|
Kommando posted:Toothbrush and Methylated spirits can gives some really good worn effects to assist in blending. be gentle or else you'll take the primer off too. Sorry didnt really think it was that big a close up. And im not really too certain how to fix the white balance on my phone but thanks anyways
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 13:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Use GIMP. Colors -> Auto -> White balance or something along those lines.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 14:02
|
|
|
Red Robin Hood posted:Where are you? Washington got hit pretty hard... Detroit. Its like 7 degrees right now, ugh. And yeah it was testors gloss and dullcote spraycans
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 14:39
|
|
|
Am I a professional modeler if I got paid while modeling? To be more specific I am at my part-time job and I brought a little baggie with some dentist tools, hobby knife, some green stuff and a bag of bits to convert. Hell, we got some nicon d50's here too, I can post up some pics!
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 18:04
|
|
will blow your mind.
|
Another little question of me guys, but when you're building up layers to a colour, do you guys use a darker paint shade as a base layer? for example my normal habit is to use a layer of codex grey to build up to fortress grey, and for this mini I went straight for fortress grey and I'm noticing it's just taking a stupid amount of layers. Is this normal or should I go back and rebuild up to it with other minis?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 20:35
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Another little question of me guys, but when you're building up layers to a colour, do you guys use a darker paint shade as a base layer? for example my normal habit is to use a layer of codex grey to build up to fortress grey, and for this mini I went straight for fortress grey and I'm noticing it's just taking a stupid amount of layers. Is this normal or should I go back and rebuild up to it with other minis? If my goal is a light color like fortress grey or bleached bone, then yeah, a basecoat of something like adeptus battlegrey or dheneb stone (assuming you're talking about black primer) helps immensely.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 20:43
|
|
|
Yeah sorry, I've been using black primer. Cheers Dominion, for my remaining two minis I'll basecoat them in a darker shade first, this one is taking forever though. Thanks. Edit: On this topic and priming, if I'm using pale colours, White primer seems to bet he better option, I chose black largely as it's more forgiving with mistakes that I'm likely to make, but as a question, would not doing a first primer layer in black, then a secondary in white work to my favour? Or alternatively, priming white and then heavily washing with with a black? Flipswitch fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Jan 20, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 20:53
|
|
|
Argh. What is it with miniature companies equipping clerics with swords. Every nice cleric mini I have found for my wife's character is using a sword instead of a mace / warhammer. Even the prepainted Pathfinder iconic cleric has a giant fuckoff sword. When did all these companies miss the memo that all proper clerics use maces? Anyway I found a small minis company that specialises in undead, specifically undead dwarves which is going to work out great in my 4e game. I wanted to share it here. http://splinteredlightminis.com/undead.html
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 21:02
|
|
|
Verdugo posted:Argh. What is it with miniature companies equipping clerics with swords. Every nice cleric mini I have found for my wife's character is using a sword instead of a mace / warhammer. Even the prepainted Pathfinder iconic cleric has a giant fuckoff sword. When did all these companies miss the memo that all proper clerics use maces? Reaper has a few: http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/cleric%20mace
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 21:05
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Yeah sorry, I've been using black primer. Cheers Dominion, for my remaining two minis I'll basecoat them in a darker shade first, this one is taking forever though. Thanks. Adeptus Battlegrey in particular is great, in that it's about the same shade as Codex Grey, maybe a touch darker, but covers black really well, usually in one coat.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 21:13
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Detroit. Its like 7 degrees right now, ugh. And yeah it was testors gloss and dullcote spraycans PV is the painting and modeling thread's resident badass 
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 21:22
|
|
|
Malal or anyone else versed in making bases for very heavy models I need help!!! I've recently come into possession(read mortgaged my house) of a Revenant and Phantom Titan. Neither of which come with bases. Whats the best way of a)Making a base strong enough for them and b)Pinning the drat things to them so they dont fall over?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 23:05
|
|
|
A friend of mine based his warhound titan with thin rebar put into the legs and attached into holes drilled into some kind of hardwood. Probably overkill, but he really hated how the model kept falling down.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 23:25
|
|
|
Yeah, at craft stores they sell wooden display bases of various sizes, usually with a somewhat fancy bevelled edge. That's probably what I would get if I had a titan.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2012 23:28
|
|
|
I agree, for something that size wood is best. your only other option is really thick sheet styrene, or layered styrene. As for pinning, rods work for sure but I really like custom footprints for big models like that. Get some two-part epoxy clay, mix it, and jam him down in it. you can do this with or without pins. (if you do it with pins though, you have to make the foot impression, remove the model to let it dray, then re-attatch.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 01:42
|
|
Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
|
All right bitches: Trip Report. So, Vallejo makes a crackle medium. Now, before several of us have tried to use crackle medium to various degrees of success/failure, but when I saw it at the store I said to myself "Huh, well Vallejo makes stuff specifically for models! Surely this will work much better!" I'm here to tell you it does:  and comparison for size:  A bit of sprue, primed gray and then painted with Hammerfall Khaki, a layer of gloss varnish, then Menoth White Highlight with a bit of blue to see how well fine details would hold up. The paint was then covered with a layer of crackle medium (too thickly, but it's a learning process), and a little time later some nice, fine cracks appeared all over. Now, the trick to bringing the cracks out to visible detail, I took a bit of black oil paint, smeared it on with a paper towel, then proceeded to wipe most of it off, leaving it in the cracks themselves. As you can see by the chip of paint missing, you have to be careful with this last step or risk flaking it off. Why oil paint, you might ask: as the medium is water-soluble, even when dry, you run the risk of destroying all the teeny, tiny cracks on the model. I did think about spray-sealing the paint first, but I was worried that doing so would fill in the cracks, thus making the wash not seep into them (which defeats the purpose). With a little practice, the effect should look better--but, for a first attempt, I'd say this is pretty damned successful.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 01:48
|
|
|
drat, Sushi, you knocked it out. I have some of the stuff but got frustrated with it for not cracking enough. I'll have to give it another go. I wanted to have all my Cryx Jacks have cracked out plating of bone with green underneath like it was bursting out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 01:56
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:drat, Sushi, you knocked it out. I have some of the stuff but got frustrated with it for not cracking enough. I'll have to give it another go. I wanted to have all my Cryx Jacks have cracked out plating of bone with green underneath like it was bursting out. From what I can gather, the oil paint can be any color. So, you'd need a bright green to get the effect you were after I'd suppose. EDIT: it works a lot better (more cracks) if the surface is smooth, hence why I put the layer of gloss varnish down between the layers of paint. Smoother = more cracks. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Jan 21, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 01:59
|
|
|
I have decided that I am going to attempt something like this: Valkyrie Helicopter. Time to completely gently caress this 70 dollar bad-boy up. Now I need to find a place nearby that sells plasticard...
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 02:07
|
|
|
Ork IG armies are the best Ork/IG armies. The Krieg one being my all-time favourite!
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 02:15
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:From what I can gather, the oil paint can be any color. So, you'd need a bright green to get the effect you were after I'd suppose. I think the reason it sucked bad when I did it was because I used my airbrush to spray on the second layer of paint after applying the crack medium. I'll try using a plain ol' brush this time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 02:30
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Ork IG armies are the best Ork/IG armies. The Krieg one being my all-time favourite! The best thing is that he calls them the "Armored Krumpany".
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 03:18
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:I think the reason it sucked bad when I did it was because I used my airbrush to spray on the second layer of paint after applying the crack medium. I'll try using a plain ol' brush this time. I applied the crackle medium after the second layer, the one I wanted to crackle, actually. I know the instructions on the Vallejo website says it goes between two layers, but that didn't crackle a whole lot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 03:31
|
|
|
I want to get Vallejo primer for airbrushing and I've heard of their primer-colored "Primer" paint. Is the 200ml one definitely a primer and not just a paint?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 03:49
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:I want to get Vallejo primer for airbrushing and I've heard of their primer-colored "Primer" paint. Is the 200ml one definitely a primer and not just a paint? It's what I use and it seems to work fantastically, but then I haven't really tried any paint on primer beyond it. I used to use Krylon's spray white primer, and I definitely prefer the Vallejo White primer in the 200 mL bottles. Oh, and I don't do air-brushing if that makes a difference in the quality of the product.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 03:56
|
|
|
Refind Chaos posted:It's what I use and it seems to work fantastically, but then I haven't really tried any paint on primer beyond it. I used to use Krylon's spray white primer, and I definitely prefer the Vallejo White primer in the 200 mL bottles. Oh, and I don't do air-brushing if that makes a difference in the quality of the product.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 04:43
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Do you airbrush that primer or do you paint it on? The very thought of priming 200+ minis by hand makes me shudder. Yeah, I corrected that post after the fact. I paint it on, and I don't know what effect diluting it for airbrushing would have. I've never done more than 20 minis at once. Doesn't Vallejo have a line devoted specifically to airbrushing though...come to think of it I think their airbrushing line's "primer" is supposedly just their basic pigment color, as I seem to recall reading.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 04:55
|
|
|
So I've got a gatorman army nearly finished. They're airbrushed so all I have to do is pick out details and throw on some washes here and there. Really wouldn't take long to finish them. It'd be my first finished army of any kind. And yet I haven't touched them in two weeks. Anyone have some encouraging words? (Insults accepted).
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 05:26
|
|
|
Paint, or the following will definitely happen: First, your boss will fire you 3 hours into your shift, just before lunch. You'll walk outside, and find your tires slashes so badly as to be shredded. You'll call AAA, but your boss will have your vehicle impounded for trespassing before they arrive (they will still charge you for their troubles, however). You'll take the bus home, and a homeless crazy man will ask for change. Regardless of how you answer, when you get off the bus he will follow you and shank you in a dark alley--right in the stomach. And as you bleed on the ground, hobbling to any kind of help because your cell-phone will have zero bars, I will show up from behind a blind turn and show you a video of me, paying off your boss, AAA, and the hobo; in my hand will be a cell scrambler, and in the other, a paintbrush. I will smile with wicked, hideously crazed eyes, and ever so gently, place the paintbrush and your gatormen on the ground before you. Or you can paint them now, and avoid all this. Your call. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 05:37
|
|
|
Sushi, brilliance. Alright, I'm doing this. Progress shall be posted as I go.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 05:52
|
|
|
Do it because having a fully painted+based army is the most rewarding thing you can do in this hobby.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 05:54
|
|
|
Bavius posted:So I've got a gatorman army nearly finished. They're airbrushed so all I have to do is pick out details and throw on some washes here and there. Really wouldn't take long to finish them. It'd be my first finished army of any kind. And yet I haven't touched them in two weeks. Anyone have some encouraging words? (Insults accepted). There is someone at your local gaming store who has bought an identical mini, and says that his is going to look better than yours.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 06:03
|
|
|
Ok so cross posting from the oath thread because I haven't painted in ages and it was really nice to get back into it and start up again. Already have a DP, Defiler, Dread and a bunch of Daemons to match this color scheme, so should fit into the army well.   Can't wait to get stuck into some more next month.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 06:05
|
|
|
Refind Chaos posted:Doesn't Vallejo have a line devoted specifically to airbrushing though...come to think of it I think their airbrushing line's "primer" is supposedly just their basic pigment color, as I seem to recall reading.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 07:10
|
|
|
Bavius posted:Anyone have some encouraging words? (Insults accepted). Paint or I shall come to your house and make a mess of your pots and pans.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 07:35
|
|
|
Verdugo posted:Anyway I found a small minis company that specialises in undead, specifically undead dwarves which is going to work out great in my 4e game. I wanted to share it here. http://splinteredlightminis.com/undead.html Before you get too excited about these dudes, you should note that they're 15mm models.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 07:37
|
|
|
Alright, my camera isn't handy but I've managed to paint all manner of bone and ropes and such. Got a few washes done. I'll post tomorrow with some finished photos as I crank em out. Thanks for the motivation.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 08:16
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:All right bitches: Trip Report. Awesome, need to try my medium again over gloss varnish/paint I guess and see if it helps. I really want this stuff to work.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 09:41
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:Paint, or the following will definitely happen:  Jesus! You should write a book or something that was really fun 
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 09:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Pierzak posted:What's what I'm asking about. Is the Vallejo White Primer sold in 200ml bottles really a primer, or just a pigment? Ok here's the thing as far as I can figure it. Vallejo makes primers that are actually primers, including the 200ml size. That's what I use. I have heard that they also, confusingly, have a Model Air colour called 'Primer Grey' or something (their website shows a 'Base Grey' in that line) which is the same shade as their grey primer but is not a primer. But they do make a grey primer, also white and black. The stuff you get in the 200ml bottle is it. I know poo poo about poo poo when it comes to which paints are good compared to others but it seems to work fine for me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2012 14:55
|
|
