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Quick Question: Any of you installed a GM Auto trans into a 240? I have a built 700R4 that I was going to install into my project with my buddy but he has since moved and I don't have the ability to do it all on my own. The project is a 1993 240 with a HOLSET HE351, stupid huge injectors, an RSI stage 2 cam, which eats transmissions for breakfast.  Do I find a local performance shop and see what they would charge for a fit up, custom and/or modified crossmember, and driveshaft? I'd be okay up to $1,000, but more than that and it would break my budget. Cut my losses and try and offload the recently rebuilt trans? The car has a "modded" (read, bolts in my accumulators and a new filter) AW71 in it now that works fine at the moment, but I'm not super confident as the car has already eaten 2 AWs in the few months of being alive. I have the bolt-up plate for the bellhousing, a plate to use a stock GM tq converter on my Volvo flexplate, and a new 10" 2500 stall custom tq converter sitting and waiting as well.
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Jan 9, 2012 16:02
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By all means, inquire around; all that costs you is some phone minutes. Wait to decide until you know what your costs might be.
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Jan 9, 2012 16:16
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Splizwarf posted:By all means, inquire around; all that costs you is some phone minutes. Wait to decide until you know what your costs might be. That was the plan! Now that the AW is working, I'm kindof tempted to hold off on 700R4 install. Any problems with storing an auto trans and things like rusting or anything of the sort? Interested to see if anybody here has done an install of one of these beasts.
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Jan 9, 2012 16:23
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There's bound to be more advice, but all I can think of offhand is if the pan hasn't been off it make sure it stay upright and level until you can drop the pan. Gravity keeps all the gunk and shavings from a lifetime of use on the bottom of the pan; rolling your car can ruin the trans. I guess the other thing I would do is make sure anything that would not normally be exposed should be coated in a little ATF so it doesn't rust up.
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Jan 9, 2012 17:07
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All you need to worry about keeping covered/plugged will be the ports for the cooler lines, the tailshaft housing where the driveshaft yoke slides in, and the front end where the torque converter slides in.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:41
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e: figured it out
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 01:33
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I've been keeping a running total of the jobs I need to do on my v70, then I went on Autotrader & found a better example of the same year/engine/colour for less than the parts I need to buy. gently caress my life. When the MOT's up I'm driving it into a scrapyard, bonus points if I destroy part of the yard doing so.
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Jan 12, 2012 21:22
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It's not better, it has unknown problems. Both cars have lovely problems, but at least with yours, you know what needs fixing and how much it will cost; never underestimate that. I used to stress about that same comparison but then I remembered how  finding each PO problem is, especially if it was something I missed before the sale and shouldn't've. It's different when the issue has developed under your leadership, you own that problem and it's up to you if you want to fix it or not. "I broke this" as opposed to "man I got hosed".
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Jan 12, 2012 21:30
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Driving home from work yesterday, a dude passed me in a C30, and now I'm obsessed. It's one of the coolest looking cars I've seen in years. What kind of man gets a chub for a Volvo ? This guy.
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Jan 15, 2012 03:46
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CopRock posted:Driving home from work yesterday, a dude passed me in a C30, and now I'm obsessed. It's one of the coolest looking cars I've seen in years. What kind of man gets a chub for a Volvo ? This guy too. If I didn't already have an 850, I'd have a c30.
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Jan 15, 2012 07:29
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Wife and I both pop wood when one blows past. There's been some suggestion that 2013 may be the last US model year for them so if you like your cars brand-new...
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Jan 15, 2012 15:51
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Use the jack that came with the car and the jackpoints are behind the front tires or use a hydraulic jack around this area (there's a bar to hook up the stock scissor jack). Put your stands under the bulbous looking things attached to your a-arms. That's what I use. Could someone point out these bulbous things in a photo? I stuck my head under there (no it wasn't under on the jack) and couldn't tell what XYLOPAGUS was referring to.
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Jan 15, 2012 17:29
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Cross-posting from the AI Marketplace thread: Selling the '92 740, a blue turbo wagon. Now that my wife's V40 is officially back on the road, it's time to drop the third  Craigslist: http://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/cto/2801026154.html Photos: http://imgur.com/a/wjwbo#13 The car is in the Fredericksburg, Virginia area (about an hour south of DC).
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Jan 15, 2012 18:55
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Splizwarf posted:It's not better, it has unknown problems. Both cars have lovely problems, but at least with yours, you know what needs fixing and how much it will cost; never underestimate that. Stop being so rational drat you   Am I right in thinking this top mount here is composed of 2 bushes, 1 above & 1 below the shock tower? Am I also right in thinking the gap seen here indicates the lower has collapsed? What is it called so I can find a price for the damned thing? edit: for a 99 V70 TDI My current list of poo poo that needs replacing: Maintenance items: Front & rear brakes Shocks all round Glow plugs All fluids Broken poo poo: AC 2 wheels won't balance, the other 2 won't seal Couple of speakers Couple of courtesy lights Tailgate sounds like it's full of rust, also rusting at the top Tailgate struts Front door cards are coming to pieces Top engine mount When I write it all down it's mainly maintenance items, apart from AC & wheels.
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Jan 15, 2012 21:48
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Splizwarf posted:Wife and I both pop wood when one blows past. She's got some "extra parts", I take it?
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Jan 15, 2012 23:04
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Hers is metaphorical, and, to quote, "black and telescopic". v v
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Jan 16, 2012 05:13
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Cakefool posted:Stop being so rational drat you The upper spring seat is what you're looking for, but that gap doesn't mean it's failed. If you have clunking, or if you take that off and see cracked rubber, or if you can turn the strut (using a wrench on the top nut) and it doesn't spring back to where it started, then it's failed. But my C70 has that gap and the seats aren't anywhere near to failing yet. I think the large washer on top is more of a fail-safe than anything useful. If you do replace them, be sure to buy XC90 spring seats, or IPD heavy duty spring seats. Either one is a direct fit except they're more beefy and last 2-3 times longer.
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Jan 16, 2012 16:48
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I have clunking on that side, I'll try to turn the nut tonight - with the wheel off the ground?
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Jan 16, 2012 18:40
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I just sold some stuff to a guy named "thevolvoguy" on a Canadian gun forum and he has built a sleeper 240 that he races. Here's a couple of his comments about the car: quote:I drive a 1980 240 gt with a 302 cobra 5.0 300 hp it is amazing shoot me your email I will send you a pic. quote:Right on man this is my 13th 240,lol built it with my dad about 5 years ago it has a t5z world class racing tranny, aluminum drive shaft, 8.8 31 spline 373 gear rear end out of an explorer, the suspension is all solid bushing and adjustable, I slalom race the car, I raced against a Lamborghini guiardo last yeas on the track and I was only a second behind lol, it blows m3s,out of the water. I'll ask him if it is OK to post the pictures here. Pics:    
mikerock fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jan 16, 2012 |
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Jan 16, 2012 20:39
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Cakefool posted:I have clunking on that side, I'll try to turn the nut tonight - with the wheel off the ground? Not necessary, the upper strut shaft can spin in the strut. With the car on the ground you should be able to twist that nut 30 to 60 degrees and have it spring back to 0. If it goes farther than that or doesn't spring back, it's likely torn and needs replacing. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 00:51
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Okay ... 2002 Volvo V70 Cross Country, 110,000 miles, clean Carfax. If I buy this vehicle, am I in for a possible world of hurt, financially speaking? I know Volvos aren't going to be as reliable as Japanese cars, or as cheap to fix as American brands, but given the age, model and mileage, is this car ripe for thousands of dollars of repairs in the coming months? Most of my driving will be either short commutes (4 miles/6 km to work, with about 800'/250m vertical ascent/descent), or rural/expressway. FWIW, I live in Ithaca, New York, where the density of Volvos on the road is probably exceeded only by an Ikea parking lot in Stockholm.      There are several local mechanics that specialize in European cars, one Volvo-specific shop, and most general indie garages will work on Volvos. elmwood fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 18:44
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For what it's worth, that commute will be hard on any car: it's too short to burn the water out of the engine.
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Jan 17, 2012 18:58
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I hate to be the one to say this in the volvo thread but a commute like that cries out for a prius (used) or disposable $500/year cars. Anyway, the clunking isn't my shock mounts, they turn 30-odd degrees & spring back. The front lower control arms were replaced 10k ago. Any more suggestions? It sounds like its coming from the front of the car, clunking over bumps at low speed.
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Jan 17, 2012 19:09
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Time to inspect all bushings!
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Jan 17, 2012 20:03
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Might be the anti-roll bar links (I think thats what they are called). Those wear out pretty quickly and make a clunking sound. I know guys who replace them annually. Luckily they are cheap and easy to replace. Anyway, i just replaced my shock mounts and spring seats a couple of weeks ago and i still have that gap under the upper bushing so don't worry about that.
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Jan 17, 2012 20:59
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Cakefool: Yes, sway bar links are common for clunking. You could just unbolt each one and see if the clunk goes away, but don't drive it hard or fast like that. The bushings are glued to the bar, so just unbolting one won't tell you for sure if that's the clunk or not. elmwood: I'll say what I always say about the P2 volvos. They are a very refined car but they are very expensive to maintain, especially relative to all the older ones. If you can afford it they're worth it, but it hurts sometimes. I have an '01 V70 that I bought at 83k miles and I've spent probably $1000 a year maintaining it, which is a lot more than I'm used to. I didn't spend anything on it for most of 2011, but it's cost me $200 each month for the last 3 months. Map sensor died, $100 for diagnosis and $80 for the part, and that's wholesale. Battery died, paid $160 for a new battery, passenger door module died, paid $50 for a used one, interior fan motor started making noise, $200 for OEM, not about to trust aftermarket for a part that has set more than one volvo on fire. Find out on that car if they've changed the timing belt and PCV system yet, if not then it's not worth buying, as both are basically due at 100k (105 by the book). And if they haven't changed the transmission fluid at least once it's basically a $3000 time bomb.
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Jan 17, 2012 21:13
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Sheesh, $1000 a year? You're a lucky bastard.  I assume each car I own will cost me $3000 a year regardless of make, model, year, etc. If it's new, that will be a car payment; if it's old, that will be broken poo poo.
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Jan 17, 2012 21:44
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The short vertical link with a ball joint at each end? Righty-ho I'll unbolt the bottom end & tie-wrap them up for a test drive. Not tonight though, it's dark already & -3' Thanks peoples.
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Jan 17, 2012 22:36
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My 1996 n/a 177k 855 decided on Sunday night to not start. Later on that evening it started fine with one sputter after it got going. The next morning it started fine. Later that afternoon no start and it's sat ever since. It turns fine, it has fuel and spark and there are no codes thrown. Besides it's jealousy for my 245 what else could be the issue?
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Jan 17, 2012 22:57
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LloydDobler posted:Find out on that car if they've changed the timing belt and PCV system yet, if not then it's not worth buying, as both are basically due at 100k (105 by the book). And if they haven't changed the transmission fluid at least once it's basically a $3000 time bomb. Thanks for your response! Yeah, the tranny and timing belt are unknowns. The price is right, and I can afford the maintenance, but I don't know if I can deal with the frustration, or the possibility of a serious bank-breaking repair. The car is in Rochester, two hours away, so arranging to take it to a mechanic might be too much of a hassle.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:13
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Splizwarf posted:There's been some suggestion that 2013 may be the last US model year for them so if you like your cars brand-new... Whoa, seriously? They already killed the S40/V50- I thought the market was going towards premium compacts, not away from it. The C30 probably does need a complete redesign though, since it's mostly based on the 8 year old S40 platform.
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Jan 18, 2012 02:00
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Geely's contracting the company's offerings; keep in mind that the decision to kill some of the US cars was made at least a year and a half ago, when the world was all officially grimdark. As opposed to now when I think it's still probably grimdark, but with people trying to pretend it's not. Certainly, it's not officially grimdark anymore. Also, I feel bad saying it but the C30 is based on the Ford Focus hatchback. A lot of the parts actually say Ford on them, we dismantled one at work a few months ago. Don't care who made the fuel tank though, still want one. Sviatoslav posted:It turns fine, it has fuel and spark If these are good the car at least catches. Where do you have fuel, firing injectors with wet spark plugs or just pressure at the rail? What voltage is your spark? You can have spark without having enough spark, and there's often no visible difference until you measure it. The tool for it forces the spark to jump a specific measured gap, which you change with a screw for various voltages. My 740 died a couple months ago because the wiring at the fuel injector relay gave up the ghost, and killed power to my injectors. Fuel pumps ran and I had great pressure, though!
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Jan 18, 2012 03:12
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God i am so tired of this car right now. I had a ton of problems with it in the past couple of years but everything was fixable by throwing money and parts at it till it shuts up. But after replacing the leaky radiator and the hoses leading to it it still loving leaks. I can not get it to loving stop leaking. Everything is new goddamnit! Stop leaking! My problem is that i'm not sure if its just the hose thats leaking or if the radiator itself is leaking. Theres just some water in the general area of the hose and i can't really see where it's coming from. I'm gonna attack that thing with half a dozen hose clamps and see if i can get it sealed up. If the radiator itself is faulty i'm gonna try once to get it replaced by the guy who sold it to me and if that doesn't work im just gonna burn the car because gently caress that.
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Jan 18, 2012 06:50
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Theres a five door C30 in the works so they can't be canceling it 
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Jan 18, 2012 07:15
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Splizwarf posted:Sheesh, $1000 a year? You're a lucky bastard. Well, keep in mind that until this car I never took my cars to a shop, with this one I'm beholden. And my dad's a dealer so I get all my parts wholesale. My $1000 is easily $4000 for someone who pays retail for parts and pays someone $100 an hour to put them in. I did my own timing belt, water pump, pulleys, serp belt and tensioner and the parts still cost me almost $500. That same job on a redblock is like $60 for me.
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Jan 18, 2012 10:00
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Cakefool posted:Theres a five door C30 in the works so they can't be canceling it Oh, god, I'll take it. I would like to know more! But from what I've read the US C30 is doomed, due to pretty poor sales. v  v I'd love it if they kept it around until I can reasonably afford one.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 14:41
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I've been looking around at local XC70's and 90's. Now the 90's with the 2.5L I5 do not have the transmission problems, correct? I've been looking at 2005-07 with about 80 to 100k mileage. Is there anything huge that I need to watch out for or ask about with that many miles on them?
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Jan 18, 2012 19:09
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mikerock posted:He sure does keep an awful lot of oil in the back floorboard.
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Jan 18, 2012 19:53
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A co-worker has decided he and his wife are buying a 2001 S60 (US) with about 100k on it. What's the checklist?
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Jan 18, 2012 19:54
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Mexicola posted:I've been looking around at local XC70's and 90's. Now the 90's with the 2.5L I5 do not have the transmission problems, correct? I've been looking at 2005-07 with about 80 to 100k mileage. Is there anything huge that I need to watch out for or ask about with that many miles on them? Suspension rubber, timing belt and PCV. If they haven't been done, they need to be done soon. 7 years or 105k (or maybe 120k by 05) is the factory recommendation. The V8s are okay too, just avoid the straight 6 at all costs. Go cruise the XC90 forum at swedespeed.com and just peruse for other common problems. Just reading a few pages worth of threads will fill your head with info. Splizwarf posted:A co-worker has decided he and his wife are buying a 2001 S60 (US) with about 100k on it. What's the checklist? Put $3k in the bank for a transmission, or pay $3k more for an '03+ Seriously though, if anything at all feels wrong with the transmission walk away. It should have the stop neutral software deleted, and if it hasn't, walk away. Again, timing belt and PCV are necessary right around 100k so if they haven't been done, budget for it and beat the price down. On the test drive feel for clunks or sloppiness in the suspension. I'd also have them cruise the S60 forum at swedespeed, lots of chatter about common problems.
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Jan 18, 2012 20:35
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