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Yeah you're probably better off getting an emissions test, failing it, then going to any Midas or whatever exhaust shop and having them weld in a $100 universal cat on both sides. You don't need a VW/Audi specific shop.
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May 20, 2010 20:20
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my1999gsr posted:If you rev the engine in neutral is the noise there? Just got around to actually testing this. Yeah, it's there if I do that, but like I said, only after the car's warm. Anyway, I've got a more concrete problem to worry about. I think coolant is leaking from under the reservoir, cause I can see smoke coming up from under there after running for a bit, and occasionally I can hear a drip and see a larger gout of smoke. I'm also getting an intermittent CEL for camshaft position sensor, even after I took it to a shop to get that sensor replaced. They didn't see anything else wrong, I think it might be an electrical thing (coolant dripping on poo poo?). Gonna take it back for further diagnosis tomorrow. The joys of a 2.7T...
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May 21, 2010 02:17
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Is it nuts to purchase a 2003 Audi A6 Quattro with 160,000 miles on it for 7,500? It's had all the scheduled maintenance done, as well as work like a new fuel pump, water pump, and more. It's never been in an accident and the body looks outstanding, but I'm concerned that it could become a money pit for repairs. Are they reliable enough to justify the price?
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May 23, 2010 23:23
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I got into a minor bender with my 2006 Rabbit and I need a new bumper cover and passenger headlight assembly. I've tried looking online for replacements and I can't seem to find anything and all of the 10 or so junkyards I've called don't have anything. Is there a reputable place online to buy this stuff?
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May 24, 2010 00:23
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 A friend of mine bought a car recently 
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May 24, 2010 00:37
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Jimmy Thief posted:Is it nuts to purchase a 2003 Audi A6 Quattro with 160,000 miles on it for 7,500? It's had all the scheduled maintenance done, as well as work like a new fuel pump, water pump, and more. It's never been in an accident and the body looks outstanding, but I'm concerned that it could become a money pit for repairs. In general they tend to be pretty reliable, especially if they've been well taken care of. How long do you plan on owning it for? Things will eventually start to go wrong (like they would on any other vehicle) but the price premium for parts and diagnostics can get out of hand in a hurry. Still, if this A6 is in good shape you should get 2-5 years of decent operation but remember: it IS going on 8 years old.
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May 24, 2010 15:11
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Action Jackson! posted:I got into a minor bender with my 2006 Rabbit and I need a new bumper cover and passenger headlight assembly. I've tried looking online for replacements and I can't seem to find anything and all of the 10 or so junkyards I've called don't have anything. Is there a reputable place online to buy this stuff? Non-OEM VW body pieces are notoriously difficult to source (at least in my area) so we've tried to find an aftermarket supplier for years with no luck. I'm in Canada though and we just don't have the aftermarket the US does. I will say this though - we've got a saying in the shop: "What does 'aftermarket' mean?" "Does not fit." Any of the VW body parts I've installed have fit perfectly so it can be worth the premium price.
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May 24, 2010 15:15
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destructo posted:
That's a beautiful S4! That body-style and engine combo have always been my favorite - it doesn't have the 4.2L's grunt but the turbo spool-up and chassis are top-notch.
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May 24, 2010 15:18
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Just as a side note - I'm going on a 3 day R8 training course at the end of June so if anybody wants technical pics I'll try to snap a few with my phone.
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May 24, 2010 15:20
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my1999gsr posted:Non-OEM VW body pieces are notoriously difficult to source (at least in my area) so we've tried to find an aftermarket supplier for years with no luck. I'm in Canada though and we just don't have the aftermarket the US does. I will say this though - we've got a saying in the shop: It looks like a VW dealership is going to be the way to go. I just got a quote froma local VW dealership and $377 bucks for the bumper cover and $250 for a headlight isn't too bad I guess. Now to find a place to get it painted. Should I completely skip Maaco? I've never heard anything good about their full body painting services but honestly how can you gently caress up a bumper?
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May 24, 2010 15:34
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My wife just purchased a new A4 2.0T (front trac). Why is there such a god awful lag when you drop the accelerator from a stand still? Is it just turbo lag, or is there something else going on? When I drive it I'm afraid to pull out in traffic as it seems to spend a good second just thinking abut going fast before it actually does.
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May 24, 2010 17:03
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Action Jackson! posted:It looks like a VW dealership is going to be the way to go. I just got a quote froma local VW dealership and $377 bucks for the bumper cover and $250 for a headlight isn't too bad I guess. Now to find a place to get it painted. Should I completely skip Maaco? I've never heard anything good about their full body painting services but honestly how can you gently caress up a bumper? Never Maaco. Ever. They messed up my old hood and front lip so badly I had to call customer service in Pennsylvania to complain about it. Ask your VW dealership where they get their paint and body work done and see what their prices are like.
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May 24, 2010 17:09
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:My wife just purchased a new A4 2.0T (front trac). Why is there such a god awful lag when you drop the accelerator from a stand still? Is it just turbo lag, or is there something else going on? When I drive it I'm afraid to pull out in traffic as it seems to spend a good second just thinking abut going fast before it actually does. It's probably the drive by wire setup - we've had piles of complaints from customers about it. The system is set up to learn your driving style over time so some of that lag should disappear. If it doesn't, stop by your local dealer and get them to road-test it to see what's up.
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May 24, 2010 17:11
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I've got the notorious OBD P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch Circ Performance or Stuck Off) code in my 2002 A6 Tiptronic -- is my torque converter really shot or can I just change out the fluid? I'm hearing mixed opinions and I'm sure if I ask a shop they'll tell me I need a new TC. Why would they pass up a chance at $1,500+ in labor?
Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 00:20 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 00:15
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Neon Machete posted:I've got the notorious OBD P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch Circ Performance or Stuck Off) code in my 2002 A6 Tiptronic -- is my torque converter really shot or can I just change out the fluid? I'm hearing mixed opinions and I'm sure if I ask a shop they'll tell me I need a new TC. Why would they pass up a chance at $1,500+ in labor? I have grave doubts that a fluid change will help your problem. Believe me when I tell you, no technician in the world wants to pull the tranny on an A6 - it's no fun and on flat rate you have a really hard time making money doing it so we don't call a torque converter unless there's any other way explain or repair the problem. Are you having any driveability issues or is the MIL on?
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May 27, 2010 00:45
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I've been looking to pick up a car lately and I ran across this 1996 Passat. Now I talked the guy down to $500 (still wondering if he'll keep his word tomorrow). It's a great deal, but there's a bunch of things that need to be fixed with the car. -Windshield has gigantic crack, needs replacement -Nearly all door handles are broken, you need to roll down the windows to get in or go through the back passenger door -Interior is wrecked -Some rust on a door -Gas tank has bad rust -Clutch screeches like a bat out of hell -Digital Odometer is broken The car definitely needs some TLC, but the engine is still going strong. Took it for a quick test drive and the thing took off without a hitch (aside from the screeching). No fluids came out after the test drive either. I need to get this car past inspection at the end of June. The windshield shouldn't cost too much. I guess the only things are the clutch and the odometer. I'm not too sure how much fixing that is going to cost. Is the cost of repairing the thing worth it? IronDoge fucked around with this message at 02:22 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 02:10
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my1999gsr posted:I have grave doubts that a fluid change will help your problem. Believe me when I tell you, no technician in the world wants to pull the tranny on an A6 - it's no fun and on flat rate you have a really hard time making money doing it so we don't call a torque converter unless there's any other way explain or repair the problem. Are you having any driveability issues or is the MIL on? I'm not having any driving issues, but the MIL keeps popping up about once a day. I've cleared it about three times and it continues coming back. I'm pretty hesitant to continue driving it with this problem--do I want to pay two grand now or six or more grand later when my transmission dies?
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May 27, 2010 18:33
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Ironsights posted:I've been looking to pick up a car lately and I ran across this 1996 Passat. Now I talked the guy down to $500 (still wondering if he'll keep his word tomorrow). It's a great deal, but there's a bunch of things that need to be fixed with the car. It's hard to say - if you brought your car to my dealership and asked that question I'd say drive it till it breaks and dump it. For $500 bucks plus a windshield to pass safety it's a pretty decent car - even with the other cosmetic stuff.
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May 28, 2010 23:33
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Neon Machete posted:I'm not having any driving issues, but the MIL keeps popping up about once a day. I've cleared it about three times and it continues coming back. I'm pretty hesitant to continue driving it with this problem--do I want to pay two grand now or six or more grand later when my transmission dies? If I understand the fault correctly, your torque converter clutch solenoid isn't working correctly or it is unable to lock up. That being the case then the only real issue you should have is poor highway fuel economy which won't result in a transmission failure.
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May 29, 2010 02:47
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Just purchased a 91 Jetta GL with the 1.8l Fuel Injected. Going to swap the engine out for a 1.6l TD
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May 30, 2010 01:29
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Jimmy Thief posted:Is it nuts to purchase a 2003 Audi A6 Quattro with 160,000 miles on it for 7,500? It's had all the scheduled maintenance done, as well as work like a new fuel pump, water pump, and more. It's never been in an accident and the body looks outstanding, but I'm concerned that it could become a money pit for repairs. It depends on the model. The 2.7t is a great engine but I'd avoid one with 160k unless the turbos were done recently and it has regular service records. The 4.2 wasn't bad but tended to have transmission problems unless the transmission fluid was changed regularly. The NA V6 models were pretty rock solid, especially if it's a manual. The front control arms on all models will wear out and break after a while. There will also be some minor electronic niggles once in a while. The cars are annoying to service yourself and expensive if you go to a dealer. $7500 is far far far far far too much for the car though. A 100k mile 2003 A6 2.7t had a market price of ~9k when we sold ours in '08. my1999gsr posted:That's a beautiful S4! That body-style and engine combo have always been my favorite - it doesn't have the 4.2L's grunt but the turbo spool-up and chassis are top-notch. Have you been in a chipped 2.7t? They put the 4.2 to shame in terms of grunt. Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 01:53 on May 30, 2010 |
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May 30, 2010 01:40
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swank luxury european sports car 500 dollar 1982 Jetta diesel, 5-speed, 272k Started right up, drove it 400 miles, but the vacuum pump is dead, weak brakes. The floor pans have a few surface rust spots - looks like it's been painted at least once before with POR-15. Some spots starting at the edge of the doors as well. I'm probably gonna sand and prep the exterior myself, and get some cheap dominican shop to chop off the bits of cancer and paint it black - will probably soon to be flat black with my budget, but better then rust. Plenty of annoying issues beyond that, looks like someone was unhappy with the owner at some point and did a number on the paint, etched some crap on the bumper too. Thinking about a megathread but most of the work is labor intensive at worst, at least it's a realistic project in that way. I've had to
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May 30, 2010 05:44
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Muffinpox posted:
I've driven a couple of chipped 2.7s - yeah, they're fast but they're all long out of warranty now and most have pretty high miles. Besides, you can't beat the exhaust note of the 4.2.
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May 30, 2010 17:52
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I have a question about reliability. Ive been looking at early to late 90s VW Jettas and Cabrios. Ive not heard good things about VW reliability recently. How were they back then? Should I stay away from $5k 80k-120k mile Jettas and Cabrios? Also do the older TDIs hold up well?
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May 30, 2010 21:11
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Hey my1999gsr, got a question about those rubber window channels on MKVI GTI/Golf doors (they run along the window where door and glass meet, I think they're called channels?) Mine started coming off at the edges (on the end that's closer to door handle) so I took it to the dealer and they fixed it, but I noticed that I can still push them up and pull them out. Are they supposed to be glued on tight or to just clamp on? They're not really coming off, but it still seems like something that should be more secure. Also I have a pretty annoying rattle in the upper center console thing in my GTI, the one that's in the headliner right above the shifter/center vents. It has the lights and Bluetooth stuff inside and doesn't look like it's easy to take apart, the thing that rattles is the glass light panel itself. Do you think a dealership should be able to do something about it?
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Jun 1, 2010 17:17
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I read on one of the forums that is the kind of thing people had issues with on some models. Wind noise in the door and that area you mentioned. They said they brought it up at the 90 day check up and had it fixed. I have my check up scheduled for July (The Friday before waterfest as it turns out). I wonder if there is anything else I should be aware of to bring up before I go in. My last car was a noisy thing and this one is way quiet comparatively so I wonder if I just don't notice things like that.
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Jun 2, 2010 00:11
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I already had it fixed, that's the thing. I'm just not sure if those channels should be glued on or just held by friction. Knowing that would help me figure out if they were fixed properly or not.
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Jun 2, 2010 00:17
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I've had my 2003 A4 3.0 for about 9 months, and in that time I've replaced: Timing belt/water pump Power steering pump Ignition coils (covered by recall) All the vacuum lines It seems like I'm getting soaked for a couple hundred bucks every time I start the thing, but I love driving it so much I really don't want to get rid of it. Anywho, I am no mechanic, but whenever anything goes wrong with it, I can usually troubleshoot the problem with reasonable accuracy, but this new one has me stumped. Often when I turn the key to the on position, the climate control and radio will come on but none of the lights in the instrument cluster will illuminate. I now must cycle the key on and off 5 or 6 times to get the cluster to light up, but when I can get it to do that, I now have to wait 2 or 3 minutes before I try to start the engine or the starter will just crank and the engine won't turn over. This only happens when it's hot outside, It works just fine in the mornings. Any help you guys can offer a frustrated fellow Audi owner would be most appreciated. edit: overuse of commas fixed
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Jun 2, 2010 08:00
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Autism Sundae posted:I already had it fixed, that's the thing. I'm just not sure if those channels should be glued on or just held by friction. Knowing that would help me figure out if they were fixed properly or not. The window guide channels aren't glued - they've got rubber barbs that are supposed to hold them the metal guides. The original seals tend to fit much better than the OEM replacement parts we install but over time the rubber tends to conform better to the channels they press into. Can the dealer do something about the upper center console rattles you have? Usually. The problem is who will be paying for it. If you have some warranty coverage and you've got less than 30,000 kms (IIRC) then the dealership should repair the rattle at no charge. If you don't have coverage it's not that hard to take that console down and have a look to see what's making the noise. Call your dealership and see what they say - if they won't help you then post back here and I'll give you the steps to remove the console on your own.
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Jun 2, 2010 12:12
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Captain Tact posted:I've had my 2003 A4 3.0 for about 9 months, and in that time I've replaced: With the newer cars problems like this are a little harder to troubleshoot without looking at it in person. Having said that it sounds like your igntion switch might have a problem - I've replaced them for similar problems but it's just a guess without any other diagnosis.
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Jun 2, 2010 12:15
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Sadi posted:I have a question about reliability. Ive been looking at early to late 90s VW Jettas and Cabrios. Ive not heard good things about VW reliability recently. How were they back then? Should I stay away from $5k 80k-120k mile Jettas and Cabrios? Also do the older TDIs hold up well? The early 90's VW products are pretty much the best vehicles we've produced - simple, reliable and usually cheap to fix. Most of my co-workers snap the 90's Jetta/Golfs up as soon as they're traded in. The older TDI engines are also really, really tough engines - 2 of my co-workers have A3-style Jettas with over 400,000 kms with only regular maintenance. If you can find one you like with a solid body and some service history, they're pretty tough cars to kill and decent to drive and service.
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Jun 2, 2010 12:20
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my1999gsr posted:The window guide channels aren't glued - they've got rubber barbs that are supposed to hold them the metal guides. The original seals tend to fit much better than the OEM replacement parts we install but over time the rubber tends to conform better to the channels they press into. Thanks! Looks like the channel thing is a non-issue then. As for the console, It's a brand new car so it should be covered. I told the dealership about the rattle, but they're giving me the "cannot reproduce"/"we cannot guarantee that the new parts we install won't do the same thing" combo. It's a very obvious rattle, so I don't really believe that they can't reproduce it, just sounds like they don't want to do any work.
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Jun 2, 2010 14:54
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I just got my first car, a 2006 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5l. It's great and all but there are two things that I am concerned about. First, I'm disappointed with the hubcaps. Does anyone have any experience with trading these or buying them? Can I get any ole hubcaps and slap them on as long as they're the same size? Then the second thing is I want to delabel the car. I was told you could just cut off the labels(dealership, Jetta, and 2.5l plastic chrome) with some fishing wire and then set it out in the sun and rub it off with a rag and goo-gone. Is this the proper way to go about this? If not, what is?
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Jun 3, 2010 04:09
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Shubs posted:Then the second thing is I want to delabel the car. I was told you could just cut off the labels(dealership, Jetta, and 2.5l plastic chrome) with some fishing wire and then set it out in the sun and rub it off with a rag and goo-gone. Is this the proper way to go about this? If not, what is? This is how I've debadged cars in the past. Take a hair dryer to it or leave it in the sun to get the adhesive soft, and then even dental floss will work in substitute of fishing line.
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Jun 3, 2010 16:31
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You will probably see where the badges were because the paint won't be faded from the sun. You'll also want to polish/wax the area once you've removed all the adhesive.
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Jun 3, 2010 16:39
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my1999gsr, could you please look up TSB #2023248?
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Jun 3, 2010 18:34
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Any huge problem spots if I'm considering a 2003 Jetta 1.8T? The engine is picky about oil, right?
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Jun 3, 2010 19:13
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1.8t's had problems with oil sludging and timing belt tensioners failing before the maintenance interval. If you change the oil regularly and do the timing belt earlier than the service interval it's not really a problem.
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Jun 3, 2010 21:27
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I thought the sludging was mainly an issue with the longitudinal 1.8Ts.
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Jun 3, 2010 21:58
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Mad Dragon posted:I thought the sludging was mainly an issue with the longitudinal 1.8Ts. It is, not so much with the transverse. Very true about the tensioner, 60k belt changes to be safe. 2003-2004 weren't bad compared to the earlier MK4s but I would never buy one again besides a TDI or R32 where its worth dealing with the problems.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:07
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