|
Honestly it's bad for a Florida car, I soaked them with PB overnight and still needed the impact to get the nuts off, and the nuts are completely hosed now. I'm just worried about getting new nuts on the studs without cross threading them, but I guess as long as that poo poo is tight enough gently caress it.
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 01:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:44 |
|
|
Could you remove the studs and then put new bolts in?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 02:59
|
|
|
That's a good way of thinking. Also a wire wheel in a drill will be a great help.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 02:59
|
|
|
Yeah gonna wire wheel that poo poo tomorrow and go to home depot for a couple nylock nuts. If worst comes to worst I'll take the studs out and put in some new bolts, but hopefully I don't have to do that because i ain't got time for that poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 05:45
|
|
|
Are nylok nuts going to be okay on the cat? I've had the nylon melt out of nyloks before when they were put in a high temperature situation.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 05:49
|
|
|
I got an exhaust bolt kit on ebay for $4 shipped and they've held up just fine for a year now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 05:53
|
|
|
Napa also has little baggies of "exhaust repair kits" that are various spring bolts and other gubbins ready to go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 06:00
|
|
|
If they melt they melt, I'm gonna tighten the gently caress out of 'em anyway. Figured it would be worth the extra insurance if they do hold up but we'll see.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 06:04
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Napa also has little baggies of "exhaust repair kits" that are various spring bolts and other gubbins ready to go. Essentially what I got. Shipping was free and I was in no rush so I went the Ebay route.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 06:04
|
|
|
leica posted:If they melt they melt, I'm gonna tighten the gently caress out of 'em anyway. Figured it would be worth the extra insurance if they do hold up but we'll see. They most certainly will either melt or get soft enough from heat that they won't be nylocking anything. Is there any chance whatsoever of getting two nuts on either of the studs? That should lock things up way better, and in that case you want regular flat nuts and not the raised bit of a nyloc. Also something like JB Weld could work as high-temperature loctite, at least since I guess this is the last time those studs are ever expected to be tightened up into anything.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 07:30
|
|
|
I'd be hesitant to use JB just in case i had to take it back off if there was a leak or something. I suppose a flanged locking nut will work just fine, but it's just gonna depend on whatever home depot has in stock 
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 07:44
|
|
|
Just put gunk on the nut from the outside, you can get that off if needed. Have had a car where the exhaust was held together by a pair of hose clamps around both flanges inside the broken studs, and a liberal amount of exhaust repair monkey feces. Held together nicely. But since you have that fancy new exhaust I see why that might not be your first choice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 08:42
|
|
|
Can you get stover style lock nuts?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 13:34
|
|
|
Nyloks will burn right out. There are specific locking nuts for high temp, but why bother? It's an exhaust... Just torque the poo poo out of it and it'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 15:08
|
|
|
Run a die over those threads if you care, or wire wheel em if you don't. It'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 23:00
|
|
|
Welp, so much for that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 23:10
|
|
|
gently caress it, get a lug stud remover press tool from the $5 bin at the local parts store, put loctite on the threads, and crank it the gently caress down on there. All's fair in love and exhaust. e: if you'd run a die over that before trying to thread the new nut on it probably would have worked. Sucks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 23:16
|
|
|
I don't have a die kit, and I was hoping I could get it tight enough and get it on the road because the wifey is out of town and I wanted to go to the beach with my son, he's been waiting on me to try and fix this loving thing. Looks like we'll just have to take the miata with the shot brake booster, I didn't really want to drive it but we're gonna have to now. What sucks is now i'm gonna have to take the cat off and rip the heat shield off to get to the other side of the flange to get the stud out. I'm honestly thinking of just going around the corner and having the fucker welded.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 23:45
|
|
|
This is exhaust after all. You didn't expect it to actually go as planned, did you? People who work on exhaust for a living must have some serious high blood pressure.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2015 23:47
|
|
|
And now the Miata has a random misfire issue. gently caress these loving cars jesus christ.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2015 02:31
|
|
|
Im assuming a steel punch and BFH on that broken end to smash the stud out of the flange isnt an option? Then just whack a random bolt and nut through it with the nut on the cat side. Other option is drop the pipe, cut it off flush with a grinder, centre punch it and then just drill the stud out big enough to take a suitable bolt and nut.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2015 02:42
|
|
|
Gonna have to do option#2 because the heat shield goes all the way up to the outer edge of the flange, why I have no idea. Also the other end of the cat has studs as well so i'm assuming those will be hosed as well. I'm tempted to just have a test pipe made for it. So before the exhaust bullshit I went to work on the shifter bushings. As you can see the bushings are completely gone.  Bushings in, with a little Shinetsu grease for good measure.  Here's the trans side, no bushings at all here either. Also notice the link on the left which has no nut or bolt. What the gently caress. Gonna have to grind that out later and put in a bolt with new bushings as well.  For the time being the trans link gets new bushings.  Also decided to change the gear oil "really quick". Lol. Took me forever to find the loving speedo gear and take it out so I could fill the trans with fresh gear oil. I've never had to this before ever, what the gently caress.  So yeah that's how my day went, was planning to be driving it before the evening, but we all know how plans usually end up going Probably going to be getting the cat out tonight hoping that the other studs aren't gonna get hosed either. We'll see!
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2015 03:21
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo is that what used exhaust studs look like?? This is really amazing, I've only briefly seen the rusty post I just sawzalled off before it turns to dust and blows away.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2015 09:09
|
|
|
Thinking about giving this a shot, can a propane torch get it hot enough? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTRUXRv2HFs
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 06:55
|
|
|
It certainly could. I've successfully removed a few rusty otherwise stuck nuts/bolts/studs by heating poo poo up with a small propane torch.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 08:42
|
|
|
Propane works eventually but it can be a big pain in the rear end. The issue I've had is that it heats things up too slowly, so sometimes it seems like both the bolt and the metal around it have heated equally and I don't get the rapid expansion of the metal that is needed to break it free.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 08:49
|
|
|
Yeah this, as it doesn't apply heat quick enough, the whole area slowly soaks the heat up. So it takes forever, and is not as effective. I often had the same problem with mapp pro vs oxy acet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 12:01
|
|
|
Is Mapp better enough to be worth it? I have propane, but a mapp torch would cost me about 50 bucks and for that much I can have the drat thing welded together. I'm assuming the exhaust studs on my car are threaded in as well and won't be able to be pushed out with a stud remover. I could just take off the cat and take it to the muffler shop and have them take the studs out.....I'll have to call them tomorrow to figure out what the gently caress I'm gonna do. The way it's looking is it will probably be cheapest and less time consuming to just have them weld the loving thing together, because I'm pretty sure the studs on the downpipe side will get hosed as well taking the nuts off those, so then I'm paying for 4 studs to be removed, buying four bolts/nuts and another gasket. I really don't want to take the cat off, but if i'm gonna get the studs out it looks like I don't have a choice. [e] although now that i think about it, maybe propane will be enough for Florida levels of (non) rust and be able to expand it just enough to get the fuckers out. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Nov 15, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 16:58
|
|
|
Propane might be enough but mapp gas definitely will. It's enough to free Midwest levels of rust. And most exhaust studs are pressed in so when you heat it up and blow it out replacing it with a nut and bolt will be the better option. I know 50 bucks for mapp is close to exhaust shop fixing it but if this was rusty and stuck there's gonna a be other things. And then the mapp gas will come in handy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 17:22
|
|
|
MAPP is definitely what you want to use here. It will come in handy at another point in your career.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 17:35
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:MAPP is definitely what you want to use here. It will come in handy at another point in your career. Good point. I think tomorrow I'll give propane a shot first and see what happens. As for today, gently caress all that poo poo I'm goin' fishin' with my son 
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 17:44
|
|
|
Any time I have to use heat on something like that I heat it up and while its wicked hot spray your penetrating fluid of choice on it to cool it quickly and ideally suck some of it into the threads. Do this a few times and it will usually break free. I think the shock of the quick cooling helps along with the fluid maybe getting into the threads.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 17:47
|
|
|
leica posted:Good point. I think tomorrow I'll give propane a shot first and see what happens. The old MAPP mix goes to 5300F while the new MAP Pro is only 3600F, which is just 200 degrees hotter than propane. That's all I can find so there's no reason to switch from propane.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 18:58
|
|
|
RIP MAPP 2008
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 11:59
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:The old MAPP mix goes to 5300F while the new MAP Pro is only 3600F, which is just 200 degrees hotter than propane. That's all I can find so there's no reason to switch from propane. Yeah, I was reading this recently as well - MAPP Pro is basically glorified propane anymore, and I think it's honestly because MAPP was far more expensive to produce than propane. The added expense probably resulted in the people that need poo poo as hot as MAPP on a regular basis just going for oxyacetylene, which can do honest brazing, welding and cutting.  I need to call Airgas about CO2 for a kegerator, I should ask them what the price of oxy vs MAPP was. Might be enlightening.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 14:59
|
|
|
Yeah, that's why I said before I've had some problems heating with mapp pro and needed an oxy acet for localised quick heating up a joint or bearing. Old mapp was toxic, and also caused a few vehicle to blow up with leaking cylinders. People started to become as wary of it as acetylene; it was supposed to be a safer alternative to that. That said though, I got rid of my oxy acet because I hated paying rent on the cylinders, and got a mapp pro oxy set (oxygen comes in disposable bottle like mapp) With the oxygen, it gets as hot as an acetylene set up. 
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Nov 16, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 15:14
|
|
|
Called the muffler shop around the corner and they said they'd do it for 30 bucks, so it's there now lol. While I was under the car getting it ready I noticed the brand new bushings I put in the shifter are already hosed up.  You gotta be loving kidding me, I haven't even driven the car yet. Looks like I need spend the money and order brass bushings.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 20:50
|
|
|
Who made those lovely bushings?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
Got them from NAPA, yay. I'll probably order those bronze bushings you linked, were they confirmed to work for BG cars? I know in that link the guy got them for a Justy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 20:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:44 |
|
|
Those must be from the same supplier that aftermarket suspension companies use for their rubber suspension bushings... loving garbage. Since the car's kinda toast at the moment anyways I'd pull the shifter back apart and just measure for what you need. That way you know it's right.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 21:09
|
|