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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Also what should I do with empty cans of stain and leftover mineral spirits from cleaning brushes? Just like car batteries, you throw them straight into the ocean.
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Jun 6, 2024 00:42
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:All right I stained and put two coats of minwax fast drying polyurethane on the bookcase I built. Do I really need to do more? It's kind of a pain in the rear end and it's a first project, not an heirloom. I'd consider 2 coats to be the minimum for basic durability. Past that, you're getting some extra durability, but you're also mostly just deepening the finish, which is an aesthetic choice. If you want to be done, you can be done. Mineral spirits have some utility and are worth keeping around, IMO. Especially if the alternative is disposing of them. Empty cans of stain should, I think, be disposable in the regular trash; anything toxic about them has already evaporated and joined their friends in the upper atmosphere.
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Jun 6, 2024 01:57
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Sockser posted:I grew up playing quoits Cornhole Quoitus
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Jun 6, 2024 05:27
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Ok I'm just going to do some thinking out loud here, comments or thoughts appreciated I want to build a workbench, anarchist workbench style. Except the top will be 4 layers of MDF laminated together to make a three inch top, with hardwood banded around the edge. I'm reasonably confident this will work, Rob Cosman does this for his student work benches, I've seen posts online where people do this and it seems to work for them. It would also be heavy, flat and cheap. But I'm not sure about how to approach the base. Schwartz recommends buying cheap lumber, planing and laminating it. Sounds good, I've got a DeWalt 735 planer and there's a lumber yard literally across the road from me. Except everyone says don't put knots through your thickness planer, and I could search all day but I'm not finding any SPF that's knot-free. Just how bad would it be to plane the knots? Is it a safety hazard (kickback) or is the issue that I'm going to nick the knives on my planer? The knives on the 735 are reversible, I'm toying with the idea of declaring one side for rough stuff like this, letting them get nicks or whatever, and swapping to the other side when planing nicer wood without knots where I want a clean finish. Is that a reasonable approach here? The other idea I had was to just assemble the base out of 6x6 posts. But all I can find nearby is treated wood. How bad would PT lumber be here? It's going to be in my garage, and it's just the base not the top. But I've also heard these posts warp a lot too so that could be an issue.
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Jun 6, 2024 16:18
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I've never worried about planing knots in my planer. Check to make sure they're not loose knots as they can get knocked out and possibly damage your cutterhead, but I've never had that happen. Worst is dulling your knives as end grain is much harder on them, your plan is good to flip the blades but depending on how hard the knots you may still need to flip the blades as they could get so dull that you will trip the breaker (used to happen to me on my DW735 when I had it). I had good luck by using 'upgraded' knives in my 735, they were 18% tungsten and lasted way longer than the dewalt branded ones.
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Jun 6, 2024 17:04
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Awesome, thanks. I think that'll be the plan then. Do you happen to have a brand name for those knives? Eventually I'll need to replace these, would be good to have that handy.
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Jun 6, 2024 17:09
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HappyHippo posted:But I'm not sure about how to approach the base. Schwartz recommends buying cheap lumber, planing and laminating it. Sounds good, I've got a DeWalt 735 planer and there's a lumber yard literally across the road from me. Except everyone says don't put knots through your thickness planer, and I could search all day but I'm not finding any SPF that's knot-free. Just how bad would it be to plane the knots? Is it a safety hazard (kickback) or is the issue that I'm going to nick the knives on my planer? Of course you can plane knots! There's nothing special about knots-they're just endgrain. Try to remove any loose knots before planing, but also just don't stand behind the infeed of your planer (you shouldn't anyway if you can avoid it, especially on a lunchbox planer). They may be a little harder on your knives, but a SPF knot probably isn't any harder than ordinary white oak face grain and knives are basically consumables. Your plan to have a 'rough' and 'finish' side of your knives is a good one, and it's a good idea to keep an old but still mostly okay set of knives around for that kind of thing. Any time I use reclaimed lumber that might have nails in it or even get a particularly dirty batch from the lumberyard, I put my trash knives in for the first pass or two. I wouldn't use a PT 6x6 unless you want to sit around and wait for it to dry for 6 months. Even then, the stuff they use for treating now is corrosive to most metals. Home depot near me usually has untreat douglas fir 4x4 that are generally decent quality and fairly dry. You could basically box around one of those with 2x stock and come out with a roughly 6x6. If I were doing a work bench with a sheet good top, I would try to find a way to make the top layer easily replaceable. Sheet goods just don't wear that well, and it's super nice to be able to spruce up your workbench for the prices of another sheet of plywood. Maybe add a 5th layer that caps the MDF/banding out of 3/4" ply? MDF sucks at holding screws and to me a big appeal of a sheet good workbench is being able to screw jigs etc. down wherever you want without worrying about trashing your fancy benchtop. Who needs dog holes when you've got screws?
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Jun 6, 2024 18:50
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Haha I'll admit that it seemed ridiculous that I wouldn't be able to plane construction softwood, thanks for confirming though. I only got a planer a few months ago and wanted to be sure. Yeah I always stand to the side of the planer when using it. As for the top, I'm going to wing it and see how it goes. I'm planning to add dog holes and holdfast holes. If it falls apart in a year or two I can make another, or maybe I'll be in the mood to make a top from actual wood at that point. But from what I've seen online, I think 3" of MDF is more resilient than people give it credit for. I've seen posts from people who've had their's last 10 years.
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Jun 6, 2024 19:25
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Recommend me a planer that is a step above the construction site lunchbox planer. Let's say an initial pricetag of $1k, but that's a bit flexible, and let's also say that I can build a stand for it if needed. I'd be interested in "as wide as possible" but don't care as much about extra height. #1 thing though is that I need to be able to tuck it away when I'm not using it. Space in my shop is at a premium. I can modify a workbench to have holddowns to hold it in place while in use, or make a stand that I can tuck under something when not in use, etc. but I don't want something so massive that I have to leave it out all the time. e. oh yeah and it needs to run on 110v. 20A circuit.
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Jun 6, 2024 19:33
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I made a flip-top cart for my planer and router table, and I recommend that approach. The cart makes moving them easy, which is especially helpful for the planer 'cuz planers are really heavy. It elevates the tool to a more comfortable working height, and adds some storage capacity.
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Jun 6, 2024 19:59
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Leperflesh posted:Recommend me a planer that is a step above the construction site lunchbox planer. Let's say an initial pricetag of $1k, but that's a bit flexible, and let's also say that I can build a stand for it if needed. I'd be interested in "as wide as possible" but don't care as much about extra height. The dewalt 735 + helical head upgrade is the goto until you need something wider.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I made a flip-top cart for my planer and router table, and I recommend that approach. The cart makes moving them easy, which is especially helpful for the planer 'cuz planers are really heavy. It elevates the tool to a more comfortable working height, and adds some storage capacity. got a pic? how tall is it
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Jun 6, 2024 20:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I made a flip-top cart for my planer and router table, and I recommend that approach. The cart makes moving them easy, which is especially helpful for the planer 'cuz planers are really heavy. It elevates the tool to a more comfortable working height, and adds some storage capacity. If I have a router table, which I am thinking about doing, I'll probably be building it into the side table of my table saw, to save space. But I'll take a look at flip top options. Maybe a flip top with the miter saw on one side and a planer on the other? I mostly hand-plane, but a planer is looking increasingly attractive for dealing with largish projects, but also that's a more expensive planer. bobua posted:The dewalt 735 + helical head upgrade is the goto until you need something wider. Yeah that's on my radar but it's only like $700, I'm wondering if a higher price point can take me further. Can I get to 16"? ORR, hmmmmm https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-12-combo-planer-jointer-with-helical-cutterhead/g0959 12" planer/jointer combo? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jun 6, 2024 |
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Jun 6, 2024 20:03
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PokeJoe posted:got a pic? how tall is it I packed all my tools up to move across the country, and don't have a workspace right now, so I apologize for the mess:  I'd guess that the top of the cart's surface is about 2.5' tall. The router table obviously adds to that when it's in use. The top rotates about a section of rigid metal conduit (fairly thick-walled metal pipe) that is supported on both ends. There's some bolts that secure the top to the sides, to keep it from rotating and to add stability; to flip, I have to undo the wing nuts on the bolts, swing the bolts out of the way, spin the top, then re-place the bolts and tighten the nuts down. I based the design on a YouTube video, but hell if I remember who did it or how long ago it was.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:10
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Leperflesh posted:
In that price range? don't think so. I'm not even sure if you can get one above 13in that runs on 110(or if youd want to). I generally check grizzly for the cheapest non-sketchy things like this, and grizzly's 15in is 3hp/230v... 1350 for straight knives and 2300 for helical.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:12
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looks cool thanks for the info
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Jun 6, 2024 20:15
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My mostly random scrap wood benches have tops made from two 3/4" plywood that seem to be doing alright  Bottom piece is screwed down onto base and the top piece is screw up from the bottom piece on the corners. It didn't want to move anyway, but then I banded the edges with wood as I was concerned with ply edges splintering and now it definitely won't move. In theory if I wanted to replace the top I could just undo the 4 screws and lift it out and swap it with another piece. I did hear conflicting things about how well dog holes would work in such a thin plywood top (1.5" total) but so far they seem to be working fine. I did have to add thickness along the edge where I attached a cheap carpenter's vise I got from HF (which has actually been awesome)
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Jun 6, 2024 20:17
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bobua posted:In that price range? don't think so. I'm not even sure if you can get one above 13in that runs on 110(or if youd want to). Yeah I think you're right. I'm not sure if I'll bother, at 13" I'm pretty comfy just hand planing stuff. Maybe a drum sander would be better for like, large end-grain cutting boards anyway.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:22
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It looks like the WA grizzly factory is an hour and a half north of me. If they do pickup then their prices become a lot more reasonable without two hundred dollars freight shipping on everything heavy.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:22
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FuzzySlippers posted:It looks like the WA grizzly factory is an hour and a half north of me. If they do pickup then their prices become a lot more reasonable without two hundred dollars freight shipping on everything heavy. The one in Bellingham has regular sales on equipment as well. Scratch and dent type stuff usually. You can pick up equipment from them at the showroom.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:28
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Just food for thought and I wish you well with whatever plan you go with - But I think of the awb as a build for making that thick laminated timber frame top. I love my awb but if I were doing a different top, I'd look at a different leg build, probably something replaceable like one of rex kreugers designs.
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Jun 6, 2024 20:46
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Leperflesh posted:Recommend me a planer that is a step above the construction site lunchbox planer. Let's say an initial pricetag of $1k, but that's a bit flexible, and let's also say that I can build a stand for it if needed. I'd be interested in "as wide as possible" but don't care as much about extra height. Leperflesh posted:Yeah I think you're right. I'm not sure if I'll bother, at 13" I'm pretty comfy just hand planing stuff. Maybe a drum sander would be better for like, large end-grain cutting boards anyway. Otherwise, your requirements are a little contradictory-'as big as possible' and 'portable/storable' don't really go together, so I'd figure out which of those is more important. As you've discovered, the step up is a big one both in price, capabilities, and size/weight from 12-13" to 15". It's the jump from portable, plastic and aluminum power tools with universal motors to stationary cast iron machines with AC induction motors. It's kinda a router table vs shaper jump. I'm not exactly clear on your use-case, but few companies make this kind of open ended drum sander and it may be a better fit if you make alot of end grain cutting boards. A lunchbox planer can handle them, but it's best to make a jig or sled or make them oversize to deal with the end of the board blowing out. I'm not sure I'd trust a Grizzly jointer/planer combo to be super reliable? That's the kind of complicated machine where repeatable precision means it either works or it doesn't-a jointer that's out of adjustment can be worse than no jointer at all. e: just actually clicked the link and it looks like the jointer tables don't move like on a bigger J/P so maybe it's fine? Obviously as a benchtop jointer is has pretty short tables so it's won't be great for straightening longer boards, but that may not be something you really need to do. e2: lol  RPM and FPM are fun numbers to mix up. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jun 7, 2024 |
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Jun 7, 2024 00:59
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Something to think about re: planer size is, how often are you going to be working with really wide boards? They're comparatively rare and expensive. A 13" planer is more than wide enough for the vast majority of projects. If you do find yourself needing to plane a larger piece, odds are decent it'll be a lot larger, because it's a slab...in which case, a merely somewhat larger planer doesn't help you.
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Jun 7, 2024 01:04
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HappyHippo posted:Awesome, thanks. I think that'll be the plan then. These are the exact knives, I'm sure there are other manufacturers that make something similar https://sharpco.ca/product/he1378116/
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Jun 7, 2024 03:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Add a third vertical 2x4 in the middle yeah. I'd add a 2x horizontally across the top, maybe one around the middle wherever the TV mount will go, and make the plywood extend all the way up the back. You can do it as two separate pieces and make the top area removable. Thick 3/4" plywood on the front would be good just to make it easier to mount the TV, but otherwise the plywood thickness doesn't really matter. What matters is that the 2x4 studs are well attached to the plywood on the front and back to basically make a torsion box. Torsion boxes are very stiff and that's what you want. If you're gonna attach the back of the upright section to a wall you probably don't even need to worry about the whole torsion box thing. I played around with it more this evening, sketched out a TV with mount, added another vertical 2x4, capped the riser with a 2x4, and added a bunch of 2x2s, two where the mount would attach    I still want to keep a channel for wiring back there, and I probbaly also want to scoot the TV up (and correspondingly make the riser a bit taller) so that top shelf is useful for more than just dust. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/97e32429de80b04fea5163c1/w/e0033d23daf7dc00e488f0a8/e/9addde7cd98f15c4906c3ace should be updated for anyone who wants to take a look. Blistex posted:[…]when you have the skills to make an entertainment center like that[…]
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Jun 7, 2024 03:40
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Meow Meow Meow posted:These are the exact knives, I'm sure there are other manufacturers that make something similar https://sharpco.ca/product/he1378116/ Thanks, I'm in Canada too so I was worried you'd point me at some American thing. That's a super reasonable price, even accounting that it's per knife.
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Jun 7, 2024 04:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Something to think about re: planer size is, how often are you going to be working with really wide boards? They're comparatively rare and expensive. A 13" planer is more than wide enough for the vast majority of projects. If you do find yourself needing to plane a larger piece, odds are decent it'll be a lot larger, because it's a slab...in which case, a merely somewhat larger planer doesn't help you. I think this is really the issue. I'm frustrated with a somewhat expensive walnut slab that is a remnant of a cut through crotch, and wishing I didn't have to hand plane it. Three times. It happens to be 14" wide, it was actually wider but I cut it down to a rectangle. I've also made a couple of cutting boards but not endgrain ones and I don't relish the experience of hand-planing one, although as the good Kaiser said, maybe a drum sander is a better option for that anyway. Probably what I really should do is find a local makerspace with big equipment I can pay to use the two times a year I'd want that capacity.
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Jun 7, 2024 05:14
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HappyHippo posted:... 3" of MDF is more resilient than people give it credit for. I've seen posts from people who've had their's last 10 years. I have a bench top like this. One sheet cut down to layer up 2'x4'. I've had it for about 8 years. It was fast to make. I had it on a construction lumber frame for a few years and now it is screwed to an HF rolling tool chest. Good idea about wrapping it in wood, I didnt and I wore down the front edge around year 5. I rotated it 180 to refresh it. I never finished it so any spills really soak and travel far. I set my chainsaw on it and have an 8" oil circle. I put a couple dog holes that I've drilled over the years and they hold up to frantic clamping. I screwed a vise to it and it's gotten loose a couple times so consider embedding a piece of wood to connect the vise. I can see the bottom two layers are separating where the vise is mounted so try to run the connection thru to the top layer. I hammer into the vise a lot. To laminate it i glued two pairs together and clamped with a field of screws, then removed the screws and clamped the two pairs together.
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Jun 7, 2024 06:10
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Leperflesh posted:Recommend me a planer that is a step above the construction site lunchbox planer. Let's say an initial pricetag of $1k, but that's a bit flexible, and let's also say that I can build a stand for it if needed. I'd be interested in "as wide as possible" but don't care as much about extra height. It's a magazine review, so grain of salt and all that, but Bob Van Dyke is a well known woodworking instructor and wrote a positive review for the Oliver 10044 in FWW. I've done zero research on it, but it's where I plan to start looking if I decide to get a planer.  
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Jun 7, 2024 13:12
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bred posted:I have a bench top like this. One sheet cut down to layer up 2'x4'. I've had it for about 8 years. It was fast to make. I had it on a construction lumber frame for a few years and now it is screwed to an HF rolling tool chest. Good idea about wrapping it in wood, I didnt and I wore down the front edge around year 5. I rotated it 180 to refresh it. That's good to know with the vise, I was considering embedding some real wood or plywood there but that settles it. I'm planning to finish with shellac to protect it from spills. Same plan with the screws. I'm going to put them where the holdfast holes will be, that way at the end I can remove the screws and use the holes as pilot holes for drilling those out.
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Jun 7, 2024 13:17
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Leperflesh posted:I think this is really the issue. I'm frustrated with a somewhat expensive walnut slab that is a remnant of a cut through crotch, and wishing I didn't have to hand plane it. Three times. It happens to be 14" wide, it was actually wider but I cut it down to a rectangle. I've also made a couple of cutting boards but not endgrain ones and I don't relish the experience of hand-planing one, although as the good Kaiser said, maybe a drum sander is a better option for that anyway. You pretty quickly learn to glue up subassemblies that will fit thru your planer and then belt sand/hand plane one or two joints once they are glued up and planed flat. Much easier to flatten out one glue joint than 6. I have a 24” planer and I still do this plenty on wide tabletops. If you do wind up with wider boards than your planer can handle, there’s no harm or shame in ripping them down until they fit and then glueing them back together afterwards. You can get a pretty invisible glue line if you’re careful. If you’re gonna do alot of endgrain stuff, a spiral head with carbide inserts would be a good upgrade but straight knives can do the job fine too. This might make your mind up, Home Depot has the DW 735 on sale for like $200 off: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds If you want to upgrade to a helical head you’ have $400 left in the budget for that, but I bet you’ll be largely happy with straight knives. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jun 7, 2024 |
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Jun 7, 2024 13:28
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Kaiser's advise is spot on regarding planer size. I went from 13 to 15 and now down to 12 and it hasn't been any trouble. I get can a pretty nice glue joint and flatten it very quickly with a card scraper when I have an assembly wider than 12". I have also ripped extra wide boards in half and glued them up with a near invisible glue joint for the rare occasion I have a board wider than 12". I finished the doors on my media centre the other day. I am a little bit disappointed in how dark the ziricote turned once a finish was on it, I'm hoping it will fade and lighten with time. It seems to be lighter already after a week, but maybe I am just getting used to it. 
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Jun 8, 2024 03:33
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ColdPie posted:It's a magazine review, so grain of salt and all that, but Bob Van Dyke is a well known woodworking instructor and wrote a positive review for the Oliver 10044 in FWW. I've done zero research on it, but it's where I plan to start looking if I decide to get a planer. There are like two dozen vendors for that same planer or a close sibling, in the same way that everybody and their dog sells a bandsaw that looks like a reskin of the next one. The DW735 with a helical head is going to be about as expensive and a better planer. For planers, bigger (as far as is possible) is better, and the deeper body and further-spaced feed rollers of the DW735 keeps stock more stable as it goes through the machine. also ^ drat, that looks amazing. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jun 8, 2024 |
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Jun 8, 2024 04:56
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tracecomplete posted:There are like two dozen vendors for that same planer or a close sibling, in the same way that everybody and their dog sells a bandsaw that looks like a reskin of the next one.
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Jun 8, 2024 15:18
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When all they have to do is send their colors/logos/etc. to the factory actually making the tools it doesn't cost them anything* to try and grab as many sales and market share as possible, because you must keep growing or you're a failed business. It makes perfect sense if you're suffering from MBA-brain. *Apart from pissing away your reputation on cheap white label tools.
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Jun 8, 2024 16:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah Oliver these days is just another label selling the same stuff from the same factories in Taiwan as Grizzly/Baileigh/Laguna/Harvey/Jet/Powermatic/Rikon etc. Oliver has mostly focused on heavier machinery for the smallish shop professional market so I'm surprised to see them going towards smaller, portable stuff. The wild thing to me is that DeWalt sells that same planer as the DW734, right next to their actually-unique DW735. It probably steals business from their own higher-priced tool, because they sell them side-by-side at Lowe's!
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Jun 8, 2024 16:33
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For some ungodly reason, DeWalt only sells their 733 lunchbox planer here, which as far as I can tell is the 734 but with resharpenable knives. The 735 though? Can't seem to find an EU vendor that carries it. (Which may be due to internet search being hot garbage, but pointing you to poo poo to buy ought to still work.)
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Jun 8, 2024 17:03
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Just Winging It posted:For some ungodly reason, DeWalt only sells their 733 lunchbox planer here, which as far as I can tell is the 734 but with resharpenable knives. The 735 though? Can't seem to find an EU vendor that carries it. (Which may be due to internet search being hot garbage, but pointing you to poo poo to buy ought to still work.) I might be speaking out of my arse on many levels, but I read the reason they don't sell it in the UK at least is it's only made in 120v.
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Jun 8, 2024 17:11
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A "quick" and dirty plane till Sizing/shaping that bracket on the bottom took much longer than I'd like to admit. I really wanted them to be secure, there's not much tilt to it. I used the opportunity to practise dovetails. Some came out alright  I did get some gaps though  Overall much better than last time. Also I hate working with pine.
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Jun 8, 2024 22:48
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ColdPie posted:It's a magazine review, so grain of salt and all that, but Bob Van Dyke is a well known woodworking instructor and wrote a positive review for the Oliver 10044 in FWW. Thank you, I'd never even heard of that brand so it was totally off my radar. Although it sounds like it's a clone. But I'll look into those fancy cutters. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If it has real wild crotch grain, it may not do all that well in a planer anyway. See if you can find a local cabinet shop or somethin that will run it thru their wide belt for you. It’s not gonna get it perfectly flat or straight, but it will do a decent job. Well that piece is done, but I'll keep it in mind as an option for future similar issues. HappyHippo posted:That's good to know with the vise, I was considering embedding some real wood or plywood there but that settles it. I'm planning to finish with shellac to protect it from spills.
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Jun 9, 2024 02:07
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