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jammyozzy posted:I like Conti tubes well enough, they seem pretty reliable and the Presta ones have removable valve cores which are useful to steal for blocked tubeless valves. Contis valves aren't as long as q-tubes long valves and don't seem to be available longer.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2020 22:53 |
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 21:40 |
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Safety Dance posted:If I have 700x48 tires, am I asking for trouble using a 700x28-35 tube? Yes. I'm running 29x2 tubes. Rather go slightly oversized than undersized
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2020 02:55 |
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CopperHound posted:I personally like one size smaller better than one size bigger, but I would probably call 35 two sizes smaller than 48. On 48 particularly I had a lot of flat issues due to rub running 45mm tubes. Switched to 2.0 and they went away.
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2020 19:28 |
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bicievino posted:Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes Chukkers don't do tubeless. Also, I don't really want to tour tubeless nor have to mount tubeless while assembling the bike in my lovely motel room after a flight. (700x48s won't fit in my box inflated). My non-touring bike is going tubesless with cliffhangers. nm fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Aug 3, 2020 |
# ¿ Aug 3, 2020 06:46 |
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TobinHatesYou posted:Seems like it would be 50/50 depending on the goal of the tour. Everyone should tour on 48s if they have the clearance. All of that sounds much more of a pain in the rear end than tubes. You can run something like shikoros or put orange seal in your tubes for flat resistance, and it will be less of a pain in the rear end for touring IMHO.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2020 19:33 |
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CopperHound posted:I keep seeing people saying this, but I am yet to see any evidence of it being effective. Works for me. I'm running basically compass thin Soma Shikoros. I have absolutely had it work, pull out a goathead, hisses for a second and stops. It is absolutely not as effective as real tubeless, but it is better than nothing. For everything but touring (or infrequent use bikes), I'm on the tubeless train, but there still is a place for tubes particularly in touring. nm fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Aug 4, 2020 |
# ¿ Aug 4, 2020 05:28 |
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Are you talking about the bolts at the head of the seat or at the collar? It looks like the bolts in the head failed. I hope you have bought a 2 bolt post them. The second bit sounds like the post is slipping in the frames. Assuming the last seatpost was fine, I would guess there is a defect in the new seatpost, it is too narrow. This happens. It should be a free return. Have them stick the new one in calipers in multiple places (a seatpost can be narrow in just a few places). You should not have to overtighten the seat collar, it can damage things. Also don't ride with a slipping most it can damage the frame. Edit: try grease first, but if it slips, chuck it. Easy way to see if it slips, but a bit of electrial tape where the post meets the frame. If it bunches up, at all, you have a slipping post.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2020 17:15 |
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kimbo305 posted:Do you still have your old post? Loosen the seatpost collar bolt, so that you can slide in your old post easily. Also, I would suggest that the better way to check tightness is to try to twist rather than push down. I don't think you can really simulate the forces of sitting on a seat and riding it by pressing.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2020 20:45 |
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Get some nice cloth rim tape. Also, if you're running near the largest size tire the tube can support, go one size up if the rim tape doesn't solve it.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2020 05:15 |
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Levitate posted:Why do you need 36 spokes I'm coming to visit.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2020 06:16 |
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Mauser posted:Brand new gravelking plus got slashed open by some glass in the alley on my second ride 5 ft from my gate and just dumped all the sealant out. They sealed up fine after I ran some more sealant in there and stabilized at around 30 psi so I went for a ride. Get sealant on their car on accident.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2020 03:07 |
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Ciaphas posted:It took an hour and a lot of swearing but I got my (mechanical) disc brakes all dialed in the other day. It's nice to be able to stop on command again Almost never. Occasionally I have to adjust a bit for pad wear, which takes maybe 5 minutes? BB7s.
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# ¿ Aug 27, 2020 23:33 |
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I've never had an issue adjusting BB7s. I even have to remove them to fit them in the S&S box. They're fine unless you don't have a torx bit or a warped/bent rotor. Maybe this is just a decade of adjusting parallelogram shimano v-brakes, but they're easy. It isn't like they're loving cantis or something. I do find them a bit more annoying than some to actually mount new pads in, but that's it.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2020 23:17 |
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CopperHound posted:Does Sram care about the provenance of their levers? 'Cause I got all sorts of brakes that get unloaded at the bike coop. SRAM doesn't seem to ask questions about broken stuff.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2020 06:47 |
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Why would you rebuild when you can get a new one? Rebuilding is for Shimano or campy.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2020 18:41 |
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If it is square taper, octalink, or 24mm, there is no reason to buy anything better than a shimano sealed bearing BB, which should be like $30.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2020 02:48 |
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TobinHatesYou posted:Color coordination of a largely obscured component yo.
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2020 07:58 |
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 21:40 |
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Motherfucker. Phil's counting his money now, because if I can't get like 4-5 years out of a $30 BB, his expensive BB starts making more sense. There are still some out there online with sr. google. nm fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Sep 21, 2020 |
# ¿ Sep 21, 2020 18:15 |