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Aww yeah, can't wait to see what you do with this one.
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Jan 24, 2014 00:01
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drat, add that to my "remove bellhousing bolts and stomp on the clutch to split engine from transmission" trick and a clutch job is suddenly a hell of a lot less painful. I need to remember that idea.
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Feb 5, 2014 03:47
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It's brass? Solder/braze a socket for a proper threaded plug on if you can't find something that fits in a few minutes. Problem solved.
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Mar 10, 2014 03:51
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I think I said this on IRC already, but I hope you flushed that ZJ trans cooler out pretty drat thoroughly or your engine is gonna pay the chrysler price 
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Mar 11, 2014 00:26
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Motronic posted:This is unfortunately typical. It's why pressure tests on these blocks are little more than presumptive. Aluminum's coefficient of thermal expansion is something like 60% higher than steel's, I'm not at all surprised. This is why chryco's 4.7 V8 likes to drop valve seats, too, if the heads get too hot they swell more than the valve seat and the light pressfit they put on them is insufficient to keep them in place. I thought it was a dry liner setup though, so unless the aluminum behind a liner is cracked into a water jacket, that won't explain it...
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Mar 13, 2014 19:45
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I still want to know how the gently caress they're going to magnaflux an alloy head. Maybe they're going to dye penetrant test it and tell you they magnafluxed it.
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Mar 17, 2014 21:58
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cursedshitbox posted:definitive fix is to remove the liners. weld the crack, and machine the block for tophat liners. cost is anywhere between $1500 and $4000. Find me a bellhousing pattern for your tranny before you do that. I know a number of people with CNC mills, and there's a bridgeport at work I can hijack whenever I want Oh, and we have a solidworks multi user license I'm allowed to play with after hours.
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Mar 19, 2014 06:52
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I would never go that route unless there was no other option... trying to keep two bellhousing halves concentric and the crank and input shaft parallel while welding old dirty cast aluminum sounds like no fun at all. Boring a bunch of holes in flat aluminum plate? Sure!
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Mar 19, 2014 12:24
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Is a turbo sticking out of the hood supposed to be a bad thing...?
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Mar 26, 2014 18:20
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You can get 16 footers in pretty easily too if you have glass insurance.
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Apr 15, 2014 15:31
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All of the rust falling off of this car is of the finest british manufacture 
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Apr 15, 2014 22:08
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Kill-9 posted:New radiator showed up. Aaaaaand it's wrong. Can you get oil cooler lines for a 92.5+ and either bolt them on, or use their ends plus some hose barbs or AN fittings to adapt your lines to the new radiator? It sounds like it would be in your best interest service/parts availability wise.
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Apr 17, 2014 18:49
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I'm glad I'm not the only one who sees it that way. They even usually come with four or even five burnout tires premounted on wheels, too!
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Apr 22, 2014 14:30
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I want to see what happens if you buy a Freelander.
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Apr 23, 2014 19:10
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BrokenKnucklez posted:they are god drat magnificent machines that can off road better than any other truck/SUV made and have possibly the best road manners of large/midsized SUV. Either you or CSB needs to find your way out here and we can try this theory out for size 
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May 12, 2014 21:36
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something something man tranny with a coarse spline spud shaft something something
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May 12, 2014 23:33
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Honestly I would probably pull the block and have it machined (CSB may disagree, however, and he knows more about these) because even on an iron block I ran with a burnt-through head gasket for a while, there was enough fire polishing/erosion along the escape path to feel with my fingernail. I'd be leery of putting a new head gasket on an alloy engine reowned for blowing head gaskets without going over the fire deck with a flycutter as well as machining the head... unless you clean the surface up and find no evidence of erosion, that is.
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May 19, 2014 04:15
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Terrible Robot posted:Headlights can actually pull a decent amount of power, so adding relays allows you to run more heavy-duty wire to them as well as taking the load off of the switch. On some cars it can actually make a pretty drastic improvement in how bright your lights are depending on how badly the OEM wiring was under-spec'd. Sometimes installing better bulbs can overload the factory harness and cause a fire. FB RX-7s have a super lovely headlight harness and if you upgrade the sealed-beams to H4s you have to upgrade the harness or bad things will happen. Further - the closer to the headlights the relays go (i.e. the more direct the route the power wiring takes from the battery) the better the results will be. Halogen bulbs lifespan is significantly decreased by below spec voltage, as well, because they work on the halogen cycle - basically the filament lasts longer at the extreme high temperature (since halogen bulbs are run hotter than regular incandescents) because the halogen gases in the bulb actually transfer the evaporated tungsten from the inside of the quartz envelope back onto the filament. If you run them under voltage, the halogen cycle doesn't run as efficiently and the material doesn't transfer back to the filament. Since power dissipated goes down with the square of the voltage (P = V2/R) the difference can be very significant even if you're talking about a quarter or a half volt under-spec. That's why it's usually best to run heavy wiring from your battery direct to your relays to the headlamps (with a fuse at the battery positive, naturally) when possible. And use good crimps and a good crimper or solder the connections securely.
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May 30, 2014 03:37
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Pulling the connector and shorting the pins would turn the light on, so since it was already stuck on, it was still on. You've got a short to ground (or 12V, depending on which side of the indicator lamp is switched) on the signal wire from the sensor to the instrument panel or BCM.
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Jun 2, 2014 22:02
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I recommend adding a flex joint somewhere near there. It's telling you something... that it wants to flex and can't. Mine tells me the same thing but I didn't have all my exhaust mounts in place for around 140 miles of fairly punishing driving, so I am ignoring its pleas until it breaks one last time now that all the mounts are present and accounted for
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Jun 3, 2014 01:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That's why you need the rust on your brakes! For friction. No joke, it's been so humid and rainy here that this morning I barely breathed on the brake pedal and locked all 4 up at 20mph because of flash rust on the rotors. Christ I was not expecting that. I wish a big brake upgrade was that easy for me.
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Jul 15, 2014 15:04
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I'm pretty sure 95% of mechanics should be banned from ever doing anything on an auto electrical system aside from swapping sensors. It NEVER ends well.
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Aug 4, 2014 16:09
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Part it out and buy a comanche... you know you want to. You can haul engines in them without a care in the world - and you'll never have to.
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Aug 16, 2014 03:49
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gently caress the e250, it only has a semifloat rear. E350 w/ fullfloat disc brake D60-1SU rear or bust.
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Aug 16, 2014 04:12
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I'm of the opinion that some cars are just cursed. But I would have egged you poor bastards on just to watch the inevitable car-drama and constant failures that only the merging of two cursed Land Rovers (or jeeps...) can produce.
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Aug 21, 2014 20:20
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The leftover parts pile sounds like more fun because I bet you could get a combined few minutes of airtime out of it before it came completely to pieces around you. Call the bad one lovely lovely Bang Bang.
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Aug 21, 2014 20:44
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I don't know why the gently caress a goddamn U-joint isn't good enough. Or failing that, a CV joint.
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Sep 2, 2014 19:29
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 05:26 |
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InitialDave posted:You're an idiot. Ahem, you're forgetting the fuel tank. What's he going to do, use a camelbak full of JP-8?
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Sep 12, 2014 20:28
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