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Posting here because everyone's probably sick of my other thread.  When the cam gear is like this...  The crank pulley is like this. I don't know how to read the timing mark guide here but when the cam gear is in the position as depicted in the picture the notch on the crankshaft gear is touching the timing belt, which is way off according to this: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/B230FTimingBeltAlignment.htm When the cam gear is aligned with its mark I can't even see the crankshaft gear notch. I still have to take off the crank pulley and lower cover but am I onto something? SWEET JESUS PLEASE TELL ME I'VE FOUND THE CAUSE OF MY 6 MONTH LONG NO START PROBLEM
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May 13, 2010 00:02
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Yes, your timing is off.
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May 13, 2010 00:22
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TheJeffers posted:Yes, your timing is off. BITCH IS COMING OFF How is that even possible though? Skipping not one but half a dozen teeth?
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May 13, 2010 01:08
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Possible but not necessarily. I think it's far more likely that the harmonic balancer is broken which spun the timing mark on it. You can confirm that by pulling the spark plug and sticking a screwdriver in cylinder number one. Rotate the engine and find top dead center by just feeling the piston reach the top and go back down. If it does match the crank pulley location then yes your cam timing is hosed. To read that crank timing mark, you can see 20 and 10, imagine a 0 the same distance away to the right, about where the sharp corner of the marks are. Edit: Wait, you can see the 0 on the face of the timing cover, behind the belt. That can be caused by missing teeth on the belt that you aren't seeing because they're ripped off somewhere else. Should be easy to fix, just do a new timing belt kit. It could also be the cam gear, it's just clocked by a roll pin, it's held in place by the bolt torque. If the bolt comes loose, it could shear off the pin maybe. If it's just the harmonic balancer, then you gotta keep looking. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 05:58
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Can someone in Australia help me? I am considering a mid 90s Volvo 850 GLE/SE and im wondering a couple of things. Firstly, what are the general cost of repairs and upkeep here? Being imported are they incredibly expensive? Average? Are they considered reliable enough that even expensive repairs are doable every once in a while? I try and fix stuff myself as well. Also, the 5 cylinder in the GLEs, are they the sohc or dohc versions? Thanks!
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May 13, 2010 14:21
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If anyone needs some parts for a '92 Volvo 240 wagon, I'm pretty sure I know where to get them. What a waste of a majestic steed. 
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May 13, 2010 14:57
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Howdy Volvo Megathread! So, lets talk about my 96 850 and its overheating problem. My first attempt at repairing it was replacing my thermostat because its cheap. Then, by playing around with the cooling fan relay and my DMM I discovered that my relay wasn't working. A nice turbobricker at the Ohio meet shipped me a new relay which according to the DMM is functional, however this has not fixed the problem. The fan itself is functioning because I hooked up jumper cables to it and the motor is just fine. I'm assuming that it isn't my engine coolant temperature sensor because when I hook up my OBDII scanner to the car I get a readout of the ECT. So its not the fan, relay, thermostat, or the ECTS. What could it be?
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May 13, 2010 16:40
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I believe there are two coolant sensors, and the one that feeds the ECU (and outputs via OBD) is different than the one that runs the fan. And they are known to go bad. Also did you check all the fuses? If the relay was known bad it might have shorted and popped the fuse. You can also just check to see if the relay is getting power, it's either that or it's not getting signal. That'd be another test, put signal to the relay and see if the fan fires up. Seat Safety Switch posted:What a waste of a majestic steed. Waste? I'd chuck any 240 over a cliff for 30 large. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 18:07 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 18:04
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LloydDobler posted:Waste? I'd chuck any 240 over a cliff for 30 large. It's taking one for the team, now he can buy between 15 and 30 more 240s.  Sviatoslav posted:electrical woes If all the individual components work, try the wiring between them for continuity and voltage drop. There should also be a coolant temp sensor in the radiator. I think the temp sensor in the block reports to the instrument cluster, ECU, and OBD, but the one in the radiator reports to the electric fan. Engine temp. vs. coolant temp. You can verify if the sensor for the fans works by jumping the connections to it and seeing if the fan kicks on (or the relay closes).
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May 13, 2010 18:45
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I just hacked away at my overpressure protection / overboost protection switch and turned it inward two full turns. I don't have a 20psi hand pump to test it, but theoretically if I only have a 12b in my car right now, I shouldn't really have to worry about blowing up my engine if my turbo is only really capable of like 10psi anyway, right?
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May 13, 2010 20:38
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The power steering on my 850 is makin' a creaky noise and seems to be somewhat "centered", particularly when cold - if that makes any sense. I turn it slight left or right and it hits almost a "curb" that's easy to go past, but definitely noticeable. Any ideas? Kind of an idiot about power steering, my dad said it might need a new belt but that's dadchat. Checked the fluid and there was definitely more than enough?
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May 13, 2010 20:59
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Xovaan posted:I just hacked away at my overpressure protection / overboost protection switch and turned it inward two full turns. I don't have a 20psi hand pump to test it, but theoretically if I only have a 12b in my car right now, I shouldn't really have to worry about blowing up my engine if my turbo is only really capable of like 10psi anyway, right? Closer to 20. as halfway crooks posted:The power steering on my 850 is makin' a creaky noise and seems to be somewhat "centered", particularly when cold - if that makes any sense. I turn it slight left or right and it hits almost a "curb" that's easy to go past, but definitely noticeable. Any ideas? Kind of an idiot about power steering, my dad said it might need a new belt but that's dadchat. Checked the fluid and there was definitely more than enough? PS is belt driven, so it could be getting worked and the belt slips under stress. You could try spraying the belt with belt conditioner, it'll clean any oils off the belt as well as make it a bit grippier. Try turning it while revving up a bit, like at 3000, and see if it happens. Any chance you can get the front end lifted on jacks and turn it then? blankooie fucked around with this message at 23:50 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 23:41
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Xovaan posted:I just hacked away at my overpressure protection / overboost protection switch and turned it inward two full turns. I don't have a 20psi hand pump to test it, but theoretically if I only have a 12b in my car right now, I shouldn't really have to worry about blowing up my engine if my turbo is only really capable of like 10psi anyway, right? Well, are you running any sort of ECU modifications, knocksense, or a wideband controller? Those are pretty much required mods for turning up the boost- otherwise you risk detonation or worse. The turbo's peak efficieny range is something like 14.5 psi if I remember right (should be a TD05 housing), about any more than that and it's spinning in it's own hot air. I don't think you run much risk, but I like doing things the safe way (and paying out my rear end). I would say get a boost gauge (or a sticker to convert your stock one), a wideband (or a blinky narrowband if you are cheap as hell) and possibly knocksense. When messing with more boost, you really want to get a good idea of what is going on under the hood.
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May 14, 2010 00:41
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I have an aftermarket boost gauge and some lovely LED narrowband blinky gauge right now. After doing testing, I can hit 10psi @ 4500-5000 with no fuel cutout so things are looking good. I haven't witnessed a boost spike yet though. But honestly I don't care if the engine blows up because at this point the only thing I need to completely swap over my B230FT are the radiator hoses and fuel rail rubber lines.  Right now, the b21ft has an exhaust leak at the hot side of the turbine housing (connected to the exhaust manifold) and has a bad ticking from it eating the valve silencer. It's also running lean a lot for some reason. And it possibly needs a new control pressure regulator or thermal relay switch. To fix the simplest problem (exhaust leak) I could simply pull the engine and put in the new one and wire it up. So it's not really worth putting any money into it. I'm not driving it like an idiot, though. I should be all right while I wait. edit: when I tried to quote you, my entire post went blank. what the gently caress 
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May 14, 2010 03:17
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OK, new coolant tank/cap are on the 940. It doesn't leak any more, but I'm still getting boiling/bubbling after driving. I'm fed up with it, so I'm taking it into the shop next week. I also pulled off the timing cover this afternoon. I'm assuming that the timing belt tensioner is not supposed to look like this:  
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May 15, 2010 02:37
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Nah, that looks normal. The tensioner has a giant hole in it so it can float on that stud in the block, and the spring tightens it up to where it needs to be, and you just lock it down with the nut and huge washer. Sorry about the boiling, not sure what to check next. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:26 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 07:24
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I have a '94 850 Wagon that has been giving me a little grief lately. It started out as stalling after driving it < 100 feet or so (but would idle just fine if you didn't try driving it anywhere). After I started the engine again it would run fine. Yesterday, I started it, it revved to 2,500 or so RPM and on it's normal decline just stalled (similar to what it did before). This time, however, it wouldn't start again. The motor would crank, but never got ignition. Went out this morning and tried again and did the same thing, started right away, revved, then it's like where it normally catches to idle, it just dies. Any ideas? edit: pertinent information: Manual transmission, naturally aspirated engine, no CEL... Jumpered fuel relay, tested pressure at Schrader valve on the fuel rail, when in key mode 2 has virtually zero pressure, a little fuel dribbles out. Just checked IAC, 11.5 and 10.0 ohms, so that doesn't appear to be the issue... At this point, it seems like the fuel pump? I replaced the fuel filter < 100 miles ago. Is it just a single fuel pump in the tank? I'm not in urgent need of the car, but it would be useful to have it by the following weekend. JJamesB fucked around with this message at 00:46 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 16, 2010 17:51
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Opinion poll: 850, 100k miles or V70 170k miles, same price, fairly good condition, both with full history & no issues. What would you choose?
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May 16, 2010 20:21
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Cakefool posted:Opinion poll: Years would help. I'm not the guy that knows, but I know there are issues with certain date ranges of the V70, or at least things that need to be looked out for.
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May 16, 2010 20:24
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Cakefool posted:Opinion poll: 850. Better interior, much easier to work on, no weak AWD drivetrain to deal with (don't get an AWD V70). Unless you're really into the adjustable suspension feature the V70 offers, I'd go 850. Although honestly, if I was to buy a Volvo right now, I'd get a intercooled 760 turbo and spend the price differential on upgrades.
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May 16, 2010 21:33
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V70's a 98/99, 850's a 95. Both are 2.0l 20v manual wagons. edit: not an AWD, not important to me. Edit2: I'll take a 2nd look at the 850.
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May 16, 2010 21:44
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Cakefool posted:V70's a 98/99, 850's a 95. A V70 being a 98 or a 99 is a big difference. The 98 is much better than having a 99 for several reasons including the electronic throttle.
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May 16, 2010 21:47
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Oxphocker posted:A V70 being a 98 or a 99 is a big difference. It was registered 99 but I think it was a 98 build. So, did the 99 have the electronic throttle?
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May 16, 2010 21:55
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Cakefool posted:It was registered 99 but I think it was a 98 build. Yeah. Get an 850 (not the one I'm buying on Wednesday though  )
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May 16, 2010 23:03
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Cakefool posted:It was registered 99 but I think it was a 98 build. You can read the rest of the volvo thread and get lots more details but short story: 1998 S70/V70 - manual throttle, one of the best model years to buy for reliability and general fit/finish. 1999-2000 S70/V70 - electronic throttle guaranteed to wear out, other electrical changes as well, generally good to avoid. 2001-2003 V70 - BAD, trans problems and other high ticket repairs. 2004-2009 V70 - Should be fine.
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May 17, 2010 00:03
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Oxphocker posted:You can read the rest of the volvo thread and get lots more details but short story: Thanks, but I read the whole of the thread. The last one too, your summary doesn't appear as far as I see. Will look at 850 today, report back.
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May 17, 2010 06:20
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Cakefool posted:Thanks, but I read the whole of the thread. The last one too, your summary doesn't appear as far as I see. I think he meant the old thread, full of goodness.
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May 17, 2010 06:59
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Spotted this classic '72 Volvo 164 up for sale locally and thinking about picking it up if the price is right. He is asking $2k for it the way it is. "1972 Volvo 164, carbureted, 4 speed w/OD (originally 4 speed w/o OD), radio delete; rebuilt cylinder head and carbs; new battery, water pump, hoses, clutch, brakes, tires, shocks, exhaust, etc; newer, cleaned out fuel tank; runs and drives very good; no rust, but currently in primer - needs paint (light blue metallic with black interior); comes with ALL parts, including ALL trim and bright work and the original transmission."  I'd plan on painting it Pearlescent white to match my mom's XC90 V8 (real nice color!) These 164's somewhat reliable?
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May 17, 2010 11:06
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Neat. My mom used to drive one of those until somebody set it on fire. Oh and the driver's side door would open during sharp left turns. That car lasted for days though. How many miles?
Machine Gun fucked around with this message at 13:17 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 13:14
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Best Friend posted:Neat. My mom used to drive one of those until somebody set it on fire. Oh and the driver's side door would open during sharp left turns. That car lasted for days though. How many miles? 83k showing on the odo, not sure how many on the rebuild.
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May 17, 2010 15:47
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epix posted:These 164's somewhat reliable? $2k seems like a bit of a stretch to me, you can get real nice condition ones for $4k-$6k if you shop around, as far as I've seen. But yeah, they're pretty much just as reliable as the other Volvos of the era, which is to say they'll go a lot of miles without a lot of problems. There are a few parts unique to that model, mostly in the engine, front end, and front suspension, but they did make them for 6 or more years so spares should be somewhat available. Talk to Crispulus, he has one. And many 240 series parts fit on that body, like window glass, doors and trunk lid. I have always loved that taillight setup with the license plate area shaved like that. The bumper is real soft aluminum so you can punch it with a conduit punch, then you can buy an auto parts store license plate light to hang the plate under the bumper and be legal.
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May 17, 2010 17:49
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epix posted:Spotted this classic '72 Volvo 164 up for sale locally and thinking about picking it up if the price is right. He is asking $2k for it the way it is. I saw this for sale on some website in K-Zoo. I was tempted but I already have one. Mine is fuel injected but it has the lower compression motor and dull three speed. That transmission will be fun though, if it is anything like the m46. Press a button and you found 5th gear! I think the price is a little high. I'll post more but as is I think I'm going to be late for work.
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May 17, 2010 18:45
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Splizwarf posted:I think he meant the old thread, full of goodness. Yup, read that too. 850 was a wreck, the guy can take drat good photos. Both drivers side doors had been replaced, hood didn't line up, towbar->chassis bolt holes were oval with misc patches, there are too many good ones out there to even consider it. I have a habit of finding crap cars.
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May 17, 2010 19:32
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Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. Did it again a week later, but at a different RPM and freaked out the speedo at the same time. Speedo didn't start working again until I got off the highway. Also, no check engine light or anything when this happens. What happens seems to me like it's cutting the fuel supply and the car coasts for a couple of seconds before the throttle starts to respond again then it's fine (other than the speedo freaking out). Car behaves normally otherwise. Car is a 1991 940 Turbo with under 140k miles and engine is in close to perfect condition internally. Speedo has been acting up and cuts out on the highway every so often, but hasn't died completely so I'm waiting to replace the cluster.
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May 18, 2010 00:12
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Sir Tonk posted:Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. Did it again a week later, but at a different RPM and freaked out the speedo at the same time. Speedo didn't start working again until I got off the highway. Also, no check engine light or anything when this happens. I think the speedometer is unrelated to the problem you're having. It sounds like a problem related to overboosting (either a faulty overboost / overpressure solenoid) or your turbo is legitimately overboosting (which is unlikely unless you've tweaked it). But this is in my limited knowledge of cars and the fact that this was the exact problem I had (except with a 2 series turbo).
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May 18, 2010 01:31
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I would greatly appreciated any guidance on this '94 850 with stick shift: http://www.autotrader.ca/used_cars_Car_details/HAMILTON_Ontario_1994_VOLVO_850_1513410.html?srcID=19&frnID=2217145&prv=Ontario&r=40 240 km == 150 miles Body seems fine, other than the obvious damage, the rear gate doesn't lock. Haven't driven it, since my manual-fu is old, but is seems to shift fine. There's what seems to be a ticking sound from the engine, the oil dipstick has brown crud stuck on the bottom part, hole in the air intake hose fixed with tape. When the engine is running, there is a white steam coming out of the dipstick hole that smells of exhaust. How suitable is this for a DD/learn to wrench on car?
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May 18, 2010 02:33
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iv46vi posted:I would greatly appreciated any guidance on this '94 850 with stick shift:
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May 18, 2010 02:40
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deratomicdog posted:At the very least, you're going to need to clean/replace the pcv system. That's what the steam coming out of the dipstick is. forgot to mention: CO said he had replaced PCV recently along with a thermostat I'd prefer it to be PCV than rings and/or gaskets.
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May 18, 2010 02:52
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I'd be willing to bet he didn't replace the pcv correctly. If he has... then it might be a head gasket problem? If the dipstick is steaming then the moisture has to be coming from somewhere. Personally, I'd pass on that car, if the engine is ticking it could be a bad valve. though it could be a noisy fuel injector or an exhaust gasket.
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May 18, 2010 03:06
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Sir Tonk posted:Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. It would probably affect the tachometer, though.
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May 18, 2010 03:41
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