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In September I was involved in an accident where my Rangie was totalled. I immediately started searching craigslist within 200 miles to find an adequate shell to swap most/all of the P38s parts into. I found this red disco in san diego for a thousand bux. I emailed him 3-4 times before the guy actually called me. 2 days post crash, I drove down and bought it. the PO said the engine was trashed but it still ran. AC is dead, ABS freaks out for no reason. Typical wife/child hauler stains and wear everywhere. But it had the loadout I wanted. its a early 1997, Pre eal (fuel tank pump) Rioja red (one of my favorite rover colors), 5 speed, and castor wheels (its not supposed to have these).    Spares! Tons of spare parts. (that I later sell and make basically a free rover) the 8-6-5 4.0 made it back to Las Vegas pulling 17mpg the whole way. Step 1. the deep cleansing. God this thing was loving filthy. coke stains everywhere, dog hair, old food, stuff I hoped to never find out what it was.   He shoved a crap headunit in, more on this later.  rear carpet now better. step 2. Address the 8-6-5 engine. I built a rather strong engine for the rangie as it deserved more than 190 loving hp in sometihng that weighs 6,000lb. The discos engine wasn't worth saving witch such a thing sitting on my shelf.   all that room to work in.  with a engine bay like this you'd think a duramax would fit, but NOPE.  This is why the engine failed, which the PO bragged about the new pan gasket and front cover he just installed. USE LESS RTV YOU MORON.  In with the 4.6! I had to convert the front cover (timing chain cover), oil pump pickup, motor mounts, and a pile of other trivial poo poo. Plus a high flow water pump. I didn't fit a new clutch. PO told me it was recently replaced. This comes back to gently caress me later.   all buckled down and ready for testing... which meant spinning tires around the neighborhood grinning like like a retard.  Now the bumper is hung. this bumper was on the p38. It didn't suffer any damage in the crash. Props to RTE, they make strong poo poo. Next comes more cosmetic work now that the fuckers running.
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Jan 20, 2014 05:17
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Butt dyno throws me around 300. the p38 was technically faster as you could just hold the skinny pedal down. the 5 speed kinda sucks as you have to granny shift the big fucker. Theres a US company advertising 300hp out of a 4.6 with just a cam. I've bumped the CR, had the heads worked over, and the intake is ported. P38 would keep up with the new N/A sport. E: cylinder layout? you mean with the lower intake?
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Jan 20, 2014 05:59
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11 hours. including conversion of the front cover. E: VV: like throw a supercharger on the bastard. 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 06:03
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it is an evolution of the buick 215. quite a lot has changed. but yeah it GM at heart. If it were a slushpump I could diesel it easy. 5 speed? not so much. E: the autobox is actually cheaper to own in the long term.
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Jan 20, 2014 07:09
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3.5, 3.9, 4.2 same guts. 4.0/4.6 same guts. it gets weird when you involve TVR and such as they built some as big as 5.0. I then lifted the truck and overhauled the headliner.   this is what one of these looks like with the headliner and half the trim removed.  The offending headliner.  STRIPPED. the cloth comes off easy, its the foamy sticky bullshit below it thats the nightmare. Oxyclean, dawn dishsoap, and goof off work well. scrub till your fingers bleed, then keep going. I normally replace headliners with cloth, but since this is a truck that I'm going to use off road and throw filthy poo poo in and such, I opted for rubberized undercoating. While this was out I decided to replace the pull cords on the rear nets.  (the nets were fixed 2 weeks later, thank you ebay shipper who took his sweet time shipping parts)  see the floppy dildo of a sunvisor? yeah, when you remove the headliner these break every time, I order a bulkpack of 20 and go through em like a fat kid on pez candy. (bonus toolbox!) LIFT AND SEPERATE This is rather straight foward. throw out the sway bars, cut off the old shocks because the PO cross threaded them in. new cheap-poo poo rancho shocks, springs from the p38 (which this is now the 4th truck these sprigs have been installed on), and the tires from said truck.  done. wait. why does the rear end sag? Oh yeah, SE7 bullshit makes the rear fuckoff heavy. hell with it lets go break it.   First trip out I sink the fucker. To me, this is a good omen. Theres still a lot more lift parts needed, but hey it works.  loving wireless winches are AWESOME until the battery dies. CR2032 you'd think right? No. AA? nope. 12 volt garage door opener battery, guess who didnt have spares. But I did wire it to the car battery. I now keep a pack of 5. gently caress you motoalliance. gently caress me for not having the wired switch. next comes more off road related crap, shafts, cones, and skids.
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Jan 21, 2014 23:24
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leica posted:Has anyone ever just completely re wired a Disco to the bare minimum to make it more reliable out in the field? Sounds like it would be an awful job, but at least once it's done it's one less thing to worry about. Yep! Its better to start with a 94-95 SD model. No sunroofs, manual seats, and simple injection. The roof on a RRC is aluminum and held on with screws. the disco is steel and welded on. the inner body had to be built out of steel for roll over protection. As for the mohawk, after 5 years it was time for something new. 
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Jan 22, 2014 17:48
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The GEMS system is a massive improvement over the older 14cux, but 14cux can run off of 2-3 wires and some hot beer. that said gems engine management will compensate for up to 8psi boost. The later motronic (thor) rover v8s will also do it. Things to come.
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Jan 22, 2014 18:22
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thanks! when it warms up a little more and I sort a few more issues I'll be wheeling it a lot more. I run to and from socal like a second home.
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Jan 23, 2014 05:42
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I'm always game to put it in the dirt. a few rover buddies are trying to talk me into running ocotillo wells. I'll be back there right around the middle of feb.
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Jan 23, 2014 05:48
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Thats still on my to-do list. that dingleberry is worrisome at times.
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Jan 24, 2014 18:13
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Thread needs more bike poo poo too. The motorized and human propelled ones. well it is the biggest shitbox I own, so why not.
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Jan 25, 2014 00:21
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I was gonna leave it for the weekend, but seeing as how theres camping/wheeling and some riding to do, I'll toss in the next segment.  Junkyard Driveshaft upgrade. The rear driveshaft on discos uses a BMW like quibo thats a turd at best. I hosed mine up with a few WOT applications. Lift it, and you chew threw em like the fuel the pig drinks. the other one is a double cardan shaft from a discovery two. BL/Rover cheaped out when this chassis was originally designed in the 70s, they cut costs and threw a single cardan in but left the angles the same. Bad news for a lift. I tossed all new neapco joints and a centering ball in these and installed em. 2 weeks later it ate a rear diff seal. Fucker!  I ordered these things called discloation cones. They don't look like much until you actually need them.  I should add that these were terrifying to install. I don't scare easy, but when you have your fingers near sharp metal that can amputate at the fail of a jack. Enjoy the nightmare fuel.   thats a 33" tall tire for reference, also not full droop. Dropped a new sprocket in the FZR today. this I believe is the 9th one this bike has eaten in the 2.5 years I've owned it.   broken tooth, and WHAT THE gently caress with the chewed side. (turns out the sprocket was warped on my move to vegas, and I never noticed) Aluminum tends to not last. Esp these little bastards that are pricey as hell and hard to get. I was able to find a steel one from a dirtbike that would fit, although it changes my final drive from 3.08 to 2.89. I'll live with it.  Mostly back together.
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Jan 25, 2014 02:07
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Its never thrown a chain, Its under proper tension.  this was 2 years ago. I had to walk a mile to retrieve the chain. I was one pissed. off. motherfucker.90*F with all the humidity of the south. full leathers, 40lb of poo poo in a backback. Pissed. Chain loving broke. I had a full set of chain tools and links in my bag. fixed and back on the road.
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Jan 25, 2014 03:53
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Yay twinsies! (yours is the 4th now that I know of in rioja, one of 3 with SE7. I'm the only 5 speed.) machine em. have em throw in new seals. usually don't have to do a 3/5 angle grind on em. GMB makes high flow pumps for our trucks, couple that with a generic SBC high flow T stat you can get at the parts stores. I can get you P/Ns if you want. AB makes a hose kit, but it ain' cheap. yours should have AEL which means you get a special lower radiator hose. It drives like a boat, but I don't really care. I'm using RTE springs, 350 fronts, 220/280 lovely progressives on the rear. I can keep it in the lane and pointing the right way up to ludicrous speed. Keep an eye out on craigslist, theres all kinds of deals to be had, same with ebay. I snatch poo poo up all the time.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:36
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port the heads and toss a cam in it. that should get the 4.0 to around 200-220hp. T-stat: MRG4364 Drill 3 little pilot holes in it. water pump: 144-2001  stock is the top, GM is the bottom one. you can get em on the generic sbc parts pile at the auto parts store. I use a 180* one. E: I'm in hell land, I need all the cooling I can get with my engine. If your radiator is plugged, Oxyclean the fucker. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 02:49
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pull the radiator, mix a fairly strong batch of oxyclean/water, bring it to almost a boil, pour it in and let it sit overnight, It supposedly eats calcium deposits, I've not tried it yet. I do know CLR/white vinegar can be used in our copper/brass radiators with no ill effect. (do NOT do this if its been swapped with an aluminum)
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Jan 26, 2014 04:12
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Some RRCs have Ujoints as well. I'm running cometic MLS gaskets.  theyre....pricey, but god drat they've saved my rear end a dozen times or better. Thanks for the tip on the acid! I used dilluted acetic on the bikes rad a year ago, it was so clogged it didn't do much. Ditto on our copper rads. there was a point in time where I was buying every. single. one and fixing them to re-sell to local customers when theirs took a poo poo. d2 radiators? HAHAHAHA. gently caress any plastic tank'd radiators for what I do in the desert. god drat p38s plastic radiator left me with my pants around my ankles more times than not.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:13
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The core on this one is in decent shape for now. I'm thinking about converting it to use the MB G05 coolant instead of green. Mine will do that too when I'm comin' down the mountain with it below freezing out, otherwise the temps don't dip down. The one I pictured earlier is a new oem one that I've never used.
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Jan 26, 2014 20:33
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Even here in hell they do pretty good. I know a few people that run partially clogged ones and they cant be bothered to fix it, their trucks just keep going, even when its 125 outside. I have a 180 stat, most of the time temps hover 175-185 depending on how hard my foots in it. I've yet to go through a full summer with this one yet. the p38 was regularly around 195. it *would* spike to 210-215 on halloran pass @ non-legal speeds with the a/c on and the out door temp at 120. E:http://wikimapia.org/24673889/Baker-Grade I abuse-test everything on this stretch of road. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 01:30
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both sets of lifters and intakes are the same. iirc sbc/sbb lifters are drat close if not exact too. Crower sells new sets for under $100. E: Minor content post  Parts score! got this pile of poo poo super cheap from a guy one of my customers met. Safari gard tie rod guard ARB snorkel set some overpriced aluminum generic-ish steering guard.  First up, the steering guard. This was easy to install and gave me no issues. although now it works as a fantastic catch for my leaky rear end steering box, and it bounces oil filters nicely.   No template to install this evil wanker. took me 5ish hours. I made my own template. measured, cut, cut again, measured. rinse lather swear repeat.   one tight-rear end-enginebay. Dual battery means I had to move my power steering reservoir. air box had to move towards the engine. Just gently caress on top of gently caress. intake tube was a modified p38 one, P/S hoses are modified because I bolted it to the lower air box. I absofuckinglutely hate working on the engine now. Next in project row: Jerkin trannies 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jan 29, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2014 04:29
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   Some crosspostage from the offroad thread:  linked for huge: http://imgur.com/1YXuClg http://imgur.com/iyPYjzp
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Jan 31, 2014 09:18
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Earlier on, the PO told me that he replaced the clutch, well, when I pulled the engine, I found out he didn't. So I order a oem sachs one off ebay, it was supposed to arrive in roughly 4-5 days. Great! I'm down to 15% or so clutch left, so there will be plenty of time to get this done. wrong. loving prick took almost a month to get this thing to me, and USPS used the clutch set in a shot-put competition apparently. I was going to do transmission/transfercase seals at the same time, so I ordered a full set from ENGLAND, they arrived 3 weeks ahead of the clutch, that shipped from a few states over. step 1: strip the console  This gives you fantastic access to all of the plugs, and some of the harder to reach bell housing bolts.  200,000 miles of grime and leaks. That crossmember never goes back in either. gently caress that drat thing.    Progress!  Now its out. that is one filthy, dirty tranny. this was also great time to replace my transfercase shifter as the nylon bushings disintegrated. Only casualties was the VSS plug. it broke when I tried to remove it.  I split everything for cleaning, I also repalced the handbrake cable at this time as it broke several weeks prior.  the very, very tired disc. I wanted this done before it wore to the rivets, as it eats a $900 dollar flywheel.  this is the output shaft of the R380 manual transmission. this is the weak spot of the whole show. these are notorious for wearing away into nothing around 120K miles. for something with around 200k, not loving bad. this was a major reason why I pulled the trans instead of just dropping it a few inches.  new disc fitted, rear main, and all that jazz. I was able to sit up-right in the tunnel to install the parts. :feelsgoodman:  My clean(er) tranny. It fell off the jack once, and that was enough for me to get pissed and use alternative methods.  alternative method: successful.  Farted tihs thing to the original Y pipe flange so that I'm not dealing with a 2" half rotten exhaust with a knockoff flowmaster.
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Feb 5, 2014 01:21
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MY INTERIOR LIGHTING SUCKS. when these things were designed in the 80s, I think the last thing they wanted was for the occupants to see at night. I camp a lot, haul a lot of stuff, and I must be able to see whats going on. Zitrades makes these nifty little 1.5 watt backup lights. I thought what the hell, throw em in my roof, if anything I'll be able to see the inside of my truck on my next camping trip.  These were actually fairly easy to install. I had to be very careful as to where they're placed, as the rollover protection/sunroof mounts and hvac take up a lot of room.  another angle what I didn't anticipate, is how much drat light I had now.   Seems a little dark where the jumpseats are, I'll take care of that later.  Thats more like it. Now I can camp in this fucker and see. I also wanted a over-ride switch as the body computer shuts the lights off after 15 minutes.  I cut into the left rear housing and put in this gang plate. 1 switchole for dome light over ride, one for rear camping lights.  Temporary backlit contura switches.  and final mod for this update. these plastic air bleed plugs break regularly. the old RRCs use brass. You can cheat and use the diff-fill plug or a 3/4" terminator for iron gas pipe, but this is the most original of the bunch.
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Feb 9, 2014 05:13
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Thats one of my favorite movies bwahaha. More light!  This is the stock headlamp output on the FZR. Seems okay, but at night, Its terrible. 1980s lighting technology sucked rear end. I have this epic poo poo form of colorblindness called a blue tritanomaly. I don't see blues all that well. People that run around with blue/purple HIDs screw my eyes to the point I have to pull over and wait for them to pass. (nevermind the fact the loving cluster I bought has a indiglo backlight ugh)  They were re-aimed post this photo too. I went with yellow as my eyes respond the best with this color. at a later date I'll retrofit projectors, but the beam pattern is so drat bad, it really isn't brighter than what was there. and being like everything else cheap-lovely-ebay, one of the ballasts is flakey.   Me loving with the ballast so I can get home.
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Feb 10, 2014 04:27
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Hey! I watched Office Space finally.
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Feb 10, 2014 17:44
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I got to learn how much of a huge bitch it is to feed a new spool into a welder with a bad tensioner today.   After pocking chickenshit allover the FZR tail BF comes home and goes oh yeah, the tensioner is hosed up crossing the wire on the spool, its a wonder you were able to weld anything at loving all. Its hidden. it'll keep it from warping/flexing. Fucks given: 0.
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Feb 11, 2014 09:05
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I suck at carbs. This loving bike has not started on its own since the yzf600 engine swap 2 years ago, its always needed a shot of ether when cold. Until today. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ooBOWs_qvY holy mother of gently caress it sounds pissed off.
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Feb 13, 2014 01:24
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BUS PORN. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4WvGCt8rcw E: belt driven squirrel cage fan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rq7wndPZoU8    it was a fun drive. The electrical panel looks about as bad as the 54' that I owned. but I'm getting paid to fix this one.  Rover stuff:  New console. Old switches. Discovery IIs use a better seat switch, and tends to get less shitted up with grime. I didnt quite know at the time that the holes for the disco II console was bigger. There was also no wiring diagrams for the new switches. I figured it out any way and made a new plug for it.    Drivers done! Passenger doesnt loving matter to me. (DIIs have different options settings for passenger seats, a 8 way movement switch is hard to find, so I'm still waiting) lovely gaitors.  Seriously. these things had cigarette holes in em and generally looked terrible. I made new ones out of a thick latex.  its basically cut, clean, glue, wait, install.    
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Feb 14, 2014 |
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Feb 14, 2014 00:56
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Detroit 6v92TA silver. 6 cyl, v config, 92ci per cylinder, turbo, aftercooled. For a fatty hooked to a allison 740 automatic, it scoots. and you can hear the turbo whine from the drivers berth.
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Feb 14, 2014 05:59
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I added a rear facing camping/worklight to the truck.   All of the streetside panels had to come out (again, ugh) and I had to drill a few holes in the bodywork then fish the wiring through.   Its massively bright. But being that its a Chinese knockoff, 2/3 of the lights burnt out within 10 minutes. I swapped it with the other one, and the same thing happened. Oh well!  Even though mostly dead, it is still retarded bright.
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Feb 17, 2014 20:30
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 I bought these little amphenol plugs on ebay with caps.  I also bought a bunch of the cheap usb car chargers. I gutted both, then glued em together. Of all the modifications I've done on this truck. This one right here is my favorite.  L322 Range Rover cargo lamp with 12v outlet.  I also lumped in a hub service.  Disco 1s use full float axles. If I had steel wheels, I could pull it all apart with out even removing the tire/wheel.  Harbor freight bottle jack lifting the truck off its springs. I got these springs ~4 years ago on my first 5 speed d1. when I parted the truck they went on a couple different P38s. I had to flip them around as the P38 is front heavy. well when I put em back on the D1, I totally forgot that its rear end heavy, and hence it sagged a little (a lot) and drove me insane. I almost ordered new springs when I did some drunken math and found out I could swap them around and get the truck near level. This brings the project to current times more or less. In roughly 2 weeks I'm taking the truck to TDS/Truckhaven. I've a laundry list of poo poo that has to be done. Extended brake lines need installed, 2 Tie rod ends are a little loose, I've gotta install my tie rod guard, delete the dead steering damper, rewnew the front radius arm bushings, replace the rear pinion seal, order a spare tire, wire the 12v outlet and add the other usb charger. I'm also going to go to a Mercedes expansion tank for the radiator, the F250 one is pissing me off. I need to pilfer some battery hold downs too.
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Feb 20, 2014 20:18
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gently caress youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu. There was a guy in socal wanting to sell me a metal bottle for 150. I told him to get bent. Bottle worked great in a P38. there isnt enough hood clearance to get it high enough above the radiator, so it ends up puking out the extra, and running it low on coolant.
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Feb 20, 2014 21:00
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  Making a rover better one random manufacturer at a time. yank'd this bottle from a W202 C class MB. Standard rad cap @ 20psi, and it has a low coolant sensor. This sensor will get connected to an arduino board that'll flash/audible sound whenever it runs low on coolant, backup function will set a audible warning when temp crosses 215*F.  Some garage art I also picked up. E: gently caress YOU ATLANTIC SHITTISH. I ordered poo poo from you wednesday morning and paid shipping for it to be here today. Bushings won't be here till monday. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Feb 21, 2014 |
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Feb 21, 2014 19:32
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The bushings that were supposed to be here friday, arrived this morning.  black bushes are radius arm to frame bushings. these are usually thrashed by 100,000 miles, and a lift will kill em even faster. the orange bushes are voided polyurethane bushes. the stock has 3 steel rings that restrict axle travel, these will allow the radius arms to not act as a sway bar at the cost of onroad handling. the last part, is the early style rover pinion seal.  First arm out. these fuckers are heavy too at around 40-50lb. You can clearly see the old factory bushings.  View under the truck  I used the patented E30 subframe removal method on the old bushings. 1. Torch until flaming. 2. use a sawzall and cut the rest up. 3. punch out with a huge socket. The polybushes got a little bit of lube and pressed in with no fits. Quite possibly the easiest bushing job I've ever done.  New RA bushes vs old RA bushes. I was getting a minor clonk under braking, and its these guys every time. I did one side at a time and the axle still partially supported the truck, overall it went smooth.  Pinion seal! The old one is in my hand, this is for a later style diff flange. I replaced this one back in october, and it still weeped. there is a minor difference between the two. This should cure the weeping. you can also see my somewhat-tested E39 brakelines in the background that I installed saturday. Those with a quick eye noticed my steering damper missing. its more or less shot anyway. If there is no deathwobble post 50mph, means my swivel pins are in good shape. if there is deathwobble, I need to pull the pins and check preload/bearing condition. Most rover owners tack on a Peterbilt sized damper to stop the death wobble when infact theres other issues in their front end.
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Feb 25, 2014 02:27
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After rejetting the carbs so that the fucker would start I noticed it ran a bit funny on the highway. I figured the A/F screws needed a little touch. Yeah, one was missing. Not like bent or out of adjustment. It fell off the loving bike. I happen to have a shitload of carb parts so I threaded another one in. then took a vacuum reading. 20-20-28-40. holy jesus gently caress this things out of adjustment. I set the base A/F to 1.8 turns out, and resynced the carbs. it runs so much better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcKIeZLWHcI
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Feb 26, 2014 21:06
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Ultragauge arrived and stuffed above the mirror:   extinguisher mount installed. I'll probably toss a 5lber between the two front seats behind the console.   window regulator that broke in november. grabbed parts from the drawer repair isle of home depot. works great. I also bought a spare. but because these tires are quite a bit bigger, it wouldn't fit on the carrier. Impromptu welding project!  plate cut away  Plated and moved up 1" higher.  Where'd the door go?
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Feb 28, 2014 00:19
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woah. so jealous of your MPG. hey uhhhh question actually. does your MAF reading output retarded like mine? or is it somewhat correct?
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Feb 28, 2014 04:06
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The worst I've done so far was 12.6mph on road. and thats toes out of the grille. Usually its 14-16. With the p38, maf reading was around 3-4g/s at idle. this one shows .6 or whatever. however theres between 1.4-1.6v out on the maf. I think its retarded. :V Timing baseline seems a bit aggressive too, but being that I've done fun stuff to the engine, who knows. the ecu makes it run. the HP/Torque calculators are way too much A.D.D. fun. As for the smiles? SO WORTH IT. Oh. so. worth. it. I'm going to ocotillo wells (TDS) this weekend, expect lots of videos/photos.
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Feb 28, 2014 05:02
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I've had so many of those retainers break over the years from trail use. one good limb and your headlights dangling. ugh, gently caress doing anything in the cold. when you are ready for a cam, call crower and they'll modify their distributor'd rover v8 cam for a gems/bosch engine. They have lifters too
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Feb 28, 2014 17:30
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 11:51 |
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 Plumbed that guy in and in 20 minutes, found my random hard start issue. Randomly the truck will be a pita to start and run on any random number of cylinders. i've tested every possible cause ad nausem but was beginning to blame either the fuel pump or FPR. Turns out, its the FPR. Fucker will randomly stick and dump all the pressure in the rail.
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Feb 28, 2014 19:40
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