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inferis posted:I live in Portland and I just took a class this morning at Modern Domestic. I have never touched a sewing machine before today and I was able to make this.  Bags/purses are so easy to make and it can get kind of addictive.
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Jan 21, 2011 15:58
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A couple of years ago a friend gave me her Brother XL-5130 that someone had given to her years earlier. I've been thinking about getting a nicer one. What do you guys think of the Singer 7258 Stylist Model? Also, I hear lots of people talk about how great really old, vintage machines are, but they scare me. They always look so dirty, and seem like they would be hard to work and as if something would break on me all the time and I wouldn't be able to find parts for it. Thoughts?
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Jan 21, 2011 19:14
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As someone who avoids buying new whenever possible, and who loves to tinker with and recondition crap I am pretty biased, but: The main difference between old machines and new is that all the guts on older machines are super beefy and made of iron or steel; new machines are mostly plastic and thus pretty fragile (my old workhorse doesn't even bat an eye at sewing through 4+ layers of leather or denim; try that on a newer model and you run the risk of the gears stripping). Old machines also cost a heck of a lot less (even if you take them in to get serviced, you're still out no more than a new machine), and most repair shops will have a good stock of replacement parts. There is a surprisingly large selection of aftermarket parts for sewing machines, since there are a lot of people who prefer the old to the new (just like with cars). Even my totally obscure '60s serger has replacement parts available online. The main weakness of older machines is the motor; sometimes they'll have worn down the brushes (a pretty easy and inexpensive fix), burned out, or are just weak due to the technological limitations of the era. And yeah, old machines can be dirty, but they're easy enough to take apart, clean, and re-oil. Doing that is super satisfying, too. Edit: they're also dead-simple to operate. Once you've used one, you've basically used them all. There are minor differences between brands, but generally they will all have the same capabilities and similar placement for knobs and crap. They don't have any of these new-fangled automatic threaders or crazy computerized embroidery stitches or whatever; just a few clearly-labeled knobs and switches and levers. They're pretty intuitive. Muffy_the_Diver fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jan 21, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2011 23:07
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Muffy_the_Diver posted:Stuff about old Sewing Machines Funny that this is the newest post I find when I come here to ask about my "new" old machine. I picked up a Singer 604e-11 machine this weekend for $25. It is missing a few minor parts but the mechanical bits work well. I've already repaired a broken plug on it with a bit of JB Weld. I'm wondering if I should just replace the remaining parts myself (it is missing a foot, slide plate, throat plate, and need s a new bottom cover, $20 or so total), or also take it to get a full overhaul? There is a guy nearby which will do it for $75. It looks like everything has been kept fairly well maintained, until it was put up for storage. I am thinking it would be worth it to have the dust and debris cleared out and everything checked. I figure that even after the $75 I'm doing better than a new machine of comparable quality. Should I just wait and get the parts and only take it in it something seems amiss? Here are some pictures. Made in 1963.  Click here for the full 1024x610 image.  Click here for the full 1024x475 image.  Click here for the full 1024x651 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Jan 24, 2011 |
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Jan 24, 2011 03:23
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CaptBubba posted:I figure that even after the $75 I'm doing better than a new machine of comparable quality. Not a difficult or well-done project, but I took some little boy shirts that he's outgrown and made pillows this weekend! 
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Jan 24, 2011 03:30
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CaptBubba posted:I'm wondering if I should just replace the remaining parts myself (it is missing a foot, slide plate, throat plate, and need s a new bottom cover, $20 or so total), or also take it to get a full overhaul? Your machine looks a lot like my mom's, which is a total workhorse and great little machine. Congrats  If you have the money, I'd say definitely take it in to get serviced (especially since it looks like your particular machine has been through the wringer). You might consider replacing what you know is missing/broken, since your source sounds like it is a heck of a lot cheaper than buying the parts through a repair shop (they mark things up quite a bit), and then taking it in to get serviced, since it's probably out of tune after so many years. I've been broke as hell since I bought my machines, so haven't taken them in for service. Though it wasn't really noticeable at first, my machines are definitely in need of a tune-up. The tensioners on both are really screwed up, so they like to either snap the thread or skip stitches, especially on fleece (which I have been working a lot with lately).  The frustration I've gone through has cost me a lot more than the $100-150 it would take me to get both my machines serviced, but at this point I really can't afford to take them in.So yeah, don't be like me
Muffy_the_Diver fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jan 28, 2011 |
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Jan 28, 2011 00:25
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Muffy_the_Diver posted:Your machine looks a lot like my mom's, which is a total workhorse and great little machine. Congrats I'll be like you for a little bit. Mainly I managed to find a shop that has no problem with selling or using used parts as long as they are not wrecked. I'm going to replace the missing parts myself, and give the machine a run through the paces. All the mechanical bits are in great shape. Whoever had this before me kept it oiled and in prime condition. I wiped off the outer surfaces and it looks much better. The most annoying bit is the parts were $20... and then the manual cost nearly that much too! I'm thinking about for my first project to make some simply shopping bags: http://wisdomofthemoon.blogspot.com/2008/01/cheap-easy-fabric-grocery-bags.html
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Jan 28, 2011 03:39
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nolen posted:After that, I take the 3D model into a program called PatternImage. PatternImage is sold by a company called Livesforce, who also owns EasyToy. It's expensive software, too ($900 a year or $3k forever, though you get both applications for these prices). This software lets me draw seams along the 3D model and then unwrap them into a 2D pattern. You can do almost the same with the free version of peakura http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/
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Jan 28, 2011 19:02
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HardCoil posted:You can do almost the same with the free version of peakura Oh totally. I mentioned Pepakura in the Plush Monstrosities thread I believe and someone else came in and mentioned that Pepakura is pretty strict about the number of polys/tris/verts/whatever. It apparently prefers really low-res models. Also, and correct me if I'm wrong, you can only draw your seams on the actual edges of the 3D model in Pepakura. PatternImage will let you place your seams anywhere and then do the unwrapping with whatever other magic it has going on behind the scenes. That doesn't mean it isn't worth a shot though! I'm sure it's a fantastic solution for anyone on a tight budget .
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Jan 28, 2011 20:18
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Would either of these make good sewing machines? There's not much information, but maybe some of you with older machines might have an idea of the quality. http://greenville.craigslist.org/art/2188278894.html http://greenville.craigslist.org/for/2187674922.html
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Jan 30, 2011 19:35
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With old machines, I would advise old, but not too old. A lot of them are going to eventually need parts and if you can't find something to either use for parts or a place to buy them, all you have is a conversation piece. If you had to choose between the two, I would say the first, although I'm not a fan of built-in machines, simply for the portability of a stand-alone.
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Jan 31, 2011 00:25
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Singers are generally pretty bulletproof, and machines are a lot nicer to use when they're sunk into a cabinet like that instead of on a tabletop, so good eye for that. It's hard to tell whether those are particularly good buys just by looking at them - it's definitely wise to try them out before you buy one. A lot of times the foot pedal won't work (replacements are $30-50 depending upon what configuration the plug is), or it will be missing a manual ($10-20 for a PDF replacement online) so keep those in mind. Another thing to pay attention to is what sorts of bobbin it uses; I didn't check that before buying my machine, and it turns out that if it doesn't use the generic metal bobbins you can get for cheap at JoAnn's, replacements/extras will either be more expensive, harder to find, or both. I would also suggest not buying the machine from someone who is clueless about them (like your first link), as they tend to over-estimate what the machine is worth, or fail to notice problems with it. Also, keep in mind what sort of stitch functions you want on the machine. The one in your second link most likely only does straight-stitch and that's it; more modern ones (probably starting in the mid '70s) will have zig-zag, buttonhole, and reverse-stitch, and some will even have decorative stitches like little leaves or rows of diamonds or whatever. The super-vintage ones may also not have a built-in bobbin winder (not sure on this, so check for it), which is a huge pain in the butt to do without. If you don't care about all the stitch-functions/winding, though, that second one is super super cute. Good luck!Edit: Eponine posted:...although I'm not a fan of built-in machines, simply for the portability of a stand-alone. Though if you're a student or moving around a lot, I can see where having to drag a cabinet around with you would suck. Muffy_the_Diver fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jan 31, 2011 |
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Jan 31, 2011 00:44
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nolen posted:Oh totally. I mentioned Pepakura in the Plush Monstrosities thread I believe and someone else came in and mentioned that Pepakura is pretty strict about the number of polys/tris/verts/whatever. It apparently prefers really low-res models. Exactly. You can print it low res/low poly and work with it from there. I mostly do backpacks and pouches, so it's fine for me. There are also some plug-ins for google sketchup that lets you unfold stuff, but I haven't played with them very much. It does look promising. Interesting about the seams, I hadn't thought of that. You can design with that in mind, but just being able to draw anywhere is pretty nifty!
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Jan 31, 2011 22:33
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I'm noticing that straight stitches that my machine makes are pretty lovely. It doesn't seem to matter how I adjust the tension. The fabric can slide along the threads easily, getting bunched or stretched in places. The stitching is also quite loose, with loose loops here and there. If I look at a commercial garment, the stitching is really tight and secure. I always back-stitch to begin a stitch. I think that maybe this is because I'm using cheap thread that is thin and slippery. What kind of thread should I look for? It seems that the fabric stores around here have lots of thread but its all the same thin lovely stuff. Commercial clothing seems to use a different kind of straight stitch. There is only one thread that loops back through itself on the wrong side of the fabric. There is no way that the fabric can slide around... Does a regular sewing machine have a stitch that emulates this? I don't seem to have any such stitch on my machine as far as I can tell.
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Feb 3, 2011 02:04
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very posted:I'm noticing that straight stitches that my machine makes are pretty lovely. It doesn't seem to matter how I adjust the tension. The fabric can slide along the threads easily, getting bunched or stretched in places. The stitching is also quite loose, with loose loops here and there. If I look at a commercial garment, the stitching is really tight and secure. quote:I think that maybe this is because I'm using cheap thread that is thin and slippery. What kind of thread should I look for? It seems that the fabric stores around here have lots of thread but its all the same thin lovely stuff. quote:Commercial clothing seems to use a different kind of straight stitch. There is only one thread that loops back through itself on the wrong side of the fabric. There is no way that the fabric can slide around...
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Feb 3, 2011 03:09
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very posted:Commercial clothing seems to use a different kind of straight stitch. There is only one thread that loops back through itself on the wrong side of the fabric. There is no way that the fabric can slide around... Does a regular sewing machine have a stitch that emulates this? I don't seem to have any such stitch on my machine as far as I can tell. It's called a Chainstitch, and actually uses two threads. If you've ever opened a sack of flour, pet food, or kitty litter by yanking on the string on top such that it unravels, that's the stitch you're looking at. It's not advised to use without the accompaniment of an overlock stitch because it is so easy to unravel. If you really want a machine that does that stitch, look for a four-thread serger.
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Feb 3, 2011 04:43
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Cross_ posted:Loose loops really sounds like a tension problem. Check your bobbin tension, then do some test runs with various top tension settings. If the fabric itself shifts then see if you can adjust the presser foot pressure. I remember reading a blog by a commercial seamstress who complained that non-industrial sewing machines put too little pressure on the garment. Ok, maybe my machine has a bobbin tension that I've never found, because if so then that sounds like what is wrong. Also yeah its a chainstitch that I'm thinking about. Not that I think I need that, because maybe I can solve my problem otherwise. I just want stitches that look and feel professional!
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Feb 3, 2011 04:58
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Have a look at this http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4302/understanding-thread-tension and see if it helps you out. It explains about tension, and explains how to adjust bobbin tension which I never knew about. You also might want to see if it's making stitches of even length. If the stitches aren't of even length I think that might be more where pressure foot tension/feed dog adjustment would come in
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Feb 3, 2011 08:17
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this, but I figure you folks might know. In fact, it may be a dumb question. I have a fake leather jacket that I'm looking to sew a patch onto the back of. Normally I use plain black cotton thread to sew patches onto jackets, but I know that's bad on real leather jackets because of the tanning chemicals they use. Is cotton thread okay for fake leather jackets? Like I said, might be a dumb question, but I wanted to make sure before I went to it
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Feb 3, 2011 21:05
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I got all the pieces in and fixed up the old Singer. It stitches absolutely perfectly, and the tensioners do a good job. The foot pedal lacks much fine control, meaning you have to be careful if you want anything between off and full speed, but I cannot tell if that is a problem with it or simply how this machine operates. Here's how it looks now that I've cleaned it up:  Click here for the full 1024x833 image. And here's the stitching:  Click here for the full 1024x729 image. This sample was after I was playing with the tension settings. I overshot a bit on the bobbin tension so you can see the slightly unbalanced stitch. The desk is an old computer desk I don't need anymore and was thinking about tossing out. I am probably going to try sinking the machine into the desk. If it doesn't work oh well nothing lost.
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Feb 4, 2011 00:23
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My 70s era Singer doesn't seem to have much of a fine control in the foot pedal. There is a bit of control but its a very fine line.
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Feb 4, 2011 10:36
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Hey, does anyone in here have any recommendations for patching very large holes in denim? You know, big ol' knee holes. I'm trying to keep these diesels going as long as I possibly can. I caught many of the holes early, patched them underneath with a large patch that has held the fabric together really well, but on two occasions I was just not up for a big sewing project when they appeared and I allowed them to grow pretty big. I have another pair, and I thought it would be real slick to patch them, but then they had the "wearing a pair of jeans under your jeans" look going on, which was kind of strange. I want to fix these and make them cool and funky again. I've even considered cutting new holes, and patching those to make all this wear look intensional. I don't know what to do.  OH RIGHT! Also, my sewing machine has been birds nesting. I have a nice older singer. I've read that's usually a problem with the bobbin tension right? Oh, and also, I am a man. So don't be suggestin I patch them with some lace or anything. 
onecircles fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 4, 2011 |
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Feb 4, 2011 23:17
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You're going to have to go with some other material under there. Canvas? Some kind of print? I can't honestly think of anything that would look good in that big a hole unless you really want to commit to a loud print. I've seen a guy do that before and it worked on him. Pick something you like and give it a try, you won't know until you do.
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Feb 5, 2011 00:19
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Use some denim with the inside facing out. It will be lighter and match the frayed edges.
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Feb 5, 2011 01:53
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very posted:Use some denim with the inside facing out. It will be lighter and match the frayed edges. Aha, clever. It may just work. I'll try it. Can't really see myself pulling off some gaudy prints, unless I went super emo, and did b&w stripes or something, but then none of my clothes would match the pants. What about that birds-nesting thing? Have any of you guys had that before?
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Feb 5, 2011 04:00
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QPZIL posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this, but I figure you folks might know. In fact, it may be a dumb question. I don't know about chemicals but using cotton thread on a synthetic fabric runs the risk of it rotting away. I had a dress made of Crimplene which needed all the seams re-sewing because the cotton thread just rotted away and started snapping. This was a vintage dress that was getting washed a lot though, so it might be different on your jacket. Maybe try some strong polyester thread instead?
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Feb 5, 2011 12:34
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onecircles posted:Aha, clever. It may just work. I'll try it. I'd never heard of birds-nesting before but by googling: sewing birds nest that seemed to be a good thing to look at. They had some other tension related suggestions but it sounded like you knew more about it than I did.
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Feb 5, 2011 23:08
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I finally paid off the Bernina 330 I had on layaway so I have a beautiful new machine, now I just need furniture in my apt so I'm not sewing on the floor with my knee on the pedal.
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Feb 6, 2011 05:17
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I was sick of seeing no accurate Bubble Bobble plushes (seriously, google one. They are all terrible) so I made my own. You can't tell from the photo but it's 2 feet tall and HUGE. edit: Featured on Sprite Stitch  http://www.spritestitch.com/?p=3283
nolen fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 01:21
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Now make the fruit pieces to go with it !
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Feb 7, 2011 23:22
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nolen posted:I was sick of seeing no accurate Bubble Bobble plushes (seriously, google one. They are all terrible) so I made my own. What kind of fabric is that or where do you get your fabric? It seems like I can never find the exact shades and colors I want in a similar enough fabric.
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Feb 8, 2011 02:02
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Comrade Quack posted:What kind of fabric is that or where do you get your fabric? It seems like I can never find the exact shades and colors I want in a similar enough fabric. Since moving to Austin, it's been slim pickings locally. They're both fleece: the green and white are leftover from when I lived in Phoenix and bought from a local place called SAS Fabrics and the pink is from a Joann's here in Austin. The yellow fins and white for the finger/toenails, and black for the eyes are all felt and I think I bought those all from SAS as well. I have TONS of leftover fabric from previous projects, but felt is pretty easy to find in many colors.
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Feb 8, 2011 04:11
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Are you planning on selling this or would you be willing to share your pattern? My son's due date is in a month so I need to start stocking up on video game-related plushies 
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Feb 8, 2011 23:03
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Cross_ posted:Are you planning on selling this or would you be willing to share your pattern? A friend of mine back in Phoenix is throwing his 3rd annual Bubble Bobble rave (not even kidding) in March so I figured I would throw it up for raffle there. I might even make a giant Bob to go with it, but we'll see that goes. I could make another one down the line though if the demand is great enough. Someday I'll start an proper etsy account.
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Feb 8, 2011 23:15
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So as part of my New Year's Resolution to "Try New poo poo!" I've decided to take up sewing. I like designing crap, I can think in three dimensions well, and I am freakin' tiny and straight-bodied which makes me want to tailor half the poo poo I own to fit me properly. On that note, I know the guide in the OP on "your first sewing machine" says not to pay for your first if possible, but while perusing Craigslist I found a guy in my dinky town needing to make room by getting rid of a Singer FashionMate 237M-A and I'm not finding a whole lot of info other than that it's a late 1960's machine with metal gearing, and the few actual reviews I can find are that it's a great, albeit basic machine. Can anyone weigh in here?
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Feb 17, 2011 04:00
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I finally got around to tailoring an old shirt for practice, and surprisingly the result is good enough to wear. The shirt was way too big, so I had to remove the sleeves and reshape the armscyes. I just straight stitched the seams, top stitched them neatly, and then put a binding stitch inside. I still have some issues figuring out tension, and I see now how the wrong tension can really screw up a top stitch. This has got me pretty excited about putting together an entire shirt.
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Feb 17, 2011 05:13
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 Hey everyone - I have a time-sensitive question! I need to alter the neckline for a dress I'm wearing tomorrow night (make it a deeper neckline in front). My question is - is it easier/faster to trace and cut out a facing for the new neckline, or using bias tape along the neckline? I've never worked with bias tape but it seems easier? Please let me know! Also - bias tape is sold in stores, right?
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Feb 17, 2011 17:35
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The Orange Mage posted:So as part of my New Year's Resolution to "Try New poo poo!" I've decided to take up sewing. I like designing crap, I can think in three dimensions well, and I am freakin' tiny and straight-bodied which makes me want to tailor half the poo poo I own to fit me properly. It's hard to say for sure because you didn't specify if he was giving it away or selling it (or a price if he is). So I think it would depend on what you think. You might want to look at Goodwill or another local thrift store to see if they have any machines in to get an idea of what a similar machine might go for. If he is selling you the machine you should also think about any potential other costs you might need to figure into the budget. You might want to look to see if you can find a manual on line, expect to buy new needles and bobbins, etc...
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Feb 18, 2011 02:15
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amishsexpot posted:
I've never done this kind of thing before so I'm of no help to you. They sell bias tape in stores but you may not be able to find some that matches the garment in color or texture, or anything else important when washing.
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Feb 18, 2011 02:17
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I'm thinking about getting into quilting. I understand a lot of design/garment-y stuff because I knit, but I haven't sewn since home ec, except to fix hems and buttons and tiny, tiny stuff like that. How realistic is it for me to make a full-size quilt -- what's the learning curve going to be like? Is there a quilting version of Ravelry? What percentage of quilters aren't smug women who go by MommyofKaylee2007 and spend more time talking about what their DH said to their DIL? I mean, uh, are there any good resources I should check out as a beginner?
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Feb 18, 2011 02:30
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i like nice words