have Ujoints as well. I'm running cometic MLS gaskets.  theyre....pricey, but god drat they've saved my rear end a dozen times or better. Thanks for the tip on the acid! I used dilluted acetic on the bikes rad a year ago, it was so clogged it didn't do much. Ditto on our copper rads. there was a point in time where I was buying every. single. one and fixing them to re-sell to local customers when theirs took a poo poo. d2 radiators? HAHAHAHA. gently caress any plastic tank'd radiators for what I do in the desert. god drat p38s plastic radiator left me with my pants around my ankles more times than not.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:13
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cursedshitbox posted:Ditto on our copper rads. there was a point in time where I was buying every. single. one and fixing them to re-sell to local customers when theirs took a poo poo. Mine was so clogged as well as so eaten up by salt that it wasn't worth saving. A re-core would have cost more than a new one. So I brought it to my scrap metal place and got $85 for it - suckers - most of that was garbage that was clogging it. Made dropping $300+ on the new one just a bit easier to deal with. And, byt the way......when it's below freezing I have to put cardboard in front of it now to get any heat (I do the same as you with drilling bleed holes in stats). I'm actually considering buying a genuine stat with a jiggler to see if it will heat the truck up without my "adjustable thermostat" (folded over box).
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Jan 26, 2014 19:23
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The core on this one is in decent shape for now. I'm thinking about converting it to use the MB G05 coolant instead of green. Mine will do that too when I'm comin' down the mountain with it below freezing out, otherwise the temps don't dip down. The one I pictured earlier is a new oem one that I've never used. 
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Jan 26, 2014 20:33
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cursedshitbox posted:Mine will do that too when I'm comin' down the mountain with it below freezing out, otherwise the temps don't dip down. I have 1/3 of my rad covered with cardboard right now and I can't make it above 140. If I cover 1/2 of it or move the 1/3 block to the center I get above 200 and it will continue to creep uncomfortably high when I'm going slow. There seems to be no happy middle (185 degree stat). So I just drive around cold for the moment. Maybe I should cover 1/4 of each side  It really is amazing how well these rads work when they aren't all shitted up.
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Jan 26, 2014 21:14
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cursedshitbox posted:BL/Rover cheaped out when this chassis was originally designed in the 70s, they cut costs and threw a single cardan in but left the angles the same. Bad news for a lift. After they made the 101 in the 60's/70's with single cardan props at such angles that the UJ binds and hits itself as stock (trademark 101 prop rumble) why would they bother with double cardan? 
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Jan 27, 2014 01:29
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Even here in hell they do pretty good. I know a few people that run partially clogged ones and they cant be bothered to fix it, their trucks just keep going, even when its 125 outside. I have a 180 stat, most of the time temps hover 175-185 depending on how hard my foots in it. I've yet to go through a full summer with this one yet. the p38 was regularly around 195. it *would* spike to 210-215 on halloran pass @ non-legal speeds with the a/c on and the out door temp at 120. E:http://wikimapia.org/24673889/Baker-Grade I abuse-test everything on this stretch of road. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 01:30
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cursedshitbox posted:port the heads and toss a cam in it. that should get the 4.0 to around 200-220hp. After looking into it, I'm going to put in a stock 4.6 cam when I do the heads. Might as well do the oil pump and timing chain as well. Do I need stock 4.6 lifters with the new cam, or will (new) stock 4.0 lifters work? Haven't been able to find a definitive answer. Any possibility of putting a 4.6 intake on the 4.0, or just have the machine shop port my current intake? heyou fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jan 29, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2014 04:22
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both sets of lifters and intakes are the same. iirc sbc/sbb lifters are drat close if not exact too. Crower sells new sets for under $100. E: Minor content post  Parts score! got this pile of poo poo super cheap from a guy one of my customers met. Safari gard tie rod guard ARB snorkel set some overpriced aluminum generic-ish steering guard.  First up, the steering guard. This was easy to install and gave me no issues. although now it works as a fantastic catch for my leaky rear end steering box, and it bounces oil filters nicely.   No template to install this evil wanker. took me 5ish hours. I made my own template. measured, cut, cut again, measured. rinse lather swear repeat.   one tight-rear end-enginebay. Dual battery means I had to move my power steering reservoir. air box had to move towards the engine. Just gently caress on top of gently caress. intake tube was a modified p38 one, P/S hoses are modified because I bolted it to the lower air box. I absofuckinglutely hate working on the engine now. Next in project row: Jerkin trannies 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jan 29, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2014 04:29
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   Some crosspostage from the offroad thread:  linked for huge: http://imgur.com/1YXuClg http://imgur.com/iyPYjzp
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Jan 31, 2014 09:18
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Earlier on, the PO told me that he replaced the clutch, well, when I pulled the engine, I found out he didn't. So I order a oem sachs one off ebay, it was supposed to arrive in roughly 4-5 days. Great! I'm down to 15% or so clutch left, so there will be plenty of time to get this done. wrong. loving prick took almost a month to get this thing to me, and USPS used the clutch set in a shot-put competition apparently. I was going to do transmission/transfercase seals at the same time, so I ordered a full set from ENGLAND, they arrived 3 weeks ahead of the clutch, that shipped from a few states over. step 1: strip the console  This gives you fantastic access to all of the plugs, and some of the harder to reach bell housing bolts.  200,000 miles of grime and leaks. That crossmember never goes back in either. gently caress that drat thing.    Progress!  Now its out. that is one filthy, dirty tranny. this was also great time to replace my transfercase shifter as the nylon bushings disintegrated. Only casualties was the VSS plug. it broke when I tried to remove it.  I split everything for cleaning, I also repalced the handbrake cable at this time as it broke several weeks prior.  the very, very tired disc. I wanted this done before it wore to the rivets, as it eats a $900 dollar flywheel.  this is the output shaft of the R380 manual transmission. this is the weak spot of the whole show. these are notorious for wearing away into nothing around 120K miles. for something with around 200k, not loving bad. this was a major reason why I pulled the trans instead of just dropping it a few inches.  new disc fitted, rear main, and all that jazz. I was able to sit up-right in the tunnel to install the parts. :feelsgoodman:  My clean(er) tranny. It fell off the jack once, and that was enough for me to get pissed and use alternative methods.  alternative method: successful.  Farted tihs thing to the original Y pipe flange so that I'm not dealing with a 2" half rotten exhaust with a knockoff flowmaster.
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Feb 5, 2014 01:21
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 That is loving genius and I am so doing that the next time I have to drop a transmission.
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Feb 5, 2014 02:08
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drat, add that to my "remove bellhousing bolts and stomp on the clutch to split engine from transmission" trick and a clutch job is suddenly a hell of a lot less painful. I need to remember that idea.
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Feb 5, 2014 03:47
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kastein posted:drat, add that to my "remove bellhousing bolts and stomp on the clutch to split engine from transmission" trick and a clutch job is suddenly a hell of a lot less painful. Used this trick on the Subie a couple months ago, only in reverse. The engine just wouldn't break free and we were about to break out the pry bars but then I remembered your story about the transmission. One stomp of the clutch pedal and the engine came out without a hitch. Thanks for the tip! 
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Feb 5, 2014 03:58
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MY INTERIOR LIGHTING SUCKS. when these things were designed in the 80s, I think the last thing they wanted was for the occupants to see at night. I camp a lot, haul a lot of stuff, and I must be able to see whats going on. Zitrades makes these nifty little 1.5 watt backup lights. I thought what the hell, throw em in my roof, if anything I'll be able to see the inside of my truck on my next camping trip.  These were actually fairly easy to install. I had to be very careful as to where they're placed, as the rollover protection/sunroof mounts and hvac take up a lot of room.  another angle what I didn't anticipate, is how much drat light I had now.   Seems a little dark where the jumpseats are, I'll take care of that later.  Thats more like it. Now I can camp in this fucker and see. I also wanted a over-ride switch as the body computer shuts the lights off after 15 minutes.  I cut into the left rear housing and put in this gang plate. 1 switchole for dome light over ride, one for rear camping lights.  Temporary backlit contura switches.  and final mod for this update. these plastic air bleed plugs break regularly. the old RRCs use brass. You can cheat and use the diff-fill plug or a 3/4" terminator for iron gas pipe, but this is the most original of the bunch.
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Feb 9, 2014 05:13
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvwd13F_1Gs Aziz, light! Looks good, but man those LEDs are bright.
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Feb 9, 2014 05:43
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Thats one of my favorite movies bwahaha. More light!  This is the stock headlamp output on the FZR. Seems okay, but at night, Its terrible. 1980s lighting technology sucked rear end. I have this epic poo poo form of colorblindness called a blue tritanomaly. I don't see blues all that well. People that run around with blue/purple HIDs screw my eyes to the point I have to pull over and wait for them to pass. (nevermind the fact the loving cluster I bought has a indiglo backlight ugh)  They were re-aimed post this photo too. I went with yellow as my eyes respond the best with this color. at a later date I'll retrofit projectors, but the beam pattern is so drat bad, it really isn't brighter than what was there. and being like everything else cheap-lovely-ebay, one of the ballasts is flakey.   Me loving with the ballast so I can get home.
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Feb 10, 2014 04:27
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I love frankenbike. I need to get myself a lovely bike to gently caress around with.
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Feb 10, 2014 06:42
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cursedshitbox posted:Thats one of my favorite movies bwahaha. Mark this date on the calendar so we can celebrate it's anniversary next year. 2/10/14- CSB gets a movie reference 
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Feb 10, 2014 16:26
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Hey! I watched Office Space finally.
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Feb 10, 2014 17:44
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cursedshitbox posted:Hey! I watched Office Space finally. It probably cost as much to rent as it would cost to buy on DVD. A decade and change later, the introduction still slays me.
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Feb 10, 2014 22:46
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I got to learn how much of a huge bitch it is to feed a new spool into a welder with a bad tensioner today.   After pocking chickenshit allover the FZR tail BF comes home and goes oh yeah, the tensioner is hosed up crossing the wire on the spool, its a wonder you were able to weld anything at loving all. Its hidden. it'll keep it from warping/flexing. Fucks given: 0.
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Feb 11, 2014 09:05
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I suck at carbs. This loving bike has not started on its own since the yzf600 engine swap 2 years ago, its always needed a shot of ether when cold. Until today. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ooBOWs_qvY holy mother of gently caress it sounds pissed off.
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Feb 13, 2014 01:24
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BUS PORN. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4WvGCt8rcw E: belt driven squirrel cage fan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rq7wndPZoU8    it was a fun drive. The electrical panel looks about as bad as the 54' that I owned. but I'm getting paid to fix this one.  Rover stuff:  New console. Old switches. Discovery IIs use a better seat switch, and tends to get less shitted up with grime. I didnt quite know at the time that the holes for the disco II console was bigger. There was also no wiring diagrams for the new switches. I figured it out any way and made a new plug for it.    Drivers done! Passenger doesnt loving matter to me. (DIIs have different options settings for passenger seats, a 8 way movement switch is hard to find, so I'm still waiting) lovely gaitors.  Seriously. these things had cigarette holes in em and generally looked terrible. I made new ones out of a thick latex.  its basically cut, clean, glue, wait, install.    
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Feb 14, 2014 |
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Feb 14, 2014 00:56
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What kind of motor is the bus? I'm assuming some kind of diesel.
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Feb 14, 2014 05:03
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Detroit 6v92TA silver. 6 cyl, v config, 92ci per cylinder, turbo, aftercooled. For a fatty hooked to a allison 740 automatic, it scoots. and you can hear the turbo whine from the drivers berth.
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Feb 14, 2014 05:59
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I added a rear facing camping/worklight to the truck.   All of the streetside panels had to come out (again, ugh) and I had to drill a few holes in the bodywork then fish the wiring through.   Its massively bright. But being that its a Chinese knockoff, 2/3 of the lights burnt out within 10 minutes. I swapped it with the other one, and the same thing happened. Oh well!  Even though mostly dead, it is still retarded bright.
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Feb 17, 2014 20:30
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 I bought these little amphenol plugs on ebay with caps.  I also bought a bunch of the cheap usb car chargers. I gutted both, then glued em together. Of all the modifications I've done on this truck. This one right here is my favorite.  L322 Range Rover cargo lamp with 12v outlet.  I also lumped in a hub service.  Disco 1s use full float axles. If I had steel wheels, I could pull it all apart with out even removing the tire/wheel.  Harbor freight bottle jack lifting the truck off its springs. I got these springs ~4 years ago on my first 5 speed d1. when I parted the truck they went on a couple different P38s. I had to flip them around as the P38 is front heavy. well when I put em back on the D1, I totally forgot that its rear end heavy, and hence it sagged a little (a lot) and drove me insane. I almost ordered new springs when I did some drunken math and found out I could swap them around and get the truck near level. This brings the project to current times more or less. In roughly 2 weeks I'm taking the truck to TDS/Truckhaven. I've a laundry list of poo poo that has to be done. Extended brake lines need installed, 2 Tie rod ends are a little loose, I've gotta install my tie rod guard, delete the dead steering damper, rewnew the front radius arm bushings, replace the rear pinion seal, order a spare tire, wire the 12v outlet and add the other usb charger. I'm also going to go to a Mercedes expansion tank for the radiator, the F250 one is pissing me off. I need to pilfer some battery hold downs too.
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Feb 20, 2014 20:18
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I thought the F250 bottle would have been better. Well anything is better unless you own a classic with metal poo poo 
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Feb 20, 2014 20:46
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gently caress youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu. There was a guy in socal wanting to sell me a metal bottle for 150. I told him to get bent. Bottle worked great in a P38. there isnt enough hood clearance to get it high enough above the radiator, so it ends up puking out the extra, and running it low on coolant.
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Feb 20, 2014 21:00
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  Making a rover better one random manufacturer at a time. yank'd this bottle from a W202 C class MB. Standard rad cap @ 20psi, and it has a low coolant sensor. This sensor will get connected to an arduino board that'll flash/audible sound whenever it runs low on coolant, backup function will set a audible warning when temp crosses 215*F.  Some garage art I also picked up. E: gently caress YOU ATLANTIC SHITTISH. I ordered poo poo from you wednesday morning and paid shipping for it to be here today. Bushings won't be here till monday. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Feb 21, 2014 |
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Feb 21, 2014 19:32
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The bushings that were supposed to be here friday, arrived this morning.  black bushes are radius arm to frame bushings. these are usually thrashed by 100,000 miles, and a lift will kill em even faster. the orange bushes are voided polyurethane bushes. the stock has 3 steel rings that restrict axle travel, these will allow the radius arms to not act as a sway bar at the cost of onroad handling. the last part, is the early style rover pinion seal.  First arm out. these fuckers are heavy too at around 40-50lb. You can clearly see the old factory bushings.  View under the truck  I used the patented E30 subframe removal method on the old bushings. 1. Torch until flaming. 2. use a sawzall and cut the rest up. 3. punch out with a huge socket. The polybushes got a little bit of lube and pressed in with no fits. Quite possibly the easiest bushing job I've ever done.  New RA bushes vs old RA bushes. I was getting a minor clonk under braking, and its these guys every time. I did one side at a time and the axle still partially supported the truck, overall it went smooth.  Pinion seal! The old one is in my hand, this is for a later style diff flange. I replaced this one back in october, and it still weeped. there is a minor difference between the two. This should cure the weeping. you can also see my somewhat-tested E39 brakelines in the background that I installed saturday. Those with a quick eye noticed my steering damper missing. its more or less shot anyway. If there is no deathwobble post 50mph, means my swivel pins are in good shape. if there is deathwobble, I need to pull the pins and check preload/bearing condition. Most rover owners tack on a Peterbilt sized damper to stop the death wobble when infact theres other issues in their front end.
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Feb 25, 2014 02:27
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After rejetting the carbs so that the fucker would start I noticed it ran a bit funny on the highway. I figured the A/F screws needed a little touch. Yeah, one was missing. Not like bent or out of adjustment. It fell off the loving bike. I happen to have a shitload of carb parts so I threaded another one in. then took a vacuum reading. 20-20-28-40. holy jesus gently caress this things out of adjustment. I set the base A/F to 1.8 turns out, and resynced the carbs. it runs so much better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcKIeZLWHcI
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Feb 26, 2014 21:06
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That sounds nice. I've wanted an older carbed bike for a while and this isn't helping.
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Feb 27, 2014 02:51
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Ultragauge arrived and stuffed above the mirror:   extinguisher mount installed. I'll probably toss a 5lber between the two front seats behind the console.   window regulator that broke in november. grabbed parts from the drawer repair isle of home depot. works great. I also bought a spare. but because these tires are quite a bit bigger, it wouldn't fit on the carrier. Impromptu welding project!  plate cut away  Plated and moved up 1" higher.  Where'd the door go?
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Feb 28, 2014 00:19
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Is the fire extinguisher between the seats to bop the bitchy passenger in the head?
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Feb 28, 2014 01:48
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Is the fire extinguisher between the seats to bop the bitchy passenger in the head? Emergency propulsion.
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Feb 28, 2014 01:51
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cursedshitbox posted:Ultragauge arrived and stuffed above the mirror: WASSUP Rover UltraGauge buddy?  (yes, I did have to go back outside to take that pic)
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Feb 28, 2014 03:11
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woah. so jealous of your MPG. hey uhhhh question actually. does your MAF reading output retarded like mine? or is it somewhat correct?
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Feb 28, 2014 04:06
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