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ynotony posted:Yes the original e90 is so unfortunate looking... but the remarkable thing is I think the facelifted E90 looks solid. Add the M-Sport cosmetic package and it is near dare I say lust worthy. It is incredible what the effect of a few carefully targeted tweaks can have. I don't care for the creased hood that they added. I would prefer to own a sedan, but again, the E90 looks like butt. The E92 looks a lot better, but I couldn't think of a compelling argument for a young male living in the city buying an E92 over an E82, except maybe the 3-series interior is a little nicer (I give no fucks).
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Aug 19, 2010 16:48
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Hunh, shows what I know about the ZHP package. I guess it encourages me that BMWs of this era are getting cheaper. My friend is pretty risk averse about major repairs, so even though I guess I could find a great 330i for 15k or less, I'm not sure he'd bite.
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Aug 19, 2010 20:34
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Finally got my car off the jack stands, and am experiencing a weird problem. It is very hard to turn the steering wheel! What is this a symptom of? The car (1999 M3) has been sitting off the ground for around 2 months (I was away). It was always a little tougher to turn the wheel than my last E36 M3. The only part that I added was a UUC front sway bar that I had on my old car and shouldn't impact steering difficulty. The car has brand new Sachs struts in the front. Is it: 1.) Power steering problem (how can I diagnose this?) 2.) Steering rack (same question) 3.) Strut hat problem (I feel like I remember one of them being a little tighter than the other while rotating) 4.) Alignment needed 5.) Something I haven't thought of I just want to drive my car 
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Aug 20, 2010 17:56
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Pissingintowind posted:Finally got my car off the jack stands, and am experiencing a weird problem. Is it harder to turn the wheel if you aren't moving? My 1999 M3 had the power steering hose literally disintegrate about 4 months ago. Maybe yours is old and dying too. Take it to your local shop and have them take a look? (or are you trying to fix this yourself?)
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Aug 20, 2010 18:04
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Kenshin posted:Is it harder to turn the wheel if you aren't moving? My 1999 M3 had the power steering hose literally disintegrate about 4 months ago. Maybe yours is old and dying too. Take it to your local shop and have them take a look? (or are you trying to fix this yourself?) I'm trying to fix it myself if it isn't too much of a bitch. It isn't really harder to turn when it isn't moving, I'd say it's about the same. Also, it doesn't really get any easier to turn after driving for a while (to warm up the ATF in the power steering system). This makes me think that the problem is not power steering related?
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Aug 20, 2010 19:15
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So, I recently picked up a '94 325is as a beater/project. I got a great price because it looks like hell, but it seems pretty sound mechanically. I'll put up some pictures when I'm able. I've started reading through the thread, but am only somewhere around page 25, so a thousand pardons if this has already been addressed: I need to replace my front control arms and bushings. At what point does it make sense to move up to non-rubber bushings? The merchant sites I've been browsing seem to think one should only bother if they're going to be racing, but, while I don't plan on tracking the car, I do enjoy very direct-feeling steering (for reference, my other vehicles are a miata and a biek). Would poly/delrin be too punishing for a DD/roadtripper that also likes some spirited driving? Would they cause additional/disproportionate wear on some component that I'm overlooking? Also, is there a consensus on short-shifters? The throw on this one is seriously like rowing a canoe. The UUC looks pretty solid, are there other contenders worth looking into?
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Aug 22, 2010 20:06
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televiper posted:So, I recently picked up a '94 325is as a beater/project. I got a great price because it looks like hell, but it seems pretty sound mechanically. I'll put up some pictures when I'm able. I've started reading through the thread, but am only somewhere around page 25, so a thousand pardons if this has already been addressed: Poly bushings are not out of the question for a street car, if you like it you like it. Get a Z3 shifter and install that. Much cheaper than UUC's ripoff package. Go to your local dealer or pelicanparts and order all the bushings and whatnot.
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Aug 23, 2010 06:50
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Taymar posted:I finally found a replacement for my zhp: I'm looking to pick up a 2004 330i zhp, what did you think of your zhp? These are right in my price range and I'm looking to get more of an 'adult' car while keeping some sporty aspects of driving. Regnevelc fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Aug 23, 2010 |
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Aug 23, 2010 15:10
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Regnevelc posted:I'm looking to pick up a 2004 330i zhp, what did you think of your zhp? These are right in my price range and I'm looking to get more of an 'adult' car while keeping some sporty aspects of driving. I have a ZHP and I love it. The ride is a little rougher than what I was expecting, but it's not bad. Very comfortable car and it handles pretty well too. It's a little low on power compared to a G35 though, so if you want something a little quicker test drive a G35 and see how you like it as well. If you aren't familiar with the E46 definitely read up on them first. They are a bit more work to maintain than, say, a japanese car but if you can DIY it's nothing terrible.
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Aug 23, 2010 16:55
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ozziegt posted:I have a ZHP and I love it. The ride is a little rougher than what I was expecting, but it's not bad. Very comfortable car and it handles pretty well too. It's a little low on power compared to a G35 though, so if you want something a little quicker test drive a G35 and see how you like it as well. I test drove a G35 on Friday, while I love it and the power, the interior was a bit cramped and the backseat was nearly worthless. I'm looking at a G35 and a 330i ZHP and will purchase one of the two, just which one I can find first!
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Aug 23, 2010 17:20
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Wait, the G35 backseat was worse than the E46? I've sat in both and the G had a bit more room, unless you're talking two doors. I personally couldn't tolerate the G35's interior for the amount of money you spend on it.
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Aug 23, 2010 17:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Wait, the G35 backseat was worse than the E46? I've sat in both and the G had a bit more room, unless you're talking two doors. The Sedan G35 is one of the ugliest cars ever designed. However, the coupe version is very sexy. I won't buy a Sedan G35, so the wife says she likes the BMW a bit better due to it being a Sedan.
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Aug 23, 2010 17:45
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Oh yeah the two door is real small. Are you looking at the first-gen G35?
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Aug 23, 2010 18:15
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I'm coming up on time for an oil change and I realized that I'm well overdue for Inspection II ('02 325i, approaching 115k miles). I've read a few guides and while there's some parts of it which would be new to me it seems in general to be well within the capabilities of an average DIYer. Because of that, I'm thinking about buying this kit and tackling it myself. Any reasons I should consider taking it to a pro or not using that kit? Also, I think I might have hosed up my parking brake due to a stupid mistake while doing the brakes a few months back. I forgot to release the brake before attempting to remove the driver's side rear rotor and used quite a bit of force pulling on it before realizing what I had done. It seemed fine for a while, but now when I'm driving around at low speed I have an intermittent repetitive squeal from that wheel which goes away if I pull the brake lever up one notch and the brake no longer holds the car from rolling backwards. It'll hold fine against forwards motion, even on fairly steep driveways, but on flat land I can push the car backwards without a notable amount of extra effort. This is unaffected by adjusting the cables at the front or the gear in the back. Any ideas what I might have screwed up and how challenging of a fix it will be? I'm pretty sure the parking brake in these cars is drum-style and I know all of jack poo poo about drum brake systems. e: As I was going through things I also realized I hadn't had my subframe checked out under the settlement yet. The one year period to have it checked out runs out early next month, so if you haven't yet get your inspection scheduled. wolrah fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Aug 23, 2010 |
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Aug 23, 2010 18:20
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Oh yeah the two door is real small. Are you looking at the first-gen G35? Looking at an 05/06 G35 or an 04/05 335I/CI ZHP
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Aug 23, 2010 18:37
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I'm kind of considering a G35 as my next car (in a few years), let me know what you end up getting and how you like it. I'm very curious. Seems to me that if you can get past the sub-par interior materials (I've owned an Altima of that generation so I don't care about that) it's a fantastic car. VQ-series V6, RWD, 6-speed manual and super-reliable. And the earlier ones are creeping closer to $10k!
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Aug 23, 2010 18:45
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CornHolio posted:I'm kind of considering a G35 as my next car (in a few years), let me know what you end up getting and how you like it. I'm very curious. Seems to me that if you can get past the sub-par interior materials (I've owned an Altima of that generation so I don't care about that) it's a fantastic car. VQ-series V6, RWD, 6-speed manual and super-reliable. Honestly for me it came down to either a 2005+ G35 sedan or a 2004 ZHP. I couldn't decide, so I decided to get whichever one I find first for a good price. Ended up with the ZHP. Now, if you are going to compare the 2nd gen G35 / G37 to an E46, I don't really see any reason to go with the BMW except the BMW would be cheaper.
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Aug 23, 2010 19:18
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ozziegt posted:Now, if you are going to compare the 2nd gen G35 / G37 to an E46, I don't really see any reason to go with the BMW except the BMW would be cheaper. Don't the G3xs have engine and brake overheating issues on the track?
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Aug 23, 2010 19:24
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ozziegt posted:Honestly for me it came down to either a 2005+ G35 sedan or a 2004 ZHP. I couldn't decide, so I decided to get whichever one I find first for a good price. Ended up with the ZHP. That's the plan for myself also. The wife and I are moving to NYC in 3-5 years, so I want something nice to drive during that time as I'll sell it before the move.
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Aug 23, 2010 19:55
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SlapActionJackson posted:Don't the G3xs have engine and brake overheating issues on the track? Dunno. I think there were some issues with heat issues on the track but I don't know the details, and I think that might have only been an issue for earlier models. Not really planning on tracking my DD.
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Aug 23, 2010 19:57
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Ughhhh, what is wrong with this damned car...? I'm STILL experiencing the same rough idle/low power/lagging that's been plaguing me for the last month. I've made a few posts and got some good advice, but here's a refresher: '92 325i Auto, 154K About 2 months ago I started trying to swich out my O2 sensor after getting the advice here that a flat spot I was getting was an early sign of impending sensor failure. Long story short, I caused more trouble than I fixed by trying to get to it myself. Instead of just a flat spot in my revs, I now started getting the rough idle and power lag. I took it to a mechanic to have him swap it out. That did NOT solve the problem. I found out how to check the error code from someone in here and the result was a 1251, which is a bad #1 fuel injector. I decided to change out all of them with a reconditioned set, and after getting the WRONG (scammy seller) one the first time, I replaced all of them this past Thursday. At first the trouble was just as bad as ever, so I reset the ECU. When I started the car after that, it was rough, but as I drove it eventually smoothed out and went back to feeling pretty much like a new car. I figured everything was god but on my way home the CEL blinked a couple of times. After driving it a couple of days now I feel definite improvement over before I swapped the injectors, but I still get spots of rough idle and bogging down under acceleration. It seems to be completely random, though, and has nothing to do with whether or not my engine is warm. The new code I get is 1222, which is a "Lambda Control" error. I've read that this is a mix error, usually caused by a bad O2 sensor, which I obviously just replaced! It's not as bad as before, but it's still there and I don't want to just accept that my previously strong engine idles rough and groans and pops when I want to accelerate. What else am I missing? I'm starting to get the nervous feeling that I'm going to have to see a mechanic about this since I'm going on a road trip in Mid-September. What am I missing here...?
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Aug 23, 2010 20:07
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Argh, both zhp's have been in accidents.
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Aug 23, 2010 22:20
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Do you hate the looks of the 2nd gen G35? Is that out of your price range?
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Aug 23, 2010 22:24
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do you hate the looks of the 2nd gen G35? Is that out of your price range? It's right at our upper limit.
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Aug 23, 2010 22:28
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Pissingintowind posted:Finally got my car off the jack stands, and am experiencing a weird problem. For anyone that cares (and because I hate looking at problems without a follow-up when reading forums), I fixed this. It turned out to be simple. Beneath the brake fluid reservoir with the attached brake master cylinder is the steering shaft universal joint. It turns out that this joint gets stiff and dirty when you don't drive often. I hit it with a shitload of PB Blaster, and that was that! Smooth steering is back  .
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Aug 23, 2010 23:00
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Alright, I have a couple of questions with regards to my 1997 328i 5-speed with about 188k on the odo: 1. While driving on the highway (75mph, ~3000 RPM) my interior lights (odometer, OBC) dimmed considerably. This isn't the first time it has happened. I pulled over at the next rest area and checked my voltages, and I had 14V at the terminals in the engine compartment, so my alternator would appear to be fine. I verified that the lights were still dim inside. They suddenly went to their normal brightness about ten minutes later as I was exiting the interstate and slowing down. What gives? 2. I've noticed rust on the leading edge of my roof, hiding beneath my weatherstripping:  I live in the rust belt so this isn't a surprise and this isn't the only rust on my car. But I really don't like where it is - I want to keep the car for as long as I can, and I don't want my windshield to start leaking. Will that happen if I don't get this taken care of? How long do I have until it really gets bad? How much money are we talking? Can somebody that hasn't done any rust repair before in his life attempt to fix this?
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Aug 23, 2010 23:09
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I was helping my friend pick out a new car when I stumbled upon a '06 M3 on the lot. It was a trade in; 45k miles, 6MT, sun roof delete, black leather and crimson red paint. Basically perfect inside and only a few chips on the hood from rocks. I currently have a '10 135i that I own free and clear. I paid $36.5k (military discount, would have been ~42k if I bought it in the states) for it and the dealer was willing to give me $32k for it. The M3 is $27k + taxes. Think it is worth it to trade? The M3 has 2 previous owners and it is a CPO car good for another 2 years/55k miles. I'm seriously considering it, but it is hard to give up my 135, I love this car.
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Aug 24, 2010 02:48
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CornHolio posted:Alright, I have a couple of questions with regards to my 1997 328i 5-speed with about 188k on the odo: As for your electrical issues, it could be the rheostat in the headlight switch going bad or a loose ground. Pull the grounds under the instrument panel, hit 'em with a wire brush, reinstall. Also, make sure all your cluster plugs are tight. A faulty PCB in the cluster can cause dimming issues throughout the entire dash (at least, they do in my E30). Always, always, ALWAYS check your grounds and connectors FIRST when troubleshooting electrical problems. poo poo loves to rattle loose after ten-odd years on bumpy streets.
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Aug 24, 2010 06:49
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Regnevelc posted:I'm looking to pick up a 2004 330i zhp, what did you think of your zhp? These are right in my price range and I'm looking to get more of an 'adult' car while keeping some sporty aspects of driving. It was a fantastic car, but the best advice I could offer is to hold out for a really nice example that's been well taken care of. I bought mine Certified Preowned, (later found out it was an off-lease car) and in hindsight it was a mistake. I wish I'd held out for a private sale on a 'babied' car. Decent tires are a not-insignificant expense for it, and it goes through rears pretty fast. I replaced tons of preventative and common failure items, which cost a fair bit but everything was an easy DIY. It's a really nice car to work on.
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Aug 26, 2010 12:32
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Taymar posted:It was a fantastic car, but the best advice I could offer is to hold out for a really nice example that's been well taken care of. Sumitomo HTR Z3's are nice and not too expensive, assuming the ZHP uses 245 R17's
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Aug 26, 2010 16:20
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Taco Box posted:Sumitomo HTR Z3's are nice and not too expensive, assuming the ZHP uses 245 R17's 225/18 in the front and 255/18 in the rear I think. Looking at about $600-800 for a set.
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Aug 26, 2010 17:26
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Looks like I won't be joining you all on a regular basis. My uncle located me a 2006 Infiniti G35 with 49,000 miles on the clock. Nav, Sunroof, 19" wheel package, bose, otherwise loaded. I can get it for a shade under $19K (bluebook is 25K or so). The BMW 330i would have been sweet, but I guess it wasn't meant to be. Regnevelc fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 20:50
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Great tire clearance going on at Tire Rack. They have 245/40R17 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric tires for $73 each, with an $80 rebate when you buy 4! By the way, this is the largest size you can fit on the front of an E36 M3 without a spacer or fender rolling at stock ride height. That is $69.13 per tire for me, with shipping from Indiana to New Jersey. Are you kidding me? I bought a set. edit: Looks like only this size is that cheap, so buy quickly if you want it! Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 21:16
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Regnevelc posted:Looks like I won't be joining you all on a regular basis. My uncle located me a 2006 Infiniti G35 with 49,000 miles on the clock. Nav, Sunroof, 19" wheel package, bose, otherwise loaded. I can get it for a shade under $19K (bluebook is 25K or so). Enjoy your Datsun! I kid, I kid 
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Aug 26, 2010 21:44
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Taco Box posted:Sumitomo HTR Z3's are nice and not too expensive, assuming the ZHP uses 245 R17's I had some of these on my Z4 and they got greasy when auto crossing. I've got Hankook Evo V12s right now and they seem to be doing better, if they're available in your size. The price should be similar.
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Aug 28, 2010 13:36
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wolrah posted:Any reasons I should consider taking it to a pro or not using that kit? I did most of Inspection II on my 02 e46 M3 myself. However, Fuel Filter, Pulleys, Power Steering Flush, SMG Flush, and Transmission Flush I had an Indie do. I pointed out the difficulty of removing the Fuel Filter from the line safely, and when they damaged it on removal, the replacement of the line was on them. Ended up costing me 500, because my Power Steering line was leaking, necessitating replacement ($300), but overall, because I took on most of it myself, it was super straightforward. The Fuel Filter, brake bleed, and power steering flush are the only areas I would be concerned about DIYing if ye ain't too smooth with the hands. Otherwise, go at it. Plenty do.
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Aug 28, 2010 22:06
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Ok, I've succumbed to "new M5 owner syndrome" and I need a new set of tires. Well, at least a new set of rears, the fronts have a few miles left in 'em, but not too many. Any recommendations? I'm thinking Kumho ASXs or Pirelli P-zeros, since this is my daily driver and I would prefer all-seasons, though this car is laughable in anything more than a modest rain. Comedy option is Continental ExtremeContact DWS, since they have a 50k mile treadlife warranty (which I'm sure I'd make good use of, repeatedly). Requires rotating them though, so I'd have to find another set of rear wheels to go to a square setup (which I want to do anyway).
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Aug 28, 2010 22:33
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Why are the Continentals the comedy option? Those are supposed to be some awesome tires and those are going on my 330 when I need new tires.
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Aug 29, 2010 00:00
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ozziegt posted:Why are the Continentals the comedy option? Those are supposed to be some awesome tires and those are going on my 330 when I need new tires. M5. Treadlife warranty. This can only end in misery (for continental :P).
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Aug 29, 2010 01:49
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So I'm the proud half-owner of a 2002 325TiX, 5-speed. Yeah, a 5-speed, AWD, wagon. Yippee! Its silver, only got 71,000 miles on it, and is very very clean, aside from a few niggling issues. 1. The Passenger's side front door bottom is rusting, and I'm sure BMW won't cover it on warranty. Is this a common issue, and how should I go about fixing it? 2. There's a whistling coming from the engine (I think) at partial throttle, it goes away entirely if I give it more gas or less. I'm thinking a pinhole/crack in one of the intake lines. I checked if it was the AC, and nope. I don't think its the diff, because it happens at slow speeds too. I didn't hear it when I was stopped, and just revved it, but there wouldn't be any load, and the vacuum might be different. Any thoughts? 3. Plus, it had a P0117 code (Coolant temp below threshold). I cleared it, and it hasn't come back. What's that all about? Bad CTS (below the intake), or bad thermostat? 4. The clutch seems to engage very high on the pedal travel, plus its got nearly no resistance. Bad Flywheel, clutch, or what?
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Aug 29, 2010 02:06
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