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Arven
Sep 23, 2007
I have a bunch of their rangers that i am running as chaos cultists for my Alpha Legion. They're Skitarii in rags, doesn't take them much to look corrupted.

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Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Looks like well known historical sculptors 3dBreed are releasing a 28mm specific line of WWII figures. Looks much better than their old stuff scaled up. $40 for a full US & German army ain't bad.

http://kck.st/3us4Tud

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Springfield Fatts posted:

Looks like well known historical sculptors 3dBreed are releasing a 28mm specific line of WWII figures. Looks much better than their old stuff scaled up. $40 for a full US & German army ain't bad.

http://kck.st/3us4Tud

I really, really dislike their 15mm scale figures, but these look a lot better. Definitely worth a gamble for the 40 bucks, so I pledged. Will be neat to see how they compare to Bolt Action guys.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Their "Join or Die" line has much less heroic proportions.

The regular stuff isn't bad if you do X and Y at 85% or so, I've printed some of their Ancients in 28mm for SAGA and I'm happy with them.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Hitting a frustrating experience. Doing some 10mm prints and the rifle arms are coming out as flippers.



I think I'm supporting them enough, but more annoyingly it's only like a 50% fail rate. I'm printing multiple copies using the same supports/speeds/settings and half of them will print fine, half will be messed up. Tried bed levelling and getting the same results.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Springfield Fatts posted:

Hitting a frustrating experience. Doing some 10mm prints and the rifle arms are coming out as flippers.



I think I'm supporting them enough, but more annoyingly it's only like a 50% fail rate. I'm printing multiple copies using the same supports/speeds/settings and half of them will print fine, half will be messed up. Tried bed levelling and getting the same results.

My semi-competent opinion: you have a lot of unsupported weight / area on those arms, so they will move around like crazy until they connect up with the body. Add in some supports under the arms in the orange scribbles area, and that will stabilize it and should make it so they print correctly until they reach the body.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Can you have those supports rise as straight columns from the build platform rather than being attached to the actual unit base? I'm wondering if the expanding cone (I don't know a better term for it, but where the support "grows" from the base) is the failure point.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Kylaer posted:

Can you have those supports rise as straight columns from the build platform rather than being attached to the actual unit base? I'm wondering if the expanding cone (I don't know a better term for it, but where the support "grows" from the base) is the failure point.

I *think* I know what you're asking, so if my answer is applicable then great. If not ignore me. Once you place a support you can highlight that individual support, then click and drag the cone tips and re-position where they originate and terminate. If going from within the model itself to on to the build plate keep an eye on the platform it creates and the path of the support itself. The automated generation will search for this stuff and avoid it, but doing it manually you can wind up with the platform the support grows out of merge with the base or the support itself can clip through parts of the model.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Could you post a photo of what the failure looks like? I think that might be more informative.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Sure here's what I'm getting. Again it's like half that will fail.



This isn't the first time I've had this issue. Last year I had a real pain in the rear end getting the spearmen printed for my Persians. I will try supporting under the arm itself as opposed to the rifle butt on my next go.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Any recommendations for sci-fi terrain and mini creators? I get a ton of sales for little sci-fi greebles and terrain I have up, I'd love to get some actual buildings and stuff but that's not in my wheelhouse.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

queeb posted:

Any recommendations for sci-fi terrain and mini creators? I get a ton of sales for little sci-fi greebles and terrain I have up, I'd love to get some actual buildings and stuff but that's not in my wheelhouse.

I know these guys will license printers and they do a lot of sci-fi terrain. https://multiverse-store.com/

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Springfield Fatts posted:

Sure here's what I'm getting. Again it's like half that will fail.



This isn't the first time I've had this issue. Last year I had a real pain in the rear end getting the spearmen printed for my Persians. I will try supporting under the arm itself as opposed to the rifle butt on my next go.

Ok cool, it looks like they're printing (giving you the puddle flipper) and then the support is breaking loose and they just kinda pancake without a support to hold them in place.

Try rotating the whole assembly so that the rifle is nearly perpendicular to the plate. Just pitch everything forward fifteen to thirty degrees, add support to the base (instead of printing straight to the plate), and maybe do a slight lateral angle just to make that easier.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

moths posted:

Ok cool, it looks like they're printing (giving you the puddle flipper) and then the support is breaking loose and they just kinda pancake without a support to hold them in place.

Try rotating the whole assembly so that the rifle is nearly perpendicular to the plate. Just pitch everything forward fifteen to thirty degrees, add support to the base (instead of printing straight to the plate), and maybe do a slight lateral angle just to make that easier.

Hmm, that did... not go well.



Think I'm gonna go back to on plate, reinforcing the supports.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Oh poo poo, that is not at all what I expected.

Have you done calibration cubes? I wonder if some of your supports just aren't forming.

That seems consistent with the results you're getting; What you first built straight to the plate came out fine, but the support-dependant overhanging parts consistently pancaked. In effect, the models were supporting the models where they worked.

E: zooming in, I can see where some of your supports just formed stalagmites instead of supports - it's definitely either 1) your calibration settings or 2) how your supports touch the model. But most likely calibration.

Even if nothing's seemingly changed, stuff can get randomly weird and requires calibration.

moths fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Feb 21, 2024

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I'll run the cones for calibrating again tomorrow. This is a hard one because the files only came presupported so I'm having to work around them. It's been cold out, and even with a heater in the printer I might need to bump up the exposure time to compensate.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 30 days!

Springfield Fatts posted:

I'll run the cones for calibrating again tomorrow. This is a hard one because the files only came presupported so I'm having to work around them. It's been cold out, and even with a heater in the printer I might need to bump up the exposure time to compensate.

If the files only came presupported (which is weird because most makers usually provide both), your best options are either to leave them as they are and manually add supports to the desired area, or else fire up Blender and hope that the way the maker saved the files allows you to edit the files to where you can manually delete the supports, and then re-export the file as an STL. I've done that for presupported files where I liked the orientation of the model, but the supports were lacking (or the file was ridiculously oversupported). That said, I recognize that bit of advice might be outside a lot of people's comfort zone, as Blender is a law unto itself.

Kharnifex
Sep 11, 2001

The Banter is better in AusGBS

Springfield Fatts posted:

Hitting a frustrating experience. Doing some 10mm prints and the rifle arms are coming out as flippers.



I think I'm supporting them enough, but more annoyingly it's only like a 50% fail rate. I'm printing multiple copies using the same supports/speeds/settings and half of them will print fine, half will be messed up. Tried bed levelling and getting the same results.

Has anyone made Seapatrol stls?

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Is there some of your setting that would make filament printers print oversize? I’m aware of the additional exposure that can cause that in SLA printer….

Wangsucker 69
Feb 7, 2004

Shut up, you old bat.
My mono X is starting to show its age, I think it’s three or four years old at this point and I want to start looking at replacing/upgrading. Any major QOL improvements to these machines I should be aware of, something like a heated vat would be nice so I don’t have to mess with the vat band. Anything else mind blowing? Thanks

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Springfield Fatts posted:

I'll run the cones for calibrating again tomorrow. This is a hard one because the files only came presupported so I'm having to work around them. It's been cold out, and even with a heater in the printer I might need to bump up the exposure time to compensate.

I'm almost certain the issue is that you need more supports. Here's one of your arms isolated before it connects to the body. There's no way I'd expect that to print successfully.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Having looked at your picture of your build plate I'm pretty sure the issue is not your supports, it's a physical issue instead of a design issue. Maybe the resin is too cold and needs to be heated, maybe your release film is scuffed up and isn't releasing cleanly and needs to be replaced, maybe you need to slow down your retraction speed or increase your retraction distance, maybe the exposure time needs to be longer - there's a lot of potential specific causes and solutions and I'm not experienced enough to know which it is, but I do not think that adding more supports will fix your issue.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Resin is way more temperature sensitive than people usually assume, and I'm sure it differs from resin to resin and manufacturer to manufacturer but I've found even a change of ~3-4 degress (F) is enough that I start getting failures and need to goose settings, usually just upping my layer exposure time.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



The viscosity is very much affected by temp, and someone will inevitably claim it's not - because they're printing just fine in their Alaskan ice fishing hut on insane settings.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Yeah I get it and my in-shroud heater is set to 85f and my vat in the resin is at 77 according to my lovely laser thermometer. Cones are showing me failures though so more dialing in by bumping the exposure time.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Southern Heel posted:

Is there some of your setting that would make filament printers print oversize? I’m aware of the additional exposure that can cause that in SLA printer….

There's a flow setting that could do this, yes

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Wangsucker 69 posted:

My mono X is starting to show its age, I think it’s three or four years old at this point and I want to start looking at replacing/upgrading. Any major QOL improvements to these machines I should be aware of, something like a heated vat would be nice so I don’t have to mess with the vat band. Anything else mind blowing? Thanks

I am also considering this, though I was able to get my Mono X to keep on chugging a bit longer. I still don't know what to buy as a 2024 upgrade. M5S?

Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Feb 21, 2024

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Wangsucker 69 posted:

My mono X is starting to show its age, I think it’s three or four years old at this point and I want to start looking at replacing/upgrading. Any major QOL improvements to these machines I should be aware of, something like a heated vat would be nice so I don’t have to mess with the vat band. Anything else mind blowing? Thanks

One QOL feature I really enjoy with the M5S is the vat cleaning option that's always on screen after a job completes. It's so nice to be able to spot a failure and just hit the button so anything left in the vat just gets scooped up and out without necessarily having to drain it.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Anycubic M5S also has the auto-leveling build platform. It's the only 3D printer I've ever used so I don't know if leveling is normally a big chore or not but I hate fiddling with such things so it was a selling point for me. It would be nice if it had a built-in heater, right now I've got a heating band awkwardly rigged around the vat.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


BlackIronHeart posted:

One QOL feature I really enjoy with the M5S is the vat cleaning option that's always on screen after a job completes. It's so nice to be able to spot a failure and just hit the button so anything left in the vat just gets scooped up and out without necessarily having to drain it.

can you explain how this varies from a standard cleaning option? I like doing a rectangle to clean bits off the platform but i find it hard to remove the newly cured rectangle from the FEP without unbolting the vat, etc.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Feb 21, 2024

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Deviant posted:

can you explain how this varies from a standard cleaning option? I like doing a rectangle to clean bits off the platform but i find it hard to remove without unbolting the vat, etc.

Can you not stick a piece of support left over from a previous print in one of the corners and use it to lift the cleaning layer off? That's what I do, no unscrewing or anything just go slow a bit so I don't slosh any resin around when peeling.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
It's just that, yeah, I plonk an old raft with some support structure into the vat to pull it up. It's just nice to have a button on the screen straight away instead of keeping a sliced file for it on the memory stick or going through the exposure menu.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


bird food bathtub posted:

Can you not stick a piece of support left over from a previous print in one of the corners and use it to lift the cleaning layer off? That's what I do, no unscrewing or anything just go slow a bit so I don't slosh any resin around when peeling.

Probably, i just never seem to have any when I need it. You hold it onto the FEP while the cleaning cure is running?

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Deviant posted:

Probably, i just never seem to have any when I need it. You hold it onto the FEP while the cleaning cure is running?

Nah just drop it in. Let the base part that was on the build plate settle on to the FEP and the supports stick up out of the vat. Run the cycle, grab the supports, peel it all off in one go.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
Oh that's genius, I just kept carefully peeling it out :nyoron:

tacosupreme
Jun 24, 2006
ask me about men.

Deviant posted:

I am also considering this, though I was able to get my Mono X to keep on chugging a bit longer. I still don't know what to buy as a 2024 upgrade. M5S?

Also considering an investment and can't decide if the blue chip printers (phrozen mega 15" build plate/uniformation gktwo/hey gears thing) offer enough convenience to justify the price.
I'm probably overestimating the difficulty of the process but it's easy to fall into the trap of comparing it to the cost of phantom models I probably wouldn't buy anyways.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Sorry to bother you all - but what does this indicate I've got set wrong?



Adhesion is fine and generally haven't had this problem before, but maybe I bumped something.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
It's likely you didn't time hitting "Start" with the ascension of Venus into the 4th quadrant of the sky. FDM is some weird voodoo poo poo. (But it is still super cool just being able to touch the prints when they are done....)

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Might get more and more experienced eyes on FDM in the other thread, this one tends to be a bit more resin-printer heavy though there is a lot of overlap.

At a guess it looks like under-extrusion but I am not an FDM guru.

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Under extrusion was my first thought too.

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