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Good to see an update  . Will you be storing the rest of the Mustang then?
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Jan 18, 2016 19:05
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Good to see an update That depends on who moves upstairs. I'm in a duplex and technically half the garage is for the other tenant, but the women who was living there until recently didn't have a car. If I can get another carless person, then yeah I'm going to keep the Mustang. I've had it for so long that it's sentimental, but it'll take like ten grand (at least) to get it back on the road and looking good. Assuming I can hold onto the whole garage, then I'll get an estimate from a body shop I like to see how much it would actually run me to get the body fixed and a fresh coat of paint. I can handle building another motor for it and would love to put in a T56, but I also have student loans to pay off soooooooo... If I do have to get rid of it, then I'll be parting it out heavily before the body is scrapped. The interior is the full tweed GT stuff in all black and looks amazing. The wheels are specific to the interceptor and I've got a few other things like the aluminum driveshaft and other parts that are still in great shape. The Koni's still have their warranty, I think, and it's got Eibach springs with mayble 10k miles on them. In other news, I got the rest of the chain stuff and am about to try to attach the hoist to the engine. 
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Jan 18, 2016 20:09
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Will you be painting the Volvo to match the Mustang? 
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Jan 18, 2016 22:41
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Left Ventricle posted:Will you be painting the Volvo to match the Mustang? Nope, I'm trying to keep the Volvo as stock as possible on the outside, down to factory wheels for that era if I can find ones that are wide enough. That and the very unsupportive front seats while create problems at the end I think. I don't want to change the seats, but I might have to since they're so flat and the fabric is worn down anyway. In other news, the engine/trans are out of the Mustang and apart.
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Jan 19, 2016 01:48
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Monday Night Update Today is the day the engine is pulled, or at least that's the plan.  Had to go get a fuel line disconnect tool and then they came apart immediately. Five plus year old fuel is a hell of a smell.  Definitely going to go with a new water pump, lower hose and the fitting are trashed.  Gonna miss you, longtubes, you're so easy to work with than equal length shorties.  U-Joint time. You can also barely see the damaged speedo gear. That explains why the gauge was acting weird.  And after a fair bit of hammering, we're loose.  U-Joints were in really good shape for being over ten years old.  Sweet custom subframe connectors. 
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Jan 19, 2016 02:11
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Part II Hooking everything up. Something isn't right and it's going to take me longer than it should to figure that out.  There we go, that's better. (crank handle for the leveler was on the wrong side, had to lower the motor back down to switch it around)  After much fighting with the shifter, we're out and ready to come apart.  Pretty sure the 5.0 Coyote motor doesn't fit in these, right?  Another angle.  Assembly on the ground for the first time.  Other than replacing the clutch when I blew it up at the track in 2000, haven't touched the transmission since I bought the car in '99.  'lil buddy. I forgot how light these were, feels like fifty pounds (I think they're like eighty, filled). Getting it off the bellhousing was soooo annoying, every time I pushed on the transmission and tilted the motor, coolant would fall out the front. Fortunately, the bolts all came loose with a breaker bar. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 02:14
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Part III Nope, gotta pull the clutch/flywheel first. More work still.  So I was going to buy some bolts for the engine stand, but Home Depot didn't stock 7/16 for whatever reason. Had to go to O'Reilly and spend three times as much on their fancy bolts. Unfortunately, they only had two in the length I needed, so back tomorrow to get some at the location by my job.  The updated parts pile.  That's it for today, once the impact is charged I'll try to get the flywheel off again. Might have to fire up the air compressor if it keeps being a pain. After the engine is on the stand, it's on to the Volvo. Gonna clean up the Mustang's parts and box up the stuff I'm not going to reuse to make space. Hopefully the Volvo's stuff comes out smoothly in once piece so it's easy to get rid of. Once that's done I'll probably look into getting the mounts fabricated so I can get that out of the way. Then it's onto the engine/trans rebuild. I might end up doing the T5 myself, I'll make that decision after I finish the motor. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 02:15
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Do you seriously have to pop the u-joints on that car to pull the transmission? I thought that yoke came out or something. U-joints are a bitch to install/replace on a bench, I can't imagine doing it under the car. Also not sure if you know, but I just noticed you have 242GT wheels on your wagon, those are rare and only came on the GT model as far as I know. Turbobricks is down right this second but I know there's a guy looking for a set, not sure what he's willing to pay but you might be able to finance a bit of the project with those if you aren't attached to them. If you want it to look more like a sleeper, I'd get some Volvo steelies and then have them widened just an inch or so. Edit: TB is back up, they're not quite as rare as I thought but still a couple hundred bucks. He said he'll pay $200-$350 depending on condition. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=317484 LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 02:46
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LloydDobler posted:Do you seriously have to pop the u-joints on that car to pull the transmission? I thought that yoke came out or something. U-joints are a bitch to install/replace on a bench, I can't imagine doing it under the car. My advisor on this project suggested I keep the yoke in the transmission. I've pulled u-joints while they were mounted before, it's just a pain. Get the right size impact socket and a small sledge and after a few minutes of hammering you're good to go. LloydDobler posted:Edit: TB is back up, they're not quite as rare as I thought but still a couple hundred bucks. He said he'll pay $200-$350 depending on condition. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=317484 I really wanted a set of Virgo wheels, but it looks like the only way I'll get the tire width I want is to go with steelies, or to be happy with 195/205. The options I'm considering are: 14x6  Keep the current wheels and put 205's on them (current tires are 195x70x14), but I'm not sure I'd go that wide. 15x6  Buy a set of Virgos and put 205's on them 15x7  Buy some 15x7 steelies and put 225's on them Not that many people outside of the Volvo crowd would notice, but they didn't start using the ubiquitous 80's wheels covers until the next iteration of the 240 and I'm *trying* to keep it looking stock.  Something like that would work, I could get a set of the OE Volvo hubcaps for them, but I doubt I'm going to find a set of 14x7 wheels that look like that. Hell, they look like 5" wheels, given how much that 185 tire bulges. I've got an almost perfect one in the wagon for the spare, I'll have to go look at what's on it. If the current wheels looked closer to new, I think I'd just keep them with the current size tires and see how it behaved, but if I'm going to spend this much time prettying it up I don't want to have worn down wheels. We've got a few local shops that restore wheel finishes, so I'll probably look into that while I'm working on the motor. Being able to keep the 14's would be cool and would be cheaper than buying some Virgos in good shape, but I really don't like wheels with this many holes. They're so irritating to keep clean that I'd rather go with the Virgos just so I don't nuts cleaning brake dust. edit, added more wheels. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 15:31
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I was gonna say "Arrested" but this is pretty awesome, OP!
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Jan 19, 2016 16:31
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Sir Tonk posted:I doubt I'm going to find a set of 14x7 wheels that look like that. I was suggesting you can have them made. Steel wheels are super easy to just slice around the perimeter and weld a band of steel in it to make it wider, wheel shops do it all the time. Or you have them cut the center out and put it in a wider drum. You can control the offset and dish, so at best you'll end up with wheels that look slightly deeper than stock, nobody but car guys will notice.
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Jan 19, 2016 23:21
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I think it can be probably be done to most wheels. I knew a guy that made his RPF1's an inch wider. But he was also an engineer and amazing fabricator.
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Jan 20, 2016 03:49
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LloydDobler posted:I was suggesting you can have them made. I hadn't even thought of that, what a good idea. I'll just widen a set of Virgos and sell off the GT ones I've got to someone that needs them. Thanks y'all.
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Jan 20, 2016 06:16
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Sir Tonk posted:
 Yup, it does.
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Jan 20, 2016 13:02
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It's not exactly a drop-in, and you'll need a modified ECU. That's gotta move like a raped ape once it gets traction though. ~400 hp out of the box, in a sub-3000 pound chassis.  A later model Fox body 5.0 put out about half of the hp and had a little over 100 ft/lbs less torque, in stock trim.
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Jan 20, 2016 14:57
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Propaganda Bob posted:
Now all I need is a raise. Although I live in Houston and am not looking to build a car without AC. Not sure how that could possibly work with that engine in there. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jan 20, 2016 |
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Jan 20, 2016 17:31
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Sir Tonk posted:
There are electric AC systems for this kind of thing.
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Jan 20, 2016 18:50
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Sir Tonk posted:
Once you've got the engine in there, hooking the AC back up is pretty simple. It's just a compressor relocation. Coyotes for everyone!
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Jan 20, 2016 21:40
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I think the trickier part would be getting the coyote to play well with power brakes. I know one of the problems with BBF swaps into Fox bodies is the valve cover interfering with the brake booster, and the mod motor family are several inches wider than a big block. Didn't later model SN95s have a hydro-boost set up? Sourcing one of those might be a viable work around.
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Jan 21, 2016 00:57
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Sir Tonk posted:I hadn't even thought of that, what a good idea. I'll just widen a set of Virgos and sell off the GT ones I've got to someone that needs them. Thanks y'all. Well, nobody will do it on aluminum wheels, I don't think. Maybe, do some googling.
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Jan 21, 2016 02:54
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LloydDobler posted:Well, nobody will do it on aluminum wheels, I don't think. Maybe, do some googling. Of course they're aluminum, oh well. I've got at least a year or so to figure it out. Propaganda Bob posted:I think the trickier part would be getting the coyote to play well with power brakes. I know one of the problems with BBF swaps into Fox bodies is the valve cover interfering with the brake booster, and the mod motor family are several inches wider than a big block. Didn't later model SN95s have a hydro-boost set up? Sourcing one of those might be a viable work around. They use a hydro-boost in that build that was linked. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jan 21, 2016 |
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Jan 21, 2016 02:59
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Propaganda Bob posted:I think the trickier part would be getting the coyote to play well with power brakes. I know one of the problems with BBF swaps into Fox bodies is the valve cover interfering with the brake booster, and the mod motor family are several inches wider than a big block. Didn't later model SN95s have a hydro-boost set up? Sourcing one of those might be a viable work around. Then you get the challenge of adding a power steering pump to the coyote- simple enough, but add the cost and complexity to the budget!
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Jan 21, 2016 03:56
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I am convinced the Fox Body Mustang is to Ford as the CRX is to Honda.
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Jan 21, 2016 04:11
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jhcain posted:Then you get the challenge of adding a power steering pump to the coyote- simple enough, but add the cost and complexity to the budget! There's several kits out that let you add a power steering pump, and a couple that also add an a/c compressor. It's a pretty tight fit, but it works. ratbert90 posted:I am convinced the Fox Body Mustang is to Ford as the CRX is to Honda. I think a better comparison would be an EG Civic. The CRX is pretty drat hard to find today, while EG's (and Fox bodies) are still somewhat plentiful. Hard to find stock, but they're out there.
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Jan 21, 2016 04:19
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some texas redneck posted:There's several kits out that let you add a power steering pump, and a couple that also add an a/c compressor. I was thinking engine swap wise. The CRX has had pretty much every single Honda motor thrown into it at some point or another. Same with the FB Mustang and Ford motors. Maybe not the CRX, but the EF platform. 
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Jan 21, 2016 05:17
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I was just checking eBay, people are asking £4k-£6k ($6k-$9k) for a 1989 CRX. What the gently caress? You can buy a 2008 BMW 320d for that.
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Jan 21, 2016 05:23
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The CRX, Fox Body Mustangs, and 240sx are all just really good platforms for building. Same probably goes for the EG Civic but I don't know much about them.
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Jan 21, 2016 06:14
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mariooncrack posted:The CRX, Fox Body Mustangs, and 240sx are all just really good platforms for building. Same probably goes for the EG Civic but I don't know much about them. Aren't those the ones that tear themselves apart at the seams and break the windshield when you apply power? Or is it the generation after? (paging doogle)
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Jan 21, 2016 06:17
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Raluek posted:Aren't those the ones that tear themselves apart at the seams and break the windshield when you apply power? Or is it the generation after? (paging doogle) The EF is closely related to the second generation CRX, so yeah, doogle learned that one the hard way. Though to be fair he was putting some insane power through it - remember even the top tier US market CRX only had ~108 hp stock (they could be had with up to 150 hp in other countries, but wasn't he putting something insane like 400+ hp through his?) e: more mustang talk please randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Jan 21, 2016 |
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Jan 21, 2016 11:44
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some texas redneck posted:The EF is closely related to the second generation CRX, so yeah, doogle learned that one the hard way. Though to be fair he was putting some insane power through it - remember even the top tier US market CRX only had ~108 hp stock (they could be had with up to 150 hp in other countries, but wasn't he putting something insane like 400+ hp through his?) I'm pretty sure that 400+ HP would be fine in a Fox body (as Denmah can attest) or a 240sx, so they're probably better platforms for your crazy project car dreams.
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Jan 21, 2016 21:34
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Flywheel time! Last step before the engine is affixed to the stand. The bolts came off pretty easy once I had the flywheel jammed in place so it would stop turning the crank.  And we're good.  That's all the major parts for the Mustang. All that's left is the wiring for the ECU and a few small things. Going to try to finish it off this weekend so I can get maybe get ready to pull the Volvo's engine/trans on Sunday. The weather has been pretty great lately, hopefully that continues.
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Jan 22, 2016 00:12
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Raluek posted:Aren't those the ones that tear themselves apart at the seams and break the windshield when you apply power? Or is it the generation after? (paging doogle) They also disintegrate in an accident, so there's that. I love the EF and EG's (I owned one) but you may as well be riding a drat motorcycle once you're over 60mph.
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Jan 22, 2016 03:47
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Raluek posted:I'm pretty sure that 400+ HP would be fine in a Fox body (as Denmah can attest) or a 240sx, so they're probably better platforms for your crazy project car dreams.
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Jan 22, 2016 04:37
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leica posted:They also disintegrate in an accident, so there's that. I love the EF and EG's (I owned one) but you may as well be riding a drat motorcycle once you're over 60mph. My EG held up pretty well when I got in a fight with an 18 wheeler at about 65 mph.  Granted, every wheel pointed a random direction and the exhaust was center exit after the hit, but I walked away with nothing more than a few cuts, bruises, and whiplash.An EF would have been a pancake though.
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Jan 22, 2016 06:39
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some texas redneck posted:My EG held up pretty well when I got in a fight with an 18 wheeler at about 65 mph. I've heard about converting an old Civic into a 3 series, but not a 2002.
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Jan 22, 2016 15:05
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Saturday! Got the exhaust off, it's still in reasonable shape and I'd rather give it to someone that needs it than let it get crushed.  So the ECU/ECC is fun when you've got the mass air conversion installed. It barely came out after like half an hour of fiddling with it. Of course the real challenge is getting the harness to pass through the firewall without dropping the dash and/or blower motor box.  Might as well try to get the rest of the wiring out of the way.  ECU harness waiting for the huge plugs to find their way through the firewall.  Most everything is out. Just got the two harnesses to pull, throttle cable, cruise control cable/assembly, and the transmission wiring. Might have to pull the fender to get to the cruise control stuff, I think it's in there.  That's it for today, gotta head to work in a bit. Hope to finish pulling the wiring and cables out from under the dash tomorrow, but I need to push it out of the garage to open the driver door all the way and get under the dash.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:27
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Sunday and Monday! Gotta pull the Mustang out so I can open the door all the way. Driveway is at just enough of an incline to need a second person pushing, or another car.  Last time I'll see it (mostly) together. I really liked the simplicity of the fox body cars and their interiors, it was a fun car to drive.  Wiring under here is going to be last, I want to wrap up the other side first.  ECU plug with mass air module.  Normally, that assembly will fit through there. I forgot to disconnect the mass air thing and wasted like an hour fiddling with it until I dropped it back down and separated them. Came out easy after that. Got the cruise control stuff out after the ECU harness and have the speedo/throttle cables left as well as the driver side harness. Probably will have to wait until this weekend for that, car is back in the garage.
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Jan 26, 2016 06:39
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Part II Wish I had thought to pressure wash this engine, it's covered in like thirty years of oil leak sludge.  AC was pulled a few months ago when I started this project, just had to finish removing the bracket pieces.  Alternator out, wasn't too bad.  If I had to use a word to describe Volvo's setup in this engine bay, I'd probably got with "over-engineered." There's like three times as many bolts/nuts holding the accessories on compared to your typical domestic of the era. Two of the bolts (the other is behind this one) are either some size between 14 and 15mm, or they just aren't meant to be loosened.  After a bit of hammering, I got a 14mm on there, but it didn't help much and just started to strip the bolt. Tried a few other things and both are still stuck to the bracket. This will probably be the final headache before pulling the motor and I might end up leaving it on there if I can get the motor out.  I had disconnected this stuff a few year ago when I was trying to change out the distributor, so that made getting the fuel system hardware out of the way a bit easier.  Upper intake and fuel thing out of the way.  That mouse I found in the intake left some leaves and stuff.  I think the only thing still attached to the engine is the heater hoses (and that one vacuum hose that I yanked after taking this picture). Going to try to pull the motor this weekend once i get the Mustang's last couple of things handled.  Got a chance to clean up under the Mustang, finally, but had to get it back in there until I fixed the Hornet (one of the windows came disconnected and ended up out of it's channel) since I needed it in the carport.  Getting the parts a little more organized. Starting to store parts that won't be reused to make room for all the Volvo stuff that's coming off with the engine. edit So the cruise control looks to be busted, anyone have suggestions for that? How long did Volvo use that unit? Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 26, 2016 |
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Jan 26, 2016 07:00
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Won't be able to get back in there until Saturday, so I'm working on the slow parts acquisition process. Found two refurbished turbo wheels, I'm probably going to go with four of them and throw some decent tires on when the project is wrapping up to see how it behaves. If they're too small, I'll look into some wide 15" steelies down the line. I really love the look of the turbo wheels, so hopefully they work out. I'm not going to be racing this car, so it should be ok. Speaking of looks, all the lenses are cracked in one way or another on the car so I'm going to be replacing them all over the next year or two. The rears will be oem replacements, I'm just waiting for cheap auctions to pop up, but the front turn signals have a few options.  US oem, Euro oem (I guess)  and FULL AMBER Examples:    I don't like the full amber ones and am partial to the split euro lenses, but I think the stock US ones are fine. What's the consensus around here? The reflective strips below the dual headlights are also cracked a fair amount, but they were standard across all regions so they'll just be getting basic replacements (which are a pain to find cheap). Another thing that's a headache? Finding the right chin spoiler for this car.
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Jan 27, 2016 16:10
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Splits or full amber personally, those US spec ones look like poo poo.
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Jan 27, 2016 16:24
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