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LloydDobler posted:I've always run Castrol GTX dino oil at 10w40 and it's never ever let me down. So I am hearing 30 and 40 weight. I'm sure either is fine but I'm curious what I should consider when choosing between either 30 or 40. The car is stock NA w/ 160k climate here ranges from -30F to 100F - usually 70-90 in the summer. The engine is the slightest bit ticky more so at start up.
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May 27, 2010 16:52
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I run GTX 10W-30 in my B230F, and in our NA '95 850. Seems to make for a pretty happy tractor motor, and the whiteblock's never complained, either.
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May 27, 2010 17:39
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My old Volvo guy swears by 5w30 for the older NA 230s (although this is for southern California temps). It's what I use in my '85, and it doesn't leak at all (which is a first in my experience of owning 240's) But like most have said, you can probably use kerosene and it'd be fine in this unstoppable beast...
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May 27, 2010 18:49
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I know 98's are seen as the sweet point for v/s70's. How do you guys feel about the 98 v70 AWD's?
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May 27, 2010 18:56
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pete0r posted:I know 98's are seen as the sweet point for v/s70's. How do you guys feel about the 98 v70 AWD's? my XC is fun but a pig on gas
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May 27, 2010 20:22
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DONT DO IT posted:I just changed the fuel and air filters in my 240 turbo, it went well enough... Getting those freakin' bolts off the fuel filter was a fun experience. I got everything back on, but the car just kept cranking when I tried to start it. Apparently I didn't tighten the bolts on the fuel filter enough and spewed gas all over the windshield and engine bay. Tightening these connections fixed the leak, but not the problem. I get out of the car and notice a wonderful puddle of oil spreading all over my driveway. Probably about a quart. What did I do..? Did I put the fuel filter on backwards leading to excessive crankcase pressure?! Alright, so the fuel filter was oriented correctly, and the oil dump was due to an oil line going into the turbo that I forgot I took off...  Fuel pump works, fuel filter is fine, but still won't start. I changed the air filter, distributor (and rotor), and fuel filter. Seems like it's just not getting a spark. How would I check this? *the car has been sitting, unable to start, for about a month.
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May 27, 2010 22:44
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pete0r posted:Sigh, I took my 95 855t in today because the AC was randomly shutting off. It sounds like it's a relay or something electrical, because when I can get the compressor on it stays on and works well. This happened on the 850 I have. When I bought it, the AC would randomly shut off, it got worse over time to the point of just clicking on and off. I gave the clutch power directly (I think the plug is on the top left of the engine bay?) and no go. When I engaged the clutch manually with a stick it worked fine. Turns out the clutches tend to wear out on the 850 compressors, so I bought a rebuilt one on ebay for 160 and had it installed for 300 or so. Better then a new evap core, though mine has a very slow leak too.
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May 27, 2010 23:18
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DONT DO IT posted:Alright, so the fuel filter was oriented correctly, and the oil dump was due to an oil line going into the turbo that I forgot I took off... Have you checked the inline fuel line pump back by the fuel tank? Mine had a situation once where it would crank, spray what seemed sufficient gas, and never catch, all other things checked seemed to be fine (was getting spark at the cylinder however) and I finally tracked it down to that rear inline fuel pump. Been 100% ever since replacing that... But if you're not getting spark you probably have some other/additional issues (like your wiring harness is degraded/the computer is shorting or otherwise flawed.)
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May 28, 2010 00:09
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NOTinuyasha posted:This happened on the 850 I have. When I bought it, the AC would randomly shut off, it got worse over time to the point of just clicking on and off. I gave the clutch power directly (I think the plug is on the top left of the engine bay?) and no go. When I engaged the clutch manually with a stick it worked fine. Turns out the clutches tend to wear out on the 850 compressors, so I bought a rebuilt one on ebay for 160 and had it installed for 300 or so. Better then a new evap core, though mine has a very slow leak too. Yeah, if I give the clutch power it works. My mechanic thinks it's something in the climate control. Either way, doesn't really matter, my turbo is apparently going.. there's a cloud of white smoke that follows me wherever I go now. I'm currently looking into some 2004+ V70's to replace it. 2004+ is where I want to look at, right? Will I get 200,000k + out of a new Volvo like I did with my 850? pete0r fucked around with this message at 01:18 on May 28, 2010 |
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May 28, 2010 01:10
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pete0r posted:I know 98's are seen as the sweet point for v/s70's. How do you guys feel about the 98 v70 AWD's? I had a 98 V70 AWD and it was by far the worst of the three Volvos I've owned. I had pretty much every common problem you hear about on it: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor went out on my way back from a concert Jersey once and left me stranded for 4 hours. A couple months later the air pump went. Then the universal joint on the drive shaft wore out, and since it's a crimped joint, you have to replace the whole drive shaft. Overall I spent about $2000 on maintenance in a little over a year and then just bought a 95 850 T5 instead, which was much more reliable and a lot more fun anyway.
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May 28, 2010 04:11
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guys i finally got volans (w original pzeros still at 80%) i got volans volans volans
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May 28, 2010 04:12
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as halfway crooks posted:guys i finally got volans (w original pzeros still at 80%) Dope! Speaking of rims.... anyone got an extra set of ... I want to say cetius... rims. Those rounded 6 spoke wheels on 850's. I'll be looking for a set of winter rims soon.
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May 28, 2010 04:19
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Overpriced Balloons posted:since it's a crimped joint, you have to replace the whole drive shaft. Somebody tell me about this. I am only familiar with the snap-ring-retained style. e: Sviatoslav posted:Dope! Looks like "Cetus", these? http://www.autopartsfair.com/volvo-wheels_rims/850-1997-oem_alloy_wheel_rims-aly70190u10.html ee: holy poo poo, what is going on here? http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1762187247.html  
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 09:53 on May 28, 2010 |
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May 28, 2010 09:33
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Totally stole that ad and posted it in the tbricks "for sale" section just now. I wonder what the response will be.
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May 28, 2010 10:30
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Ahahaha, the cigarette stuck in the tire. "drat, gotta put my smoke somewhere while I take a picture!"  edit: Cetus wheels, don't pay more than $150 for a nice set on Craigslist.
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May 28, 2010 15:44
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as halfway crooks posted:Ahahaha, the cigarette stuck in the tire. "drat, gotta put my smoke somewhere while I take a picture!" He's showing the tread.
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May 28, 2010 18:01
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ssh posted:He's showing the tread. Isn't the traditional way of showing tread on a tire done with a penny... if the tread is over Abe's head then the tires are kosher, or something like that.
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May 29, 2010 00:02
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new car question answered below
mikerock fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jun 2, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 02:31
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Does anyone know what would cause a flashing overdrive indicator light on a 95 volvo 850? It just suddenly started after I changed the air filter, which is a little strange. Maybe I jiggled the wrong wire? edit: and now the car won't start, great deratomicdog fucked around with this message at 13:42 on May 29, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 03:49
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deratomicdog posted:Does anyone know what would cause a flashing overdrive indicator light on a 95 volvo 850? It just suddenly started after I changed the air filter, which is a little strange. Maybe I jiggled the wrong wire? Means you got a code set that isn't CEL-worthy; it's still OBD1, right? Time to crack open the blinkenboxen.
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May 29, 2010 18:33
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Nope, it's obd2 I'd take it to autozone but the frickin' thing still won't start
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May 29, 2010 18:56
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deratomicdog posted:Nope, it's obd2 $65 on ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBD-...omotiveQ5fTools I have one and use it all the time when I have car issues...I look at it as an investment.
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May 29, 2010 20:16
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deratomicdog posted:Nope, it's obd2 Bump the park/neutral switch? It's right on top of the tranny below the airbox. Sounds unlikely but usually the flashing up arrow is either an ABS or tranny problem.
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May 30, 2010 05:22
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I may have bumped that switch, but I really don't know. It seems to be able to tell what gear it's in. The car is cranking but not starting. It appears to be getting fuel, it appears to be getting spark, I don't think the timing belt is off or anything. I'm pretty much at a loss here. Edit: I ended up buying a code scanner: It's reading for that switch and the throttle position sensor. I bought the switch and will replace it tomorrow, if that doesn't work I'll replace the tps. Wish me luck! deratomicdog fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jun 1, 2010 |
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May 31, 2010 16:47
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I have a 1995 940 Turbo Wagon. The timing belt went out, but a new belt did nothing. Neither did a new head. Turns out the crank bolt had loosened up and let the timing belt gear shear its keys. Now everything is assembled, but im getting only select dummy lights at KPII.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Any idea on what component is bad that could cause that, excluding alternator and the cluster itself. I know both work. New headgasket, head, RPM sensor, and powerstage. Radio supression relay is confirmed to be working as well. Alternator was pulled from a car that was running, and its like new condition. It cranks, builds compression, spark, but those lights are out on the dash--and it does not fire. Tach does not move when cranked, but the above parts effecting that are in working condition. Blah stone soup fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Jun 1, 2010 |
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Jun 1, 2010 18:34
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I replaced the idle air controller in my 240 today, and it idles better than it did with the old one installed, but it still doesn't settle down into a particularly smooth idle-it surges a little and shudders every 10 seconds or so as if it's about to die, but it never stalls out. I've gone through and checked some of the vacuum lines, which aren't in the best of shape, but is there anything else I should look into to see if I can improve the idle? Might my injectors be dirty?
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Jun 1, 2010 20:45
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82Daion posted:I've gone through and checked some of the vacuum lines, which aren't in the best of shape, but is there anything else I should look into to see if I can improve the idle? Might my injectors be dirty? Check your throttle plate to see if its coated in junk.
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Jun 1, 2010 21:44
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I traded my 98 V70XC yesterday for 1997 850. It's a wagon.  There's two dents I need to get repaired on the back right hand corner:  What's that say under the 850?  YESSSSSSSSSS  First thing I do is get rid of the weather trim on the windows. Then I am going to fix those dents. I also want to replace those wheels as they're old man as hell (the car smells a bit like an old man.) May need a bit of repainting in some areas but there is no rust anywhere and the interior is in great shape. The 5 speed is smooth as gently caress comepared to my old 240s . The clutch is a bit stiff but I like it. 160 000 kms, 1000 less than my V70! Overall I am really happy as it has all the features I was looking for when I was car shopping last time. Pretty rare car up here.
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Jun 2, 2010 04:15
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So sometimes when I turn my key for my car before I start, I'll hear a whirring and a ping and my car will start immediately instead of cranking several times. What could be causing this? Am I hearing that some sort of injector isn't working and may be possibly shorting somewhere?
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Jun 2, 2010 09:48
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mikerock posted:I traded my 98 V70XC yesterday for 1997 850. Nice car, my favorite paint/ interior combo and in an AWD wagon.... very nicely done sir. Very nicely done. Was the V70 cloth? I know my 850 (with leather) has a distinct 850 smell that no matter what I spill/ smoke/ whatever in my interior the smell will stay. There was a thread about it in off topic on turbobricks a while back... I'm not the only one who has noticed this. Welcome to that 850 smell, you will grow to love it. Killer 855! Edit: fix your damned headlight wipers!
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Jun 2, 2010 15:59
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mikerock posted:I traded my 98 V70XC yesterday for 1997 850. You might be able to cut out some of the scent by leaving a dish of baking soda on the dashboard overnight.
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Jun 2, 2010 16:33
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The V70 was grey leather same exterior colour, but it was worn and someone had spilled a minor amount of what I think was paint over the steering wheel, driver's side seat and door speaker (lots of little white dots.) Mechanically I don't plan on doing much. The starter probably needs to be replaced as you can hear it spooling down sometimes. Front brakes need some maintenance as I think it went to el cheapo brake shop last - the brakes squeal a bit even though the pads are good. This car was manufactured in Sweden and the motor in Belgium. Edit: wipers hah I just washed it I didn't notice they were wonky whoops!
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Jun 2, 2010 16:55
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UGH. I get in my car today and the AC/REC lights are flashing when I try to turn on the fans and air. There is very little air coming out of the vents and there's no cold air at all. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. What a pain.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:54
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So i fixed my problem. Turns out it was bad gas, and not using the timing mark on the washer rather then the pully.
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Jun 4, 2010 02:58
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Xovaan posted:So sometimes when I turn my key for my car before I start, I'll hear a whirring and a ping and my car will start immediately instead of cranking several times. What could be causing this? Am I hearing that some sort of injector isn't working and may be possibly shorting somewhere? I dunno about the "ping," but the whirring is your fuel pump running for a couple seconds to prime the system and build pressure. My car does this as well, and while it seems logical that it would do it every time you prepared to start the car, it's similarly intermittent. 
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Jun 4, 2010 03:12
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82Daion posted:I dunno about the "ping," but the whirring is your fuel pump running for a couple seconds to prime the system and build pressure. My car does this as well, and while it seems logical that it would do it every time you prepared to start the car, it's similarly intermittent. I had a total brainfart when writing that, haha. I'm fairly certain it's the fuel pump relay, which had its connection fried when the alternator was put in.  Thanks for confirming it though! This Saturday I'm pulling a drivetrain from another 240 for my friend and afterward taking the accessories I need to do some more work on the swap. 40 hours a week at the 'bux kills time for doing pretty much anything else. 
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Jun 4, 2010 10:40
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Xovaan posted:This Saturday I'm pulling a drivetrain from another 240 for my friend and afterward taking the accessories I need to do some more work on the swap. 40 hours a week at the 'bux kills time for doing pretty much anything else. Full time jobs are hard on the old hobbies. My car tinkering has taken a definite hit over the last decade or so - it's ironic, you finally have some money to do things correctly... and no free time or energy to actually get anything accomplished.  ON the plus side, you only have 45 or so years hard labor left and then it's shuffleboard and diapers all day long! Wheeee!
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Jun 7, 2010 20:11
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Ether Frenzy posted:Full time jobs are hard on the old hobbies. My car tinkering has taken a definite hit over the last decade or so - it's ironic, you finally have some money to do things correctly... and no free time or energy to actually get anything accomplished. True that! Maybe if I started up an MMORPG again I could start using those diapers a bit earlier than 50. Ah, the feeling of retirement. Oh, and I finally bought an engine hoist!  Now the only thing I'm waiting for is garage space and this swap is loving happening. My friend helped me completely strip my B230FT in my garage and now it's a matter of finding a shop to polish the head and getting various gaskets that didn't come in the Elring sets from IPD. But the engine looks phenomenal. The entire thing has virtually 0 carbon buildup and looks like the oil was changed pretty frequently. No oil pan sludge either. Like, at all.Apparently I need to upgrade my gauge cluster from mechanical to electrical. Is this true? I hear it can cause idling issues but I can't seem to find out why. 82Daion, did you do this? I'm guessing this is another one of those times where somebody on tbricks sold an important part in their car for meth or booze and then posted about why something isn't working.
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Jun 7, 2010 21:43
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What transmission are you using with the B230FT? If you're keeping your M46, you won't have to change anything, but if you're swapping to an M47, you'll need to find a rear end from a '89 or newer 240 along with the electronic gauge cluster. The LH2.4 240s had a sensor in the rear end that provided a signal for the electronic speedo, so the M47 doesn't have any provision for driving a speedo cable. Nor does the AW71 I swapped into my wagon, which is why I've been running without a speedometer for the past couple months. 
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Jun 7, 2010 22:02
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Does anybody know what the little clips that hold the brake lines into their brackets on 240s are called? I can't seem to find them anywhere for sale.
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Jun 8, 2010 01:48
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