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leica posted:Got them from NAPA, yay. Sorry 
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Nov 16, 2015 21:11
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Did you over tighten them? Is the bolt a shoulder bolt? Because it's supposed to be.
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Nov 16, 2015 21:15
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He says he's "pretty sure" the dimensions are similar. But he also says that in the 323/Protege/Escort community that Corksport repackages the Oilube bushings and sells them as a kit: http://corksport.com/corksport-bronze-oil-shifter-bushings.html You could probably save a few bucks measuring and figuring it out but at $40 I would probably just grab the Corksport package and not worry about it. Just don't overtighten the shifter putting it back together because there's no play in a bronze bushing like you'd expect from a rubber or a poly one.
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Nov 16, 2015 21:16
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mafoose posted:Did you over tighten them? Is the bolt a shoulder bolt? Because it's supposed to be. Yeah they're shoulder bolts, you can only tighten them so much. Oh well, they were just a couple of bucks, I think I'll just order the corksport kit as well as the third link kit as well and be done with it, it will be a total of six bushings and one bolt for 75 bucks. A bit steep but if it makes the shifter feel perfect like everyone says it will i guess it's worth it. Got the car back from the shop, runs great and nice and quiet A+++ would do it again to save my sanity because I was getting pissed. Now I can hear a squeaking pulley that's annoying as hell, what the best way to shut it up?
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Nov 16, 2015 21:40
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CHeck this poo poo out http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5306487598.html  quote:Rare 1990 Mazda protege AWD hard to find car 142000 miles 5 speed single cam $1200 firm you can't find these cars so don't waist your time low balling If I wasn't prohibited from having a third car I'd have already bought it.
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Nov 17, 2015 00:02
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Clearly you should trade one of your existing cars for it.
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Nov 17, 2015 00:08
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Holy poo poo an AWD Protege. They do exist!
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Nov 17, 2015 01:25
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Yes they do, 1990-1991, their drivetrains are supposedly pretty weak.
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Nov 17, 2015 01:55
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CharlesM posted:Yes they do, 1990-1991, their drivetrains are supposedly pretty weak. From what I've gathered, the fix is a Celica alltrac transmission via an adapter.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:49
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Rhyno posted:CHeck this poo poo out drat another one. If I lived up north i'd be after one for sure, don't need AWD in FL though. I went ahead and ordered the bushing kit(s) from corksport, $85 shipped. Small price to pay for a properly functioning shifter I guess. Think I'm gonna make a trip to the junkyard tomorrow with a list of poo poo I need, pics will be taken of rare rust free cars you jerks will pine over 
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Nov 17, 2015 03:01
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mafoose posted:From what I've gathered, the fix is a Celica alltrac transmission via an adapter. Yep. Even the G-series AWD transmission from the GT-R won't hold up to a BP with much of a turbo on it. I don't know that I've seen more than one or two with the Toyota gearbox actually running.
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Nov 17, 2015 03:02
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Any Philly goons wanna check that Protege out? 
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Nov 17, 2015 03:24
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Went to the junkyard today, and although I was pleasantly surprised that the imports part of the lot had doubled, there was not one mazda BG in the entire yard. A few late model Escort BGs but that's about it. The amount of Camrys was astonishing, so I grabbed some mud flaps, and i also grabbed two sets of horns from some town cars because they are good and loud. Need one for the Camry and obviously one for the Protege if you remember the OP. My take from the JY.  And some random JY pics:  Doriftu into light pole apparently.   You don't see many of these anymore. Wait what's up with the roof...   This Audi was immaculate. Warranty must have run out 
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Nov 17, 2015 22:42
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Grab a set of horns from a Cadillac next time. Any 80s or early 90s model should do. They have anywhere from 2-5 (sometimes more I think?) horns. The ones I put on my Altima came off of a
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Nov 18, 2015 14:01
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Anyone near Rhode Island needs to get this ASAP http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5314174463.html 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 05:13
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Ok so I'm a dumbass. When the battery died I figured it was the battery's fault because the PO had a new alternator put in. I can tell because it looks brand new. But the new battery slowly died and now testing with the multimeter I'm showing a significant drop in voltage when I turn on the lights when the car is running. I noticed the belt was pretty loose so I tightened it as far as it could go which still didn't seem tight enough. Same voltage drop after tightening, and now when I turn the lights on the belt starts squealing....Never had that happen before. I'm trying to figure out wtf could be the problem. The alternator is new, could it be the belt being loose burned it out? Maybe the wrong belt is on it? Could the water pump pulley be holding it up? I'm kinda pissed now because I wasted 100 bucks on a new battery when i probably didn't need one. gently caress me. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 19:00
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What voltages are you seeing at idle and at 1500 RPM? Both with the headlights on and off. Could just be a crappy alternator.
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Nov 19, 2015 19:03
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Well another problem is my multimeter is the cheapest HF model so I'm not sure it's very accurate, after charging the battery it's showing 15.97 volts so I don't know if I hosed up charging it now or if the meter is hosed. Either way it's still showing a drop with the lights turned on. Idling it's showing 17.50 with a drop to under 16 with the lights on. I'm also noticing a slow drop overall as the car is running. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 19:18
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leica posted:Anyone near Rhode Island needs to get this ASAP That is really close to me but needs TLC could mean literally anything in new england
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Nov 19, 2015 19:23
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A slight drop is normal. But 15.97 volts  either your battery is massively overcharged or your meter is hosed. Fully charged is around 12.8V. Let it rest a bit and see if it drops some.
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Nov 19, 2015 19:24
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The battery was completely dead and I charged it for maybe two hours? I dunno how I could have possibly over charged it in that amount of time. Think I'm gonna take it to advance auto and have them hook it up to their poo poo and see what it says. I think I need a better multimeter. [e] hooked it back up to the charger and it's showing 12.5 volts so yeah the meter is hosed, time for a decent new one i guess. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 19:34
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Parts store alternators are usually pretty lovely. Also, I've never heard of a car's charging system getting to over 17 volts...
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Nov 19, 2015 19:40
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It's possible that the meter is correct and your voltage regulator is hosed up. If the regulator's entirely nonfunctional, you could be seeing 30+ volts when the engine's turning quickly. After an overcharge, the battery's voltage will quickly settle back down to a steady state that looks like a full charge, but the battery's internals are probably damaged and it won't actually hold up under load. Go and measure a couple of known voltages with your meter (a 9v battery, another car battery, the 110v wall socket) and see if it's working correctly? e: if you need a decent quality but inexpensive meter, the Extech EX320 and EX330 (autoranging) are well made and cost about $40-50. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 19:50
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CharlesM posted:Parts store alternators are usually pretty lovely. Also, I've never heard of a car's charging system getting to over 17 volts... Harbor Freight quality, bro. The free with coupon multimeters are garbage, go figure. So since the battery is fully charged to 16 volts (lol) and my multimeter is poo poo, I decided to try the test light method for parasitic drain. Clipped the ground to the negative calble and touched the light to the negative terminal and it lit up for a second then died. Haha wtf. Guess I need to run to home depot and get a good multi meter to get any loving accurate readings on this loving thing.
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Nov 19, 2015 19:50
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Sagebrush posted:It's possible that the meter is correct and your voltage regulator is hosed up. If the regulator's entirely nonfunctional, you could be seeing 30+ volts when the engine's turning quickly. Well the charger showed an even 12.5, but I went ahead and tested it on a 9v battery and it's showing almost 12 volts
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Nov 19, 2015 19:57
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Sell that battery to Duracell!
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Nov 19, 2015 20:01
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Just multiply your readings by .75
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Nov 19, 2015 20:05
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Put a new battery in the meter if you haven't already, even good meters will sometimes give ultra screwy readings when their battery is low and some won't warn you, either.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:32
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Home depot has these in stock, I suppose it will be good enough since I needed one like yesterday http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-MM200/202521267
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Nov 19, 2015 20:37
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leica posted:Clipped the ground to the negative calble and touched the light to the negative terminal and it lit up for a second then died. Haha wtf. Guess I need to run to home depot and get a good multi meter to get any loving accurate readings on this loving thing. That was probably the stereo and ECU powering up briefly. I have a store brand meter from Home Depot (Commercial Electric). Quite a bit cheaper than the Klein, and for car and basic home stuff it's more than enough.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:43
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Kastein was spot on, I swapped out the battery with a new 9v (12v lol) and it works perfect now! I'll never motherfuck HF again
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Nov 19, 2015 20:45
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Ok, with the meter working properly i'm getting 13.5 with a drop to 13 with the lights on, but the voltage seems to be dropping slowly overall as the car is running. About the same readings at 1500 rpm. But now the belt (or pulley maybe?) is squealing like a motherfucker the more I give it gas, I'm starting to wonder if the wrong belt is on it because I have it as tight as it will possibly go and it still seems a bit loose to me. Gonna drive it to work tonight and see how it goes.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:56
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Cool! Yeah, I learned that when I measured a few things, couldn't even get the same reading twice, then measured a 100 ohm resistor and it told me it was like a -4 megohm resistor ( ) Put a new battery in and all was right in the world again.Check your field winding voltage if you can, also check your battery terminals, ground leads, and sense input voltage on the alternator. e: you can't easily access the field winding voltage on that alternator unless you know where the test port is (I don't), and it's internally regulated. Check the voltage on the "W/G" color coded wire, it should be fairly close to battery voltage. If it is, your belt is loose, your battery wiring/ground leads are flaky, or your alternator is on the way out. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 20:56
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Terminals are brand new, and I cleaned the grounds when I had the engine bay apart. I did notice on the new red painted positive terminal that are a shitload of teeth marks on it indicating there's been a problem for awhile. I wonder if the PO swapped out the alternator thinking it would solve the problem and it didn't? Or maybe it's just a lovely alternator?
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Nov 19, 2015 21:02
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It's possible the po got the wrong sized belt or just tried the "whatever works for cheap" method if the store didn't have the right belt.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:13
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So if it's the wrong belt will the alternator test as bad when it's probably fine? If the alternator was going out, wouldn't it drain the battery faster than two weeks? It's been awhile since the new battery, and I noticed it getting slowly weaker when I was working last night, getting in and out of it to check on our other properties, it would start slower and slower until it dies this morning when I tried to start it. It charged right the gently caress up no problem though. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 21:31
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Pull the alternator and take it to two separate part shops for testing. When I was chasing my misfire, I replaced the original alternator on the Miata, I picked up a unit from O'Reilly and it nuked itself. I brought it to O'Reilly and they tested it and it was "good". Spent the next 4 weeks chasing phantom grounds. Told the dude at O'Reilly "it has to be the alternator" when it wasn't showing 14.4V at the hot post, and he threatened to revoke the lifetime warranty. Took it to Autozone: failed regulator and diode. Brought it to O'Reilly again and it failed on their tester and I got my new alternator.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:45
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leica posted:Terminals are brand new, and I cleaned the grounds when I had the engine bay apart. Got a pic of these terminals? Most "help I done hosed my battery terminals up and need something to slap on there" battery terminals are poo poo and don't connect to the wire worth a drat.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:49
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kastein posted:Got a pic of these terminals? Most "help I done hosed my battery terminals up and need something to slap on there" battery terminals are poo poo and don't connect to the wire worth a drat. welp
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Nov 19, 2015 21:55
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Phone posted:Pull the alternator and take it to two separate part shops for testing. When I was chasing my misfire, I replaced the original alternator on the Miata, I picked up a unit from O'Reilly and it nuked itself. I brought it to O'Reilly and they tested it and it was "good". Spent the next 4 weeks chasing phantom grounds. Was actually thinking of doing this today but ran out of time. There's a marine/auto, starter/alternator shop on the beach that's been there forever and run by competent guys that I trust. Maybe gonna do that tomorrow. Bucephalus posted:welp Yep, notice all the teeth marks on the positive terminal, those aren't all from me. Any suggestions on better terminals would be great. On the way to work the belt was SCREAMING and i could smell burning rubber. No way it's too tight, in fact I still thought it was too loose at the furthest setting......I remember on club protege reading that the water pump pulley can gently caress things up as well if it's giving out, maybe I just need to get a new belt for good measure and see how the WP pulley feels by hand.
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Nov 19, 2015 22:53
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