|
Possible concern about my turbo, recall when I overloaded the engine. Now I don't think I'm still getting full boost. I wish I would have paid more attention to the gauge but It doesn't seem to boosting well. I don't "hear" that turbo spool anymore. I'm usually paranoid about every sound I hear (and with a 26 year old wagon, that's a lot of sounds!) But does this seem right? After I take my foot of the gas the boost gauge will drop to the bottom. It won't crack the second partition on the gauge if I'm 1st. And it will only boost higher if I'm in a higher gear. When I'm in neutral, it also won't crack the second partition on the gauge. So, am I being paranoid?
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2010 16:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 20:02 |
|
|
Crispulus posted:Possible concern about my turbo, recall when I overloaded the engine. Now I don't think I'm still getting full boost. I wish I would have paid more attention to the gauge but It doesn't seem to boosting well. I don't "hear" that turbo spool anymore. Could be a boost leak. Check all of the intake hoses/pipes thoroughly for holes. You might also pull off your intake piping entirely and ensure that there's no shaft play in the turbo or anything like that. A common problem (if your turbo has one) is that the compressor bypass valve diaphragm goes bad and prevents the turbo from building boost. It's dead simple to check on my 15G. I'm not sure what turbo you're running, but it might be worth a look. Your catalytic converter might also be going bad. If it's plugged/damaged, it may prevent the turbo from fully building boost. Not sure how you'd check that. Since your car's turbo seems to get red-hot, it might behoove you to run the car for a minute or two after reaching your destination in order to let the oil continue to circulate through it and cool it off, if you're not doing so already. I'm sure I'm telling you stuff you already know, but the oil can burn/coke in the turbo and eventually damage the center section. When my 940 experienced a catastrophic cat failure, I couldn't get into boost at all, and the car eventually blew an intake hose as well. After a new cat/hose, the car is running fine. Hope this is of some help.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2010 17:42
|
|
|
It's also worth checking your wastegate actuator and the vacuum line that controls it. I don't believe that the T3 that came on the original 240s has a CBV.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2010 22:48
|
|
|
I know that very few people here care about Volvo's latest stuff, but Swedespeed and Automobile have both driven the new S60 and seemed to like it a lot. I'm just happy they seem to have risen to the challenge of producing a good car. http://www.swedespeed.com/news/publish/Features/article_1825.html http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/driven/1006_2011_volvo_s60/index.html
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2010 00:14
|
|
|
TheJeffers posted:I know that very few people here care about Volvo's latest stuff, but Swedespeed and Automobile have both driven the new S60 and seemed to like it a lot. I'm just happy they seem to have risen to the challenge of producing a good car. This is interesting to me, at least. I eventually plan to take up the whole "Volvo sends you to Sweden to meet your new car and you drive it around Europe for a couple weeks" deal with an XC70. Good lookin' out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2010 06:07
|
|
|
If the cat is going bad and I just replace it with straight pipe (I have a 2.5in sports exhaust coming from Skandix that replaces from turbo back [IE: cat delete]) would that lessen or greaten the problem? What should I expect from a cat delete anyways? Thanks for the input guys.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2010 07:03
|
|
|
Your emissions will increase, but that's about it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2010 07:07
|
|
|
Will I get to see the lambda-sond CEL all the time now?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2010 07:53
|
|
|
Your O2 sensor is pre-cat, so it shouldn't change anything. As for the lambda light, I believe that it's just triggered at a certain mileage interval (to indicate the need for O2 sensor replacement) and doesn't serve any diagnostic function. The greenbook for troubleshooting the lambda system doesn't even mention it, if that's any indication of its importance.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2010 08:15
|
|
|
Yea, struggle building boost and red hot turbo is def a sign of cat clogging. Pull that thing off and shine a light in it. I recommend a sawzall.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2010 05:45
|
|
|
I like the new s60, I just have to wait from them to be cheap 
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2010 17:19
|
|
|
How do you diagnose a red-hot turbo that doesn't have trouble building boost? Could it be my exhaust leak?  By the way 3" exhaust is loving huge. I can't wait to get the whole thing. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2010 01:50
|
|
|
On my 90 volvo 740 nonturbo I got a set of the headlights + foglamps to replace my broken headlights (no foglamps) and there is a plug on the harness to plug in the fog lights but I dont have the switch on the dash for em (just the rear fog light) is there any easy way to get these working? I would assume most of whats needed is there if they had the pig tail there already from factory. Is it as simple as using the correct switch (the 2 setting one vs the 1 setting one) or what?
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2010 02:21
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:How do you diagnose a red-hot turbo that doesn't have trouble building boost? Could it be my exhaust leak? I like that we are 2.1L turbo buddies. Oh, the 164E isn't starting. loving hell, on a holiday weekend to boot. Fuel pump is on. Starter is spinning. I'm hoping it is something simple like a dis. cap or rotor. Crispulus fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jul 4, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2010 18:53
|
|
|
Finally decided I wanted to drive again, so I fixed the clutch cable on my 242 turbo. Then mounted new (ish) tires all around - Yokohama ES100s. Balanced and aligned. Insured and registered the car and paid up my license. Spent an hour pulling the front air dam off the bumper and repainting the chipped, beaten gray a nice flat black which clashes kinda nicely with fresh steel bolts holding it in place. The 28 year old factory ones sucked, sheared three of the six off with a ratchet set and broke a ratchet adapter removing them. Two days after squaring that away and pricing replacement exhausts, my rear end starts making an amplified, shuddering grinding sound when the car is not accelerating. I think I am doomed to differential problems - I have a '94 Camaro with a wrecked rear end sitting next to the garage.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2010 01:06
|
|
|
I a 1997 850 Sedan with 144k on it for $1500 a good deal? Reliable? Any really horrible things happen to these models?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2010 21:38
|
|
|
8ender posted:I a 1997 850 Sedan with 144k on it for $1500 a good deal? Reliable? Any really horrible things happen to these models? I sold a 98 S70 with about 140k on it for $2000...so it's not out of the realm of crazy, mostly you would want to be concerned with the mechanical condition. Have it checked out by a reputable volvo mechanic and get their opinion before buying.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2010 22:41
|
|
|
Revvik posted:Finally decided I wanted to drive again, so I fixed the clutch cable on my 242 turbo. Then mounted new (ish) tires all around - Yokohama ES100s. Balanced and aligned. Insured and registered the car and paid up my license. Spent an hour pulling the front air dam off the bumper and repainting the chipped, beaten gray a nice flat black which clashes kinda nicely with fresh steel bolts holding it in place. The 28 year old factory ones sucked, sheared three of the six off with a ratchet set and broke a ratchet adapter removing them. Is the 242 lowered at all? (There doesn't seem to be the standard monster truck gap on the front there.) You may want to look into a new panhard rod or rear torque rods if it is, which are relatively easy to replace and cheap enough, if you lower 240's they can easily get the rear axle mis-aligned... http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1&P_ID=163&CAT_ID=0&V_ID=572 http://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=802&P_ID=160&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1 (Unless that's not the type of shuddering and grinding you're describing)
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2010 00:48
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:Is the 242 lowered at all? (There doesn't seem to be the standard monster truck gap on the front there.) You may want to look into a new panhard rod or rear torque rods if it is, which are relatively easy to replace and cheap enough, if you lower 240's they can easily get the rear axle mis-aligned... That might have been the cause, but any lowering done was not professional or likely even intentional. That is the ride height I bought it at, the rear sits a touch lower. The suspension needs a large injection of time and money. Which was next on my list after exhaust, since the shoddy patch job I did last year gets in the way of doing any work to it. All of this is moot, with the rear axle's oil smelling burnt and being absolutely lousy with metal shavings. I'm (temporarily) hosed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2010 01:28
|
|
|
Revvik posted:That might have been the cause, but any lowering done was not professional or likely even intentional. That is the ride height I bought it at, the rear sits a touch lower. The suspension needs a large injection of time and money. I think the simplest answer is to pull a rear off another 240 for ~$50 in a pick-and-pull, axles, axle tubes, and diff altogether. Pull the bolts that hold the axle tube to the rear arms, pull one axle, and zip the whole thing out the side; no need to gently caress with the suspension. Try to find one that's not leaking at the diff seal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2010 05:12
|
|
|
Pearl magically runs again. Don't really know why. I did depress the gas pedal prior to turning the key. Prehaps that had something to do with it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2010 05:47
|
|
|
I bought a $1000 beat to hell 850 turbo. It only needs.. a front strut, a motor mount, driver's seat, new door panels, new exhaust, blinker lenses, paint, and an oil line to the turbo to be replaced. Should I just pick up my noose now or later?
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 00:12
|
|
|
Maybe it would be faster to just list what doesn't need replacing? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 01:26
|
|
|
 Click here for the full 720x540 image. Probably would be faster. It starts first crank, has ac, and runs fine. Just found a gas leak on the tank, front strut blown, needs a drivers seat, blinker lenses, an oil line has to be replaced, a top motor mount, and a few interior bits here and there. We won't talk about the body right now. It runs fine, but its really such a piece.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 02:19
|
|
|
Minkee posted:
If it's anything like mine, you might as well do all the motor mounts, all the bulbs, get some aftermarket front struts and rear shocks, and replace the ODO gear before you start using at as a daily. If you do pre-empt it's common failings, though, it should be pretty invincible. Just make sure it's keeping it's oil, and do your changes on time, and let the thing cool for a bit if you've been driving it hard because the turbo on those is cooled only by the oil flow (which is why it's important to use an OEM/Mann filter) and if you kill it while it's hot you'll eventually need a new Turbo
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 03:25
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:I think the simplest answer is to pull a rear off another 240 for ~$50 in a pick-and-pull, axles, axle tubes, and diff altogether. Pull the bolts that hold the axle tube to the rear arms, pull one axle, and zip the whole thing out the side; no need to gently caress with the suspension. Try to find one that's not leaking at the diff seal. Oh definitely. gently caress taking the diff apart / off and getting it sent in for a rebuild when parts cars and running models are available still for so cheap. And fortunately I can take my time, since work is within walking distance. Basically, once I work together the disposable income I get to learn about replacing rear axles. This car will yet make a mechanic of me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 07:28
|
|
|
Revvik posted:Oh definitely. gently caress taking the diff apart / off and getting it sent in for a rebuild when parts cars and running models are available still for so cheap. And fortunately I can take my time, since work is within walking distance. Fun fact: I took my blown diff apart and didn't learn for another two years why it would have been a bad idea for me to try slapping a new one's parts from a junkyard back in. You will need to find a way to support the rear suspension arms without touching the rear axle or the diff. This is sort of a pain in the rear end, but bricks or blocks of wood will work good. I wouldn't (didn't) use jackstands under the arms because they're unstable; I put stands at the rear jack points and left the front of the car on the ground for maximum working tilt. tl;dr: you'll need stands at the rear in addition to blocks under the rear arms unless you have a lift.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 07:53
|
|
|
I think the front end on my 850 is sagging. I assumed the springs were worn out but a friend told me it might also be my shocks. Whatcha think?
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 10:43
|
|
|
This is me, midway through swapping a 1995 Turbo motor into my s70 t5m that has some issues with pistons/rods
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 10:52
|
|
|
Minkee posted:Probably would be faster. It starts first crank, has ac, and runs fine. Just found a gas leak on the tank, front strut blown, needs a drivers seat, blinker lenses, an oil line has to be replaced, a top motor mount, and a few interior bits here and there. We won't talk about the body right now. That's an enormous list for a $1000 car. Good luck I guess! I treat mine with ridiculous care and drive like the old lady I bought it from, and it's still needed a fair amount of work, I can't imagine what one of these would look like after years of under-maintenance. deratomicdog posted:I think the front end on my 850 is sagging. I assumed the springs were worn out but a friend told me it might also be my shocks. Whatcha think? I assumed sagging is always springs, might be wrong. I've been deferring the rears on mine for a while, it's probably sagging a little bit, and all the shocks are completely shot, the fronts are creaking now too. I've been doing a lot of city driving which is accelerating the issue, also cracked my radiator. I'm trying to avoid the dreaded costing-more-then-payments-on-a-new-car zone. I'm about to hit the one year anniversary, put 20k on my 96 850 (now with >180k), spend 1.5k on repairs, including new AC compressor, pads/rotors, gas tank evap lines (failed inspection over this), and I still have a pile of minor deferred stuff waiting for justification, odometer gear, blown trunk pistons, leaking steering rack, blower motor starting to grind...
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 12:08
|
|
|
deratomicdog posted:I think the front end on my 850 is sagging. I assumed the springs were worn out but a friend told me it might also be my shocks. Whatcha think? I think your friend is wrong. Springs provide all the push; shocks just force the springs to be less flamboyant in their motion. IIRC, though, dead suspension bushings can also be responsible for sag.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 19:33
|
|
|
hosed motor mounts can also cause the front to be lower than it should if the engine shifts an inch or two forward. (Happened in my 240, it took me a week to figure out wtf the issue was because nothing else seemed really amiss despite the engine being a bit out of place, the car just felt a little front heavy on turns...) PS: springs on the front of 240/740/940 cars almost never wear out - I would kind of assume the 850 still hits the "Old Volvo" generation for the most part. They're made for trucks and waaaaay outperform the weight of these cars even over a million years.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 20:10
|
|
|
Volvo's hate me. 1st car I went to this week I guess the owner had the wrong time in mind because he was dragging a loving animal carcass out of the boot when I turned up. I took one look, he shrugged & I hosed off. 2nd car I was almost orgasming in delighted excitement, the car was loving perfect. It burst into flames when I pulled up back at the dudes house. I'll keep looking 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2010 21:05
|
|
|
NOTinuyasha posted:That's an enormous list for a $1000 car. Good luck I guess! I treat mine with ridiculous care and drive like the old lady I bought it from, and it's still needed a fair amount of work, I can't imagine what one of these would look like after years of under-maintenance. Its not that bad for the most part. Most of it is pretty simple and the car runs fine, shifts okay, and has an okay turbo. The other things are just a few hundred dollars and a few of my days off to take care of it. The only real pain will be resealing the gas tank. I have to most likely drop it and put sealer in it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2010 03:42
|
|
|
Isn't the gas tank seal a known issue, I'm pretty sure the recall for it is done...but a dealership may do it for free anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2010 17:31
|
|
|
Late 850 wagons: Rust in the front edges of the front wings - how bad a sign is this? I may have found a car that isn't on fire or biting me but there's a touch or rust at the front end.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2010 22:00
|
|
|
Agggggh... I think I may be posting in this thread regularly soon. Gonna hopefully look at a '92 740 Turbo wagon with 180k miles on it this week. Anything in particular i should look for? Guy says it holds oil pressure fine, no smoke, nada, only issue is the a/c isn't cold. Good deal for $1500 if it all checks out? Also, how much would a set of Hydras go for? Right now it has steelies with hubcaps and i want to either put on Hydras, or run straight up steelies with no hubcaps 
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 07:28
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Late 850 wagons: Rust in the front edges of the front wings - how bad a sign is this? I may have found a car that isn't on fire or biting me but there's a touch or rust at the front end. It seems very unusual for an 850 to rust in that area. I'd be looking for accident damage and/or dodgy repairs.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 07:35
|
|
|
I saw another 850 5-speed wagon in the grocery store parking lot today, but this one was a vanilla 850 with no GLT or AWD badging. How common was it for them to be 5-speeds in Canada and the US?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 08:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 20:02 |
|
|
T1g4h posted:Agggggh... I think I may be posting in this thread regularly soon. Gonna hopefully look at a '92 740 Turbo wagon with 180k miles on it this week. Anything in particular i should look for? Guy says it holds oil pressure fine, no smoke, nada, only issue is the a/c isn't cold. Good deal for $1500 if it all checks out? Great deal if it looks good in addition to checking out mechanically, otherwise that's... well, gently caress you, it's less than I paid for the same year same car last Christmas. And mine needed new tires.  Listen to the turbo while you drive, it shouldn't be loud or make any noise other than whoosh. See if there's a lot of oil inside the timing cover, you can pry it open a little at the top and use a flashlight. Make sure all the dash indicator lights come on after ignition (don't forget SRS, I did). Check inside the storage bunkers to the sides of the spare tire compartment and under the spare tire for rust/water. Also under the doors. See if the PO knows if the blower was ever replaced, the original blower in 740s was totally hosed for some reason (rain drainage I think) and they redesigned the housing. The guy replacing an old blower with a new-style one gets to implement this redesign with a hacksaw and a drill. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 09:12
|
|