|
CornHolio posted:I think that's just a ventilation hose for the ECU (which is in the box it connects to). There shouldn't be any liquid in that hose. Correct. It just attaches to the fan shroud which pulls hot air out of the ECU box.
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2010 19:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 03:15 |
|
|
My friend and I are gonna be pulling the engine from my 240 for the swap tomorrow. If anybody's in SoCal and knows a thing or two about this sort of thing, we're always open for a hand or two to wrench stuff and I'd compensate in beer and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2010 22:40
|
|
|
Jack_Handey posted:Sounds like it's time to throw some money at your brick! Mine dyno'd 156whp and 211tq with just a cheapass MBC and a 2.5" exhaust, would've been even better if it didn't hit fuel cut. Total investment: $150. I'll be talking to the guy that's buying it about modding the engine/exhaust, but he's not the performance type. I was going to do the exhaust (it's about to come apart right before the muffler), but never found a proper turbo cat-back system. I was pretty satisfied with the power levels, so it wasn't a big priority. If he ends up wanting to do some work on it I'll get back with ya'll. Otherwise, I'll be looking for a V70R once I get the Mustang painted and am done restoring the Galaxie. Probably late next year. I miss the convenience of my old 740 wagon and want the newer style of the late 90's V70. edit sbaldrick posted:I found my problem, looks like a small crack in this hose. Off to the junk yard That battery looks terribly out of place...
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2010 23:37
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:My friend and I are gonna be pulling the engine from my 240 for the swap tomorrow. If anybody's in SoCal and knows a thing or two about this sort of thing, we're always open for a hand or two to wrench stuff and I'd compensate in beer and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. How'd it go?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2010 15:28
|
|
|
So my 96 850 with 185k has had a slow power steering leak at least since buying it a year ago, I never refilled it once until this last week when the steering felt like it was rubbing, the fluid was way low so I filled it with stop leak fluid, a few days later it's gone again, refilled, and the next day it's gone. Should I try something else with stop leak or should I just give in and have a rebuilt rack installed?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2010 22:45
|
|
|
I picked up a 2003 XC70 last week. It's a big white beauty that somewhat resembles a panda bear. 83k miles, heated everything, very nice shape overall. The other day however I noticed that when I accelerated on a corner from a start(leaving a parking lot on a busy road for example) The tire opposite to the direction I'm turning breaks loose and spins like a madman. I also accelerated hard in the rain the other day and it broke the front tires loose, sort of felt like one tire spun and then the other, but only out front. I'm very worried that my shiny new car might have a serious issue with it's all wheel drive. I believe that it was in 2003 that they switched over to the Haldex system Any help, ideas, experience? I really hope it's something stupid and not a lemon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2010 23:54
|
|
|
I have a key question & I'm dreading the answer: My 99 V70 came with 1 key and fob. I can find a new fob for £40 and a new key cut with transponder for £15, Volvo want £240 (ha) to supply & program these items. Can I buy them & code them myself?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2010 20:13
|
|
|
82Daion posted:How'd it go? Being as I turned 21, I went to Pizza Port and got a medium Pizza Roma and three assorted types of brews with my friend Zach (ZVOLV on tbricks) and girlfriend (who just turned 21 as well) instead.  It will be this upcoming week though, for sure, haha.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2010 21:51
|
|
|
This may or may not be my first post in AI. Tbricks gets annoying/boring after a while so I thought I'd hit you guys up. I've only owned RWD Volvos in my life and I don't know when it will end. I don't have a whole lot of experience doing car work but I have experienced a 1994 940 B230FT (junkyard motor) swap into a 240. It started after the first crank! That 240 was actually my car.... It has a HOLSET HE350 bolted to it right now with other misc. mods. The car is stuck at the moment due to a completely immovable AW71. I daily drive a 1993 240 in Maroon. 100% stock. 100% slow. All I've done so far is a few maint style repairs (wobbly harmonic balancer, timing belt/waterpump, rear main seal, etc.) and an EFAN swap. Here's a pic of the car that now has the turbo motor in it:   Here's a pic of my daily driver:  Sorry for the lovely pictures. Oh and I might fly to Denver to pick this up:   It has a completely rebuilt bottom end with a "tight squish" piston setup and a Mitsu 18T at about 13 psi (swapped "late" B230FT). Interior is the magical Volvo black leather that I love so much. It's got an M46 too!
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 05:48
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:Interior is the magical Volvo black leather that I love so much. This, it's the first hurdle a Craigslist ad has to pass for me. All the other interiors just don't do it for me. Especially the grey leather in the 850s, those are like a slap in the face. Maybe it's because my first car had blue velour and no AC.  Your DD is very pretty from the outside.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 05:55
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Your DD is very pretty from the outside. Thanks! Everyone has been more impressed with the maroon car than the gold. The gold is in I'd say at least 20 percent better shape on the outside. Darker colors just look a lot better. It's funny that I like that old black leather so much. I have fond memories of sitting in my dad's 1979 264 (PRV V6, it was the shittiest motor setup ever) with water literally sizzling off of my legs due to Texas summer heat + swimming + black car with awesome black leather.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 06:00
|
|
|
I've always loved how the 240 saloons looked, they're just not practical enough for me. Anyhow: I serviced my 2.5tdi v70 yesterday. After the internet told me where the pollen filter was I have a suspicion it's never been changed:  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Many awkward minutes of scraping later:  Click here for the full 640x480 image. I think my car's eaten a sparrow I also swapped the bitumen for oil and the FRAM filter for a far superior MANN filter  Whilst poking around waiting for oil to drain I found the top motor mount appears to need a new bush - is this a simple job?  Click here for the full 640x480 image.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 06:20
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Whilst poking around waiting for oil to drain I found the top motor mount appears to need a new bush - is this a simple job? 10 minute job. I really suggest the replacement rubber mounts over the polyurethane, as they will vibrate the poo poo out of your car for the first 10,000 miles or more (or forever)
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 07:44
|
|
|
also the poly ones tend to snap the mount if you drive it hard.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 19:42
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:Thanks! Everyone has been more impressed with the maroon car than the gold. The gold is in I'd say at least 20 percent better shape on the outside. Darker colors just look a lot better. I used to have a 940T in gold...thing never looked like it was dirty ever. Amazing color to have on a car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 20:01
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:
Its a simple job, go to IPD and spend the $25 on it there. Comes with a lifetime warranty. The easiest thing I've done on my car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2010 20:36
|
|
|
I have a '92 740 Turbo wagon. It ran great (well, okay anyway) until a few days ago: when starting, it caught for just a second, died, and neither fuel pump will buzz when the fuel pump lines at fuse 11 are given battery power; this includes no pump buzz when the key is turned from Off to On. The speedometer now jumps to 50mph when the key is turned from Off to On. When testing with a 12v probe (bypassing the relay), both pumps worked a little (too quiet) for a moment, but have since not worked at all from the wires at fuse 11. It's dark and the mosquitos got pretty bad or I'd be under the car feeding the main pump direct battery current from a jumper cable at the pump end of the power wire. More on this test tomorrow. With fuse 1, fuse 11, or both fuses out, the speedometer still jumps at Key On. Giving the fuel pump power wires 12v power does not move the speedometer. Both power wires have continuity to ground, but they could be shorted to ground before the pumps. The Greenbook testing procedure says that with the key On and the fuel injection relay out, I should see battery voltage with a voltmeter across connectors 3 and 4 on the underside of the fuel injection relay's bed. I have 2.26v instead. However, fuse 1 has two wires coming off the ground side of the fuse, and only one runs to the fuel injection relay; the other runs to what the book lists as Control Module: EZK Distr. Ignition (at the top of the gas pedal, I think?), and when unplugged leaves me with the desired battery voltage across connectors 3 and 4 at the fuel injection relay bed. So that control module is sucking down about 10v at all times, key On or Off. This is bugging the poo poo out of me because both pumps have poo poo the bed at the same time, plus the speedo and the control module, and I hate coincidences. Do the power wires travel together at any point besides the big main harness trunk, someplace they could both be rubbing or something? If I shorted the fuel pump power lines, could I kill something in the control module without popping a fuse? Fuse 11 is between the pumps and everything else. I wonder if the speedometer jump is the power pulse that should go to the main pump at key On? HMMMM
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2010 02:36
|
|
|
Crosspost from that other thread about doing things to cars and crap Replaced the Volvo's wiper motor assembly with a used (but working!) one I found for $50 shipped. I had help putting it in, too!  Easy as hell on this car, took a half hour tops. The new wipers actually have quickness to them! Since we bought this car a year ago the wipers have been incredibly slow, due to the apparently slowly failing motor which finally gave out last weekend.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2010 03:23
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Would you believe my horn seized because the opening faced forward and it was low enough to get splash from the rainwater bouncing off mulch and stuff? But you wouldn't have that problem, would you, what with your Compressor Fairy and what not.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2010 04:13
|
|
|
deratomicdog posted:also the poly ones tend to snap the mount if you drive it hard. Hahhahaa, drive it hard. Do you know how much the Audi 2.5TDI weighs? Anyway, I found the bush in the UK for like £8, ordered. I'll fit it after it comes back from the timing belts being replaced. I wasn't brave enough to do it myself, 2 belts & tensioners? gently caress that. I'll have a go at pretty much everything though, like the front discs have a bit of a lip, I'll get those done soon, I need to look at the air-con, I finally admitted to myself it's not blowing cold at all, rest as below: Electric wing mirrors don't move Drivers check-strap needs replacing Needs a couple of factory rivets replacing here 'n' there Couple of bits of trim to be replaced Paintwork still looks like it went through a bush I could really do with finding a manual for this engine though, B5252T, There is no Haynes that covers it, Volvo or Audi. I think I need a volvo workshop manual 
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2010 20:18
|
|
|
I'm thinking about getting an S80 for my wife to drive, is there any reason I should avoid this car in general or any specific problem areas to look out for? I have never owned a Volvo but a friend of mine has a 240 wagon I have always loved and I really like the look of the S80s as well. We need something midsized as I have a IS300 that's a bit too small for our frequent 4 adult roadtrips. For her I am more concerned with safety than anything which made me consider Volvos, I also like that it is FWD so I can run all seasons and not have to equip another car with two sets of wheels/tires. My main question is which engine should I get? The fuel economy looks to be very similar on the turbo vs N/A and the car requires premium either way. I have owned turbocharged cars before, so I expect it to have all the same caveats as any other turbo charged cars, but is there anything else especially unpractical about the turbocharged ones? All things being equal, I'd rather have the TB than not, but if they are quite a bit more problematic I suppose the NA model would still be plenty of power for the car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2010 23:47
|
|
|
Well I finally got around to seeing what my cel was doing in the volvo and it threw these three codes: 2-2-1 - Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean at part load 2-2-3 - Signal missing to/from idle air control valve 3-1-1 Signal missing from speedometer (speedo is going out) Im sure this explains some of my running issues such as a rough idle and sometimes (a ton 6 months ago, nothing now) not wanting to accelerate at all from a stop and drat near stalling in the process. Im pretty damned sure my AMM is out, cleaning didnt help at all and its looking a bit toasty. However mine looks completely different than any Ive seen online. All the ones Ive found have a wide plug where mine has one thats rather small one  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. The top bit is the AMM, it easily popped out of the housing when trying to unplug the bastard, cant get a good pic but the matchhead looking deal inside of it is a burnt up gray color.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Anyone know where I could find an AMM like this? Ive searched all over and everything has 4+ prongs. Also is there any guides on cleaning the IAC (finding as well)?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 01:25
|
|
|
ExtremeODD posted:Anyone know where I could find an AMM like this? Ive searched all over and everything has 4+ prongs. Refresh my memory-what year and model is your car? It looks like it has the Rex/Regina fuel injection system rather than LH-Jetronic. Brickboard says that you need a MAP sensor if that's the case: quote:Regina Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor. The easiest way I've found to identify Regina is to look at your coil. If it's on the driver's side strut tower and looks kind of like this, it's most likely a Regina system. quote:Also is there any guides on cleaning the IAC (finding as well)? Here's a couple pictures of where it is on my car. Yours may be different in appearance, but it's probably in the same location.   I don't know if you can clean the IAC valve or not. tonedef131 posted:I'm thinking about getting an S80 for my wife to drive, is there any reason I should avoid this car in general or any specific problem areas to look out for? I have never owned a Volvo but a friend of mine has a 240 wagon I have always loved and I really like the look of the S80s as well. We need something midsized as I have a IS300 that's a bit too small for our frequent 4 adult roadtrips. As I understand it, the first-gen S80s are nice cars when they're running well, but tend to break transmissions often and are generally unreliable cars. There's a reason they go so cheap used. If you want a big, comfy Volvo, then I would look for a nice, later 960 or S90. They have their problems as well and are RWD, but are amazingly smooth and comfortable. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Aug 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 16:01
|
|
|
The S60s aren't shabby either...look for anything past '04 with a good maintenance record. Also FWD.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 17:22
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:I have a key question & I'm dreading the answer: Anyone have any relevant experience?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 17:42
|
|
|
I'll admit I have a thing for I6 engines, so the S80 is a lot more appealing than the 5 cylinder S60. However if the tranny is going to be failing I might take a look at them, how is the interior space on the S60s compared to the S80s? Is the transmission the only weakness of the S80? I've been looking around on the web and haven't found anything suggesting that the TB is more problematic than the NA model. I have ran into a few places reporting that the AC is a nightmare area, but is this S80 specific or just a Volvo complain in general?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 18:14
|
|
|
TheJeffers posted:Refresh my memory-what year and model is your car? It looks like it has the Rex/Regina fuel injection system rather than LH-Jetronic. Brickboard says that you need a MAP sensor if that's the case: Wow Im stupid, thought I put the model and year. Its a 1990 volvo 740 nonturbo 150k miles. The thing I think was the mass air flow meter is in the exact same spot as any other cars mass air meter. Its right after the filter, the housing is 3-4in long and same diameter as the intake pipe.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 18:22
|
|
|
ExtremeODD posted:Wow Im stupid, thought I put the model and year. Its a 1990 volvo 740 nonturbo 150k miles. The thing I think was the mass air flow meter is in the exact same spot as any other cars mass air meter. Its right after the filter, the housing is 3-4in long and same diameter as the intake pipe. Right, that's probably the MAP. The pictures I posted are of my IAC.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 18:41
|
|
|
TheJeffers posted:Right, that's probably the MAP. The pictures I posted are of my IAC. That's not a MAP sensor. That's the air temperature sensor for the Regina system. FCP Groton carries them if it's in need of replacement. Given the codes you're getting, it sounds like you should examine your O2 sensor as well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2010 19:11
|
|
|
82Daion posted:That's not a MAP sensor. That's the air temperature sensor for the Regina system. What is this supposed to look like? I mean the sensor inside of it, mine is an ashy gray color. I wouldnt doubt if my o2 sensor by the cat is gone, the exhaust was broken there for drat near a year. EDIT: Hell I was looking at the wrong chart, its the o2 sensor 2-2-1 Oxygen sensor not operating Oxygen sensor or intake air leak \/\/\/\/ I sprayed it off in the past with maf cleaner so Ill just ignore its existance for now. Are there any other O2 sensors that will work with volvos? Like from other makes/models cars, the one volvo at the pick'n'pull is stripped of any that it may have had. Also how many o2 sensors do volovs have? ExtremeODD fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Aug 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 01:06
|
|
|
I honestly have no idea what it's supposed to look like or what the diagnostic process for it would be, but if it's really dirty, it can't hurt to replace it. Rex/Regina cars are a complete mystery to me. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 01:21
|
|
|
82Daion posted:Rex/Regina cars are a complete mystery to me. Yeah, what's the logic for which makes/models/markets had Rex/Regina? TheJeffers posted:The electrical plug under the intake in this picture that's not plugged into anything: I have this on my '92 740 Turbo and wondered (since there's so many other PO butcher wiring jobs on this poor bitch) if it was an indication that the engine bay harness had been replaced with a similar one from another year or model with "vestigial wires". Seeing the same thing on another car means maybe it's stock vestigiation?  What would it be for in (I'm assuming) another market?----------------------------------------------- So, I fell in love at the junkyard today. Preliminary research suggests a 1971 145: Hello there.  It's got all the beefy muscle of the 245, with taller sides, lower windows, and a taller overall height.  But none of the complicated exterior that I don't like in the 200 series, and all soft slopes instead of hard curves, like a Renaissance nude.  And what a front end.  Here's what it looked like before the world died around it.  Oh, and ADMIT IT, the seats look a lot nicer than anything from Volvo's '80s and '90s; they were black leather stitched white or tan to make horizontal bands, reminding me of the ones in the current ('09 anyway?) v50. Here's an example; you'll have to imagine the contrast stitching.  Europe got a hearse version! (I know, I know, they think this is a van in the economic bloc formerly known as the Holy Roman Empire  ) Paging Boomerjinks to stay out. I know that some of you are probably all "hurr, these have been around forever" but hey, new-to-me. This car was in college when I was 5 years old, ok?  Stickers were clearly produced to superior quality standards in the dim, grim past. To summarize: 
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 03:00
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Yeah, what's the logic for which makes/models/markets had Rex/Regina? I believe that most NA 740s and 940s had it from 1990 to 1992, if Brickboard is to be trusted. quote:The electrical plug under the intake in this picture that's not plugged into anything: I have this on my '92 740 Turbo and wondered (since there's so many other PO butcher wiring jobs on this poor bitch) if it was an indication that the engine bay harness had been replaced with a similar one from another year or model with "vestigial wires". Seeing the same thing on another car means maybe it's stock vestigiation? I believe that it's a provision for a cold-start injector, but I don't think I've ever seen a turbo car that has one. Rex/Regina cars, on the other hand, do, so it may be there for that purpose.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 03:06
|
|
|
Dealers in the colder states would often either spec them (or change the wiring in? I don't know) on cars on an individual basis. My uncle had an early 80's turbo with a cold weather plug in Minnesota back in the day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 03:20
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:It's got all the beefy muscle of the 245, with taller sides, lower windows, and a taller overall height. But none of the complicated exterior that I don't like in the 200 series, and all soft slopes instead of hard curves, like a Renaissance nude. Hate to break it to you bro, but that's just optical illusion. From the firewall back it's identical to a 240. The only thing they changed were the wing windows, door handles, the taillights, and the trim. There were a few other small changes like how the rear window mounted, and maybe how far down the gutters ran, but other than that it's the same. I believe you can bolt the doors and tailgate from a 1993 240 on to that car, you'd just have to drill new holes for the later style door catches. I know I put early 80's doors on my 1970 doing that. And I put an '89 rear window in a 142 so I could have the factory third brake light. Fit perfect. But yeah, there's something about those classic guys that's worth saving. I've owned a couple over the years and if I had a bazillion dollars, you can bet I'd snatch up the first mint condition one that I saw. There are a ton of 140 nuts over on turbobricks and they'll argue about valve sizes and motor displacements as if it were scripture, I'd go there and just read if you want to know more. Have some 142 porn while I'm here. A 1970 140 with '73 front end (and 240 doors, 240 back window, 240 seats, 240 trunk lid, 240 wheels):  
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 04:39
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Hate to break it to you bro, but that's just optical illusion. From the firewall back it's identical to a 240. The only thing they changed were the wing windows, door handles, the taillights, and the trim. There were a few other small changes like how the rear window mounted, and maybe how far down the gutters ran, but other than that it's the same. I can accept 'optical illusion'. However small the changes, they were enough to make all the difference in the world. There were quite a few 240s nearby for comparison, and it's just... something. Might even have just been a lack of clearcoat highlighting at the hip. Imagine a pretty woman that you see frowning often in clothes you don't like. Now imagine her in lingerie with softly glowing skin and an interesting expression on her face that you've never seen before. She even has a mole on her breast (or similar hidden 'beauty mark'), the way the rear door window doesn't follow the roofline or meet the line of the trunk window, which does follow the roofline.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 05:08
|
|
|
Heh, you really are in love! Shop around for one in decent shape that's still on the road, they are easy to keep running. They're among the cars that made Volvo legendary for reliability. They made them from '67 through '74, although my favorite is the '71-'72.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 05:52
|
|
|
Ahh, young love. Lloyd's right though - it's the door handles mostly (and skinnier tires - look at the pic Lloyd put up with the 240 doors, and the GT wheels/tire size, and it looks much more like a 240) that make the 140's look a bit more spindly and old school, but it's definitely optical illusion. I'm always partial to the 140s also as a 73 or 74 was my dad's first Volvo when I was a youf... (after a '66 GTO and a '71 Opel GT - hooray for kids eh?) but I still prefer the 240 look just a bit - as long as you stay earlier than the '86 restyle. There's something about a grainy pic of a great Volvo from the past, taken with a proper film camera in ye olden days.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 08:23
|
|
|
TheJeffers posted:I believe that it's a provision for a cold-start injector, but I don't think I've ever seen a turbo car that has one. Rex/Regina cars, on the other hand, do, so it may be there for that purpose. It's also extant in NA LH2.4 240s, but I think it came hooked up from the factory-if you go look at the parts car, the injector is installed on the underside of the intake manifold. I love the look of the '73 140-I'd love to have a 145 from that model year.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 14:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 03:15 |
|
|
Not sure where to start, so I'll cut to the chase. I've been looking to trade in my current daily driver for a cheaper, older vehicle so I've got a smaller monthly payment. After some looking, I found a 2005 Volvo S40 2.4i. It's got 63k on the clock, with the auto (i trim is non-turbo FYI) and 2.4 i5 in dark blue. The dealer site it was listed on had a link to a free CarFax report that showed nothing unusual. It was originally an Illinois vehicle and found it's way over to North Dakota. Given the mileage and that they're asking for $7,900.00, I wondered what could possibly be wrong with it if the price was so low, given the decent car report. So I decided to go over and check it out today. It was actually in good shape inside and out. No missing quarter panels, knocked out glass or anything. Took it for a test drive and everything worked fine, car was comfortable and had pretty nice driving manners. The big red flag I noticed was a good, old fashioned CEL. In addition to that, when I stepped out of the car after the test drive, there was an obnoxious squealing noise coming from under the hood. Figuring it might be the AC somehow, I turned it off and the noise persisted. The saleslady (yes, lady) told me they took it as a trade in and they were selling it essentially as-is. She told me the service bay attempted to diagnose it but didn't have the equipment to work on it, so they weren't going to mess with it and, like she said, sell it as-is. From what I've read about it, this is actually one of the more reliable modern Volvos out there (though I'm more of a fan of the bricks) and the CEL could be related to some fuel delivery issues that had a recall on them. Maybe the squealing is a bad belt, tensioner or pulley, though I don't know for sure and there only places around here that can diagnose a Volvo is one of the little shops specializing in Euro cars. If this is a ticking time bomb, I'll run, not walk, away. The idea was if the car blew me away in the test drive, I'd think about it and try to know my current vehicle loan from $16k down to about $10k or so. But if this thing is going to be a driveway jockey right away, I should probably leave it alone. Is it worth it, AI? Francis Baconator fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Aug 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2010 00:38
|
|
