|
Xovaan posted:I think the speedometer is unrelated to the problem you're having. It sounds like a problem related to overboosting (either a faulty overboost / overpressure solenoid) or your turbo is legitimately overboosting (which is unlikely unless you've tweaked it). I'll mention that to the shop. This car is stock as hell, other than the suspension work I've done. The PO has the maintenance records book filled out at the same dealership for the first fourteen years of the car's life, then he gave it to his son (in his forties) and they let their maid drive it or something. The down-pipe is a bit soft and I'm looking to replace that, but other than that and what sounds like an exhaust leak, there isn't much obvious that could be causing it. Your idea is the first reasonable explanation so far. Seat Safety Switch posted:Have you checked your ignition system? I had a similar problem in my old j-body whose root was in an improperly gapped spark plug. I'll check it too, haven't replace the plugs since I got it. I've got a gap tool, so that's easy enough. And the other gauges all function fine. The tach reflects the drop when it cuts out and then jumps back up with the engine when it re-engages. I'll update ya'll with what we figure out at the shop.
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 04:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 22:20 |
|
|
Sir Tonk posted:I'll mention that to the shop. This car is stock as hell, other than the suspension work I've done. The PO has the maintenance records book filled out at the same dealership for the first fourteen years of the car's life, then he gave it to his son (in his forties) and they let their maid drive it or something. The down-pipe is a bit soft and I'm looking to replace that, but other than that and what sounds like an exhaust leak, there isn't much obvious that could be causing it. Your idea is the first reasonable explanation so far. I'd recommend replacing the downpipe with a flexible pipe section when you do. It's a bit more expensive but you'll save your exhaust manifold from cracking near the firewall (and potentially having to replace studs, which is a bitch from what I've experienced). I still wish I could figure out what the gently caress is the cause of my idling problem before I swap out the engine, though. I feel like a failure not being able to diagnose it.  Fuel injector cleaner helped a bit, but the problem still exists:tl;dr: First two or three minutes of driving, I have to heel-toe the car while it warms up in order to prevent it from puttering out. This happens mostly when the car is cold and linearly decreases in time depending on how long the car has been sitting (so completely cold is 3 minutes and semi-warm is like 30 seconds to a minute. Does this make sense?). I'm thinking it's the control pressure regulator at this point but the problem occurred after the shop put in a new alternator. So it could be something they forgot to hook up, or the alternator melted a wire on the harness (likely because the new alternator causes fuse 8 to blow a fuse every time I turn off the car now and before this never happened ever). The new alternator also caused #30's connection on my fuel relay to fry so I had to re-splice it to a semi-mutilated still-fried-but-not-really state. ugh cars 
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 05:24
|
|
|
You're fuel injected right? That's common enough with carbs, but kind of bizarre with FI. Both of my Volvos have had issues with just randomly cutting out at highway speed. Nothing consistent causing it, they'd just lose power for a moment and then it'd be back to normal. Volvos are weird I guess. I took the mass air out of the 940 Turbo and cleaned it off when I was replacing the filter and something I did stopped the random cutting out at cruising. Then this WOT problem popped up. but it might have always been there since I've never really tried to maintain WOT much with this car.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 06:21
|
|
|
I'm kicking myself because I missed out on a chance to get a running 1966 120 wagon for $300. It would've been a kickass resto project, but it was 600 miles away and I don't have a trailer. I definitely want one though, once I get moved into my new house and actually have a place to work on cars I'll be looking for one again.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 06:45
|
|
|
Sir Tonk posted:You're fuel injected right? That's common enough with carbs, but kind of bizarre with FI. Well, when a car is at WOT, o2 sensors shut off and MAF's/AMM's tell the car to dump extra fuel into the engine. At least from what I've read. A faulty MAF would make you run lean under boost in this case, I think. My '93 with a B230F had this exact problem of running lean from a faulty MAF. Having fuel cut out like that just seems like it would be the case of the overboost solenoid being faulty or something wonky with your wastegate. Have you checked your boost gauge while the fuel is cutting out? Have you ever gotten more boost than you're used to at WOT? My friend who is an ex-Volvo technician says that he had the wastegate problem in his car which resulted in fuel cutting out. He has a 9 series, for reference. The speedometer going out is weird, though. I've heard of it happening before from a faulty relay in the gauge cluster but I don't really have any info past that. And my car is k-jet so yeah it's mechanical fuel injection. God I just want this swap to happen. My work is short-staffed seven people so the entire staff is working full-time, most taking full-time loads at school as well. Working five/six days a week from 3 to midnight means little can be done in terms of car activity outside of driving said car to and from said job. 
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 07:46
|
|
|
Sir Tonk posted:Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. Did it again a week later, but at a different RPM and freaked out the speedo at the same time. Speedo didn't start working again until I got off the highway. Also, no check engine light or anything when this happens. Try a junkyard fuel pump relay, the ignition system is tied to the relay so if the relay cuts out the speedo and tach go dead. Does the tach drop like a rock or slowly wind down with the motor speed? Just a possible solution, although the last time it happened to me I did get a CEL. I suggest the junkyard relay because a new relay is like $50 so I'd hate to see you waste that money on a test.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 17:31
|
|
|
I had the exact problem on my 850, it's a combination of Fuel Injector and the ABS box needing to be redone. Doing that killed the tick in mine, just don't put basic fuel or ethanol in your car...which seemed to be the problem.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 19:17
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Well, when a car is at WOT, o2 sensors shut off and MAF's/AMM's tell the car to dump extra fuel into the engine. At least from what I've read. A faulty MAF would make you run lean under boost in this case, I think. My '93 with a B230F had this exact problem of running lean from a faulty MAF. Having fuel cut out like that just seems like it would be the case of the overboost solenoid being faulty or something wonky with your wastegate. Have you checked your boost gauge while the fuel is cutting out? Have you ever gotten more boost than you're used to at WOT? My friend who is an ex-Volvo technician says that he had the wastegate problem in his car which resulted in fuel cutting out. He has a 9 series, for reference. Ok then it's probably the MAF still acting up. At least they're easy to replace, just don't want to spend $300+ right now... And I'll test it out tomorrow on the way to the shop and watch the boost gauge. Never watched it before, was more concerned with the RPMs and if they guy behind me was going to run into me. LloydDobler posted:Try a junkyard fuel pump relay, the ignition system is tied to the relay so if the relay cuts out the speedo and tach go dead. Does the tach drop like a rock or slowly wind down with the motor speed? Just a possible solution, although the last time it happened to me I did get a CEL. I suggest the junkyard relay because a new relay is like $50 so I'd hate to see you waste that money on a test. Nah, tach reflects engine RPM the whole time. Never drops like the speedo does. The guy at the shop is going to take it out too and this shop has been working on Volvos exclusively for over twenty years. They've been pretty good at immediately identifying problems, but I was avoiding replacing the MAF like he suggested at the beginning of the year when it was doing the random cutting out. (not enough spare cash)
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 20:23
|
|
|
Not an Anthem posted:My friend is offering me her mid/late 80's 245DL for ~500$ Well she's been flip flopping because her dad uses it as a work or commute vehicle, finally got back to me and I'm checking it out this weekend. Will update with photos, info. Edit- its a 1989 245 DL 4 cyl and needs a strut on the drivers side. Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 02:01 on May 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 01:58
|
|
|
Sir Tonk posted:Ok then it's probably the MAF still acting up. At least they're easy to replace, just don't want to spend $300+ right now... Just get a MAF from a junkyard or turbobricks/swedespeed/volvospeed for $45. If it takes five to get it working, bam, you just saved $50!
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 03:05
|
|
|
Hey, I thought this link was pretty cool, it's got Porsches, Vipers, Vettes, Mustangs... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5G48jvO-LE Oh yeah, and a couple Volvos. Kicking their asses.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 04:21
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Just get a MAF from a junkyard or turbobricks/swedespeed/volvospeed for $45. If it takes five to get it working, bam, you just saved $50! Hey Splizwarf, you going to the yard any time soon? Our pick-n-pulls are terrible around here, never found any Volvos before the late 90's. I also need a passenger side wiper arm while you're there. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 06:00
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Hey, I thought this link was pretty cool, it's got Porsches, Vipers, Vettes, Mustangs... I wonder if the Volvos AWD gave them such radically different lines that it help set up their passing.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 06:43
|
|
|
My current ride was totaled, and I got $2500 in insurance money. It looks like most used 940s are in that general price range. Are there any specific years/issues that would compromise the feelings of gay abandon Volvos are famous for producing?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 07:03
|
|
|
Watermelon City posted:the feelings of gay abandon Volvos are famous for producing? Haha, I used to do that a lot delivering papers.  [I wrote something cautionary here but gently caress sober messages]Sir Tonk posted:Hey Splizwarf, you going to the yard any time soon? Our pick-n-pulls are terrible around here, never found any Volvos before the late 90's. I also need a passenger side wiper arm while you're there. Thanks. Might be a run this weekend if the weather's beautiful. I'll see about a MAF and a good wiper arm (do you need perfect or perfectly functional? Cause I got two with a little rust spotting you can have for free from replacing mine). You want just one MAF or a couple? I've honestly worried about my MAF in the '89 sometimes but never gotten one from the junkyard because I have no way to test it short of putting it on the car, and I've always figured that's one of the parts that's probably going to be hosed on junkyard cars too, like dashboards and that sedan center taillight I failed to get intact for you. If you want some MAFs I'll certainly hook you up, just tossing some "buyer beware" in there and waiting for a response. Money Walrus, speaking of the junkyard, I found a blue interior 740 sedan... at the end of the day. Gonna go get you some goodies though. TheJeffers: a black interior has actually been surprisingly hard to find this month. They're all beige  or red. Do you want the panel directly below the glovebox, or the one up underneath that covers the blower?netwerk23: workin' on it, same problem as for TheJeffers only sub "grey" for "beige or red". So much grey.  Re-reading your post I realized you might also be asking for the actual carpeting that covers the whole floor of the car and not just the individual floor mats I've been looking for, can you clarify?
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 09:37 on May 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 09:26
|
|
|
Sir Tonk, I actually have what I assume to be a good pair of LH 2.4 MAFs sitting right next to me. I can test them on my car and see if they're any good if you'd like, would be willing to sell one a)if it's good and b) if Splizwarf can't find one for you. Splizwarf posted:TheJeffers: a black interior has actually been surprisingly hard to find this month. They're all beige Thanks for the heads-up, I actually don't need this anymore as the previous owner included them with the car. If you can find a good passenger-side wiper arm (little or no rust), I do need that, though. 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 10:35
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:I wonder if the Volvos AWD gave them such radically different lines that it help set up their passing. I dunno, but it couldn't hurt. If you look at the related video from New Jersey, it rained during the race and their 1-2 finish was very obviously a direct result of the AWD. Hell, Pobst got a start penalty and was bumped clear back to #10 or some poo poo and still came back for a 2nd place finish in that race.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 15:49
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:You want just one MAF or a couple? Ahahahahahaa, what am I getting into.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 18:22
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:I've honestly worried about my MAF in the '89 sometimes but never gotten one from the junkyard because I have no way to test it short of putting it on the car, and I've always figured that's one of the parts that's probably going to be hosed on junkyard cars too, like dashboards and that sedan center taillight I failed to get intact for you. If you want some MAFs I'll certainly hook you up, just tossing some "buyer beware" in there and waiting for a response. If you take a multimeter with you, I think the cars' respective manuals have a range of voltage readings which can tell you whether or not the MAF is malfunctioning.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 20:35
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:If you take a multimeter with you, I think the cars' respective manuals have a range of voltage readings which can tell you whether or not the MAF is malfunctioning. I thought the car had to be running for this to work, and I'd need an oscilliscope meter.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 21:20
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:I thought the car had to be running for this to work, and I'd need an oscilliscope meter. I'm fairly certain you test the terminals inside the plug of the MAF but I'd have to double-check. I'm sure somebody knows better than I do. 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 22:30
|
|
|
Ok so we're going to replace the turbo hoses between the MAF and the turbo and then between the turbo and the intercooler. They're both very mushy and are probably collapsing it seems. I'll look at replacing the MAF if this doesn't solve the problem. Also got an exhaust leak on the third cylinder at the header. Header is rusted and bolts look to be as well, this should be fun. Gonna put it off until June I think, unless it keeps getting louder. Thanks for the help and I'll update once the hoses/pipes are replaced.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 02:19
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:
Awesome. If you want, you can have my old MAF- working fine, I just upgraded to a 3 inch 012 MAF so I have no use for it. I think I have two working MAFs - one from when my car was N/A and one from the smaller turbo.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 10:21
|
|
|
Just a random question: Maybe I just suck at manual, but anybody ever have bad shuddering with the clutch if the car's not warmed up? Especially in reverse? Parking lots are an utter loving nightmare (and parallel parking is even worse) because the car will shudder so bad in reverse that it sometimes stalls outright.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 21:27
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Just a random question: My 240 does this even though the idle is set correctly (~900rpm) I've just taken to given it extra gas and letting the clutch slip more until it's warmed up.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 21:47
|
|
|
I just changed the fuel and air filters in my 240 turbo, it went well enough... Getting those freakin' bolts off the fuel filter was a fun experience. I got everything back on, but the car just kept cranking when I tried to start it. Apparently I didn't tighten the bolts on the fuel filter enough and spewed gas all over the windshield and engine bay. Tightening these connections fixed the leak, but not the problem. I get out of the car and notice a wonderful puddle of oil spreading all over my driveway. Probably about a quart. What did I do..? Did I put the fuel filter on backwards leading to excessive crankcase pressure?!
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 23:27
|
|
|
Any other S60 owners get the letter about the fuel pump recall? Any insight on that? I know its a bad corrosion problem of some sort, but really I just want a new fuel pump.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 01:24
|
|
|
Does anyone happen to have a spare columbia wheel in the Raleigh area? I hit a pothole this morning and cracked a rim. I am having some trouble finding a replacement nearby.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 02:26
|
|
|
deratomicdog posted:Does anyone happen to have a spare columbia wheel in the Raleigh area? I hit a pothole this morning and cracked a rim. I am having some trouble finding a replacement nearby. e: maybe I can do my own research   Looks like it's from the 1998 to 2000 s70 only? There's a pair of s70s in the yard I'm hitting for Money Walrus, I'll see if they haven't been raped for rimzzz yet. It'll run I think $32 (and shipping, Raleigh's almost local but still a couple hours); it goes without saying that it's worth the money if it's pristine, but would you want one that's scuffed but functional? e2: holy poo poo, I like both of these, for opposite reasons: ("Volans" and a no-name, anybody know what that's called?)   I would paint the center sprocket of the second one so matte black oh god. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 06:17 on May 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 06:05
|
|
|
DONT DO IT posted:I just changed the fuel and air filters in my 240 turbo, it went well enough... Getting those freakin' bolts off the fuel filter was a fun experience. I got everything back on, but the car just kept cranking when I tried to start it. Apparently I didn't tighten the bolts on the fuel filter enough and spewed gas all over the windshield and engine bay. Tightening these connections fixed the leak, but not the problem. I get out of the car and notice a wonderful puddle of oil spreading all over my driveway. Probably about a quart. What did I do..? Did I put the fuel filter on backwards leading to excessive crankcase pressure?! The fuel filter should be installed so that the arrows on the label are pointing to the passenger side of the car, towards the engine (i.e., in the direction of fuel flow). Even if you had it on backwards, it wouldn't have any effect on the oil or the crankcase pressure, since air doesn't normally flow back through the injectors. I'd make sure that you have your oil filter and drain plug installed properly, and I'd also make sure that your oil cooler (if you have one) isn't leaking from around that area as well. As for the non-start issue, are you getting spark and fuel? e: Splizwarf/deratomicdog, the 850 version of those wheels are called the Columba. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 08:40 on May 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 07:58
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Just a random question: My automatic S60 shudders when using creep sometimes 
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 08:37
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:
They were also available on 850 turbos I believe. If you can find that wheel I could probably come pick it up, or overnight it. I'm going to check at lkq tomorrow, but I can't find anywhere else that might have one closer than winston salem.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 11:53
|
|
|
Cruise the swedespeed classifieds, they have a dedicated wheel section that a) lists a lot of the Volvo wheels and b) frequently has nice sets of wheels for sale. I think there's a set of Volans on there right now.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 17:10
|
|
|
This link http://www.volvocars.com/se/sales-services/sales/tyre/valj-ratt-falg/pages/default.aspx shows you what different wheels look like on loads of different models.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 19:02
|
|
|
I have a big brochure / poster I got at Boston Volvo Village that shows all the wheels they've offered from the 850 up. If there's interest, I'll see if I can scan a copy.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 19:13
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Might be a run this weekend if the weather's beautiful. I'll see about a MAF and a good wiper arm (do you need perfect or perfectly functional? Cause I got two with a little rust spotting you can have for free from replacing mine). You want just one MAF or a couple? Ok nix the MAF. If you happen to come across a tan driver's side visor (arm and base as well), tan 3rd brake light cover, or the scissor jack for a 940 let me know. I think those are the only parts I still need for this thing. Oh and the warning triangle as well, but I doubt you'll see one of those. Reminder, it's a '91 940 Turbo.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 19:14
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Cruise the swedespeed classifieds, they have a dedicated wheel section that a) lists a lot of the Volvo wheels and b) frequently has nice sets of wheels for sale. I think there's a set of Volans on there right now. edit: alright, looks like I've got a replacement lined up, thanks! deratomicdog fucked around with this message at 03:28 on May 22, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 22:32
|
|
|
I've got a 1998 V70 AWD and the cruise control doesn't work. The fuse looks fine, but when you press the button to turn it on nothing happens, no lights and of course the cruise controls don't work either. Besides a bad cruise control unit, what else could this be?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 23:13
|
|
|
deratomicdog posted:edit: alright, looks like I've got a replacement lined up, thanks! Sweet.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2010 04:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 22:20 |
|
|
talk show ghost posted:I've got a 1998 V70 AWD and the cruise control doesn't work. The fuse looks fine, but when you press the button to turn it on nothing happens, no lights and of course the cruise controls don't work either. Brake position switch. This is not the brake light switch under the dash, it's a switch in the brake booster in the engine bay. It could also be the park/neutral switch or if you're in europe and it's a manual, the clutch switch. Have a volvo shop read the codes, you should have a "brake switch out of range" code or something similar. It's the kind of code that won't throw a CEL it'll just make your cruise fail to work.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2010 05:21
|
|