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EssOEss posted:I don't live in the US where laws are made up of fairy dust and pickles, but over here in Europe, if you damage another person's property (by, you know, driving into it), you'll drat straight pay for it no matter what (or have your insurance pay for it). Well yeah, he could take her to court and win a judgment against her, but if she has no assets and no job then there is literally no money to collect. She would legally owe him the money but that money doesn't magically materialize out of nowhere. Under the laws in your country would you somehow collect money if she has no assets and no job?
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Jul 2, 2010 19:33
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I gotta say, it sucks but the guy is right, he's not gonna see a dime (which is why I always always always get uninsured motorist coverage no matter what. Imagine if he'd been injured and had tens of thousands of dollars in medical bills?) Anyway I think the frame is compromised on that car. It means whatever you do, short of spending a ton of money on getting parts of the frame cut out and replaced, the vehicle is less safe to drive; another impact in that area of the car, and it won't absorb energy as well, so you'll be at higher risk of injury. That said, if you're comfortable with the risk, some straightening, some junkyard parts, and you'll have an ugly but serviceable beater. Alternatively, most of the expensive parts of the car are in the front, so you could part it out or sell it as-is and use the money to get another car maybe.
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Jul 2, 2010 19:50
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Is it possible to push-start an MT car with EFI and a dead battery? If so, how does it get fuel if there's no power to work the injectors? I'm hoping I'll never have to, but it'll be good to know that I have the option if it ever comes about.
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Jul 2, 2010 20:32
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teh jhey posted:Is it possible to push-start an MT car with EFI and a dead battery? If so, how does it get fuel if there's no power to work the injectors? There's dead battery, and there's "just too dead to turn the starter." I've successfully roll started in the latter situation, and its certainly an option with a dead starter motor.
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Jul 2, 2010 20:57
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Sindow posted:I know it's hard to tell from a picture but other than the car not driving straight everything else seems to be fine? You have an odd definition of fine, my friend. At least knock that rear panel by the fuel filler roughly back into shape and check the filler neck, the last thing you want is gas leaking under your heap. Then hit the junkyard and find another Accord you can get a left rear tail light from and rape it of everything that goes in that mangled wheel well. Suspension, drum brake, hub, everything. If the tire is ok have it mounted on your non-hosed junkyard wheel and get the whole mess aligned. Then if you cross your fingers and sacrifice a chicken to the auto gods on a sunday under a full moon it might not give you any more poo poo. Or it might. The auto gods are capricious. Apparently my A/C compressor pleases them greatly because it still works after two front end collisions, it's 12 years old and has a dent the size of my fist in it. 
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Jul 2, 2010 23:58
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Sindow posted:Nope I have super basic insurance, it's only collision. No money or fixing from insurance, no money from the people who did this, I'm all own my own. Yeah, so you're going to need to buy a new car. Really sorry about your luck, but driving that without thousands in professional work is like driving around with a gun taped muzzle first to your temple.
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Jul 3, 2010 01:44
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I'll probably head to a Pick'N'Pull and try to replace as much of the suspension and cosmetic things as I can eventually, I'm just seeing if anyone has any tips to get it highway worthy for super cheap/fast.
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Skyssx posted:Yeah, so you're going to need to buy a new car. Really sorry about your luck, but driving that without thousands in professional work is like driving around with a gun taped muzzle first to your temple. Doesn't collision cover things like someone hitting your car? Now I am worried about my car...
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Jul 3, 2010 06:36
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No - collision covers damage to your car, but only if you cause it (i.e. you run into someone's car, it pays to fix your car). Liability is typically the only legal requirement, and fixes who/whatever you hit. The only types of insurance that will cover this are lumped in under 'comprehensive', and typically you need an additional rider for under/uninsured drivers (those whose liability is too small to cover your damage, or who have no insurance whatsoever).
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Jul 3, 2010 07:07
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I have liability with under/uninsured driver and obscene medical, I didn't know it was uncommon.
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Jul 3, 2010 07:59
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Quick question again about my Volvo 850. When i turn off the engine the battery light flickers. Is this normal? Should i be worried? It never comes on while the engine is just running. Just tell me the alternator isn't going to die cause that loving thing costs 300€...
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Jul 3, 2010 20:05
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Shai-Hulud posted:Quick question again about my Volvo 850. When i turn off the engine the battery light flickers. Is this normal? Should i be worried? It never comes on while the engine is just running. Its the alternator shutting off before the ECU, normal.
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Jul 4, 2010 02:10
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Baby Hitler posted:I have liability with under/uninsured driver and obscene medical, I didn't know it was uncommon. I wouldn't say it's uncommon - I think most people with 'comprehensive' have under/uninsured coverage unless their insurance agent sucks rear end or they're being absurdly cheap. It just doesn't normally go onto bare minimum coverage by default.
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Jul 4, 2010 02:26
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I think if companies offered a plan called "just enough to shut the DMV up", people would flock to it.
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Jul 4, 2010 03:11
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I would also like a "complete protection from other people's stupidity only" insurance package.
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Jul 4, 2010 03:38
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Javid posted:I think if companies offered a plan called "just enough to shut the DMV up", people would flock to it. That's pretty much exactly SafeAuto's angle Billboards with a big cop peering down wearing aviators low on his nose and the caption, "Are you covered?" Radio ads with the tagline, "State minimum coverage for less!" TV commercials where a stereotypical stoner realizes he doesn't have to leave the house to get insurance from "Justin Case." When I see a car with a SafeAuto bumper sticker I get just a little bit nervous.
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Jul 4, 2010 03:50
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Javid posted:I think if companies offered a plan called "just enough to shut the DMV up", people would flock to it. That is easy to get, just don't tick any boxes.
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Jul 4, 2010 05:47
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eddiewalker posted:When I see a car with a SafeAuto bumper sticker I get just a little bit nervous. Speaking of that why do people put safeauto stickers on their car? Are they required by the insurance company to get some sort of additional discount?
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Jul 4, 2010 06:42
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_firehawk posted:Speaking of that why do people put safeauto stickers on their car? Are they required by the insurance company to get some sort of additional discount? I'd say it's probably for the same reason I see a lot of people with State Farm or other insurance companies' stickers. Just to say to cops "hey, I am insured, dude." Why, though? I have no idea.
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Jul 4, 2010 15:44
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My Monte Carlo with a 305 misses a lot when its cold if I give it a decent amount of gas. Some times I'll stomp on it and it'll have absolutely no power and backfire a little bit. This only happens when the car is cold and hasn't been started in quite some time. It gradually goes away completely over a span of being driven for 20-30 minutes, and the car is fine if I just take it slow while it warms up and dont give it too much gas. The carb isn't anywhere close to being tuned correctly and is probably hosed, too big and being replaced so I figure it has to do with that. This isn't a sign of something major is it? I don't think it is but I'd rather be safe. Considering the car runs flawlessly once its nice and warm I think its just the carb tuned all lovely.
Pretty Little Rainbow fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jul 5, 2010 |
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Jul 5, 2010 02:09
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Pretty Little Rainbow posted:My Monte Carlo with a 305 misses a lot when its cold if I give it a decent amount of gas. Some times I'll stomp on it and it'll have absolutely no power and backfire a little bit. This only happens when the car is cold and hasn't been started in quite some time. It gradually goes away completely over a span of being driven for 20-30 minutes, and the car is fine if I just take it slow while it warms up and dont give it too much gas. The carb isn't anywhere close to being tuned correctly and is probably hosed, too big and being replaced so I figure it has to do with that. This isn't a sign of something major is it? I don't think it is but I'd rather be safe. Considering the car runs flawlessly once its nice and warm I think its just the carb tuned all lovely. Is the automatic choke functioning? Meaning, is it closed when the car is cold? It's obviously open when the car is warmed up, but it could be stuck that way. It should be the first butterfly valve in front of the air filter. Pull off the filter an have a look. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jul 5, 2010 |
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Jul 5, 2010 02:28
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I drive a 2003 Mazda Protege. Anyways, after driving nearly 500km, I stopped for a washroom/food break off the highway, after returning about 30 minutes later my car wouldn't start at all. The battery was completely dead.. I'm assuming I just need a new battery since it's fairly old (3+ years) but my question is, would blasting the AC for nearly 5 hours have anything to do with my car crapping out like this? I got a jump and drove home without a problem, so I'm assuming the alternator isn't the issue, otherwise my car would have died on the highway? I'm completely retarded when it comes to cars so I apologize if this is a dumb question. I'm going to take it in tomorrow but I'm curious in the meantime. Thanks!
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Jul 5, 2010 03:29
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Scrum posted:I drive a 2003 Mazda Protege. Anyways, after driving nearly 500km, I stopped for a washroom/food break off the highway, after returning about 30 minutes later my car wouldn't start at all. The battery was completely dead.. I'm assuming I just need a new battery since it's fairly old (3+ years) but my question is, would blasting the AC for nearly 5 hours have anything to do with my car crapping out like this? Could be the regulator, which is probably inside your alternator anyways. The alternator can make power for engine loads without charging the battery. The regulator is supposed to sense battery voltage and only charge it as needed. I recently had a regulator die and while the car drove fine, I had to jump start it every time. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jul 5, 2010 |
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Jul 5, 2010 03:34
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http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/1825808830.html So if all this car required was for the heads to be replaced, would it be worth purchasing for that price? This is assuming nothing else is wrong, good body condition and not an extreme amount of mileage on the vehicle.
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Jul 5, 2010 05:24
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Im getting Ticking on my radio when listening to FM stations. I do not hear it on AM. The stations have a good signal. The ticking is in step with the engine (more frequent the higher the engine RPM is). Suggestions? Google seems to suggest that it could be a bad alternator, bad spark plug wires, or a faulty ground somewhere in the car. For reference I have a 92 C1500 Chevy Pickup with the 5.0L V8 and an aftermarket Pioneer head unit.
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Jul 5, 2010 07:37
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I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy. The screws that hold the sun visor on the driver's side will not tighten, and the visor becomes very loose if you need to put it down. I think that the plastic piece in the ceiling is actually the part that is stripped, not the screw. What can I do to fix this? I actually tried to put super glue in the screw holes and then tighten them, but this didn't hold, obviously. I googled to see if I could replace the ceiling piece, but didn't find anything.
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Jul 5, 2010 09:56
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porkfriedrice posted:I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy. The screws that hold the sun visor on the driver's side will not tighten, and the visor becomes very loose if you need to put it down. I think that the plastic piece in the ceiling is actually the part that is stripped, not the screw. What can I do to fix this? I actually tried to put super glue in the screw holes and then tighten them, but this didn't hold, obviously. I googled to see if I could replace the ceiling piece, but didn't find anything. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=5002837 Cut off a piece, fold it over if the hole is big enough, shove in, then screw. The strips are punched like a rasp or a cheese grater so they grip onto the inside of the hole, then give the screw something new to hold.
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Jul 5, 2010 16:09
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_firehawk posted:Speaking of that why do people put safeauto stickers on their car? Are they required by the insurance company to get some sort of additional discount? You can literally make a sticker that says anything at all and there are folks out there that will apply it to their vehicle.
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Jul 5, 2010 16:18
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Desterado posted:http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/1825808830.html I would say yes. My brother picked up an 85 300zx ($1100) a couple of weeks ago, ripped off the top of the motor, replaced $5-600 of poo poo, and now it's road legal. The only thing I would be weary of is the word "upgraded". I guess you could just call the guy and get the details of the situation.
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Jul 5, 2010 18:30
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http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/1826267101.html My own syracuse CL question: What do you think of this car? I called the guy up and talked to him, he told me that the tach doesn't work and the power locks don't work but everything else is solid. No body rust except a little on the muffler. I wasn't sure if the motor had been swapped from a 3000gt, he said that it depended on the year whether or not it was labeled Mitsubishi or Dodge. I think it looks like a good deal. If it's as clean and as solid as he says and it appears to be, I'll offer $2400 for it, I don't want to go much over $2500. It's just that 140,000 is getting to be a lot of miles...
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Jul 5, 2010 18:46
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I am about to pull the trigger on a certified pre-owned '05 Altima 3.5 SL with 54k miles. The carfax checks out, except with a minor $300 repair for something. The price of this is $11.5k and $13.7k after tax/fees. This car is fully loaded with everything including leather seats, but minus navigation (8yr 120k warranty from 2005). There is a good bit of road noise but the dealer changed all four tires out when I mentioned that. There were three owners, but the car is in very nice condition except with a few small dings on the driver door. I was not expecting all the features in an econobox so I was pleasantly surprised at the price, but just want to know if this is a pretty good deal for my money or should I look for something else in particular? It's my first car so I'm extra skittish and would love some goon-pinions. Also is there anything else I can do about the road noise if the tires don't help? It was sort of annoying, even at 40MPH. Thanks!
karazi fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jul 6, 2010 |
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Jul 6, 2010 00:15
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karazi posted:is there anything else I can do about the road noise if the tires don't help? It was sort of annoying, even at 40MPH. Thanks! Does the radio work?
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Jul 6, 2010 00:17
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Yeah, am I just being a picky human being for my price range? edit: Bose
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Jul 6, 2010 00:27
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How crazy will my brakes get on my 65 Lincoln if I bypass the proportioning valve? This thing is leaking like all hell.
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Jul 6, 2010 03:10
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So I got my car serviced at my usual mechanic today, and apparently there's a leak in the transmission housing (ie, not at the flywheel but halfway along the transmission). They said it should be under warranty, and from flicking through the warranty there's nothing that says it isn't, but the local ford dealer has a bad reputation. Anything I should worry about and if they do try and stiff me how exactly do I go about resolving it? (I'm Australian, so I would probably be taking any complaints to Ford Australia.)
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Jul 6, 2010 05:59
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Ephphatha posted:So I got my car serviced at my usual mechanic today, and apparently there's a leak in the transmission housing (ie, not at the flywheel but halfway along the transmission). They said it should be under warranty, and from flicking through the warranty there's nothing that says it isn't, but the local ford dealer has a bad reputation. As far as I know most car companies just have a general drivetrain warranty. Should be fine but I don't really know.
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Jul 6, 2010 06:44
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This is an incredibly stupid question so I'm sorry ahead of time!! My brakes are sporadically giving out on me. Sometimes they work fine, other times it takes a significantly greater amount of pressure to get stopping to occur. The problem is getting worse. Before I just had to push a little harder, but yesterday I had to slam on my brakes, causing my tires to squeal and a smell of burning rubber. My car even skidded into an intersection despite me trying to brake earlier than I would normally have to. I talked to a mechanic who suggested it could be a master cylinder problem. The question: I can't get my car to the shop for two days and I absolutely need my car to get to work. How bad is it to continue driving with this problem, safety issues aside?
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Jul 6, 2010 07:04
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bred posted:How crazy will my brakes get on my 65 Lincoln if I bypass the proportioning valve? Probably pretty crazy? Why on earth would you not just fix it properly?
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Jul 6, 2010 07:06
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Lackadaisical posted:My brakes are sporadically giving out on me. Sometimes they work fine, other times it takes a significantly greater amount of pressure to get stopping to occur. The problem is getting worse. Before I just had to push a little harder, but yesterday I had to slam on my brakes, causing my tires to squeal and a smell of burning rubber. My car even skidded into an intersection despite me trying to brake earlier than I would normally have to. I talked to a mechanic who suggested it could be a master cylinder problem. At low speeds, I'm surprised that locking up the tires is sending you into the intersection even if you're anticipating having to brake early and putting down enough force to get lockup. How fast were you going when you started braking? Are you having to repump the brake to get any resistance from it? Is there any correlation to when the brakes give out and how much you've braked in, say, the 5 minutes prior to the incident? Have you checked your brake fluid level and color? If you only talked over the phone and didn't have anyone check it out, you should do that asap. It could be something obvious. I've got my own question -- in convertibles with a glass rear window, when the glass breaks, is the replacement procedure usually to replace the whole top? I'm thinking from an insurance perspective about what an adequate repair would be. In MA, glass replacement is free with no deductible, but I don't know if that applies in this situation.
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Jul 6, 2010 07:28
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kimbo305 posted:At low speeds, I'm surprised that locking up the tires is sending you into the intersection even if you're anticipating having to brake early and putting down enough force to get lockup. How fast were you going when you started braking? Are you having to repump the brake to get any resistance from it? I have an appointment to have someone actually take a look on Wednesday morning but I have to do some driving until then unfortunately. I was getting off the freeway when that happened so I was probably going 40 mph. I haven't noticed any correlation. It just happens randomly from what I can tell. I also have no idea how to check my brake fluid.
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Jul 6, 2010 07:49
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Lackadaisical posted:I was getting off the freeway when that happened so I was probably going 40 mph. I haven't noticed any correlation. It just happens randomly from what I can tell. I also have no idea how to check my brake fluid. check your manual, but it is located on the firewall usually and looks something like this: http://www.trustmymechanic.com/reservoirs.html If you are really low, that would indicate a leak and confirms something is up with your brake system.
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Jul 6, 2010 07:52
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