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CSB is right, though his budget numbers may be a bit off, I'm not sure. EightBit is also right. I hope you are expecting to take the entire time off of work because if you want this done by your deadline, it's going to involve not working on anything else, 12 hour days, and possibly not sleeping. For the suspension, look up a 4-link calculator spreadsheet. I would urge you to do a 3-link instead, honestly. Bear in mind a triangulated 3 link or 4 link will absolutely require hydro steering (add another 1-2k to your budget) and a non triangulated one using a track bar will not. This is all assuming you mean front suspension, if you are keeping the stock TTB front suspension you can leave it right the hell alone but TTB sucks. For rear suspension, go with a triangulated 4 link, again, you want to use a 4-link calculator spreadsheet to figure out all your angles and poo poo. Try to keep your roll steer minimal, the one you posted looks alright for that from that angle but I can't really tell. Roll steer is basically where the rearend will have a different thrust angle depending on which way the suspension is flexed, and is not something you want. You can do a cage for way less than 3000 if you are designing, bending, and welding it yourself. I wouldn't go under 1.75x0.120 DOM for a rock crawling cage. If you haven't done so already, price your cage DOM from Marmon Keystone, most of my friends have gotten the best price quote from them and they deliver. Speaking of which, what wall thickness is the tubing you got for the 4 link? What rearend is in your Ranger, the 28 spline 8.8 (kinda lovely) or the 7.5 (really lovely)? Hope you intend to replace the diff cover with a beefy aftermarket one too, those stock covers are like pie tins. Where are you getting driveshaft(s) made? Have you figured shipping time on all the parts you need to order into your build schedule? I know nothing about 4x4 converting a T5. The HF pipe
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Jun 17, 2016 22:52
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This is a joke right? Should have been 300 for a junkyard 5.0, 0 on the lightbar, 100 on a 4x4 mantrans for that engine/tcase (what oz said or an m5od or whatever was native to the ranger/f150), and $2k on airshocks. Spend your money where it matters, on bulletproofing suspension and axles, tires, and shocks. I'm very leery of any $100ea shock that is allegedly fit for coilover+4link style suspension. $100ea whitebody monotubes for leaf/coil+link suspension? Sure, I'd believe that. I'm also rather worried about 0.120 wall tubing for suspension arms. It would be fine for a shortarm setup but for a longarm, long travel setup, if you drop one on a ridge or something wrong it is going to go banana shaped fast. I have seen it happen too many times. Did you buy heims with weld in threaded bungs? What size heims and what's the OD of the bung where it has to slot into the tubing? As for the 7.5 you are wasting your time even welding link tabs to it when the explorer 8.8 is 130 from any yard and actually worth using. But hey it is your choice. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 19, 2016 04:24
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They look alright to me, but I don't know if they're valved right for your setup. I didn't realize you bought them for a steal off CL, those are pretty expensive shocks if you get them new.
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Jun 20, 2016 18:48
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Judging by the fact that nothing of import has happened in the first week of a 4-5 week build, I'm not crossing my fingers. That being said, it takes me years to get anything remotely resembling progress done on my projects. So I can't really throw stones on the timeline side of things, just act as the depressing voice of reality.
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Jun 23, 2016 22:18
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You really should read up more on the various OE suspension designs and drawbacks/advantages of each before you pull anything apart. There are big differences, all of this has serious implications on how your steering system is going to need to be designed, and you aren't using the right terms for a variety of suspension and steering linkages, which tells me you haven't done the research you should.
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Jun 30, 2016 01:40
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